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My 1.8T would throw a code for the o2 sensors if I ever went with 87.
Literally Lewis Hamilton fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Apr 6, 2012 |
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Apr 6, 2012 02:35
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I'm thinking about the Audi A1 for my next car. As a disabled driver I kind of need light power steering (my current car is a Citroen C3, which has near enough the lightest steering out there), so I wondered if someone could give me an opinion on this? It's tough to look for as most review sites see light steering as a negative point. Edit: I suppose there aren't many small car drivers in Automotive Insanity 
paint dry fucked around with this message at 11:05 on Apr 7, 2012 |
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Apr 7, 2012 10:55
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So I finally received my VAG-COM cable and did some looking around in the ECU with VCDS to see if I could find the source of my Limp mode problems. The two codes I found were P0420 which was expected from earlier but I did see a code that my regular ECU scanner didn't see. The code is P2182 (Performance Malfunction in Cooling System). This code did not trigger a CEL and I have had my timing belt and water pump service done only 15K miles ago so I went ahead and cleared the engine codes to see if it would clear up the limp mode. This didn't work and I was back at square one. I remembered that I had my stock N75 valve and swapped that out with the "J" version I had installed. Believe it or not this has cleared up my problem. I assume the old valve was going out causing the actual boost to exceed requested boost and constantly throwing the car in limp mode. Now I just need to keep monitoring to make sure the cooling system error doesn't come back. It is fun to get to use VCDS now I need to do some data-logging to see what I can learn from this thing.
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Apr 8, 2012 06:29
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mrtrunks84 posted:The code is P2182 (Performance Malfunction in Cooling System). This code did not trigger a CEL and I have had my timing belt and water pump service done only 15K miles ago Go drive the piss out of it until it's completely up to temperature and heat soaked. Pull over, turn on the AC. If both fans aren't running, fix as required. I typically find one of them is shot or the wiring has gone bad when I see this code without an overheat or other related DTCs.
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Apr 8, 2012 16:57
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I just bought a VW 2004 Jetta GL 2.0. I took it to a mechanic to get it checked out and they said it looked in good condition. Well I have driven it not even 50 miles and my check engine light is lit up. Is it a false signal or do I need to take it back to a mechanic and get it checked out again. I have heard it some cars it just pops up sometimes...but that seems weird to me. Any VW enthusiasts have the same issues with this car? Or just general advice? Thanks
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Apr 8, 2012 18:20
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tagelthebagel posted:I just bought a VW 2004 Jetta GL 2.0. I took it to a mechanic to get it checked out and they said it looked in good condition. Well I have driven it not even 50 miles and my check engine light is lit up. Is it a false signal or do I need to take it back to a mechanic and get it checked out again. I have heard it some cars it just pops up sometimes...but that seems weird to me. Any VW enthusiasts have the same issues with this car? Or just general advice? If you can, get a cheap code reader (or a odb-2 to usb connecter and vcds-lite) and you'll be able to pull the code and see what is going on. Most part stores will help you pull codes too, if I remember right. In other news, I just got done changing valve covers and rear cam seals on my passat. Not that hard now that I know what I'm doing, and hopefully it fixes the leak I noticed on the ground. If it doesn't fix the leak, at the very least the old gaskets were poo poo, and it's already idling smoother, so I don't feel like it was a wasted effort. e.  This was fun. I am getting gloves to wear next time though.
Dr. Despair fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Apr 8, 2012 |
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Apr 8, 2012 18:30
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tagelthebagel posted:I just bought a VW 2004 Jetta GL 2.0. I took it to a mechanic to get it checked out and they said it looked in good condition. Well I have driven it not even 50 miles and my check engine light is lit up. Is it a false signal or do I need to take it back to a mechanic and get it checked out again. I have heard it some cars it just pops up sometimes...but that seems weird to me. Any VW enthusiasts have the same issues with this car? Or just general advice? My Despair is right. Just go get yourself a code reader. You can get them online for as little as $20. Your MIL (check engine light) can be on with no impact on driveability for a nearly innumerable amount of reasons, some as minor as your gas cap not being on properly to things that would reduce your fuel mileage or possibly cause damage in the long term if not addressed. Also, the DTCs you get from your code reader are not diagnoses. They are indicators of where to look. Very often people at parts stores tell you "Oh yeah, just buy this and replace it" and they are usually wrong. If you post what you get here someone can help you figure out what to look for, how to test for it, and eventually how to fix it.
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Apr 8, 2012 18:35
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Motronic posted:My Despair is right. Just go get yourself a code reader. You can get them online for as little as $20. Thanks I'll get one of those code readers and I'll post back with the error code. Where to find a code reader?
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Apr 8, 2012 19:28
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tagelthebagel posted:Thanks I'll get one of those code readers and I'll post back with the error code. Where to find a code reader? If you want a deal, online is likely your best bet. Most of the junk at the auto parts stores are $60 and up, and are the same as the $20 in this top hit on Amazon. Sure, you can spend more and get something more rugged, or that provided better/more text descriptions, and even ones that try to suggest a solution. But as long as it spits out a list of DTCs (P0400, ect...a letter and 4 digits) and you have access to the Internet and know how to type something into google, you're all set.
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Apr 8, 2012 19:39
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I have one of these http://www.amazon.com/OBD2-Diagnostic-Cable-KKL409-1-VAG-COM/dp/B002WIN8VQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333911398&sr=8-1 and the free vcds-lite software.
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Apr 8, 2012 19:59
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You need a VW specific code reader, otherwise you'll only be getting the generic codes. A cheap $20 code reader isn't going to give you the bananas VW codes.
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Apr 8, 2012 20:26
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tagelthebagel, if you had a Mk5 or Mk6 Jetta I would happily offer to meet up and do a scan for you if you were from the Cleveland area - I have a Ross-Tech Micro-CAN cable and the fully featured VCDS software (the official Ross-Tech adapter cables double as a license dongle of sorts.) If you wouldn't quite consider yourself an enthusiast, definitely go for the cheap cable and VCDS lite as suggested by Mr. Despair - not having to rely on someone else to read your own engine codes is worth a lot more than  .
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Apr 8, 2012 20:52
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Actually I'll extend that offer to anyone in the greater Cleveland area, shoot me a PM if you need a scan. I'll do my best to help you out as time permits, the way work goes for me weekdays are probably not an option. Your chassis code will need to be compatible with a Micro-CAN cable: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/Micro-CAN.htmlveedubfreak posted:Considering you paid 35k for a gussied up GTI, yes. What the gently caress, I see what you mean now with the A3 - you can't configure a manual transmission petrol quattro to start, and you can't configure TDI quattro at all! This all makes me wonder exactly how much it actually costs to certify a single one of these possible variations in the United States... Here are pics of my new R, by the way! I drove a Golf 2011 TDI for 15 months and eventually found myself craving more power, AWD, and...the exact same chassis  The car is bonkers, and only tends to get the attention of the people who know exactly what they're looking at which is kind of nice.    
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Apr 8, 2012 21:30
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What color?
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Been a few hours now, and I don't think my new gaskets or cam seals are leaking, but the leak I had before is definitely still there. The gaskets needed to be replaced anyways, they did have small leaks, but they aren't the cause of the one that's bad enough to actually drip onto the ground. Since the top of the engine is dry I'm starting to think that maybe it's something with my oil pan, like maybe the gasket leaking or a puncture from a rock? Bah.
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Apr 9, 2012 00:34
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mrtrunks84 posted:So I finally received my VAG-COM cable and did some looking around in the ECU with VCDS to see if I could find the source of my Limp mode problems. The two codes I found were P0420 which was expected from earlier but I did see a code that my regular ECU scanner didn't see. The code is P2182 (Performance Malfunction in Cooling System). This code did not trigger a CEL and I have had my timing belt and water pump service done only 15K miles ago so I went ahead and cleared the engine codes to see if it would clear up the limp mode. This didn't work and I was back at square one. I remembered that I had my stock N75 valve and swapped that out with the "J" version I had installed. Believe it or not this has cleared up my problem. I assume the old valve was going out causing the actual boost to exceed requested boost and constantly throwing the car in limp mode. Now I just need to keep monitoring to make sure the cooling system error doesn't come back. It is fun to get to use VCDS now I need to do some data-logging to see what I can learn from this thing. Your thermostat is bad. Replace it, clear the fault.
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Apr 9, 2012 01:00
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I'm thinking about ordering a new 2013 S4 in the next few months. What do you guys think of it? Review seem to pretty positive for it. Are there any problem areas that I need to keep an eye out for? What about the electronics? I know those have been a problem with VAG products in the past. I know a few people who have had electrical horror stories with new VAG products so I'm wondering if that's still a thing or if they were just unlucky.
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Apr 9, 2012 02:31
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I've heard that ECU tuned GTIs run through clutches significantly more quickly. Is that true?
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Apr 9, 2012 03:06
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Residency Evil posted:I've heard that ECU tuned GTIs run through clutches significantly more quickly. Is that true? I may be wrong, but to my knowledge unless you're exceeding the power handling capacity of the clutch the same driving in an otherwise same vehicle should produce the same wear. I'd imagine though that an ECU tuned vehicle is much more likely to be driven hard and particularly launched hard, resulting in increased wear.
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Apr 9, 2012 03:50
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Residency Evil posted:I've heard that ECU tuned GTIs run through clutches significantly more quickly. Is that true? I got a 2004 GTI that is running quite a bit more horsepower and torque than stock for over 60+K miles. It still has the factory clutch at over 80+K miles and really hasn't skipped a beat. I think the only time it has slipped was when I was stupid hooning around and did a 2nd gear rolling clutch dump which caused some clutch slippage. The stock clutch for me has been surprisingly robust. If I still have it after 100K miles I might just go ahead and replace it. Really it's all in how much you let it slip during take off and gear change but will hold the power just fine.
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Apr 9, 2012 04:25
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Why would you replace a clutch at 100k if it isn't toast? It's not a timing belt on interference engine.
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Apr 9, 2012 04:29
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siliciferous posted:Nice R, and I like the vanity plate. I'm jealous of the power you're going to be able to make with light modifications, but keep trying to tell myself that the VR6 sounds amazing like that means something... Argh, if only you could get power out of the VR6 without dropping absurd amounts of money on a turbo or S/C kit. 
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Apr 9, 2012 04:30
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Bovril Delight posted:You need a VW specific code reader, otherwise you'll only be getting the generic codes. A cheap $20 code reader isn't going to give you the bananas VW codes. Yet it will cover the bulk of the most common DTCs. And everything that starts with a P. Sure, it's not going to know what that DTC is. But it's going to display a number. And that's what matters.
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Apr 9, 2012 14:03
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Mat_Drinks posted:Nice R, and I like the vanity plate. DERP was my first choice but it was taken  VW advertises the car as having 256hp in the US, but testing results from some of the first US owners might be telling a different story...really though, in the end who knows until someone does some testing at the crank. People are really interested in whether VW really did detune the car for the U.S. market down from the 270hp RoW spec or if they're only advertising as such to keep from stepping on Audi's toes. Motronic posted:Yet it will cover the bulk of the most common DTCs. And everything that starts with a P. If he can get a diag cable that works with a free/shareware copy of VCDS-Lite for less than a generic ODB2 code reader wouldn't he be better off with VCDS? This is an honest question, since the free Lite version seems to have quite a few limitations: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/vag-functions.html
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Apr 9, 2012 15:04
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siliciferous posted:DERP was my first choice but it was taken In practice I've found that vcds-lite does everything I need it to. I definitely wouldn't pay for vcds before trying the lite version and making sure it doesn't do what I need (and if all you want to do is pull engine codes or maybe look at some simple data, then the -lite version works great).
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Apr 9, 2012 16:06
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siliciferous posted:If he can get a diag cable that works with a free/shareware copy of VCDS-Lite for less than a generic ODB2 code reader wouldn't he be better off with VCDS? This is an honest question, since the free Lite version seems to have quite a few limitations: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/vag-functions.html Of course. We've also now increased the complexity, price, and requirements use quite a bit. Not everyone is a car guy/home mechanical enthusiast. What's less daunting: 1.) But $20 code reader and you have access to 90+% of the diagnostic data you'll be likely to need 2.) Find a cable for $20 on eBay. No, not that one...that one doesn't work. Oh...yeah, that's one's OK. Oh, you got a bad one...that happens with these cheap chinese knockoff cables. Cool, OK, you got a good one. Now get your laptop out and download this software. Oh, right, you have to run it in compatibility mode or as administrator or it doesn't work. OK...wait, it crashes when you connect to the car? Oh...you have to download this driver for it. The one that came on your CD is junk. OK, cool...got it connected?
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Apr 9, 2012 16:09
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siliciferous posted:The car is bonkers, and only tends to get the attention of the people who know exactly what they're looking at which is kind of nice. I saw my first Mk6 R in the wild yesterday on 295, a blue one with Virginia plates being driven by a guy who looked to be in his early 40s. I pulled up alongside in my GTI and honked and we shared a special VW bonding moment before he pulled out and gave it the beans. They are extremely handsome.
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Apr 9, 2012 16:15
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Mr. Despair posted:Been a few hours now, and I don't think my new gaskets or cam seals are leaking, but the leak I had before is definitely still there. The gaskets needed to be replaced anyways, they did have small leaks, but they aren't the cause of the one that's bad enough to actually drip onto the ground. Since the top of the engine is dry I'm starting to think that maybe it's something with my oil pan, like maybe the gasket leaking or a puncture from a rock? Bah. When I had a mystery leak in my old 2.slow, it turned out to be the oil pressure sending unit. Cheap and easy to replace, check that.
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Apr 9, 2012 16:16
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Mr. Apollo posted:I'm thinking about ordering a new 2013 S4 in the next few months. What do you guys think of it? Review seem to pretty positive for it. Are there any problem areas that I need to keep an eye out for? The platform has been bulletproof. There are no common complaints with the exception of a few folks who had water pump issues in the early days of the B8. It's a fantastic car. I'm not a super big fan of the refresh, but if you like it better dive in. I've got a fully loaded 2012 minus ADS and I couldn't be happier with it. I would suggest you at very least get the Sport Diff, and if you're on the fence about the S-Tronic transmission, drive one, it's incredible. The advanced key is also great particularly if like me you have an SO who may be driving from time to time as it auto-adjusts the seats, mirrors, etc depending on which key is used to unlock the car, bonus, you don't ever have to take your key out of your pocket. 
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Apr 9, 2012 16:17
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veedubfreak posted:When I had a mystery leak in my old 2.slow, it turned out to be the oil pressure sending unit. Cheap and easy to replace, check that. I'll check that today. Motronic posted:Of course. We've also now increased the complexity, price, and requirements use quite a bit. Not everyone is a car guy/home mechanical enthusiast. The 9 dollar cable I linked from amazon works just fine, and windows installs the drivers automatically for it (the cd is hilariously junk though). Don't need to hassle with compatibility mode or as admin to run vcds-lite either.
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Apr 9, 2012 16:31
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Motronic posted:Of course. We've also now increased the complexity, price, and requirements use quite a bit. Not everyone is a car guy/home mechanical enthusiast. You're right (questionably about price what with the $10 Amazon link above) - I don't know what tagelthebagel is comfortable with so I'm pointing out any additional options.
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Apr 9, 2012 16:40
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My original fuel pump follower issue has now resulted in VW paying for a new engine for my car. What a clusterfuck it's been getting a straight answer about whether they were going to cover it or not.
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Apr 9, 2012 22:03
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   No love from the PYOR thread so I'll drop these here. I love this car so much... SO MUCH.
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Apr 10, 2012 00:22
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Whats the interior look like?
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Apr 10, 2012 00:35
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 Sex on wheels
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Apr 10, 2012 06:30
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allonblack posted:The platform has been bulletproof. There are no common complaints with the exception of a few folks who had water pump issues in the early days of the B8. It's a fantastic car. I'm not a super big fan of the refresh, but if you like it better dive in. I like the advanced key feature. My current vehicle has a similiar push button system and it's something I've really gotten used to.
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Apr 11, 2012 04:34
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Mr. Apollo posted:Thanks for the info. I test drove one last week; it was a base model but it had the s-tronic transmission. One thing that I didn't realize (and had never seen mentioned in reviews of DCT/DSG transmissions) is that it rolls backwards (albeit briefly) on an incline like a manual. Not a big deal, just something I wasn't expecting. The DSG -is- a manual gearbox. It's just a computer controlled manual gearbox with 2 clutches and no torque converter.
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Apr 11, 2012 17:27
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veedubfreak posted:The DSG -is- a manual gearbox. It's just a computer controlled manual gearbox with 2 clutches and no torque converter. One thing I didn't test out but was wondering after the fact is if you're in drive but not on the gas or brake, will the car creep along like a torque converter based automatic or do you need to tap the gas pedal?
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Apr 11, 2012 18:10
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My manual is telling me to change the brake fluid every year, do ... you guys do this?
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Apr 11, 2012 18:31
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I change my brake fluid every other year.
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Apr 11, 2012 18:53
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Progression Please posted:My manual is telling me to change the brake fluid every year, do ... you guys do this? Every two on street cars, but every year (or more) on track cars.
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Apr 11, 2012 18:55
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