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BlackIronHeart posted:They typically use corn cob bits. Yeah, the media in my tumbler was corn cob bits. Here are the results:  All the plates in his armor still had primer in them after multiple weeks in Simple Green combined with toothbrush scrubbing. I was contemplating just buying a new one, so this was something I thought was worth trying.
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May 27, 2012 17:14
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dexefiend posted:Yeah, the media in my tumbler was corn cob bits. If the paint on it is acrylic, try using some dichloromethane: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dichloromethane-99-5-Pure-500ml-/140574254717?pt=UK_BOI_Medical_Lab_Equipment_Lab_Supplies_ET&hash=item20bae0e67d It's used as an industrial pain stripper, and it will eat its way through acrylic paint, greenstuff and superglue in minutes. All the paint should just flake away after an hour or most in a soak. Also it's also commonly used to glue plastic parts together as it melts the surface and fuses it when it hardens. It's usually sold under the name "PlasticWeld"but the bulk stuff is cheaper.
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May 27, 2012 17:43
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SRM posted:Over the course of a very long Mumble chat with a few buddies of mine, I was able to bring my first Commissar to completion: I've never seen that Commissar look so smug. So smug.  HardCoil posted:Some more WIPs of my truescale guy. I think I've repainted him about 4 times now, but I'm slowly getting shading to work. He just needs a highligt run, some panel lines and maybe some weathering. I think... Could use some more contrast on the weapons, especially the chainsword, unless of course uniformity is the intent (would fit with the militaristic theme). Otherwise, 
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May 27, 2012 19:09
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You are right. I'm used to just painting weapons with black+boltgun drybrush, so these new ways are confusing to me. Especilly since I'm trying to do polymer furniture for the most part.
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May 27, 2012 20:44
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In the 40k thread I mentioned wanting to try this - an ill-advised Necron Titan (supposed to be comparable to a Reaver). I've got the first wash done, and then I'll have to set up my airbrush for the armor plates. Is anyone interested in seeing more?  
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May 27, 2012 22:01
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Personally I would have made the Lego parts less, uh, Lego-y with some plasticard and Miliput/cheap body filler. Other than that, it's got this "I'm constipated" pose thing (though that may just be the angle of the photo). Now that I've made fun of it, I will say this: it's a whole poo poo-ton better than other Lego titans I've seen through this thread, and honestly it does look like a great start. It just needs more smooth architecture, like on the vehicles and larger models to really make it perfect.
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May 27, 2012 22:39
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Sole.Sushi posted:Personally I would have made the Lego parts less, uh, Lego-y with some plasticard and Miliput/cheap body filler. Other than that, it's got this "I'm constipated" pose thing (though that may just be the angle of the photo). I almost covered it in plasticard and filled the holes with putty, but I kind of liked the Terminator exposed superstructure look once it was assembled. And too much smooth surface would make it boring to look at - all the details are more places for highlights. Hopefully with a subdued "internals" paint scheme and red armor plates / blue Necron Orbs and weapons, the trusses will fade into the background more. But I'm glad it at least seems worth pursuing.
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May 27, 2012 22:57
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Infinite Karma posted:But I'm glad it at least seems worth pursuing. It is; I just worry that it will look more like "Terminator T-100" and less like "Necron." But once it's painted up, it will likely look much better.
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May 27, 2012 23:05
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Also, find a better base. That one is just goofy.
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May 28, 2012 00:13
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I remember reading some kind of basic hardware supplies being good as primers, was it Halford's spray paints? I'm guessing there's something equivalent I could pick up at B&Q?
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May 28, 2012 00:19
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The Supreme Court posted:I remember reading some kind of basic hardware supplies being good as primers, was it Halford's spray paints? I'm guessing there's something equivalent I could pick up at B&Q? Halford's is one, Krylon is a good brand as well. Really, any primer you get should be okay.
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May 28, 2012 00:34
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A "small" update. 15mm Sharon - 1973 edition is in it's almost complete form. Added sleeves, hands, enhanced the beret. Things get out of whack really quickly at 1:100. I'm not going to re-do it but the right hand with binoculars isn't exactly as it should be. For scale:   The guy: He's standing in front a clump of epiphytic moss I got as a gift/sample at a home decor design show.     What I've been working on the last couple of days:  Still a work in progress as you can see. It's a "fluff" drawing for the next models I'd like to make. A kind of special forces global anti space alien initiative type dudes.
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May 28, 2012 01:39
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Do any of you airbrush goons do minis with inks? I've been experimenting on a bloodletter today with a series of red/orange inks over zenithal priming, and am getting the easiest blends.
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May 28, 2012 02:08
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Manifest posted:Do any of you airbrush goons do minis with inks? Airbrushing inks, washes and glazes is great if you want a consistent cover over a wide area, or to cover the model completely. I use this method for washing my marines and giving them some nice gradients. It's just a shame that GW washes dont really work the same as old ones.
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May 28, 2012 02:36
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The Supreme Court posted:I remember reading some kind of basic hardware supplies being good as primers, was it Halford's spray paints? I'm guessing there's something equivalent I could pick up at B&Q? Duplicolor Sandable Primer, if they have it.
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May 28, 2012 03:07
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derp wrong thread
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May 28, 2012 03:38
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Infinite Karma posted:The pose is a little awkward, but the angle wasn't great. It doesn't look like a Terminator, though. It looks like a Lego guy painted silver. That's the problem. I think if you'd at least plasticarded the pin holes, it would've been much better, but it's probably too late now. I don't hate your idea. But I do think you could improve it greatly by just covering up the pin holes(the circular holes designed for Technic pins to stick into).
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May 28, 2012 05:15
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Mephiston posted:Airbrushing inks, washes and glazes is great if you want a consistent cover over a wide area, or to cover the model completely. I've been using P3 inks, and Vallejo Game Ink. They both work way better for this sort of thing than the GW washes (which tend to pool up, and clog the airbrush).
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May 28, 2012 05:34
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So over the course of the movie Airplane! and 9 episodes of The Twilight Zone, I painted my test Leman Russ:     And with some infantry for reference: 
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May 28, 2012 05:38
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SRM posted:Halford's is one, Krylon is a good brand as well. Really, any primer you get should be okay. Hermetic posted:Duplicolor Sandable Primer, if they have it. Thanks. Also Hermetic, after seeing your avatar I instinctively questioned your post. Playing mafia does weird things to posting on these boards. I'll look out for those primers though! The Supreme Court fucked around with this message at 12:57 on May 28, 2012 |
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May 28, 2012 12:54
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Duplicolor is the best primer I know, but I had to go to a few automotive shops to find it. Advance Autoparts carries it relatively cheap.
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May 28, 2012 13:21
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Manifest posted:I've been using P3 inks, and Vallejo Game Ink. They both work way better for this sort of thing than the GW washes (which tend to pool up, and clog the airbrush). I must have got a bad batch of vallejo ink, since all I ever got was spattering and beading. GW inks do clog up the needle cowl occasionally, but thats usually after a good 20 minutes of spraying. Thats pre and post changeover, too. Maybe i've just been lucky? Has anyone tried airbrushing army painter inks? I presume they're basically like the old gw washes, given that they're made in the same factory from the same formula.
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May 28, 2012 14:45
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Had a bunch of test models for the skin, but I think I'll stick to this for the rest of my Ogres. Looks much better a distance though.
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May 28, 2012 16:34
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Mephiston posted:I must have got a bad batch of vallejo ink, since all I ever got was spattering and beading. GW inks do clog up the needle cowl occasionally, but thats usually after a good 20 minutes of spraying. Thats pre and post changeover, too. Maybe i've just been lucky? I havent tried them because like you said, they're the same formula as the old gw washes and I don't really like how they airbrush. The washes (and now shades I guess) are decent for shading, but I'm more into experimenting with vibrant inks, and the gw ones are all pretty dark.
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May 28, 2012 16:52
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SRM posted:And with some infantry for reference: This looks really nice.
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May 28, 2012 17:29
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Posting an early WIP to vent: gently caress, this model is making me want to gouge out my eyes with my hobby knife, every five minutes I find a new mould line or weirdly lumpy piece. Layering reds is a pain in the cock but Mephiston makes things a lot easier admittedly. Unsure on the black to red gradient I've got going on, what do you goons think? Flipswitch fucked around with this message at 20:13 on May 28, 2012 |
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May 28, 2012 19:23
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The Supreme Court posted:Thanks. Also Hermetic, after seeing your avatar I instinctively questioned your post. Playing mafia does weird things to posting on these boards. I'll look out for those primers though! Yeah, for a second I was like "poo poo, can he spin that against me? Wait...no, this is the miniatures thread." moths posted:Duplicolor is the best primer I know, but I had to go to a few automotive shops to find it. Advance Autoparts carries it relatively cheap. I couldn't find it at Advance. I had to go to O'Reilly. Oddly, most places around here have a giant wall of the Duplicolor paints, but they don't carry much in the way of primer. Hermetic fucked around with this message at 19:45 on May 28, 2012 |
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May 28, 2012 19:42
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Does anyone have any recommendations of good plastic cutters? I've managed to loose my nice pair of gale force 9 ones  I'm uk based btw 
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May 28, 2012 20:32
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gilljoy posted:Does anyone have any recommendations of good plastic cutters? I've managed to loose my nice pair of gale force 9 ones I use the same ones, I never had any problem with my GW ones when I used those barring the price.
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May 28, 2012 20:38
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SRM posted:So over the course of the movie Airplane! and 9 episodes of The Twilight Zone, I painted my test Leman Russ: This looks really good. If I could offer some advice from doing whitewashed tanks from a historical modelling perspective is to try salt masking as a helpful technique to show the wearing of the green coming through the white on the edges and high wear areas. Also one thing that really stands out is the snow in the tracks to me. Unless that tank has been standing still (In which case there would also be snow on all flat edges.) the snow would be ground into the recesses of the tracks showing metal on the raised edges or alternatively it would just be slushy muddy mess. This is a really really good tank and you mention that this is a tester so its the perfect time to try new things.
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May 28, 2012 20:38
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big_g posted:This looks really good. If I could offer some advice from doing whitewashed tanks from a historical modelling perspective is to try salt masking as a helpful technique to show the wearing of the green coming through the white on the edges and high wear areas. Thanks for the advice! I've thought of salt weathering but it sounds like a lot of work. It's something I'm definitely filing away as a possibility. The notes on the track are noted though - on my next tanks I'll try to focus on getting the slush just in the recesses of the tracks instead of all over them. Glad you dig the tank.
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May 28, 2012 20:45
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Finally have some time to get back at painting little dudes. These are some WIP things I have been working on since Christmas.     I tried to be a bit fancier with the skin on Krueger, there .. not sure if I pulled it off.  Both of these guys have yet to get matte varnished so a lot of the shineyness should go away!
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May 28, 2012 20:48
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SRM posted:Thanks for the advice! I've thought of salt weathering but it sounds like a lot of work. It's something I'm definitely filing away as a possibility. The notes on the track are noted though - on my next tanks I'll try to focus on getting the slush just in the recesses of the tracks instead of all over them. Glad you dig the tank. I would really recommend giving it a try, it sometimes seems like a daunting advanced thing to do at first but really most of these techniques designed for tanks and larger models are actually really easy. I would put money on it being quicker than doing what you have done above by hand. They almost feel like cheating at times. I even use it on my 15mm Soviet FoW models now. tl;dr = salt masking (or any other kind) is piss easy and gives great results and you should try it now!
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May 28, 2012 21:04
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Miss the old washes? $3.20 and comes in a dropper bottle. From the FTW blog.
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May 28, 2012 21:25
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SRM posted:Thanks for the advice! I've thought of salt weathering but it sounds like a lot of work. It's something I'm definitely filing away as a possibility. The notes on the track are noted though - on my next tanks I'll try to focus on getting the slush just in the recesses of the tracks instead of all over them. Glad you dig the tank. I could be wrong, but if you're going for historical realism in this style then I've seen photos which would suggest any symbols on the tank would be painted on the base green, so the whitewash would be kept roughly clear of those bits as opposed to having the red star over the whitewash.
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May 28, 2012 21:49
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With all this whitewash talk I dug out some shots of a T34 I did a few years back for reference if its of interest to anyone: 
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May 28, 2012 22:12
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I just realized that I have finished all of my school work that was left before I graduate highschool! Now I can start painting my tiny plastic men again! 
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May 28, 2012 22:54
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So I recently picked up a box of old Space Marines from eBay to practice my painting before I went out and bought a new box that I would likely ruin. Here are the results of my very first painted mini.   I'm ok with how it turned out, considering I knew literally nothing about painting beforehand. The biggest problem I had, and still have, is priming. I bought some P3 white primer and I'm not sure if it's the primer or me (most likely the latter), but it ended up being too thick of a coat. I shook the can for close to a minute and sprayed lightly, but it seemed ever so often tiny globs of paint would spray out in a non-uniform fashion. I'd really appreciate any criticism about it so I can get better. EDIT: Excuse the crappy cell phone pictures. Also, here's one without extremely harsh lighting. 
unpurposed fucked around with this message at 23:09 on May 28, 2012 |
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May 28, 2012 22:57
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Danger - Octopus! posted:I could be wrong, but if you're going for historical realism in this style then I've seen photos which would suggest any symbols on the tank would be painted on the base green, so the whitewash would be kept roughly clear of those bits as opposed to having the red star over the whitewash.  that's something I did not think about at all! I won't repaint the star on this tank, but I'll do that for the next ones I do! Historical accuracy or not, I think it would make sense not to paint the star again if you were the guy whitewashing it.big_g posted:With all this whitewash talk I dug out some shots of a T34 I did a few years back for reference if its of interest to anyone: unpurposed posted:Here are the results of my very first painted mini.
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May 28, 2012 23:43
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Cross-posting some Skorne Paingivers:   Cyclops:    And since I don't know if I've posted this one before, Titan   I got the recipe for the blood splatter from here: http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.php?autocom=ineo&showarticle=298 Not totally happy with the blood on the Titan, but oh well.
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May 28, 2012 23:50
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