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PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~
Looks great, but Id definitely counter weigh it a bit on the backside of the base. I like the way your cork looks striated like a wall of sheared rock.

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Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010
And here I was wondering how to blend my Descent manticores with their new bases. Block cork, thanks :)

dexefiend
Apr 25, 2003

THE GOGGLES DO NOTHING!


I used a store bought airbrush stencil. I really liked how it came out.

I started out painting it a rich blue, and highlighted the folds of the cloth. Then I broke out the stencil and sprayed through it (very carefully).

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


PaintVagrant posted:

Looks great, but Id definitely counter weigh it a bit on the backside of the base. I like the way your cork looks striated like a wall of sheared rock.
Thanks, yeah I was a bit concerned as the miniature has basically zero balance to it and I pinned that miniature to the point that it's more pin than miniature so I really, really want to keep it together. I'll look into weighing it down.

As for the cork, that was what I was hoping to convey, I really wanted my Warcasters to stand out as if they're leading in an inspirational, Napoleonic painting fashion and desert cliffs seemed ideal for Menoth. (Plus the cover of the army book has a great example).

Pierzak posted:

And here I was wondering how to blend my Descent manticores with their new bases. Block cork, thanks :)
Yeah Cork is great to work with as it's easy to modify bits you don't like, and I picked up three varying sizes for very, very cheap so I'm dead happy with the results.

Vaporware
May 22, 2004

Still not here yet.

Verdugo posted:

For those who are familiar with the Reaper Paint line, I need help identifying a color. I received a pot of it for ordering some minis from their store and it's an awesome color, I just can't figure out what it's called. I tried paint conversion charts like http://www.squaretablegaming.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/GW_Paint_Conversion_Chart_yJR.pdf but I am coming up empty handed. It's a very very very dark brown grey almost black. This is a longshot but it's one of my favorite colors now and I want to order more.

Here's a pic of the bottle if anyone can help. Reaper said it's just a paint sample and they don't have a color name because it's a random sample they put in the box.



Can you email reaper? Sometimes these questions end up at the people who know at companies.

Not a viking
Aug 2, 2008

Feels like I just got laid

Flipswitch posted:


I want to sort of blend the cork pieces together at the bottom, I was thinking texture paste/medium to soften the transition to the plastic inside the rim, might work I think, any Goon suggestions?


gently caress this model if it falls over though, those stacks had to be pinned like a bitch so I think I'll need to weigh down the base at the bottom.

Looks great. Where are you getting the cork?

Verdugo
Jan 5, 2009


Lipstick Apathy

Vaporware posted:

Can you email reaper? Sometimes these questions end up at the people who know at companies.

I did. This is what they said:

quote:

Sorry, most sample paint we put into orders are mis-match paint colors. So instead of throwing away paint, we bottle it and put it into internet orders.

Best Regards,
Adrienne Hawkins
Reaper Miniatures

So I'll have to use the paint picker and find something similar, and conserve this paint for when I really need it. Thanks for the advice everyone.

KozmoNaut
Apr 23, 2008

Happiness is a warm
Turbo Plasma Rifle


Verdugo posted:

I did. This is what they said:


So I'll have to use the paint picker and find something similar, and conserve this paint for when I really need it. Thanks for the advice everyone.

Are one of these a match?

http://fromthewarp.blogspot.dk/2012/05/my-replacement-for-charadon-granite.html

Personally, I'd say Vallejo Extra Opaque Charcoal looks a lot like Charadon Granite (the middle one in the comparison). Or possibly German Gray Dark or Black Grey.

KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Jun 19, 2012

dexefiend
Apr 25, 2003

THE GOGGLES DO NOTHING!
I like 1:1:1 VMC German Grey, VGC Cold Grey, thinner. It is a great mix.

The Supreme Court
Feb 25, 2010

Pirate World: Nearly done!
I just primed some models and the paint has come out really thick and kinda chunky. This is in dry, warm conditions and after shaking the can around like a madman. Is it something I've done wrong? It's the second time I've used the primer (Army Painter Matt White) and it was like this first time around; I just assumed that was due to a new can or not shaking it properly or something.

Purgey
Nov 5, 2008
My gaming group is steering more towards skirmish scale games these days. This gives me a good excuse to start cracking down and painting all my models as at most a side will be 15-20 models, as opposed to the hundreds that a 40k game might entail! :suicide:



The model is a Star Wars Miniatures Bith Rebel with a Maxmini head, IG pouches and a Heroclix handaxe. My goal is to kitbash some use out of my multitude of prepainted Wizards of the Coast miniatures.

I resisted the urge to make this guy too chaos-y, as in the fluff he's just a scummy pirate type as opposed to a dyed in the wool chaos cultist or mutant. I do regret the color palette (and head choice!) because he kind of looks like a Space Injun.

The lighting is unflattering but overall I am satisfied with him. Its only a throwaway Chaos Renegade grunt so I must resist the urge to lavish more time on it. Get it painted and then put it aside, thats what I've got to tell myself. If I obsess over the details I'll never get anything finished.



Renegade vs. my old Genestealer. Note, thick paint and kitty litter flock :barf:



I'm currently torn between dark earth w/ yellow static grass or a more martian red planet look.



This fellow is a Dungeons and Dragons Miniatures ranger. The hood and pose screamed 40k to me so he's next on the kitbash list. I plan to put a cadian command respirator on him, some pouches, maybe an auspex and some technobits on the front, and then put a Maxmini "gothic backpack" on his back and attach the picture Mageknight clockwork robot arms and legs as wanna-be mechadendrites. Naturally, each robo-arm would end with a grasper, laser cutter/etc and not the stumps/hands that are currently attached. Also a servoskull, cuz its not GRIMDARK without a servoskull!

Purgey fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Jun 19, 2012

Verdugo
Jan 5, 2009


Lipstick Apathy
I think those figures are pretty neat. My biggest issue with Mage Knight stuff is it's so floppy, but we used a bunch of mech types to make some pimped out Ork Nobz in power armor.

SRM
Jul 10, 2009

~*FeElIn' AweS0mE*~

The Heckler posted:

So i've been taking a break from my Grey Knights to paint up a Necromunda gang. I was going for a Mad Max kinda style. Apologies for the shoddy pics:











Quoting these guys because they're loving rad.

Also, having respiratory problems then spray sealing a platoon of Valhallans is not a good idea. That's what I learned today.

Unzip and Attack
Mar 3, 2008

USPOL May
So I've made a couple generic dungeon tiles using some nice color print outs glued to 1/8" thick posterboard. So now I'm wanting to get some trees/boulders/generic land features to add for flavor. Any ideas on where those could be had for cheap, or good methods for making some?

C-C-C-CUNT
Jun 16, 2005

SHOOTING OUT MY WARRIOR JUICE

The Supreme Court posted:

I just primed some models and the paint has come out really thick and kinda chunky. This is in dry, warm conditions and after shaking the can around like a madman. Is it something I've done wrong? It's the second time I've used the primer (Army Painter Matt White) and it was like this first time around; I just assumed that was due to a new can or not shaking it properly or something.

It could be that you were too far or too close, if you're too far, the paint can dry in the air before it hits your models and you'dd get an orange peel sort of grainy thing going on, if you're too close, you can get too much paint on the model.

Babe Magnet
Jun 2, 2008

Proper spray-paint-priming techniques took me around 30 or so models to get down. There are so many little environmental things that can modify how close you need to be to get that good consistency down, the best you can do is just prime single minis until you get comfortable with the distance.

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?
Buglord
Is there a preferred method for slightly thickening citadel paints without overdoing it and drying out an entire pot? I bought the last of the rotting flesh I could find, and all of them are too thin to use effectively for a drybrushing.

Also if anyone knows where a good stash of the old paint colors can be found, or the Rotting Flesh equivalent in Vallejo or Reaper, that'd be great as well.

Edit: Just remembered one more question - I'm looking for a good guide for pale, diseased / dead skin - I was thinking layer light grey > wash red/purple > drybrush white. Is that a good method, or does someone know of a better?

Fake James fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Jun 19, 2012

Mango Polo
Aug 4, 2007

Dr. Lenin posted:

Also if anyone knows where a good stash of the old paint colors can be found, or the Rotting Flesh equivalent in Vallejo or Reaper, that'd be great as well.

Dead Flesh for Vallejo Game Color.
Pale Olive for Reaper.

This chart is not always accurate, but it's a good starting point to find equivalents.

e to your e: Something like this? Or maybe this?

Verdugo
Jan 5, 2009


Lipstick Apathy

Dr. Lenin posted:

Is there a preferred method for slightly thickening citadel paints without overdoing it and drying out an entire pot? I bought the last of the rotting flesh I could find, and all of them are too thin to use effectively for a drybrushing.

Also if anyone knows where a good stash of the old paint colors can be found, or the Rotting Flesh equivalent in Vallejo or Reaper, that'd be great as well.

Edit: Just remembered one more question - I'm looking for a good guide for pale, diseased / dead skin - I was thinking layer light grey > wash red/purple > drybrush white. Is that a good method, or does someone know of a better?

RE: Dead skin, I like this tut: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/233022.page

Used it on some plague marines and I liked how it came out.

RE: Vallejo Rotting Flesh:

http://www.evicerator.com/vallejotogwconversiontable.htm

PP "equivalent" is Thrall Flesh but it's not as nice.

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?
Buglord

Mango Polo posted:

Dead Flesh for Vallejo Game Color.
Pale Olive for Reaper.

This chart is not always accurate, but it's a good starting point to find equivalents.

e to your e: Something like this? Or maybe this?

Thanks man!

The second link has closer examples to what I'm looking for. My Deathguard's armor color is primarily Rotting Flesh so I figure a little purple in there will stand out, while going somewhat well with the pale green trim. This is really helpful, I appreciate it.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002

Grimey Drawer

Dr. Lenin posted:

Is there a preferred method for slightly thickening citadel paints without overdoing it and drying out an entire pot? I bought the last of the rotting flesh I could find, and all of them are too thin to use effectively for a drybrushing.

Also if anyone knows where a good stash of the old paint colors can be found, or the Rotting Flesh equivalent in Vallejo or Reaper, that'd be great as well.

Edit: Just remembered one more question - I'm looking for a good guide for pale, diseased / dead skin - I was thinking layer light grey > wash red/purple > drybrush white. Is that a good method, or does someone know of a better?

For thickening the paint, just glob some on to your palette then wait a few minutes until evaporation gets it where you want it.

JoshTheStampede
Sep 8, 2004

come at me bro
Reaper has a dead skin triad (something like ghoul skin/dead skin/bloodless skin) and one of them is probably close to rotting flesh.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
So to finish off my Grey Knights I actually had to paint some tanks. Now many posters here will know I have a pathological fear of anything mechanical so I've actually never painted a tank before, so, go nuts.

















It was interesting trying to make the tanks tie into the bases of my normal dudes, which look like this

serious gaylord fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Jun 19, 2012

Giant Tourtiere
Aug 4, 2006

TRICHER
POUR
GAGNER
Finished off the Feral Warpwolf!




I'm actually pretty pleased with how he came out. I tried a couple of new things that I think worked ok, especially the musculature. Just for fun I stuck him next to the Stalker I painted about a year ago:



I think it's better!

Fix
Jul 26, 2005

NEWT THE MOON

I dunno, I guess those tanks are kinda ok.

dishwasherlove
Nov 26, 2007

The ultimate fusion of man and machine.

"Hey guys I never did this before, please don't judge my amazing painting talent too harshly."

Giant Tourtiere
Aug 4, 2006

TRICHER
POUR
GAGNER
Holy poo poo those tanks. I love the dust or regolith or whatever the heck it is.

Tops me right back up on humility. :v:

crime fighting hog
Jun 29, 2006

I only pray, Heaven knows when to lift you out

serious gaylord posted:

So to finish off my Grey Knights I actually had to paint some tanks.

Looks like poo poo. Throw it into the street and kill yourself twice.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
gaylord, did you ever complete your Phantom titan? Got any pics?

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

The Heckler posted:

*Necromunda awesomeness*
So, why the gently caress isn't this posted in the specialist thread yet?

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

BlackIronHeart posted:

gaylord, did you ever complete your Phantom titan? Got any pics?

One of the thighs sheared in half and it fell down the back of my cabinet. I was real mad so they've sent me a new body.

I never finished it because it kept falling apart so its not that big a loss to start over.

The Supreme Court
Feb 25, 2010

Pirate World: Nearly done!

C-C-C-oval office posted:

It could be that you were too far or too close, if you're too far, the paint can dry in the air before it hits your models and you'dd get an orange peel sort of grainy thing going on, if you're too close, you can get too much paint on the model.

Babe Magnet posted:

Proper spray-paint-priming techniques took me around 30 or so models to get down. There are so many little environmental things that can modify how close you need to be to get that good consistency down, the best you can do is just prime single minis until you get comfortable with the distance.
Thanks for the advice, I'll experiment with what I'm doing next time I prime stuff.

The Heckler posted:

So i've been taking a break from my Grey Knights to paint up a Necromunda gang. I was going for a Mad Max kinda style. Apologies for the shoddy pics:


The quality of people's work in this thread is amazing, but this gang is really something special. Fab stuff!

Not a viking
Aug 2, 2008

Feels like I just got laid
Those tanks are kick rear end. But I think the lighting is a bit too yellow/orange. The Necromunda gang is awesome!

In other news, I finally got around to finishing my units of Chaos Dwarfs. Not pictured are the BSB and the Lord who will join the unit to make it 30 strong.



Bonus WIP Black Orc for Blood Bowl.



The grey parts are going to be white, but I'm not sure if I'm happy about the color/metal ratio on his armor/uniform. More color? More random bits of armor and color?

Not a viking fucked around with this message at 06:45 on Jun 20, 2012

Flipswitch
Mar 30, 2010


Not a viking posted:

Looks great. Where are you getting the cork?
Sorry on the delay, buggered off to my LGS to use the lass.

I got mine from Antenocitis workshop.
http://www.antenocitisworkshop.com/wargames-bases-basing/basing-materials.html
In particular I got the boulders, the large and fine cork pieces.

Purgey
Nov 5, 2008

The Heckler posted:

So i've been taking a break from my Grey Knights to paint up a Necromunda gang. I was going for a Mad Max kinda style. Apologies for the shoddy pics:











I've got a few more Gang/Inquisitor Retinue projects in the pipeline but right now i'm back on the Grey Knights. I should have another 1000 points finished by the end of summer hopefully! Here's some WIP shots:

Ordo Hereticus Inquisitor



He's gonna be going alongside a churchtank conversion i'm working on, but I'm also going to pick this up next weekend and convert it up:



A tamiya 1/35 German Staff Car. Gonna have a big Inquisitorial hood ornament and blacked out windows. Classy!

Another Orgryn Servitor:





Lastly my Dreadknight, AKA Techno Grandpa's Dialysis Nightmare.




I had a go on my mate's airbrush for the main basecoat. It was alot of fun and i could see the potential for alot of really cool source lighting and blended highlighting techniques. I don't think i'll buy one just yet though. It'll have a greatsword which i'll paint up the same as my usual force weapons: Boltgun metal basecoat with 7-8 Asurmen blue washes over the top.

I'd like to try some fancy NMM or lightning effects for my next armies power weapons, along with much more subtle shading/highlighting on the models in general. Does anyone have any advice or know of any good guides for wet blending?

I can't believe I didn't quote this to say that I love the necromunda gang, especially the penal trooper(?) in orange. A lot of military cues here and there that makes it seem like the gang was just a guardsmen squad that deserted or went AWOL.

Also keep us posted on how the 1/35 tamiya staff car goes because I really want to do up some civilian transports and I think that might fit the bill nicely.

Mephiston
Mar 10, 2006

Red Shoe posted:

I painted some Bloodcrushers! 12 of them. It took a month. Never again - hopefully 6th doesn't make them worthless somehow or I might have to cut myself.






on the plus side, if you do you have the perfect models with which to do it :v:

everyone wear hats now
Jul 29, 2010

Cheers guys! The idea for the gang is exactly that: A guardsman squad gone AWOL and hiding out on a hive planet somewhere. The Penal trooper was the first/only model i've painted with the new GW paints. I was pretty impressed with them, not so much the textured paints though. For my next gang i'm gonna go out of my comfort zone and try painting some alien/mutant types. Should be fun!

Incidentally, i had no idea there was a specialist games thread. Time to repaint my Warhammer Quest Halfling thief...

Red Shoe - Those Bloodletters on Juggernauts are crazy awesome models, and i think your paintjob has definitley done them justice. The standard bearer in particular looks wicked.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002

Grimey Drawer
Pretty pro page right here. Good job dudes, keep it up.

Hellbeard
Apr 8, 2002


Please report me if you see me post in GBS so a moderator may bulldoze my account like a palestinian school.
V.06, needs more sanding.







Pouches, will re do strap on main compartment.







Alien busts, no idea what's happening there.





A face, meh.







A skull, brown stuff.

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SolidRed
Jan 23, 2008
and if you didn't know.... NOW YOU KNOW - Christian Cage

dexefiend posted:



I used a store bought airbrush stencil. I really liked how it came out.

I started out painting it a rich blue, and highlighted the folds of the cloth. Then I broke out the stencil and sprayed through it (very carefully).

This isn't getting enough love. This looks extremely cool.

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