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I dunno if these are the ones you looked at but they have a rollbarless kit http://www.projectgla.com/gstring_na.html
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Jun 23, 2012 22:03
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 16:21 |
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That's what I looked at and I completely missed the rollbar-less kit. Thanks!
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Jun 23, 2012 22:14
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Where did you see a kit that doesn't require a rollbar?
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Jun 23, 2012 22:50
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"$160 - Bikini Bar Use with DIY KIT(sold seperately) For Rollbarless Cars or Doublehoop Rollbars"
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Jun 23, 2012 22:54
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Oh Christ, for that price you may as well just get a real rollbar. Or just fabricate something yourself to hold it up.
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Jun 23, 2012 22:59
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You will need some seatbelt type woven strap, and pop rivets. Position the bows where you want them to be and measure it out, then rivet a strap from the front bow to each following bow with them in their positoned place. For the rear bow, you will need to make straps that run down to the studs in the well area. When you latch the frame closed you want the straps to be under a little tension but not a lot. This will hold the frame together where you want and give whatever mesh top youre designing some solid support. Its simple measure and cut stuff, with a good eye for the geometry you can set it up easy. The parachute effect when you drive will be an issue if you dont get the mesh top under enough tension to resist ballooning up when youre going faster.
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Jun 24, 2012 04:27
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Alternatively, buy a hat.
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Jun 25, 2012 00:09
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How rebuildable are the Mazdaspeed gearboxes? If you wanted fresh synchros, are there parts and shops out there that can do that?
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Jun 25, 2012 03:23
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Looking at getting an alignment done, and one thing was brought up - apparently the rear lower control arm bushings tend to need replacement, and if it hasn't been adjusted in a while (I have no idea when the last alignment was done...) the alignment bolts can often snap getting them off. The tech said they can occasionally save the bushings, but that the bolts are usually shot. Is this generally accurate? I'd like to get a more aggressive alignment for auto-x, but I'm a bit worried about needing to replace bushings and whatnot.
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Jun 25, 2012 17:41
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The bushings are sleeved, sooooo no? Buying new eccentrics isn't a bad idea though. They stretch out over time and it's pretty good insurance.
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Jun 25, 2012 18:27
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You'll have to get it aligned sooner or later anyway from just normal use, so might as well throw new bolts at it now when you have the time to prepare.
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Jun 25, 2012 18:37
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Yeah the bolts made sense to me, but the bushings needing replacement didn't really. Is there any way to visually inspect the bushings? I'm going to have it on a lift next weekend when I do the brakes, so if there's an easy way of checking if they're still good other than visually inspecting for any cracks I can do that then.
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Jun 25, 2012 18:45
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Year/mileage? I did the bushings on my 94 (170k) and all of the OE rubber ones had plenty of meat on them when I pushed them out. If you do aftermarket bushings, it'll push you into CSP.
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Jun 25, 2012 19:29
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99 with 143k km's or just under 90k miles. It was winter driven for the first time this year, but I believe it was stored in an unheated garage the other winters.
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Jun 25, 2012 19:48
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I cannot for the goddamn life of me get my clutch to bleed. I've tried every loving trick suggested on m.net besides a mighty vac. It will not flow! The stupid slave cylinder gave up on me when I went to get tubing to do a clutch bleed because I suspected the slave cylinder was going. Towed it back to my apartment, swapped it out with a new one and now I'm loving stuck. I have spent hours on this garbage. It's ending up like my nine-hour brake job I did when I first got the car except now I have a job that expects me to be there and no other transportation. Any help please? From what I have read it should go: Step 1 - remove cap from master cylinder Step 2 - Press and hold clutch (or pump I don't know neither works) Step 3 - undo bleeder valve, redo bleeder valve Step 4 - Let go of clutch. Repeat until clean fluid comes out. Topping off the master cylinder as needed. I've gotten dirty fluid to travel maybe an inch or two out the hose and then some air, then nothing. Fluid doesn't move farther than that. Then once I let go the fluid all drains back. Master cylinder is full and remains full. No leaks I can see. Clutch pedal remains pressure less. What the hell is wrong with me if this should be so simple?
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Jun 27, 2012 22:57
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Can you prefill the line? Un-hook it at the slave so it starts leaking out (have some refilling reservoir) to get the air mostly out. Re-connect the line as it's leaking out. I've done it when swapping calipers, so I'm not sure if it will work on the clutch system. Just thought it might help get fluid almost there.
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Jun 27, 2012 23:04
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AkrisD posted:What the hell is wrong with me if this should be so simple? No chance you have a blown master cylinder? If you had a bad master, it won't flow fluid...
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Jun 27, 2012 23:06
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Blaise posted:No chance you have a blown master cylinder? If you had a bad master, it won't flow fluid... I definitely had a bad slave. There was fluid gushing all out the boot when I went to check it. How would you diagnose a bad mc? I looked underneath my dash and didn't notice any drips or anything.
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Jun 27, 2012 23:48
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Just get a mityvac. It's the only way I was able to bleed mine after I replaced my master, and I never had a massive slave leak like that (was able to catch it both times before it got too bad). And if the master isn't moving any fluid, that's one way to call it bad right there, but a vac will at least help you make sure it's not just air blocking the way.
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Jun 28, 2012 00:50
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Put hawk HP+'s on today. Bed in procedure resulted in lots of smoke, sparks, and glowing rotors. Panick stops have a whole new meaning
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Jun 28, 2012 06:59
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When I bedded in my track pads I hit a stop sign shortly after. Some lady was walking her dog, she gave me quite a look when she realized that all 4 wheels had smoke pouring out of them.
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Jun 28, 2012 13:36
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Had an extended conversation with 949 racing last night about wheel/tire combos for my street and track miata. Basically, there's no reason not to run a 225/45/15 on even a stock NA. The only downside is the more expensive wheels, tires, and extra drag. Given that 185/60/14 Star Specs cost *more* than 225/45/15 RS-3s, I think I'm gonna take the plunge and buy a set of 15x8s for my street car. I could give a drat about fuel economy. Also: 15x8s will fit any miata 15x9s will only clear coilovers (without spacers), needs a fender roll 15x10s require major cutting and stuff
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Jun 28, 2012 15:28
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That sounds about right. I know that emilio has posted on MT about which tire size/wheel combo is fastest; 15x8 with a 205mm and 15x9 with a 225mm. I ran the R-S3s on a 15x7 wheel (yay being broke), and I needed to roll the front fenders. Bedding in pads are fun. I did my HT-10s at night which made for quite a show. I may, or may not, have splashed a few cars with sparks.
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Jun 28, 2012 15:58
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Are the HP+ pads the "street" pads? Also what are some decent rotors to go with them? I gotta do the brakes on all four corners, fronts are warped and the rears are dragging, hopefully I won't need calipers.....Although I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and get rear calipers instead of spending a bunch of time trying to get the originals working right. Every time I take off the parking brake and let out the clutch I hear a loud POP from them coming unstuck. Also the fluid is BLACK. I hate flushing fluid with a hand pump, anyone got a better idea for brake line flushing that doesn't involve a mighty vac.....
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Jun 28, 2012 16:43
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HP+ are an aggressive street pad that holds up weld for autox and your first/second HPDE. They dust like crazy and are noisy, but they work well. For rotors, I've been happy with NAPA blanks. I'm not sure if there's still a lottery going for them, but I've gotten Brembo blanks for the rear in the past. If you need a rear caliper, Rockauto's semi-loaded is the way to go; you don't need to swap over the bracket and it was reasonable when I bought it (95 shipped, iirc). http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1190911&parttype=1704
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Jun 28, 2012 17:10
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For anyone thinking of switching to an aggressive pad, do it. I'm still getting used to the bite of the HP+'s, they're relatively smoth for the first little bit, which helps for city driving in traffic, but apply anything more than that and they grab like crazy. ABS engaging at 90+ km/h is ah interesting, I never thought I'd actually chirp the tires at those speeds when braking. And yeah they squeal a bit in low speed parking lot kinda stuff, but not much. I'll try to get the picture my friend took when I was bedding mine in. Pitch black out at night, you can see sparks flying and glowing rotors through the cloud of smoke. Oh, and of course one of my new fronts is slightly scored. It's visible but I can't feel it with my hand, so I'm not too worried. Probably a spec of dust or something during the bedding, but I'll have to watch it. Also adjusted the ebrake so it actually works after 4-7 clicks too, woo.
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Jun 28, 2012 17:59
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TrueChaos posted:Also adjusted the ebrake so it actually works after 4-7 clicks too, woo. Drift auto-x time 
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Jun 28, 2012 19:37
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leica posted:Are the HP+ pads the "street" pads? Also what are some decent rotors to go with them? I gotta do the brakes on all four corners, fronts are warped and the rears are dragging, hopefully I won't need calipers.....Although I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and get rear calipers instead of spending a bunch of time trying to get the originals working right. Every time I take off the parking brake and let out the clutch I hear a loud POP from them coming unstuck. My experience with the MityVac for brake fluid flushing was one of little progress and bubbles getting sucked in where the hose meets the bleeder. Motronic recommended a pressure bleeder when I asked the same basic question, and reading up on it, it looks like it would be much less work than a MityVac for this kind of job. http://www.motiveproducts.com/
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Jun 28, 2012 19:54
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Speed bleeders > *
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Jun 28, 2012 19:58
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Blaise posted:Had an extended conversation with 949 racing last night about wheel/tire combos for my street and track miata. 8s is probably the right way to go, but I'm running the 225/45/15 RS-3s on my stock wheels. Been working pretty well for me. Though I have a friend who is a designer for Michelin and he tells me I would feel an improvement by going to 8 wides.
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Jun 28, 2012 23:09
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leica posted:Also the fluid is BLACK. I hate flushing fluid with a hand pump, anyone got a better idea for brake line flushing that doesn't involve a mighty vac.....
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Jun 28, 2012 23:27
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That is awesome. Thank you, gonna get to work making one asap. Never using a mighty vac for brakes ever again.
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Jun 29, 2012 02:03
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Yeah just keep the pressure low. 10 PSI is plenty. And a trick is once you get to the last wheel and it's flushed, turn the sprayer bottle sideways so it's pushing out air instead of brake fluid until your MC is at the right level. Otherwise it will be super full when you try to take the fluid-filled hose out and make a mess. e: Use your Mighty Vac again as a canister to catch all the fluid from the REAL bleeder. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 02:22 on Jun 29, 2012 |
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Jun 29, 2012 02:11
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NC problem: I have two metal objects rattling around in the back, shifting as I turn. It's annoying. I think they're two screws to the top latch mechanism that fell out some time ago. I've replaced them, but never found the ones that fell out. Where did they likely go? Is there an easy way to access the area and get them out? I pulled the trunk trim, and just found a metal barrier in my way. I examined the storage area that exists when the top is up, where the top folds into. If I'm right about the source of the rattling, two screws fell out of the top latch, dropped down into the area I just described, and fell through one of two holes on each side of the plastic trim that serves as the floor for this area. There are plastic rivets around this area. Should I remove the rivets and pull that plastic out of that area and poke around? Is this a project that will end with me taking it apart without being able to put it back together?
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Jul 1, 2012 19:22
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My 2002 NB just randomly died on the way home. It cranks over but won't start. Where do I start once it's towed home?
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Jul 2, 2012 19:22
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See if you can hear the fuel pump working when you first turn the key?
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Jul 2, 2012 19:26
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Sockington posted:My 2002 NB just randomly died on the way home. It cranks over but won't start. Sell it to me for $500. This is the pass it forward miata thread now.
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Jul 2, 2012 19:58
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Sockington posted:My 2002 NB just randomly died on the way home. It cranks over but won't start. See if you have spark, if you don't suspect CAS. The coil packs on the 2001+ cars are pretty solid. It took ~6-7 hours on track with twice the dwell I should have been running to kill mine.
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Jul 3, 2012 02:32
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I went back a few hours later and it started right up and drove the 20min home 
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Jul 3, 2012 02:45
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 16:21 |
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Well if you hit a junk yard any cam sensor off a NB will work. The 99-00s are mounted differently but it's the same part. I think they are ~80-90 new, possibly less with the racer discount.
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Jul 3, 2012 02:52
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