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High Protein posted:Haha that's awesome, I'm in Europe and mine's an American grey import. So next to my mp/h speedo I've got a bicycle speedo that does km/h and as a great bonus, shows the time. Does yours have the speeding nag light? Actually, I learned that gear business from this forum, probably from one of your posts. I have a nag light set to whatever the Japanese maximum speed limit was. I also have a stock oil cooler going to the block on mine that only leaks a tiny bit from being smooshed on one side. I want that battery for lights for WHEN I break down on the side of the road. I also never realized that the ordinary model had both 18" wheels, I have a 17" front on mine. Anyway, I disassembled both of my leaking petcocks today, and cleaned up the tank a bit by using electrolysis on the whole deal. I got a giant Rubbermaid container and used a 50amp car battery charger hooked to a piece of old rebar. It got a lot of the old torn up paint on the outside to loosen up, so only a bit remains. I think with more time and a better electrode I can get all but a few spots cleaned. I am thankful that it is not a bondo mess underneath the paint at least.
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Jul 22, 2012 06:32
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Got ready to install my new horns. And then realized I'd have to remove my full gas tank to do a proper wiring job. gently caress that. Instead, I mended my nicked gas cap gasket with some permatex, temporarily mended the crack in my cowl, and picked up a nail in my rear tire. I also checked out an incredible parts stash, going to see if I can split it with another Hawker in the area.
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Jul 22, 2012 07:19
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Entered it into my favorite motorcycle show in Minneapolis and won "Best Japanese Bike" And they gave this bad rear end as gently caress trophy. 
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Jul 22, 2012 07:22
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titanium posted:Entered it into my favorite motorcycle show in Minneapolis and won "Best Japanese Bike" That is badass. But which "it?" You've got forty bikes, and only seven belong to you.
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Jul 22, 2012 09:10
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Commodore_64 posted:Actually, I learned that gear business from this forum, probably from one of your posts. I have a nag light set to whatever the Japanese maximum speed limit was. I Whoa, is this what the little orange mark on my speedometer at 70mph is supposed to be? I've been totally unable to figure that one out.
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Jul 22, 2012 17:06
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 DSC_0268 by Andrew Wong MPLS, on Flickr My TW200 won it. Here's more photos from the show. http://www.flickr.com/photos/datsun_wong/sets/72157630696760148/with/7622750342/
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Jul 22, 2012 17:19
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I've been getting the oil warning light appear under middle/heavy braking recently, so decided to see what was up. Found that my oil level was a little low. Bike has around a 3.5 litre capacity, and the oil was changed in October, I think. Anyway, did an oil top up - took around 2 litres. How the gently caress did the light not come on sooner, and that seems to be a lot of oil to have to top up. Is 2 litres in around 1000 miles normal? Running a 2001 GPZ500, if that makes a difference.
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Jul 23, 2012 10:24
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It's an oil pressure light, it only came on when there was not enough oil for it to pick up any at all. Basically you had enough to be above the pickup, until you hit the brakes. 2 liters/1000 miles is pretty high. I would look for leaks first, assuming it's running fine.
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Jul 23, 2012 12:12
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Mighty Zoltar posted:
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Jul 23, 2012 13:12
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It's running 100% fine, so I guess there must be a leak. I think it must be because I didn't swap the sump plug washer when I did the oil change, so it has a slow leak. The things you learn when you start with motorcycles. Due to this issue, I guess I will need to do a full oil change and replace the sum plug washer. Nice.
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Jul 23, 2012 13:22
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Mighty Zoltar posted:It's running 100% fine, so I guess there must be a leak. I think it must be because I didn't swap the sump plug washer when I did the oil change, so it has a slow leak. The things you learn when you start with motorcycles. If you get stuck without a new crush washer (I've forgotten to pick one up a couple of times) you can re-use the old one if you re-anneal it. The washers are soft when new but tightening a bolt down on them compresses the copper and "work hardens" it. Annealing allows the metal to de-stress and soften up again, cooling it quickly helps to keep it soft too. All you need to do is heat it up until it's glowing softly and then quench it in some water. I suspend it on a wire hook and use a propane torch but in the past I have used a cooking hob and I suspect even a normal lighter would get such a small piece hot enough. I must stress that this is not best practice, for the few pennies it costs just get a new damned washer but if you're caught short it should work just fine. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 14:07 on Jul 23, 2012 |
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Jul 23, 2012 14:04
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Chris Knight posted:That's way too much, for sure. Shhhhhh, my bike might hear you! :shh: It's alright baby, you are old but I still love you.
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Jul 23, 2012 14:44
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This is my bike back shortly after I bought it a few years ago: Unfortunately last october some neighborhood kids spraypainted a giant dick on the front of my fairing and then I put the bike in storage for the winter. First project after I swapped the oil and gas was to get rid of the plastic. Tossed on some new bars and a cheap headlight. Still not sure what to do about speed and tach.  I also bled both front and rear brakes, my dad was trying to tell me it wasn't neccessary and the fluid "didn't look so bad" the whole time:  Tracking down a weird jingle led me to a cracked-loose header, so the next project will be replacing that with the one from ebay I just ordered and hopefully doing something about my ratty seat.
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Jul 23, 2012 18:39
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Post a picture of the dick fairing.
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Jul 23, 2012 18:56
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The shadow in the first pic looks like a rad bike facing the other way.
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Jul 23, 2012 19:31
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Mighty Zoltar posted:I've been getting the oil warning light appear under middle/heavy braking recently, so decided to see what was up. Found that my oil level was a little low. Bike has around a 3.5 litre capacity, and the oil was changed in October, I think. You might be due for a change since it's been 9 months, but you should be checking it regularly between changes. I've noticed my oil gets consumed a little faster when it is old and dirty or when I ride in traffic.
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Jul 23, 2012 19:42
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High Protein posted:Post a picture of the dick fairing. Yeah, you should have kept the dick fairing on.
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Jul 23, 2012 23:43
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What I did to my bike over the last few weeks: Repsol fairings / engine rebuild (618cc big bore kit, 12.7:1 Comp. ratio, cams, dyno tune, Etc.)  Mirror block off plates: cut from aluminum sheet stock and painted  Hot bodies LED flush mount turn signals  Competition Werkes Integrated LED taillight / turn sugnals and custom tail chop / licence plate bracket.    Driven Racing 520 chain, -1/+2 sprocket kit, refinished the swing arm, and shortened the plastic chain guard  Love the way it turned out. Bike puts a huge grin on my face every time I ride it.
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Jul 23, 2012 23:47
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Not today, but last week I swapped the badly-squared Dunlop Qualifiers on my Shiver with Michelin Pilot Road 2s - felt a bit resentful about it because it needed the new tyres in order to pass its MOT (the fact that it was the front, not the rear, that was at the wear limit shows you how lovely the last year of riding has been to me) and wanted to put more Qualifiers on it. They didn't have them in stock but the guy was so enthusiastic about the Michelins, and I saw the wisdom of dual compounds, especially when he discounted them to £10 less than the Dunlops. At first I thought my reluctance was well-founded - the bike felt really weird, almost like the front tyre was flat - the Michelin front has a much rounder profile than the Dunlop, but even accounting for that it felt like I really had to muscle the bike into turns and take a lot more lean to take the same corner. Then I realised that once over it was loving rock-solid, mid-corner bumps didn't even hassle it (where the Dunlops - even new - got twitchy at the slightest provocation). Taking it out on Sunday on good roads it was a revelation, fast sweepers on constant throttle didn't give the constant feeling that the bike was just about to break away at the rear (a very common complaint for Shiver riders - it never is, there's just a weird "oh poo poo" feeling coming through the pegs). It's still slow as gently caress to turn in but it just feels so much better once it's in that it's like a brand new bike. Next on the list - little service (doesn't *need* it, but it's had a year of just short commuting trips thanks to the lovely British summer so far so fresh oil would almost certainly be welcome), and maybe finally get round to ordering the belly-pan and rear hugger that Aprilia unaccountably left off it, and maybe the rather tasty Aprilia Racing aluminium mirrors - http://www.motorbikecrazy.com/acatalog/Aprilia_Shiver_Accessories.html#a1577
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Jul 24, 2012 00:07
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Detroit117 posted:What I did to my bike over the last few weeks: Nice, I love Repsol CBRs. I've been thinking about getting the 600rr and getting Repsol fairings but they're expensive and drive the insurance up.
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Jul 24, 2012 05:11
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Frankston posted:Nice, I love Repsol CBRs. I've been thinking about getting the 600rr and getting Repsol fairings but they're expensive and drive the insurance up. Thanks. I have always wanted a bike with Repsol racing livery. I do not think after market fairings would affect insurance?? I picked up the fairings for around 600 bucks from here: http://www.fivestarfairings.com. The quality is alright, and you get a bolt kit. Finish is very nice, but you have to work to get the gaps between the panels even. I have to say, OEM stock fairings are much better. Extra pic  
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Jul 24, 2012 05:32
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Nice bike, but do you street ride it without mirrors?
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Jul 24, 2012 06:29
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Thanks, its always cool when someone compliments something you put a lot of time and effort in to. Did all the work myself, except for the machine work in the engine / dyno tune. Yeah, I do ride on the street with no mirrors. Know its illegal, but I have never been hassled about it. Really do not like mirrors. They can be distracting, have blind spots, and can mess with your depth perception. So I don't use them. I always look before I change lanes or something like that.
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Jul 24, 2012 09:23
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How is it with the engine mods? I've always been curious what it would be like to ride a really built 600.
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Jul 24, 2012 09:54
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Just say it's for looks, don't make up poo poo about how useless mirrors are...
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Jul 24, 2012 15:22
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n8r posted:Just say it's for looks, don't make up poo poo about how useless mirrors are... efb Even if you ~never~ use mirrors, why wouldn't you bolt on some small bar-end mirrors to avoid the legal hassle?
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Jul 24, 2012 15:49
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On a bike like that I'd like to be able to check for the presence of a police car before I power wheelie my way through the first three gears. Also for like, traffic awareness, I guess... EDIT: seriously though, do you track it Detroit117? 'cause as pretty as that bike is, it must be pretty frustrating/uncomfortable on the road unless you're some kind of animal. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Jul 24, 2012 |
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Jul 24, 2012 16:22
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ReelBigLizard posted:On a bike like that I'd like to be able to check for the presence of a police car before I power wheelie my way through the first three gears. Also for like, traffic awareness, I guess... In my case it's checking for enraged Daily Mail readers before power wheelieng through just one or two. :ridinglikeadong: Britain has lost its sense of fun.  As far as mirrors go, I find it very difficult to maintain situational awareness without riding into things in front of me without the aid of handy mirrors. But then I also wear a helmet at the risk of neck injury etc etc.
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Jul 24, 2012 17:06
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Saga posted:In my case it's checking for enraged Daily Mail readers before power wheelieng through just one or two. :ridinglikeadong: You know it's funny how that works, now whenever I ride my bicycle, I'm always looking for my mirrors or trying to turn on my blinker 
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Jul 24, 2012 21:22
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Gnaghi posted:How is it with the engine mods? I've always been curious what it would be like to ride a really built 600. So far, I am really enjoying it, feels very light and maneuverable. Messing with the engine and gearing, the bike has a much more usable power band. Basically traded fuel economy and top end for low end HP/Torque. It still makes less power than a comparable liter bike, but its also about 40 Lbs lighter. Bonus, it still looks like a stock 600rr (minus fairings), so it makes a great sleeper. n8r posted:Just say it's for looks, don't make up poo poo about how useless mirrors are... Tamir Lenk posted:Even if you ~never~ use mirrors, why wouldn't you bolt on some small bar-end mirrors to avoid the legal hassle? Never said mirrors are useless, said I don't like them. Then I told you why I do not like them. If you disagree, then great use them. What I like the most about modifications. You can make things exactly the way you want. Had the block off plates on my bike for almost 2 years. In that time I have been pulled over. Not once has something been said about them. ReelBigLizard posted:seriously though, do you track it Detroit117? 'cause as pretty as that bike is, it must be pretty frustrating/uncomfortable on the road unless you're some kind of animal. I do plan on tracking it. I live about 2 hours away from Barbers Motorsport park. Its not the worlds most comfortable bike, but its not bad. Saga posted:In my case it's checking for enraged Daily Mail readers before power wheelieng through just one or two. :ridinglikeadong: The bike does really encourage you to "do stupid", but I do my best to resist. You guys in Europe do have stricter laws  (except you get to lane split). If you guys are wondering, I do ride ATGATT.
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Jul 24, 2012 21:23
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SaNChEzZ posted:You know it's funny how that works, now whenever I ride my bicycle, I'm always looking for my mirrors or trying to turn on my blinker I do this too, now. Constantly looking down at where my left mirror would be, and after going around a corner I'm absentmindedly flicking the spot where I would be cancelling the turn signal. I'm considering getting a bar-end mirror to scratch that first itch.
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Jul 24, 2012 22:59
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On my bicycle, I'm all about trying to kill myself by way of moto-level control inputs.
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Jul 24, 2012 23:05
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clutchpuck posted:On my bicycle, I'm all about trying to kill myself by way of moto-level control inputs. I like finding yourself in a dodgy situation (closing gap, for example) and trying to use power to get out of it.
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Jul 24, 2012 23:09
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What, that wasn't always your strategy? Wimp 
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Jul 24, 2012 23:14
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Ugh, replacing the zinc-plated cheese bolts on my engine with nice high grade stainless capscrews and one of the water pump cover bolts snapped off. Looks like it had rusted some of the way, the other bolts on the pump cover were rusty too. The gasket is holding and I'm not loosing any coolant yet so I got some screw extractors and penetrating oil, Plus Gas, which I think is similar to kroil or PB-Blaster for you yanks. Soaking the bolt every few hours, going to try an extractor tonight but I'm scared I'm going to shatter an extractor in it and leave myself doubly hosed. Looked for a reverse twist drill bit to give that a try first but no joy
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Jul 25, 2012 15:07
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ReelBigLizard posted:Ugh, replacing the zinc-plated cheese bolts on my engine with nice high grade stainless capscrews and one of the water pump cover bolts snapped off. Looks like it had rusted some of the way, the other bolts on the pump cover were rusty too. The gasket is holding and I'm not loosing any coolant yet so I got some screw extractors and penetrating oil, Plus Gas, which I think is similar to kroil or PB-Blaster for you yanks. Soaking the bolt every few hours, going to try an extractor tonight but I'm scared I'm going to shatter an extractor in it and leave myself doubly hosed. Looked for a reverse twist drill bit to give that a try first but no joy Is there enough protruding to try cutting a slot and turning it out that way?
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Jul 25, 2012 15:21
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ReelBigLizard posted:Ugh, replacing the zinc-plated cheese bolts on my engine with nice high grade stainless capscrews and one of the water pump cover bolts snapped off. Looks like it had rusted some of the way, the other bolts on the pump cover were rusty too. The gasket is holding and I'm not loosing any coolant yet so I got some screw extractors and penetrating oil, Plus Gas, which I think is similar to kroil or PB-Blaster for you yanks. Soaking the bolt every few hours, going to try an extractor tonight but I'm scared I'm going to shatter an extractor in it and leave myself doubly hosed. Looked for a reverse twist drill bit to give that a try first but no joy You can order lefty drill bits on Amazon. Pick up a set and never use an EZ Out ever. THose things are loving horrible.
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Jul 25, 2012 15:30
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It's pretty much flush to the engine case, no slot cutting for me Hmm, what size of lefty bit for an M6 bolt, 4mm?
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Jul 25, 2012 15:38
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ReelBigLizard posted:It's pretty much flush to the engine case, no slot cutting for me When drilling out a bolt, I start small and work up. Use a center-punch to mark the starting point. Then use a bit that is a few steps down from the bolt size (maybe a 2mm for the M6) and drill. If it doesn't catch after you are into the bolt a ways, trade up to the next size. As the channel widens, the bolt will collapse into it and you can pick out the pieces, if the bolt itself doesn't thread out. Once that bitch is out, you can gently clean out the threads with an M6 tap. Is the bolt in a position where you can get some heat on it? A MAP or propane torch can help break the corrosion that is locking that bolt in there.
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Jul 25, 2012 15:53
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Tamir Lenk posted:When drilling out a bolt, I start small and work up. Use a center-punch to mark the starting point. Then use a bit that is a few steps down from the bolt size (maybe a 2mm for the M6) and drill. If it doesn't catch after you are into the bolt a ways, trade up to the next size. As the channel widens, the bolt will collapse into it and you can pick out the pieces, if the bolt itself doesn't thread out. You could also try heating the metal around the bolt (put some modelling clay or something over the stud to stop it heating up as much), obviously after it's cooled down from heating the stud up, but normally if it's absolutely flush getting differential heat on it can be really tricky. Also if you're going to try drilling the bolt out instead of using a proper stud extractor for gods sake make sure you go as slow as possible. I know someone who pretty much managed to weld the bolt into place by getting all macho with an 1800 rpm drill (although that was with a normal right-hand bit, which only made things worse)
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Jul 26, 2012 00:13
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