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wattershed posted:I think I'm trying to justify a way I could put this to use instead of selling a brand new piece of Blichmann hardware and being able to spend the profits on making another 10 gallons of beer. How much? My ghetto rig could use an upgrade.
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Oct 17, 2012 02:12
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So I finally got around to reading this article that was posted a few months ago http://www.mrmalty.com/late_hopping.php When they say to double or triple the amount of hops that you would've used, I assume that means that instead of doing something like this for an IPA with 2 hops: 60 min - 1 oz Hop A 30 min - 1 oz Hop B 15 min - 1 oz Hop B You would just do something like 60 min - Hop A (or just don't do a bittering hop) 20 min - 1 oz Hop B 15 min - 1 oz Hop B 10 min - 1 oz Hop B 5 min - 1 oz Hop B Would that be about right or should you be doing even more?
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Oct 17, 2012 03:55
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I recently brewed a Summer IPA recipe and it's been in the bottle for 2 weeks and well, I'm getting a funky taste from it. It was a partial mash recipe, and towards the end of the mash (last 10 minutes) I let the mash temperature get too hot, like 180*, which I then took it off the burner and got it back down into the 150* range. I followed the rest of the recipe and it went well. Now that I'm trying the beer, I'm getting a weird aftertaste from it. It tastes good at first, but it finishes bitter with an almost glue-ey taste is how I can describe it. Is this something that could have been caused by my screw-up during the mash, or would this be hop-related since it's a bitter thing? I can get the specifics of what I used in the recipe if that would help, I would just have to go dig it up.
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Oct 17, 2012 04:14
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Korwen posted:I recently brewed a Summer IPA recipe and it's been in the bottle for 2 weeks and well, I'm getting a funky taste from it. From what you describe, it could definitely be tannins extracted from the grain during the mash. I could see glue-like being a word for their effect. Think what your tongue feels like when you drink strong tea or a red wine; that's caused by tannins. They can get into your beer by letting the grain get too hot, which sounds like what happened to you. They could fade with age, but seeing as it's an IPA it's probably better drunk fresh regardless. edit: less spergy link Docjowles fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Oct 17, 2012 |
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Oct 17, 2012 04:32
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wattershed posted:I guess that's what's confused me when I read excerpts on forums about people using it to bottle straight from their bottling bucket without previously carbonating the beer. If I connected the beer gun to my CO2, purged the bottle with the gas, then (maybe by pushing the uncarbonated beer through the gun with an autosiphon?) filled the bottles, do you (or anyone else reading this) have a guess as to how long it would take for the CO2 to work its way into the bottled beer? While some gas could be absorbed into solution at the right temperatures, you won't have enough pressure to carbonate the beer to an appreciable level with the method you describe. Even if you could conceivably get the CO2 that would be present in the head space of the bottle to fully absorb into the beer, it wouldn't be enough to make a noticeable difference. You would also be creating a vacuum in the head space of the bottle, since the gas that was present there would now be in solution. Aside from the possibility that this would destroy the bottle if you managed to get this to happen, there would not be any way for the gas to stay in solution without dropping the temperature well below freezing (I think. I don't want to do the math on it right now). Carbonation in beer works by forcing CO2 into solution as a system of pressure and temperature. As more CO2 is added to the vessel (by the CO2 tank attached to the keg, or the yeast producing CO2 in a sealed bottle), pressure and temperature work together to allow the liquid to absorb the gas. If pressure is released, the gas will escape solution, making the beer go flat, as it were. The beer gun (along with racking cane\stopper setups, and counter pressure bottle fillers) works by creating a seal at the mouth of the bottle, and equalizing the pressure in the bottle to that in the keg. Since the beer in the keg has absorbed CO2, and that CO2 is being kept in solution (in part) by the pressure being exerted by the CO2 in the head space of the keg (and the CO2 tank attached), when you equalize the pressure between the bottle and keg, the gas in solution will not have a chance to be released. Make sense?
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Oct 17, 2012 07:36
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Whodat Smith-Jones posted:Would that be about right or should you be doing even more? You're on the right track, but you need to do the math to make sure you get the IBUs you want. For an example if you were doing a standard pale ale with an OG of 1.050 and 40 IBUs your hop schedule would look like this: 1 oz cascade 5.5%AA @ 60 min - 21.6 IBU 1 oz cascade 5.5%AA @ 15 min - 10.7 IBU 1 oz centennial 10%AA @ 5 min - 10 IBU So about half of your IBUs come from bittering, and the other half from the flavor and aroma additions. You've only got 2 oz of hops to give you your flavor and aroma. Now if you were to do that same beer with only late hop additions it would look like: 1 oz cascade 5.5%AA @ 20 min - 13.1 IBU 1 oz cascade 5.5%AA @ 15 min - 10.7 IBU 2 oz centennial 10%AA @ 5 min - 20 IBU So now you've got the same amount of IBUs, but you doubled the amount of hops for your flavor and aroma. This will give you much more flavor and aroma while giving you a smoother bitterness since you added the hops later in the boil.
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Oct 17, 2012 11:44
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Josh Wow posted:You're on the right track, but you need to do the math to make sure you get the IBUs you want. For an example if you were doing a standard pale ale with an OG of 1.050 and 40 IBUs your hop schedule would look like this: Makes sense. That article also says it might be a good idea to add a bittering hop at the beginning of the boil if you're making something higher than 50 IBU, which I plan on doing, so that the hop flavor isn't overpowering. Problem is I don't want it much higher than 60 IBU, so I'd be using something with such a low alpha acid that I'm wondering if it'd even be worth it. What say ye?
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Oct 17, 2012 14:09
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Whodat Smith-Jones posted:What say ye? I've done beers like this with 12 oz of hops all late additions and they've been great. It's a very intense flavor and aroma, but I've never had it be too much. The real reason I'd consider a 60 minute addition would be to save money, all those hops can add up pretty quick.
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Oct 17, 2012 17:37
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Josh Wow posted:I've done beers like this with 12 oz of hops all late additions and they've been great. It's a very intense flavor and aroma, but I've never had it be too much. The real reason I'd consider a 60 minute addition would be to save money, all those hops can add up pretty quick. I'll keep that in mind for the future. I don't think this one should be too expensive. I'm planning on using a hop with a higher alpha acid content, so I probably won't have more than 5 oz or so.
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Oct 17, 2012 17:45
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I forget who ran it last year, but is there interest in doing a Goon Holiday Homebrew Secret Santa (GHHSS) this year?
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Oct 17, 2012 18:29
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Midorka posted:The problem is that we used near 3/4 cup of corn sugar into 2 cups of water boiled for the carbonation. I'm worried that the beer will be overcarbonated or even gush since the amount was for 5 gallons. At around 3 weeks bottled my pumpkin batch started to get borderline overcarbonated (I lost about a gallon to solids too) so I refridgerated them immediately and that seemed to solve the problem / freeze carbonation where it was. Hopefully you have enough room to do that (if it becomes an issue). Just make sure you try a bottle every week or so.
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Oct 17, 2012 18:31
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j3rkstore posted:I forget who ran it last year, but is there interest in doing a Goon Holiday Homebrew Secret Santa (GHHSS) this year?
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Oct 17, 2012 18:41
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Daedalus Esquire posted:I'm in again! But I can't remember either. I would do this as well. Is it chill to personally ship libations via UPS or USPS?
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Oct 17, 2012 18:46
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hellfaucet posted:Is it chill to personally ship libations via UPS or USPS? Used to be UPS/FedEx only but this year Congress said it was okay to ship USPS.  Be wary of possible significant pressure changes and package accordingly.
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Oct 17, 2012 18:49
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Meh, we never shipped hooch in the past, just "yeast samples."
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Oct 17, 2012 18:53
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Splizwarf posted:Used to be UPS/FedEx only but this year Congress said it was okay to ship USPS. Ughghghh I spent $50 sending beers UPS from San Diego to the east coast 2 months ago
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Oct 17, 2012 19:31
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Do we have a citation on that? Because https://www.usps.com/ship/can-you-ship-it.htm still says no alcohol.
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Oct 17, 2012 19:34
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fullroundaction posted:At around 3 weeks bottled my pumpkin batch started to get borderline overcarbonated (I lost about a gallon to solids too) so I refridgerated them immediately and that seemed to solve the problem / freeze carbonation where it was. Thanks for the advice. I thought I read something about refrigeration inhibiting carbonation. I have a question for the thread, how long did it take you to feel comfortable formulating your own recipes? And as a second part, is there a guide somewhere that goes over the flavor of various malts and expected alcohol percentage per pound?
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Oct 17, 2012 19:40
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Midorka posted:Thanks for the advice. I thought I read something about refrigeration inhibiting carbonation. How to Brew has some incomplete tables on grains and hops and whatnot and a crash course on recipes if you can dig the engineer tone its written in and the old edition is free. Otherwise next steps are Designing Great Beers (boring as grass growing) or Radical Brewing. Comfort with actually making recipes is a personal thing. I only did a couple kits before doing my own steeped grain extract batches based on How to Brew. If you understand the basics of the underlying bits of brewing you will be hard pressed to make something bad. If you don't, its still pretty hard to make something undrinkable.
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Oct 17, 2012 19:50
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zedprime posted:Designing Great Beers (boring as grass growing) True, but it's also filled with great information about what goes into recipes. It would be like reading The Joy of Cooking.
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Oct 17, 2012 19:57
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Bad Munki posted:Do we have a citation on that? Because https://www.usps.com/ship/can-you-ship-it.htm still says no alcohol. Hmm, false alarm I guess. Looks like it made it through one side (Senate) but I can't find anything after that. Here's an article about the bill's Senate passage: http://www.nytimes.com/2012/04/26/us/politics/senate-passes-bill-to-overhaul-postal-service.html?_r=0 Here's the bill: http://www.govtrack.us/congress/bills/112/s1789/text Specifically: quote:SEC. 405. SHIPPING OF WINE, BEER, AND DISTILLED SPIRITS. But I can't find anything about a House version so I guess it's either still on the table or died waiting? 
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Oct 17, 2012 20:01
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Jo3sh posted:True, but it's also filled with great information about what goes into recipes. It would be like reading The Joy of Cooking. It is the book I hate to love to recommend. I've only leafed through friends copies and can't stand it but understand why it is an awesome next step for someone going beyond the starter books.
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Oct 17, 2012 20:05
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Splizwarf posted:Hmm, false alarm I guess. Looks like it made it through one side (Senate) but I can't find anything after that. Here's an article about the bill's Senate passage: I don't think it even matters, since you probably don't want to tell them its alcohol anyways, because then you'd have to: 1) deal with verifying the receiver isn't underage 2) worry about if you're shipping to a state that doesn't allow alcohol shipments to residents ( PA, TX, MA, UT, MD, DE, AR, OK, MT, ME, SD, KY, AK, HI, WV or MS) So bottom line even if USPS allowed alcohol, you might still be lying about it.
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Oct 17, 2012 20:11
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"live yeast cultures" fragile, keep
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Oct 17, 2012 20:12
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zedprime posted:It is the book I hate to love to recommend. I've only leafed through friends copies and can't stand it but understand why it is an awesome next step for someone going beyond the starter books. It's certainly not something I would read cover to cover. I use it to get an idea of what goes well in a recipe for a given style. It doesn't even have recipes in it, per se; it is really an analysis of what people have used in their recipes, where those recipes have done well in competitions.
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Oct 17, 2012 20:42
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Just got home from work expecting a kit only to discover my fiance did me a favor and froze my liquid yeast packet in the freezer.  e: so I've let this Wyeast packet thaw out now... is it salvageable? It was definitely slushy and chunks of solid frozen yeast had developed in the corners. I want to say it was in the freezer maybe an hour and a half? I was planning on making a starter for this batch anyhow. hellfaucet fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Oct 17, 2012 |
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Oct 17, 2012 22:35
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Imasalmon posted:
Remarkably, and completely, yes! Thank you very much!
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Oct 17, 2012 22:58
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Jacobey000 posted:How much? My ghetto rig could use an upgrade. It seems like you can grab them for around $70-75 before shipping; would you do $70 shipped, assuming you're in the US? We can take this to PMs if you have them...I'm on vacation right now and don't want to explore the Awful Android app's ability to do PMs so a response might take a few days outside of the thread.
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Oct 17, 2012 23:02
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For those of you that keg, how do you carb that little extra beer that you end up bottling? I have been using those carb tabs for their convenience, but they are pretty expensive. Any other ideas?
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Oct 17, 2012 23:52
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I just put it in another keg and drink that one first. Partly-full kegs carb up fast.
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Oct 18, 2012 00:44
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Does anyone have tips for brewing a nice cider? I'd like to get one going in time for Thanksgiving this year. Sweet Mead yeast was recommended a few pages back, but I'm unclear about sourcing the juice: can I just buy jugs of fresh cider from the grocery? Does it have to be boiled like hops do when making wort for beer?
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Oct 18, 2012 00:55
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hellfaucet posted:Just got home from work expecting a kit only to discover my fiance did me a favor and froze my liquid yeast packet in the freezer. No, the relationship is beyond salvaging. She straight hosed with your beer. Call the wedding off. The yeast might pull through, though. Make a starter and see what happens.
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Oct 18, 2012 01:14
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MixMasterMalaria posted:Does anyone have tips for brewing a nice cider? I'd like to get one going in time for Thanksgiving this year. Sweet Mead yeast was recommended a few pages back, but I'm unclear about sourcing the juice: can I just buy jugs of fresh cider from the grocery? Does it have to be boiled like hops do when making wort for beer? I have just used whatever juice I can find that tastes good and is not terribly expensive. I literally use juice I get from Costco many times. Not-from-concentrate juice is quite nice, but regular old Tree Top works fine. Look at the ingredients. If it says ascorbic acid, that's fine, it's just vitamin C. Anything sorbate is to be avoided if possible, as it will interfere with yeast reproduction. Sanitize a fermenter. No need to boil the juice, pour it in straight from the bottle. If it's already been pasteurized, no further treatment is needed, but if you are using farmstand juice, you may want to sulfite it. You can add sugar if you want, up to about 1 pound of sugar per gallon of juice (1 added pound per gallon will make a VERY strong cider). Pour in your Sweet Mead yeast, button up the fermenter with an airlock, and leave it to ferment.
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Oct 18, 2012 01:23
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Paladine_PSoT posted:No, the relationship is beyond salvaging. She straight hosed with your beer. Call the wedding off. Wow.  I'll smack it and see what happens tonight.
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Oct 18, 2012 01:45
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Jo3sh posted:I have just used whatever juice I can find that tastes good and is not terribly expensive. I literally use juice I get from Costco many times. How long does it take for a cidar to be ready to serve from start of fermentation? Having a Thanksgiving party, not sure if it is too late if I order the yeast and throw it in Sunday/Monday.
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Oct 18, 2012 02:02
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zerox147o posted:How long does it take for a cidar to be ready to serve from start of fermentation? Having a Thanksgiving party, not sure if it is too late if I order the yeast and throw it in Sunday/Monday. If you start now, it will be ready, but a bit young. I generally do 4 weeks in the fermenter, then package. With T-day five weeks away, you can just squeak it in, I think. Definitely keep the added sugar down to a few ounces per gallon if you're going to do that at all. It will be drinkable for Thanksgiving, but will likely continue to improve for months.
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Oct 18, 2012 02:24
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A serving tip especially for young cider: if you or friends don't like it that dry, serve it in glasses rather than bottles and make some simple syrup to mix in to taste.
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Oct 18, 2012 02:52
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Use juice or concentrate instead of simple syrup, and it's even better. Recently, I had a cider come out strong (~11%) and dry, so I just kegged it at a higher carbonation level and bought a variety of juices to mix it with. Cran-apple was my favorite.
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Oct 18, 2012 03:06
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Cider will benefit from yeast nutrient just like mead. About 1 g Fermaid-K or whatever nutrient you can find and 1 g DAP per gallon, once or twice during primary.
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Oct 18, 2012 04:50
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Killer robot posted:A serving tip especially for young cider: if you or friends don't like it that dry, serve it in glasses rather than bottles and make some simple syrup to mix in to taste. Also, cider mixed with spiced beer tastes like apple pie. Pie that makes you fall down.
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Oct 18, 2012 07:03
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