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I've never had a car that didn't have different color dipstick handles (red for trans, yellow or black for oil). Is this not a thing anymore? These were 80s/90s cars.
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Nov 13, 2012 03:36
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Godholio posted:I've never had a car that didn't have different color dipstick handles (red for trans, yellow or black for oil). Is this not a thing anymore? These were 80s/90s cars. He meant the oil and the atf were the same color I think.
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Nov 13, 2012 04:55
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Poisonlizard posted:He meant the oil and the atf were the same color I think. That's what he meant. But on the note of dip stick handles. On my subaru, the engine oil, ATF, and front diff gear oil handles are all yellow. The engine oil fill cap is yellow as well. It ends up with the wrong oil in the wrong place quite often, there are a lot of questions on subaru boards like: "I just put 2qt gear oil in my transmission, now it doesn't work"
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Nov 13, 2012 04:58
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I just look for where the tube goes. This is why I don't own cars built after 1980.
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Nov 13, 2012 05:16
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Would it be that easy to screw up the ATF vs. motor oil dipstick on very many cars if you knew anything at all about cars? On my E34, the oil dipstick is very obviously located on the engine and the ATF dipstick is way off in the corner of the engine bay, screwed to the top of the reservoir and is only like 2-3 inches long.
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Nov 13, 2012 08:12
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DixielandDelight posted:Not to get off topic here but I was rotating my wheels last night on my TJ when this happened.  When used with the factory wheels the bottom part goes through (holding the wheel in the right place), and the washer is what actually presses against the wheel. The problem starts when I get some aftermarket wheels - the factory nuts can actually work because the very bottom of the nut is tapered, but the contact area is about half what it should be. Most normal lug nuts are way too short for the extremely long studs, so I get these:  All good right? Nope, because the thread doesn't go all the way to the end of the nut (it stops about 1/2" short), and I only find this out when I spin the stud with the nut on very tightly (the stud managed to cut about 1/4" worth of thread before it gave way). The rear of the stud was not accessible in any meaningful way. Fuzz1111 fucked around with this message at 09:07 on Nov 13, 2012 |
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Nov 13, 2012 08:16
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Poisonlizard posted:He meant the oil and the atf were the same color I think. Yeah, I got that, but I should've quoted someone...I was actually replying to the multiple people who checked the wrong dipstick. My bad. Edit: chrisgt posted:That's what he meant. That's seriously dumb.
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Nov 13, 2012 09:21
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FIRST TIME posted:Would it be that easy to screw up the ATF vs. motor oil dipstick on very many cars if you knew anything at all about cars? On my E34, the oil dipstick is very obviously located on the engine and the ATF dipstick is way off in the corner of the engine bay, screwed to the top of the reservoir and is only like 2-3 inches long. In my case it was a FWD car so the dipsticks were in basically the same position either side of the engine, in a car I'd never looked under the bonnet of before. (I'd actually gotten it right first go, but then got confused)
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Nov 13, 2012 10:15
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2ndclasscitizen posted:In my case it was a FWD car so the dipsticks were in basically the same position either side of the engine, in a car I'd never looked under the bonnet of before. (I'd actually gotten it right first go, but then got confused) I think I'm confused anyway because I was thinking of the "ATF" dipstick that's actually for the power steering. :edit: Yeah, my car uses a "lifetime" ATF fluid. So no dipstick. Edmund Sparkler fucked around with this message at 11:22 on Nov 13, 2012 |
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Nov 13, 2012 11:20
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Having spent an enjoayble week reading this thread from scratch, it's only fair that I should add some pics  photos are of mu 1987 E30 325i which broke down about 2 months ago. I was in 10mph traffic when I started to hear a noise that didnt sound great, it changed with engine speed and sounded like a belt had come loose and was hitting the engine undertray or similar, it then stopped making the noise, so I carried on and looked for somewhere to pull over, but while I was stopped and waiting to turn, the engine just cut out. popping the bonnet showed bits of belt all over the place, not good. after being recovered home, I started stripping the engine, first look was this:  the cam belt was the cause of the noise, but hadn't actually snapped. On checking, it had slipped a few teeth, presumably due to one of the pieces that flew off being caught inbetween the belt and the pully, making it slip. so I optimistically put a new belt on, timed it up and tried to start it, which sadly didn't work :/ so popped the head off:  shiny bits on pistons :/  not sure that should be like that ... So, I've been doing an hour or so when I have time stripping the head and fitting a new set of valves. old valves with one new one:  interestingly, the inlet valves don't look damaged at all, but both they and the pistons are marked, so at the very least they might have been bent out of shape then bent back again, so are getting replaced as a matter of course.
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Nov 13, 2012 11:21
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Every car I've owned required a safari to find the transmission dipstick and fill point 
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Nov 14, 2012 04:16
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FIRST TIME posted:Would it be that easy to screw up the ATF vs. motor oil dipstick on very many cars if you knew anything at all about cars? On my E34, the oil dipstick is very obviously located on the engine and the ATF dipstick is way off in the corner of the engine bay, screwed to the top of the reservoir and is only like 2-3 inches long. You could completely gently caress that up on an auto z31. The filler cap and the oil filter are on the opposite side of the block from the oil dipstick, and the atf dipstick sticks up right beside them.
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Nov 14, 2012 04:34
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thebigcow posted:Every car I've owned required a safari to find the transmission dipstick and fill point My favorites are the ones where you need to do that to find the battery terminals, and then the battery's actually hidden away where you can't get at it and there's some random remote terminal sticking up out of some odd place under the hood.
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Nov 14, 2012 04:34
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thebigcow posted:Every car I've owned required a safari to find the transmission dipstick and fill point My mom's jeep liberty doesn't even have a transmission dipstick, and the fluid change interval for regular use is 120,000 miles or 10 years. If you want to check your transmission fluid level, you have to buy a $72 dipstick, and a computer tool to check the transmission temperature to compare against the gauge on the dipstick.
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Nov 14, 2012 04:54
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Someone on another board I admin posted this today: "So me and a buddy just loaded a V6 Camaro with a 150 shot of nitrous"  Rod #6 wasn't terribly excited about the whole ordeal. 
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Nov 14, 2012 04:59
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My old Sunbird, the dipstick was about an inch and a half long. Had to dig down through the mess of wire looms below the distributor cap until you could find the lever, turn it and pull out that stubby little bastard. Bought the car and the entire engine and tranny were covered in grease, so I didn't know the dipstick existed for a couple years (my first car).
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Nov 14, 2012 05:00
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Phanatic posted:My favorites are the ones where you need to do that to find the battery terminals, and then the battery's actually hidden away where you can't get at it and there's some random remote terminal sticking up out of some odd place under the hood.  You mean like this?  It leads to some pretty hilarious stuff like the time somebody tried to force open my computer compartment because it was the only thing under the hood that looked remotely like somewhere a battery could go.
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Nov 14, 2012 07:13
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thebigcow posted:Every car I've owned required a safari to find the transmission dipstick and fill point Or you may have something like the old E30's with a manual transmission. You check the fluid level by removing the fill plug in the side of the transmission and sticking in your finger. If it is to the fill plug you're good, if not add some...to the plug which is flush or slightly above the floor pan of the car.
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Nov 14, 2012 15:14
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NitroSpazzz posted:Or you may have something like the old E30's with a manual transmission. You check the fluid level by removing the fill plug in the side of the transmission and sticking in your finger. If it is to the fill plug you're good, if not add some...to the plug which is flush or slightly above the floor pan of the car. The biggest failure of the E30 is not this. The biggest failure of the E30 is the fact that the brittle aluminum oilpan is the lowest part of the car.
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Nov 14, 2012 17:53
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That's how you check MTF on every BMW ever. To fill, either run a hose from the engine compartment down past the bellhousing and fill from above or use a pump like a civilized tech. The biggest failure of the E30 is those stupid plastic trim rings around the door handles.
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Nov 14, 2012 18:21
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The Rocket Salad posted:That's how you check MTF on every BMW ever. To fill, either run a hose from the engine compartment down past the bellhousing and fill from above or use a pump like a civilized tech. I have an intact set 
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Nov 14, 2012 18:31
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The Rocket Salad posted:The biggest failure of the E30 is those stupid plastic trim rings around the door handles. My friend bought an E30 at work. I pulled up in mine and opened my door and looked down and saw the plastic trim ring broken in half and had a moment of panic before I realized it was his, and not mine. Beach Bum posted:I have an intact set Just one set?
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Nov 14, 2012 18:33
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Lightbulb Out posted:My friend bought an E30 at work. I pulled up in mine and opened my door and looked down and saw the plastic trim ring broken in half and had a moment of panic before I realized it was his, and not mine. Mine are still in brand new condition after 8 years of ownership.  If you want to talk about horrible E30 failures, lets talk subframe bushings and center support bearings.
ACEofsnett fucked around with this message at 18:41 on Nov 14, 2012 |
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Nov 14, 2012 18:35
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I only have one E30 coupe, I don't take more than I need. 
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Nov 14, 2012 18:45
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How about the balljoints that you apparently have to reach through the entire suspension to reach? Trans fill plugs under the floorboards are why I bought a barrel pump... and also why I know how to remove my shift tower from the trans in under 5 minutes. I usually pull the fill plug, pull the shifter boot and shift tower, and fill it through the shift tower until it starts coming out the fill plug. Put it all back together and I'm done.
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Nov 14, 2012 18:48
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ACEofsnett posted:If you want to talk about horrible E30 failures, lets talk subframe bushings and center support bearings. Or pictures.
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Nov 14, 2012 19:02
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Beach Bum posted:I only have one E30 coupe, I don't take more than I need. Only one? ACEofsnett posted:If you want to talk about horrible E30 failures, lets talk subframe bushings and center support bearings. I don't know what you're talking about. 
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Nov 14, 2012 19:08
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Lightbulb Out posted:Only one?  I will have my E30M3 one day
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Nov 14, 2012 23:17
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This is the motor from a 2000 Civic that the seller insisted that it "just needs a new headgasket" Knew when it was purchased that it needed a new motor so that wasn't a problem at least.    
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Nov 15, 2012 06:55
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Beach Bum posted:I only have one E30 coupe, I don't take more than I need. I have this dilemma every time I go to the junk yard. The parts are so stupid cheap that I just want to buy like 5 extra of whatever it is I'm looking for but I don't want to be a dick to everyone else who has the same car as me.
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Nov 15, 2012 07:40
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Not mine. Friend works in a shop.
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Nov 15, 2012 18:57
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Das Volk posted:Crossposting this - the brake caliper bolt backed out, caliper hit the wheel, tearing the entire assembly out. Horrible E30 failure (torquing the caliper bolts without Loc-Tite can be perilous...)
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Nov 15, 2012 19:03
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 Transmission on my free parts forester
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Nov 19, 2012 15:24
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 My turbo from my TDI
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Nov 19, 2012 16:03
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CommieGIR posted:
what'd you feed it
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Nov 19, 2012 16:06
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amenenema posted:what'd you feed it One of the plastic tabs that retains the hose on the turbo inlet broke and it sucked in debris from the leaks around the loose hose. Surprisingly, I never knew this until I had to remove the head to replace a leaking valve seal...it still had the same boost pressure.
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Nov 19, 2012 16:09
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Obviously the serrated blades enable better chewing of air.
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Nov 19, 2012 22:04
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A friend of mine has been running a Garret t25 that looks like it ingested a bird for years, it sounds... different but boosts just fine despite something smashing into it at some point.
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Nov 19, 2012 22:15
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SimulatedWoodgrain posted:A friend of mine has been running a Garret t25 that looks like it ingested a bird for years, it sounds... different but boosts just fine despite something smashing into it at some point. I'm hesitant to keep running it, even though the TDI has 280,000 miles its a damned fun and reliable car, I'd rather not risk a turbo self-destruct even though it still works. That, and I'm planning on getting a used turbo and having this one rebuilt. The cold side is the only side damaged, the hot side is undamaged and shows no sign of being unbalanced.
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Nov 19, 2012 23:09
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In the continuing teardown of my track car, after we found this in the gearbox... ...we decided to check the $3000 twin-plate carbon clutch to make sure it was ok  uhoh  I would *really* like to know what failed first....
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Nov 20, 2012 02:40
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