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8 Warjacks and a shitload of infantry later, I've worn out the collet on my pin vise, and it won't hold a bit now. Anyone have any kind words for this dremel? http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-1100-N-25-7-2-Volt-Lithium-Ion/dp/B002BAHF7I/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1353741785&sr=1-1 It looks like it would be perfect for this kind of work especially because it goes as low as 5000 rpm.
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Nov 24, 2012 08:24
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signalnoise posted:8 Warjacks and a shitload of infantry later, I've worn out the collet on my pin vise, and it won't hold a bit now. Anyone have any kind words for this dremel? http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-1100-N-25-7-2-Volt-Lithium-Ion/dp/B002BAHF7I/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1353741785&sr=1-1 It looks like a fine device... For a lady! In reality the pistol grip Dremels and other such rotary devices are the style of choice for this thread. In retrospect, I'd have gotten one in that style as well rather than the stick-blender style I have now. No first hand experience with that model, but it is a Dremel; those things are typically quality.
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Nov 24, 2012 09:13
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After I've hard many good things about the Winsor & Newton brushes, I've been trying to get some - with no luck here in germany. I'm going to order some stuff from Wayland games soon, are any of their brushes any good? If so, which ones (and which sizes) should I get for fine detail work? They've got Kolinski sables, Army Painter and FP3 Brushes.
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Nov 24, 2012 10:37
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Luebbi posted:After I've hard many good things about the Winsor & Newton brushes, I've been trying to get some - with no luck here in germany. I'm going to order some stuff from Wayland games soon, are any of their brushes any good? If so, which ones (and which sizes) should I get for fine detail work? They've got Kolinski sables, Army Painter and FP3 Brushes. I'm desperately looking for quality brushes too. Best ones they have in retail in my country is GW, and they're often poo poo. Was hoping Wayland had some decent brushes. Btw, I've only tried the Army Painter brushes and I didn't find them to be very good, but do anyone have any experience with FP3 brushes or the Kolinsky Sable? Edit: Kolinsky Sable is, of course, Wayland's own brush brand. Just found out that is the name of the brush hairs. Fish and Chimps fucked around with this message at 12:19 on Nov 24, 2012 |
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Nov 24, 2012 12:12
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You can get series 7s in Germany via Battlefield Berlin for sure. You may also want to look into Raphael 8404s, which are the Series 7's main competitors in the field of mini painters gushing about them, and are made in France, which might make them easier to source at a local art shop.
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Nov 24, 2012 12:48
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I'm trying to do some NMM for this month's Oath but it isn't really working. At least I like how my Joan of Ark conversion looks otherwise.  Working on some Iron Warriors Bikers with a Biker Chaos Sorceror. They are supposed to be Slaanesh themed but, eh.  The champion has a mildly mutated mouth.  And the Sorceror has a big ole head full of eyes.   I've been converting some more bloodbowl teams lately and just finished painting a Khorne Daemons team. I can pretty much only play them with my group but It was fun building the team.      Also some hobgoblins for my chaos dwarfs based on a conversion idea I saw on the net.   
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Nov 24, 2012 15:55
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stabbington posted:You can get series 7s in Germany via Battlefield Berlin for sure. You may also want to look into Raphael 8404s, which are the Series 7's main competitors in the field of mini painters gushing about them, and are made in France, which might make them easier to source at a local art shop. I'm hardly a star painter, but I have to say I like my Raphael 8404s.
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Nov 24, 2012 18:32
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signalnoise posted:8 Warjacks and a shitload of infantry later, I've worn out the collet on my pin vise, and it won't hold a bit now. Anyone have any kind words for this dremel? http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-1100-N-25-7-2-Volt-Lithium-Ion/dp/B002BAHF7I/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1353741785&sr=1-1 I have one. It's not got the power of the corded models, but it's more than adequate for mans. The battery lasts a decent amount of time and recharges pretty quickly. I really love the ergonomics of the design, since it's really comfortable to use and do precise work with.
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Nov 24, 2012 19:27
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Managed to get a little work done. I hope to pick up the pace somewhat in the near future. I'm starting 4 new armatures. 2 more Bundeswehr and 2 mystery troops.  All 20mm.  2/5 has his base.  The base for the G36 of 3/5.  New armature extraveganza.  A fruit fly chilling out on 3/5
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Nov 24, 2012 22:42
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Aranan posted:I'm hardly a star painter, but I have to say I like my Raphael 8404s. I've been using Escoda brushes lately and for an amateur like myself they seem every bit as good as my Series 7's (and they're a bit cheaper). Also, I've had a few Series 7's lately that fork tongue no matter how well I care for them.
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Nov 24, 2012 23:01
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signalnoise posted:8 Warjacks and a shitload of infantry later, I've worn out the collet on my pin vise, and it won't hold a bit now. Anyone have any kind words for this dremel? http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-1100-N-25-7-2-Volt-Lithium-Ion/dp/B002BAHF7I/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1353741785&sr=1-1 I've used that model for years, it's great. Full power will melt, rather than drill/grind, plastic but it's lower settings are perfect for GW plastic or resin and the higher settings will go through pewter with no problems. Just be sure to hold on to pewter pieces with a tool so you don't burn your fingers. That poo poo heats up quick.
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Nov 24, 2012 23:24
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Just finished my Orks for this months Oath: First up, my nob with NMM mirror shades for the Kaptin's Log.   And da Boyz...       
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Nov 25, 2012 03:59
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The yellow eyes kinda blend in with the grey skin tone a bit too much. Maybe try reddish purple, it'll give you a much higher contrast and work well with the bright green and yellow detailing. Other than that, those orks are loving killer.
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Nov 25, 2012 05:24
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It doesn't show up in the photos but the eyes are red with yellow pupils. My lighting only gets the yellow to show up though 
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Nov 25, 2012 05:26
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I went back a few pages and didn't see anything about these two: and  They're on sale right now and I'm wondering if either would be a good purchase. Here is my situation: over a year ago I rescued a kitten, which showed it's gratitude by knocking all of my Warmachine mans off their shelf, destroying a good chunk of both painted and unpainted figures, as well as my desire to paint or play. I want to change that. And I want to change that by buying something that will make my work both quicker and more consistent. The Sotar looks like a nicer brush, dual action/gravity fed, but it comes with only a fine tip and seems to be geared towards that. The 306-1 universal seems to be... well... universal. Dual action, can do gravity or siphon feed, and can adjust the spray. I'm leaning towards this one since it seems to be a good workhorse and may be a bit more lenient on me. I'm figuring to do this piece by piece and have everything by the new year.
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Nov 25, 2012 05:33
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Those look like little paint buckets. My brushes have 5-7cc. You might have some issues having to mix up the same basecoat over and over. Edit: It's not just for the volume of paint, but also for when you sweep back and forth you don't want the paint to splash out with those small sides. WhiteOutMouse fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Nov 25, 2012 |
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Nov 25, 2012 06:07
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will blow your mind.
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Yeah, I've got a Paasche Talon, which has a .4oz cup, and it's waaaay bigger than both of those but also waaaaaay small for basecoating more than 10 Marines at a time. 
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Nov 25, 2012 06:39
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What is the purpose of mixing medium, etc.. when it comes to mixing your own paint combinations for later use?
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Nov 25, 2012 07:07
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Mixing medium (also sold as matte medium in art stores) is the acrylic binder in standard water-based acrylic paints (which are an emulsion of water, pigment, and binder). Adding it increases transparency while maintaining the consistency of the paint. Drying retarder tends to be glycerin-based, or just glycerin, and delays the evaporation of water from paint mixed with it. Flow aids are surfactants like you find in dish soap, which decrease the surface tension of the water in the paint mixture, causing it to flow into cracks more easily. In general, flow aid should be mixed 1:10 with water if you're using it to thin paint . Retarder should be no more than 1:4 retarder:paint to prevent it from glooping things up too badly, and will probably produce an odd glossiness until you get to about 1:10. Matte medium (and other mediums like glazing medium (typically satin, sometimes gloss)) can be added willy-nilly depending on how transparent you want your paint. Useful up to about 20:1 medium:paint, in my experience.
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Nov 25, 2012 07:33
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     Spraypaint steps are done! Tomorrow is airbrush touchups, highllights, and then Minwax Polyshades (Pecan Satin, or Antique Walnut). Not sure on my stain selection yet.
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Nov 25, 2012 07:41
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stabbington posted:useful poo poo Is there anything I can add to a wash to reduce its surface tension? Alcohol maybe?
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Nov 25, 2012 08:02
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signalnoise posted:Is there anything I can add to a wash to reduce its surface tension? Alcohol maybe? That is what flow-aid does. Adding alcohol will significantly change how your paint behaves, but sometimes it is what you want. It makes it more washy.
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Nov 25, 2012 08:03
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I don't know how I read that multiple times and missed that specific phrase
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Nov 25, 2012 08:15
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How would you guys go about darkening an already dark brown? Just add black or a dark blue or something else? The colour is Reaper "muddy brown" if that helps.Luebbi posted:After I've hard many good things about the Winsor & Newton brushes, I've been trying to get some - with no luck here in germany. I'm going to order some stuff from Wayland games soon, are any of their brushes any good? If so, which ones (and which sizes) should I get for fine detail work? They've got Kolinski sables, Army Painter and FP3 Brushes. I just got mine from amazon. Lots of dealers in the UK that ship to the rest of the EU at very good prices. I think it was here: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Winsor-Newton-Series-Kolinsky-Colour/dp/B0013E68TO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1353835835&sr=8-1 And yeah, they ARE amazing (or conformation bias is stronger than I'm willing to admit).
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Nov 25, 2012 10:32
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Now you need to make two more of these and put em on warbikes. Gorkamorka Ork Highway Patrol? GOHP *cue kicking theme song* EDIT:I'm trying to say that it would be really amazing, and I sold all my modeling stuff a long time ago or I would do it myself.
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Nov 25, 2012 11:14
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Crosspostin' from the Oath thread. Finished Ork Nob with Waaagh! banner.     The tarnished bronze/coppper on the banner is done without metals, just layers of paint washed over it.  
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Nov 25, 2012 12:20
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HardCoil posted:
Which sizes would I need?
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Nov 25, 2012 13:07
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I bought a 00 and a 1 to get a feel for it. I think I'm going to get a smaller and a larger one at some point, but they are a really good startining point.
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Nov 25, 2012 13:32
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HardCoil posted:I bought a 00 and a 1 to get a feel for it. I think I'm going to get a smaller and a larger one at some point, but they are a really good startining point. Ok thanks. I'll order some up next month.
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Nov 25, 2012 13:41
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If you're on ebay/Paypal, this is the seller I've gotten all my W&N brushes from http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Curtisward-Ltd/Winsor-Newton-Series-7-Sable-/_i.html?_fsub=2594987015&_sid=93678805&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 Under £6, posted, so probably 8 euros each?
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Nov 25, 2012 13:56
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signalnoise posted:Is there anything I can add to a wash to reduce its surface tension? Alcohol maybe? Acrylic floor polish, or some water with one drop of dish detergent added.
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Nov 25, 2012 14:42
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krushgroove posted:If you're on ebay/Paypal, this is the seller I've gotten all my W&N brushes from http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Curtisward-Ltd/Winsor-Newton-Series-7-Sable-/_i.html?_fsub=2594987015&_sid=93678805&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 Well, I get it at around 6£ + shipment of 3.5£. Still about 5£ cheaper than amazon if I order 2. Thanks.
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Nov 25, 2012 14:45
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WhiteOutMouse posted:Those look like little paint buckets. My brushes have 5-7cc. You might have some issues having to mix up the same basecoat over and over. BlackIronHeart posted:Yeah, I've got a Paasche Talon, which has a .4oz cup, and it's waaaay bigger than both of those but also waaaaaay small for basecoating more than 10 Marines at a time. Well the Universal can be set up as siphon feed like so:  I want to say those are 3/4oz jars, which is a grip of paint.
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Nov 25, 2012 17:29
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How in the world do you paint a miniature with an airbrush? Wouldn't it be basically impossible to do without loving up details? I suppose this is just for big flat surfaces or something, or for base layers?
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Nov 25, 2012 17:32
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How else are you gonna paint whizzards on the side of all your Rhinos?
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Nov 25, 2012 17:33
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signalnoise posted:How in the world do you paint a miniature with an airbrush? Wouldn't it be basically impossible to do without loving up details? I suppose this is just for big flat surfaces or something, or for base layers? I would still use a brush for details and fine work. But after painting an entire Khador Battlegroup by hand I know there has to be a better way. I just want to be able to do do big flat areas, or an entire units armor, quickly and consistently. Devlan Mud posted:How else are you gonna paint whizzards on the side of all your Rhinos? I'ma build a Stormstrider with Nemo painted on the side.
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Nov 25, 2012 17:41
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signalnoise posted:How in the world do you paint a miniature with an airbrush? Wouldn't it be basically impossible to do without loving up details? I suppose this is just for big flat surfaces or something, or for base layers? Like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PIFtCipLpA
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Nov 25, 2012 17:54
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I really like Les' style, if only for the fact that he never limits himself technique-wise. If he's got the tool for it, he's gonna use it every time.
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Nov 25, 2012 18:59
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Just finished my first Rhino.       I was completely heartbroken when my brush-on matte varnish frosted. Luckily I could reduce the damage with a layer of thinned gloss. The interior haven't received much love, I know, but I couldn't be bothered to put that much effort into the part that'll be seen the least.
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Nov 25, 2012 19:30
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It seems insane, but brush on some olive oil and it will fix the frosting. I frosted my deff dread and the oil fixed it right up.
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Nov 25, 2012 19:49
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