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I have this one and the rubber dried out after about 4 or 5 years and it now leaks from the cracks in the rubber and the gauge is like 20psi off and not really useful for anything. http://www.harborfreight.com/dual-chuck-tire-inflator-with-dial-gauge-68271.html I have like two other types of inflators from them because the first kind I got (pencil kind) also sucked rear end. TLDR: Youre prob better off getting a not poo poo tire inflator.
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Dec 2, 2012 14:28
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 22:10 |
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get a Milton.
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Dec 2, 2012 16:50
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Blue Point/Snap-On's TPGDL1000 is the best Gauge/Inflator I've used. Been using it for about 8 months now, every single day, on 5-6 cars a day. It still works absolutely perfectly.
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Dec 2, 2012 17:53
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This isn't strictly automotive, but I need a cable puller/come-along for installing tension wire in fencing and eventually dragging my compact car out when it inevitably gets stuck in ice/snow. Any suggestions for an inexpensive model, or is "whatever is cheap at the hardware store" OK? The ones at harbor freight have lovely reviews, and I'd like it to last at least a few dozen uses.
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Dec 2, 2012 18:12
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Loucks posted:This isn't strictly automotive, but I need a cable puller/come-along for installing tension wire in fencing and eventually dragging my compact car out when it inevitably gets stuck in ice/snow. Any suggestions for an inexpensive model, or is "whatever is cheap at the hardware store" OK? The ones at harbor freight have lovely reviews, and I'd like it to last at least a few dozen uses.
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Dec 2, 2012 18:20
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InitialDave posted:In all honesty, they seem to be much of a muchness. I have a £20 one for random stuff, and it does work, though moving a properly-stuck vehicle using one would be no fun whatsoever. Great, thanks. I don't anticipate ever being "properly stuck," but it's a FWD econobox with an open differential. It'd be nice to have an option to yank it out of a snowbank or some light mud without waiting three hours for triple A. But then I don't know poo poo about proper recovery. v  v
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Dec 2, 2012 19:05
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Up to $150 or so, what is the best 3/8" ratchet money can buy?
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Dec 3, 2012 01:12
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I have this one and it is pretty bad rear end. They were on sale on the truck for $80 though, not sure I'd pay $143. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=hand&item_ID=646285&group_ID=682403&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog The plain old f80 is really really good too.
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Dec 3, 2012 01:40
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revmoo posted:Up to $150 or so, what is the best 3/8" ratchet money can buy? Obligatory Snap-On plug, but honestly you'd not make a bad decision just buying several of whatever brand has the highest tooth count for $150 Keep in mind Snap-On warranties for ratchets don't straight-up swap like Mastercraft and the like, rather they replace the innards, and if they don't have the parts immediately on the truck (they usually will) you could be without your fancy ratchet for a little while.
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Dec 3, 2012 03:07
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That flex head one is nice.
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Dec 3, 2012 03:56
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Oh it's an awesome ratchet, I have ratchets in my box from Mac, matco, Cornwell, proto, craftsman, SK, gearwrench, even harbor freight, and nothing matches the quality of snap on's dual 80. I have a matco 88 tooth BFR118T that comes close, but the ratcheting mechanism is a little loose for my taste, and the reverse lever gets stuck sometimes. Never had any problems or complaints with my snap on ratchets. I like the f80 the best and it is my go to ratchet, even though the fhx80 is "better".
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Dec 3, 2012 04:20
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I have lots of different ratchets but my 3/8" Snap On F80 is my favorite.
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Dec 3, 2012 05:28
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revmoo posted:Up to $150 or so, what is the best 3/8" ratchet money can buy? Buy 5 craftsman rachets, and as they break just replace them free 
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Dec 3, 2012 16:07
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Holy poo poo. Today was one of those days where I found out I've been doing it wrong. I've used air gunsfor about 10 years, starting with one of the original Harbor Freight Earthquakes. Back then they were simply rebadged IR wrenches and highly regarded, I thought mine did a great job. Then JnnyThndrs offered up some used IR guns here and I grabbed a couple. They were much better than the Earthquake and I was happy. However, my air compressor is set to shut off at 120psi... and I've never considered anything else. Cut to last week when dad got a nice dual hydro Snapper Pro walk behind. I went to take the blades off, but couldn't budge them by hand with a 24" breaker bar... they had never been touched and were ON THERE. Today I brought over one of the Thndrs guns and dad's compressor is set to 150psi. loving monkey balls. I put the gun on the blade's bolt and it was off in a fraction of a second. I cannot believe how much power is gained with a few more psi. It is one of the most remarkable things I've seen in wrenching and made me look back at all the bolts I've fought with and shake my head... this gun would have laughed at some of that stuff. So, what pressure SHOULD I be running for air guns?
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Dec 3, 2012 16:47
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It depends what the gun is rated for , but generally if you want the most performance the biggest air blast you can muster will help. I just have a cheap little rattle gun which generally does the job OK. but I could not get it to remove a panhard rod bolt one day. Nor could I manage to get it loose with a socket and cheater bar. I was getting pretty frustrated and resorted in the end to the shortest hose I had direct from the compressor and it worked a treat.
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Dec 3, 2012 17:00
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Colonel K posted:resorted in the end to the shortest hose I had direct from the compressor and it worked a treat. Which is why I set my compressor for as much as my tools will take AT THE END OF THE LINE, not on the compressor itself. Pressure loss is a bitch, especially when you have long and/or small diameter lines.
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Dec 3, 2012 17:22
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If you're experiencing significant pressure loss from the compressor to the tool you need to look at the size of air line you are using.
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Dec 3, 2012 23:51
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It was going from a 20m hose length down to a 5m or so hose. The compressor was at it's highest pressure output. It must have been just enough to get it loose. When this little gun gives up I'll probably try one of the IR guns I've heard a lot of good things about them.
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Dec 4, 2012 00:05
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I know it's been discussed in this thread but there are 142 pages and I'm still a stupid newbie without search... What's a good ~18V 1/2" cordless impact wrench? I'm not going to have a garage to call my own for a good long while, so air powered is out. I'm asking for Christmas so I can "afford" to get a good one, but at the same time I don't really care to have a top-tier brand just to have the best of the best. Something that makes taking wheels off a trivial step and enough breakaway torque to make sure I don't have to worry about a stuck bolt when I already have the suspension out.
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Dec 4, 2012 03:33
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Do you have any other cordless tools? Do you plan on buying any? That is the biggest factor. Ryobi, Makita, Milwaukee, Dewalt, all offer impact guns. Figure out which line you like best and fits your price range. I use Ryobi and own 9-10 tools. If I did it over again I would try and do milwaukee but their prices are a bit higher. My gun was $100 and peaks out around 200 lb/ft. I also have the Ryobi impact driver which is adorable but actually works really nice for driving screws.
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Dec 4, 2012 04:20
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revmoo posted:Do you have any other cordless tools? Not yet, just the basic hand tools. Whenever I have a big job to do, I go to my grandparent's salvage yard and use all their nice tools, but I've been slowly adding to my own collection.
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Dec 4, 2012 05:03
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Aceshighxxx posted:I have this one and it is pretty bad rear end. They were on sale on the truck for $80 though, not sure I'd pay $143. Honestly, there is a GearWrench ratchet that is the same length and color as this one, but it has 84 teeth instead of 80, and about 1/4th the cost. Has the flex head too.
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Dec 4, 2012 05:50
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Speaking of gearwrench, their ratcheting box wrenches are awesome and incredibly durable. I've loosened rusty unit bearing retention bolts (specced at 125 ft-lbs) with them using a 4 pound hammer in a pinch and they still work just as well as when they were new. I broke one 15mm but it's a free one I found on the ground at a junkyard and it looks like it's at least ten years old, and it took two feet of cheater pipe and a very angry mechanic to make that happen.
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Dec 4, 2012 06:44
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For the midwest goons with a Menard's, they are having a sale on Gearwrench tools. I just picked up a go through socket set for 29 with a 5 dollar mail in rebate. And this thing is pretty kick rear end!
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Dec 4, 2012 08:27
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Delivery McGee posted:I love HF. Though you may be right -- my local store is close enough that I could probably return a power tool while standing in my yard if the wind was right and I swung it by the cord to throw it. My local HF is on the way to one Junkyard. Granger is on the way to the other nearby JY. I usually hit up HF then the Junkyard. The Disc Brake Caliper Tool Set (link to manual for it) http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/40000-40999/40732.pdf is actually really good quality for it's price. It worked better than the one I rented from Advance Auto. It really is nice for the rear calipers on the MR2. (or any of the screw type)
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Dec 4, 2012 17:58
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How can I free up my seized gearwrenches(or exchange them for new ones)? My toolbox got water in it and they sat submerged for probably weeks before I drained it and they are sticking.
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Dec 4, 2012 23:21
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Soak em in your favorite penetrating lube and use them till they free up a bit.
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Dec 4, 2012 23:27
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Yeah, head-down in a cup of ATF or whatever while you're out at work.
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Dec 4, 2012 23:29
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What's the best solution for paint/rust removal and general grinding. I've got an 4-1/2" angle grinder, but with a 5/8" arbor my choices are remove the guard and use a 5" wire wheel or use a thread-on cup style wire wheel. The cup one extends past the guard and fills my clothes with wires that shot off. It looks like there's a lot of options for die grinders, but I'm having trouble finding a decent plug-in one. My OSH angle grinder was $40 and has kept me happy. It seems like die grinders are more expensive and usually air powered.
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Dec 5, 2012 02:40
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Loucks posted:This isn't strictly automotive, but I need a cable puller/come-along for installing tension wire in fencing and eventually dragging my compact car out when it inevitably gets stuck in ice/snow. Any suggestions for an inexpensive model, or is "whatever is cheap at the hardware store" OK? The ones at harbor freight have lovely reviews, and I'd like it to last at least a few dozen uses. Go to Fleet Farm or TSC and pick one up. Farmers and rednecks get stuck alot, they have nicer units than the stamped steel gears that the autoparts/Walmart/HF all carry. I wore out the lovely gear and when it didn't catch it smacked me straight in the giblets. You will be stupid and tired when you use one, make sure its idiot proof.
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Dec 5, 2012 02:54
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For someone without a proper socket/ratchet set should I get the craftsman go through set or square head 3/8 ths?
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Dec 5, 2012 04:02
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tim0mit posted:For someone without a proper socket/ratchet set should I get the craftsman go through set or square head 3/8 ths? Personally I'd get a regular set with 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 ratchets + sockets. Anywhere you can use those passthrough sockets you can usally also use a gearwrench that is even lower profile.
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Dec 5, 2012 04:10
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Deceptor101 posted:What's the best solution for paint/rust removal and general grinding. I've got an 4-1/2" angle grinder, but with a 5/8" arbor my choices are remove the guard and use a 5" wire wheel or use a thread-on cup style wire wheel. The cup one extends past the guard and fills my clothes with wires that shot off. It looks like there's a lot of options for die grinders, but I'm having trouble finding a decent plug-in one. My OSH angle grinder was $40 and has kept me happy. It seems like die grinders are more expensive and usually air powered. The best way to remove paint and rust I've found something like a 3M Strip Disc. A lot of companies make a similar product now though, you can probably find something along the same lines at your local hardware store. They work way faster than a wire wheel and dont leave wires stuck in your appendages. They also dont bother the base metal if you get overly aggressive. http://www.completeautopaint.com/sh...tra-Coarse.html
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Dec 5, 2012 04:57
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tim0mit posted:For someone without a proper socket/ratchet set should I get the craftsman go through set or square head 3/8 ths? Get a metric wrench set with the ratcheting box heads. 10 mm through 24 mm is everything you will need. Sockets, get a 3/8th set with the same metric sizes.
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Dec 5, 2012 05:11
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Are most post 2k american cars metric?
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Dec 5, 2012 07:44
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Chickenbisket posted:The best way to remove paint and rust I've found something like a 3M Strip Disc. A lot of companies make a similar product now though, you can probably find something along the same lines at your local hardware store. They work way faster than a wire wheel and dont leave wires stuck in your appendages. They also dont bother the base metal if you get overly aggressive. That sounds awesome, I'll give it a try next time. Thanks!
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Dec 5, 2012 09:22
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tim0mit posted:Are most post 2k american cars metric? Mostly. But you'll still often find some SAE stuff depending on the assembly you are working on.
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Dec 5, 2012 10:49
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Deceptor101 posted:What's the best solution for paint/rust removal and general grinding. I've got an 4-1/2" angle grinder, but with a 5/8" arbor my choices are remove the guard and use a 5" wire wheel or use a thread-on cup style wire wheel. The cup one extends past the guard and fills my clothes with wires that shot off. It looks like there's a lot of options for die grinders, but I'm having trouble finding a decent plug-in one. My OSH angle grinder was $40 and has kept me happy. It seems like die grinders are more expensive and usually air powered. http://www.harborfreight.com/4-1-2-half-inch-nylon-abrasive-wheel-94017.html These are the greatest thing ever invented. So far I have gone through about 6 of them. They remove 50 year old OG paint and rust like its loving butter. You will have to remove the guard though. They also make a 4" that might fit in the guard, but I haven't tried.
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Dec 5, 2012 16:04
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veedubfreak posted:http://www.harborfreight.com/4-1-2-half-inch-nylon-abrasive-wheel-94017.html Yea, they are great. But, you have to be careful about heat buildup on the metal though. Its easy to get focused on cleaning one area and get it too hot to touch / risk warping it.
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Dec 5, 2012 17:35
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 22:10 |
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Mooecow posted:Yea, they are great. But, you have to be careful about heat buildup on the metal though. Its easy to get focused on cleaning one area and get it too hot to touch / risk warping it. I haven't had any issues with heat. But then again I'm not using them to try to get rid of heavy pitting, just paint and surface rust. They work great for that. When I get to the heavy gnarly rust I pull out the knotted wheel or the 3" cutting wheel. gently caress rust.
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Dec 5, 2012 20:45
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