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krushgroove posted:Dammit, now I'm looking at Epic 40K armies on ebay. Thats the spirit. I just inherited 2500 Austrian Napoleonic troops. Cant wait to get my teeth into them.
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Feb 14, 2013 10:48
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krushgroove posted:Dammit, now I'm looking at Epic 40K armies on ebay. Everyone should play Epic.
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Feb 14, 2013 10:55
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Signal posted:Everyone should play Epic. Seconding this, it is an awesome game which actually gives a decent representation of the battles that the 40k fluff is always going on about.
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Feb 14, 2013 10:57
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Agreed. Also for my money Warmaster ( and all its progeny) is as good if not better.
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Feb 14, 2013 11:25
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OneTrueBru posted:The green basecoat is airbrushed on, which is a massive help. I gloss varnished, then matte varnished them, too, which probably results in them looking a bit cleaner than they really are. The gloss varnish provides a nice smooth base for the matte. So you do a gloss varnish after basecoat green, then work on it, then when done matte varnish? Or matte varnish right after gloss and then really start painting? I really haven't experimented with varnish other than to coat at the end to protect the paint, but you have piqued my interest! EDIT: I think I get what you mean. You did the varnishing at the end. I shouldn't post without coffee in my system. Monday Averted fucked around with this message at 14:04 on Feb 14, 2013 |
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Feb 14, 2013 12:47
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So I never got an answer to my question about rust. Should it be bright orange or maroonish?
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Feb 14, 2013 14:04
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Schizotek posted:So I never got an answer to my question about rust. Should it be bright orange or maroonish? There's no right or wrong answer to that. You get to decide. Is it meant to be particularly old rust? The make it darker. Newer rust can be more orange. You could even do both on the same model.
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Feb 14, 2013 14:07
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Schizotek posted:So I never got an answer to my question about rust. Should it be bright orange or maroonish? What material should be rusting? Different metals rust to different colors. Copper rusts green as an example. It also depends on your color composition, depending on what you're trying to paint. In that situation I'd go with the color that better blends with the rest of the color scheme.
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Feb 14, 2013 14:07
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Signal posted:Everyone should play Epic. Serotonin posted:Agreed. Also for my money Warmaster ( and all its progeny) is as good if not better.
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Feb 14, 2013 15:41
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Monday Averted posted:What material should be rusting? Different metals rust to different colors. Copper rusts green as an example. I remember someone posting about a one or two step for getting a verdigris effect. Anyone save it?
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Feb 14, 2013 17:06
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Mt. ORourke posted:Oath Crosspost! Just wanted to say these look extremely awesome and very clean and crisp! With some models, I'd feel bad about shooting them off the table. These fall into that category.
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Feb 14, 2013 17:12
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Fauxtool posted:I remember someone posting about a one or two step for getting a verdigris effect. Anyone save it? ed: Alternatively, I learned recently that Vallejo makes Verdigris Glaze.
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Feb 14, 2013 18:10
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Luebbi posted:Just wanted to say these look extremely awesome and very clean and crisp! With some models, I'd feel bad about shooting them off the table. These fall into that category. Thanks!! The tyrant commander was definitely one of those models that looked bad right until the very end when it all sort of came together and worked somehow. And of course, now that it's painted it'll get shot first thing when I play it 
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Feb 14, 2013 18:48
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So I went back through and redesigned some of the building details, still not done yet, but I think they are looking better.  Also I got to thinking, 15mm terrain would be pretty easy to do as well I think. LumberingTroll fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Feb 14, 2013 |
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Feb 14, 2013 20:19
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Monday Averted posted:EDIT: I think I get what you mean. You did the varnishing at the end. I shouldn't post without coffee in my system. Yeah, the varnishing is at the end, as normal. Sorry, I wasn't particularly clear there.
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Feb 14, 2013 20:43
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LumberingTroll posted:Also I got to thinking, 15mm terrain would be pretty easy to do as well I think.
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Feb 14, 2013 20:45
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berzerkmonkey posted:6mm might be pretty cool as well, hint, hint. the problem with something that small is that my material is 4.23mm thick. 1/8"
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Feb 14, 2013 20:47
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What is the rough idea of using a glaze?
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Feb 14, 2013 20:47
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One thing I'd consider with your bad rear end modular building project- making a set that looks more grimdark. I think those buildings look perfect for something like Infinity, but are a little contemporary looking for space gothic.
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Feb 14, 2013 21:33
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SERPUS posted:What is the rough idea of using a glaze?
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Feb 14, 2013 21:38
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BULBASAUR posted:One thing I'd consider with your bad rear end modular building project- making a set that looks more grimdark. I think those buildings look perfect for something like Infinity, but are a little contemporary looking for space gothic. Yeah, I will come up with a GrimDark set. I dont play 40k, but I understand the appeal. I am sure I can do something.
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Feb 14, 2013 21:45
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BULBASAUR posted:One thing I'd consider with your bad rear end modular building project- making a set that looks more grimdark. I think those buildings look perfect for something like Infinity, but are a little contemporary looking for space gothic. What you don't like the Tau home planet look?
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Feb 14, 2013 22:17
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Small update   Added a balcony of sorts, and an undershot of how the floors are done, the idea is that with the parts you can design almost any building you want.
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Feb 14, 2013 23:14
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I really wanna buy that already  e: vvv You can buy testors dullcote in a brush on jar. I haven't tried it yet, but if you thin it right you could just spray it using your airbrush. BULBASAUR fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Feb 15, 2013 |
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Feb 15, 2013 00:26
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Yeah the laser-cut MDF stuff looks fantastic but it's sooo expensive (IMO). I think for wargaming, flat pack + modular = massive demand, though, so I hope your stuff is affordable so I can get in line. I've finally got my airbrush/compressor setup going (yay Teflon tape, it sealed a lovely hose I've been saddled with) but I'm wondering if there are any recommendations for an airbrushable equivalent to Dullcote? I have W&N acrylic lacquers in gloss and matte but I'm just wondering still.
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Feb 15, 2013 00:30
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I am going to do my best to make sure they are affordable, I totally agree that laser cut MDF terrain is stupid expensive. I am willing to bet I can do it for half of what the actual companies are doing it for, but we will see, it all comes down to how much I can fit on a sheet and how much shipping would be.
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Feb 15, 2013 01:43
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krushgroove posted:Yeah the laser-cut MDF stuff looks fantastic but it's sooo expensive (IMO). I think for wargaming, flat pack + modular = massive demand, though, so I hope your stuff is affordable so I can get in line. I use future floor wax and tamiya x21 flat base. Its visually identical as far as i can tell
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Feb 15, 2013 01:47
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krushgroove posted:I've finally got my airbrush/compressor setup going (yay Teflon tape, it sealed a lovely hose I've been saddled with) but I'm wondering if there are any recommendations for an airbrushable equivalent to Dullcote? I have W&N acrylic lacquers in gloss and matte but I'm just wondering still. I use Liquitex Matte Varnish, straight through my airbrush, works well, but if you put too much on it will look frosted, just a couple light dustings is all you need.
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Feb 15, 2013 01:55
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Varnishchat: W&N "Artist's Acrylic Matt UV Varnish" (bit of a mouthful) is what I use. Not too expensive, and a bottle will last for ages. My DA a few pages back were varnished with it, if you want an idea of how it looks. It's probably not as ultra-matte as dullcote, but there's a rather bright LED lamp not 20cm overhead in that picture, and they were gloss coated beforehand, so it's still pretty drat matte.
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Feb 15, 2013 02:02
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I think I need some help. I've been working on a Soviet tank for Dust Warfare and I think I'm painting it beyond repair. The model came unpainted, so I put a "Soviet green" primer on it, then highlighted some details on it, then I've just been adding layers of wash onto it. Now that I step back and look at it, I think its getting too dark. I wanted to do some edge highlighting and maybe some rust or weathering, but I'm not even sure they would show up. Take a gander and let me know please:  ... or is this a 
SERPUS fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Feb 15, 2013 |
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Feb 15, 2013 03:13
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You're putting more thought into this than the real-life Soviets of the era did. I started painting WW2 Soviet armor last year, and did a bunch of research and asked a lot of questions (a lot of them ITT). The breadth of Soviet manufacturing facilities and relaxed QC on production materials meant that the real-life Red Army was painted in many shades of green. There are ways to make it more visually interesting than flat green. You can dirty up the tracks and road wheels and throw some propaganda slogans on it! There's lots of companies that produce decals, which is a much more sane route than free-handing them if you don't know the alphabet.
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Feb 15, 2013 03:38
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So I started painting my evil knight guy and wanted to paint him with a gold and red scheme. I decided to experiment with just painting on straight black and it turns out that, yes, it's just as stupid as the last time I did it.  Anyway, since this guy is my test mini for metals, I decided to paint another part of his armor with Tin Bitz first then put the P3 Solid Gold right over that. It looks nice but a little too brown/coppery for my tastes. I'm looking for straight yellow gold, so anyone got any suggestions?
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Feb 15, 2013 03:54
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At the risk of sounding obvious, try yellow.
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Feb 15, 2013 04:37
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Last image for the night,  I am going to a shop tomorrow to have some prototypes cut, we will see how things go!
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Feb 15, 2013 05:43
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Fauxtool posted:I use future floor wax and tamiya x21 flat base. Its visually identical as far as i can tell LumberingTroll posted:I use Liquitex Matte Varnish, straight through my airbrush, works well, but if you put too much on it will look frosted, just a couple light dustings is all you need. OneTrueBru posted:Varnishchat: W&N "Artist's Acrylic Matt UV Varnish" (bit of a mouthful) is what I use. Not too expensive, and a bottle will last for ages. Thanks all! What I'm planning to do is use up the spray cans of primer and varnish that I have, and then experiment with various acrylics and maybe floor polish to see what I get. It'll just be nice to be able to prime and varnish indoors rather than have to run in and out of the house dodging raindrops, heating up the can, etc.!
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Feb 15, 2013 15:12
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LumberingTroll posted:I use Liquitex Matte Varnish, straight through my airbrush, works well, but if you put too much on it will look frosted, just a couple light dustings is all you need. I know you said to use an airbrush, but I've been trying to brush Liquitex Matte on here and there (no airbrush) and it does end up looking a bit thick/frosted sometimes. Any suggestions on how to avoid this? I haven't been thinning it since the directions on the bottle explicitly say not to do that, but maybe that's bullshit?
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Feb 15, 2013 15:19
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I used dettol to strip the paint off some of the bombs from the dakkajet set that I hosed up. The dettol has gone all sticky and gummy, and I can't really get it off. Any ideas on how I can get this crud off? The paint has been stripped, but it's been stripped into a globby ball that is still attached to my bombs.
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Feb 15, 2013 15:44
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Lethemonster posted:I used dettol to strip the paint off some of the bombs from the dakkajet set that I hosed up. The dettol has gone all sticky and gummy, and I can't really get it off. Any ideas on how I can get this crud off? Have you tried a toothbrush with warm water? I usually have to have a good go at scrubbing to get as much off as I can.
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Feb 15, 2013 15:46
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Lethemonster posted:I used dettol to strip the paint off some of the bombs from the dakkajet set that I hosed up. The dettol has gone all sticky and gummy, and I can't really get it off. Any ideas on how I can get this crud off? I find this after stripping a model that has a black spray primer. What I like to do is to have 2 containers, after leaving it in the first container for a day or so, I give it a scrub with a toothbrush, neat fairy liquid and a rinse with warm water. if it still feels a little greasy after that it will go into the 2nd tank that has cleaner Dettol and no crud sitting in the bottom. it wont need as long in the 2nd tank and should remove the remaining greasy residue for you.
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Feb 15, 2013 17:34
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Added to my American force: 2 MG teams, 2 rifleman teams, a bazooka and a mortar. When I'll do the command team that's it for the paratroops and then there's another German platoon and 6 or so tanks.       
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Feb 15, 2013 17:59
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