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My friend got autolysis once but he literally kept the beer on the yeast for an entire year. It's very hard to do.
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Apr 4, 2013 16:03
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Saint Darwin posted:So with Irish Moss, gelatin, and a 2 day cold crash, it should be as clear as it's gonna get, right? I haven't used gelatin before, but in my experience cold crashing alone does enough to clear it up. I don't use wirlfloc tablets or even strain anymore, honestly.
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Apr 4, 2013 16:03
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BerkerkLurk posted:My friend got autolysis once but he literally kept the beer on the yeast for an entire year. It's very hard to do. Can autolysis happen with Brett?
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Apr 4, 2013 16:23
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I don't think it's possible to avoid sediment when bottle carbonating. If there is I would love to know! I generally cold crash for 3-5 days and still get some yeast sediment at the bottom. Maybe I need to cold crash colder/longer? A buddy of mine who's brewed much longer than I said that he doesn't like buckets because after a few uses they tend to let a lot more oxygen in (opening and closing the lid making the seal weaker I suppose). He said this after noticing oxygenation in my mild. The mild had been sitting in a bucket I'd used 4-5 times and was sitting there for 3-4 months. I had to transport it in a car for 20 minutes and I did rack it off of the yeast before cold crashing. There's a poo poo ton of variables here that I would first attribute the oxygenation to, but has anyone heard of buckets letting more oxygen in over time? He said Better Bottles are much better and let less oxygen in.
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Apr 4, 2013 16:33
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Midorka posted:I don't think it's possible to avoid sediment when bottle carbonating. If there is I would love to know! I generally cold crash for 3-5 days and still get some yeast sediment at the bottom. Maybe I need to cold crash colder/longer? I think, deep down, part of me likes just a little bit of sediment in my bottles. It just gives it that "look how home-brew my brew is!" Maybe that's why I like red wine so much, because most of those have the dregs or grape bits in there.
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Apr 4, 2013 16:39
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internet celebrity posted:Can autolysis happen with Brett? Reading Wild Brews, it made it seem autolysis of sacharomyces is all but required for a good brett fermentation because it frees up a lot of good nutrients to turbo charge the Brett.
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Apr 4, 2013 16:49
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 Could someone explain to me what the device being used to filter the mash in this cooler conversion is? Is this a better/worse solution than building a copper manifold?
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Apr 4, 2013 17:15
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Probably a PVC pipe with slits cut along the bottom. No personal experience to go on, but my room mates new mash tun is an all PVC manifold and he said it works great (150 qt cooler too, 15+ gallon batches usually).
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Apr 4, 2013 17:22
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Midorka posted:I don't think it's possible to avoid sediment when bottle carbonating. If there is I would love to know! I generally cold crash for 3-5 days and still get some yeast sediment at the bottom. Maybe I need to cold crash colder/longer? Nottingham yeast flocs down to pretty much no visible sediment. It is a fairly neutral yeast as long as you keep it cool, so you can switch it for US-05. I do want to stress it is much less forgiving about temperature than US-05! Keep it cool or your beer will be pretty awful! Since flocculation is a function of lignins and stuff on the surface of the yeast, for other beer styles you can add some Nottingham yeast (try ~1/4th a packet) to secondary once fermentation is complete. The lignins and stuff on the Nottingham should grab onto the other yeast, pull them down and hold them down. quote:A buddy of mine who's brewed much longer than I said that he doesn't like buckets because after a few uses they tend to let a lot more oxygen in (opening and closing the lid making the seal weaker I suppose). He said this after noticing oxygenation in my mild. The mild had been sitting in a bucket I'd used 4-5 times and was sitting there for 3-4 months. I had to transport it in a car for 20 minutes and I did rack it off of the yeast before cold crashing. There's a poo poo ton of variables here that I would first attribute the oxygenation to, but has anyone heard of buckets letting more oxygen in over time? He said Better Bottles are much better and let less oxygen in. While buckets are more porous to oxygen, my guess is that the transport is what did it here. After a couple of months the CO2 layer is basically gone and buckets have a lot of headspace. Shaking it around in the car is probably what did it. Though in my experience when a brewer is experiencing oxygenation problem it is from hot side aeration. What is your set-up and workflow? It is possible that you've had some level of HSA in all your beers but are only noticing it in the mild because there isn't as much flavor to cover it up. Also, how are you bottling? When I first started brewing I didn't have a bottling wand. That lead to some horrifically oxygenated beers.
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Apr 4, 2013 18:58
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Saint Darwin posted:So with Irish Moss, gelatin, and a 2 day cold crash, it should be as clear as it's gonna get, right? It takes a good week or so to be clear and its not going to look straight up filtered-clear for a week or so more. My (kegged) beers, regardless of what I do to them will look filter-clear if they're kept cold for more than 3 weeks. Gelatin mostly just helps it be presentable faster. Shbobdb posted:Nottingham yeast flocs down to pretty much no visible sediment. It is a fairly neutral yeast as long as you keep it cool, so you can switch it for US-05. I do want to stress it is much less forgiving about temperature than US-05! Keep it cool or your beer will be pretty awful! Since flocculation is a function of lignins and stuff on the surface of the yeast, for other beer styles you can add some Nottingham yeast (try ~1/4th a packet) to secondary once fermentation is complete. The lignins and stuff on the Nottingham should grab onto the other yeast, pull them down and hold them down. And here we go.
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Apr 4, 2013 20:01
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I have a few standard extract/steeping grain brews under my belt, and I'm looking to upgrade to all-grain. I'm thinking of going with a brew in a bag to try it out before I commit to buying all of the extra equipment, but it still means buying a new pot, a burner, and a bag. Is there anything specific I should be looking for in a 10-gallon pot or a burner? Also, will a standard paint straining bag from Lowe's work for a full-size brew, or will I need something bigger? This is all assuming a 5-gallon batch, by the way.
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Apr 4, 2013 21:34
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Nolanar posted:I have a few standard extract/steeping grain brews under my belt, and I'm looking to upgrade to all-grain. I'm thinking of going with a brew in a bag to try it out before I commit to buying all of the extra equipment, but it still means buying a new pot, a burner, and a bag. Is there anything specific I should be looking for in a 10-gallon pot or a burner? Also, will a standard paint straining bag from Lowe's work for a full-size brew, or will I need something bigger? This is all assuming a 5-gallon batch, by the way. The paint strainer bags will work fine, though you may end up going through a few of them over time (not a big deal given they're cheap, but nevertheless). I can trust about 25lbs with my bag, but that's a custom bag with heavier materials and stitching for this purpose. I'm not sure I'd put more than, say, 12-15lbs in one of those paint strainer bags. That's dry grain weight, by the way. Also, obligatory "buy a 40-quart winware aluminum pot off Amazon" answer.
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Apr 4, 2013 23:59
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Couple of questions that I'm sure are retreads: I have a pilsner that I racked to secondary earlier this week. It in primary @ 50 degrees for 3 weeks, then @ 34 for a week before I moved it to secondary. Two questions on this: is "autolysis" from leaving beer on the yeast actually a thing, or has that been pretty much debunked? Also, how long should I lager this for? It tasted really, really good when I tried it during racking. Next, I feel like an IPA of mine that is getting a bit older (5 months) tastes...salty. I googled this and there were suggestions it could be hard water or minerals from a water heater, neither of which would apply. No other beers of mine have tasted like this. It is a pretty hoppy (~70 IBU) beer...is my palate just tasting bitter as salty for some reason? Is it because it is getting older?
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Apr 5, 2013 01:41
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Shbobdb posted:Nottingham yeast flocs down to pretty much no visible sediment. It is a fairly neutral yeast as long as you keep it cool, so you can switch it for US-05. I do want to stress it is much less forgiving about temperature than US-05! Keep it cool or your beer will be pretty awful! Since flocculation is a function of lignins and stuff on the surface of the yeast, for other beer styles you can add some Nottingham yeast (try ~1/4th a packet) to secondary once fermentation is complete. The lignins and stuff on the Nottingham should grab onto the other yeast, pull them down and hold them down. Thanks for the info on the yeast it's much appreciated. As for the beer, I believe (it was at my buddies house fermenting that's why I had to transport it) it was at 68F in the room, so it fermented definitely on the warm side, probably 72 while at its peak. As for bottling, I do have a wand. Angry Grimace posted:And here we go. What do you mean?
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Apr 5, 2013 01:51
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One more question: Every beer that I've brewed so far (I've done 13 batches) has ended up finishing with an FG below 1.010. This includes a couple of IPAs that both had healthy amounts of crystal/dextrine, a heavy holiday ale, and a marzen (among others). All of the beers I've brewed have the taste/mouthfeel appropriate to their style, but the FG ALWAYS comes out low. This has been the case over 3 different hydrometers also. Fermentation temps are generally where they should be, it just winds up being really high attenuation. Could I be doing something wrong in taking the gravity readings? Is the hydrometer wrong? It reads water as 1.000 and it is calibrated for 60*; I always adjust for temp and whatnot.
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Apr 5, 2013 02:06
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Midorka posted:Thanks for the info on the yeast it's much appreciated. bewbies posted:One more question: If its really bugging you or you want to make a 1.010+ just to say you did, if extract consider a different manufacturer for the base extract, or if mashing crank that temp up in a single infusion.
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Apr 5, 2013 02:15
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I think homebrew threads have the "House Effect", e.g.:http://www.google.com/trends/explore#q=do%20i%20have%20lupus
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Apr 5, 2013 02:52
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Nolanar posted:I have a few standard extract/steeping grain brews under my belt, and I'm looking to upgrade to all-grain. I'm thinking of going with a brew in a bag to try it out before I commit to buying all of the extra equipment, but it still means buying a new pot, a burner, and a bag. Is there anything specific I should be looking for in a 10-gallon pot or a burner? 10 gallons just isn't big enough (even for 5 gallon batches); I can only fit ~13# of grain in my 10.5 gallon pot with strainer basket.
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Apr 5, 2013 03:24
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zedprime posted:This thread hates itself some hot side aeration talk. Bc it's a phantom worry like tannins leeching from the grist. You have to really gently caress up to make it a factor.
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Apr 5, 2013 03:33
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When I was at Deschutes in Bend, OR, I ran into the goon Prefect Six there - and he asked the tour guide if they did anything special to avoid HSA. The tour guide did not know anything about it, so she called one of the brewery production workers down to the tasting bar. That guy did not even know what it was and I explained to him that half of the Internet thinks it's a huge problem and the other half thinks it's a non-issue. he said they've never taken any special precautions. In other discussions, the basic response has been that you have to, as LeeMajors says, really gently caress up to cause HSA - not only do you have to do a lot of agitation of the wort, but the pH has to be juuuuust right for it to happen - just right in a way that indicates you're doing something alarming to your beer in the first place.
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Apr 5, 2013 03:53
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Jo3sh posted:In other discussions, the basic response has been that you have to, as LeeMajors says, really gently caress up to cause HSA - not only do you have to do a lot of agitation of the wort, but the pH has to be juuuuust right for it to happen - just right in a way that indicates you're doing something alarming to your beer in the first place. Plus, if your technique is bad enough for that to happen, you probably have a billion concomitant factors as well, so it's hard to know what percentage of off flavor is attributed to HSA anyways.
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Apr 5, 2013 04:22
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Beyond that, active yeast are incredibly good at cleaning up oxidation flavors. If you manage to somehow over aerate at a high temperature, your fermentation should take care of the of flavors. Even beyond that, you need to aerate your wort before fermentation begins to ensure a healthy environment for the yeast, so hsa makes no conceptual sense. Not to mention that thinking that you can over oxygenate your wort through agitation when it is warm is completely stupid considering the need for a healthy, rolling boil.
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Apr 5, 2013 05:30
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Some professional breweries whirlpool their beer for up to 90 minutes and as far as I can tell none of them take special steps to worry about HSA; moreover, as Bamforth noted in his the podcast on HSA, oxygen isn't very soluble in hot liquids. I'm pretty convinced that its a myth that HSA is affecting anyone's home brew outside of the steps the person takes to avoid it.
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Apr 5, 2013 06:58
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Drank the first bottle of the Hungarian green wine I made last fall (grapes I grew) and it was fantastic. Similar to a sauvignion blanc, but more minerally due to our soil. Quite hot from the 16% alcohol, but very good. I am pleased, and will sleep well.
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Apr 5, 2013 07:03
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wattershed posted:The paint strainer bags will work fine, though you may end up going through a few of them over time (not a big deal given they're cheap, but nevertheless). I can trust about 25lbs with my bag, but that's a custom bag with heavier materials and stitching for this purpose. I'm not sure I'd put more than, say, 12-15lbs in one of those paint strainer bags. That's dry grain weight, by the way. nmfree posted:Move up to at least a 15 gallon pot, and I would suggest one that has a matching fryer basket. You can clip the strainer bag (or even stretch the elastic over the lip) to the basket and use the handle to lift the spent grain out/ hang above the brew kettle to let the last little bit of liquid drain out. Thanks for the advice! I'll probably go with a 10-gallon for now and avoid recipes with a big grain bill, and then just use that as my second pot for all-grain if it turns out to be too small. And I'll probably be getting this guy to heat it, unless people have "that burner burned my house down" stories.
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Apr 5, 2013 10:31
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goons posted:HSA CHAT I love when this comes up. It's kinda like autolysis, which is almost equally dumb to worry about.
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Apr 5, 2013 12:53
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Imasalmon posted:Beyond that, active yeast are incredibly good at cleaning up oxidation flavors. If you manage to somehow over aerate at a high temperature, your fermentation should take care of the of flavors. Even beyond that, you need to aerate your wort before fermentation begins to ensure a healthy environment for the yeast, so hsa makes no conceptual sense. No, you see, HSA is a magical chemical phenomenon where the oxygen compounds in such a way that it is inaccessible to yeast but can perfectly time its dissolution such that it can spoil beer 4 months down the line. Magically.
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Apr 5, 2013 13:42
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My 85 year old, senile as hell grandfather was in town recently and now that he knows I homebrew he loves to tell me about how he and his father used to make wine in their basement, circa 1930s/40s Philadelphia. Most of you guys would lose your minds if you heard how a) little-to-nothing they knew about the science and b) how absolutely no regard was given to sanitation. And yet they made great vino and everyone loved it and was happy. Also he calls visual/active fermentation "boiling" which I'm totally stealing 
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Apr 5, 2013 13:42
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Jacobey000 posted:I love when this comes up. It's kinda like autolysis, which is almost equally dumb to worry about. Right. I think it's beginner denial that there is something else wrong with your process, so it's easy to attach blame to some bogeyman. I was guilty of it at first. It's just easier to say poo poo like that than it is to accept that your process is seriously hosed. Smart people learn and overcome, dumb people continue to blame it on non-factors.
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Apr 5, 2013 13:52
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I made tomato wine, which was a bad mistake. It tastes like a tomato threw up in my mouth.
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Apr 5, 2013 13:54
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The Candyman posted:I made tomato wine, which was a bad mistake. It tastes like a tomato threw up in my mouth. Tomatoes and cukes make me pukes
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Apr 5, 2013 14:01
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Angry Grimace posted:Some professional breweries whirlpool their beer for up to 90 minutes [without causing HSA] I read somewhere that Sierra Nevada's first wort chiller was a waterfall of hot wort down a piece of corrugated steel, with cold water sprayed on the back side.
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Apr 5, 2013 15:12
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Okay, that's a lot of hate for a comment someone made. Either way I don't know how my beer got oxidized but I'm guessing it was a combination of having a 3% beer sit for 3-4 months then transporting it in a car having it swish around a lot. I have no idea, it's my first oxidized beer, but either way it won't be happening again.
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Apr 5, 2013 15:12
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Sorry, we really don't hate you - honest!
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Apr 5, 2013 15:16
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Marshmallow Blue posted:Tomatoes and cukes make me pukes No, no, you just need to round out the recipe. Garlic and oregano, that's what you need to add.
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Apr 5, 2013 15:18
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Jo3sh posted:I read somewhere that Sierra Nevada's first wort chiller was a waterfall of hot wort down a piece of corrugated steel, with cold water sprayed on the back side. Sorry but that is incredibly awesome. I have a question about chiller design though: they're cooled coils submerged in hot liquid, right? Why isn't it the other way around? It would probably chill it down in one pass. I assume because it'd be a shitload more equipment.
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Apr 5, 2013 15:27
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Speaking of moving beers, I'm probably going to be moving in a month or so and I've got a RR Consecration clone in my closet that's ~4mo along. I don't think there's any way to not jostle it while moving it, is babbys first sour going to be ruined? 
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Apr 5, 2013 15:29
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Saint Darwin posted:Sorry but that is incredibly awesome. You are essentially describing a counterflow chiller.
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Apr 5, 2013 15:30
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Saint Darwin posted:Sorry but that is incredibly awesome. Distilling is done this way, you have your alcohol vapors travel through a coil submerged in ice cool water and it condenses. Edit: Raging Boner *Seinfeld's Newman fist*
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Apr 5, 2013 15:32
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Saint Darwin posted:I have a question about chiller design though: they're cooled coils submerged in hot liquid, right? Why isn't it the other way around? It would probably chill it down in one pass. I assume because it'd be a shitload more equipment. Look up counterflow chillers. Here's one, for example. It's not more equipment, really, it's just different equipment. The (forgive me) cool new thing these days is plate chillers, which are the same idea, but flat. So loving beaten.
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Apr 5, 2013 15:32
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