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fullroundaction posted:Authentic to what though? We actually LIKE the "crafty American wheat" style or whatever you would call it. Won't win us any BJCP points, but that's not really what we're going for. More authentic to the original witbiers. If you prefer the crafty American wheat styles then that's cool, nothing wrong with that. I enjoy a Blue Moon on occasion myself. Have you tried something like Hoegaarden, Allagash White, or St. Bernardus Wit? I think if try some of those you'll see where I'm coming from. They have a creamier body, and are a bit more complex, while still being very approachable and very drinkable. The important thing, though, is to brew what you like. Thanks! It tastes as good as it looks! Edit: As for BCJP, I don't care one crap at how my beer scores through BCJP after how low my Wit scored. Edit 2: This Reddit thread is pretty awesome. I didn't know you could harvest yeast like this and I was also unaware that Heady Topper's yeast was rare and contributed that much to the flavor of it. Midorka fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Apr 17, 2013 |
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Apr 17, 2013 19:14
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Midorka posted:Edit 2: This Reddit thread is pretty awesome. I didn't know you could harvest yeast like this and I was also unaware that Heady Topper's yeast was rare and contributed that much to the flavor of it. Doing it this way, will the ratio be the same? I know the Mad Fermentationist has poured the dregs of La Roja into multiple sour brews before with good results. If I harvest in this way will it provide similar results? hellfaucet fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Apr 17, 2013 |
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Apr 17, 2013 21:32
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That's what I do with my jolly pumpkin or other sour dregs. Try to keep it in a spot warmer then normal to super charge bug growth vs sacc growth. Also, I'm lazy so I use flat Malta Goya for a starter.
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Apr 17, 2013 22:10
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Upgrading to a 10 gallon brew kettle in anticipation of eventually switching to all grain brewing, and I need a new thermometer. Are there any good recommendations? Right now I'm thinking I'll just get a candy thermometer I can clip to the side of the pot.
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Apr 17, 2013 23:15
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door Door door posted:Upgrading to a 10 gallon brew kettle in anticipation of eventually switching to all grain brewing, and I need a new thermometer. Are there any good recommendations? Right now I'm thinking I'll just get a candy thermometer I can clip to the side of the pot. http://brewhardware.com/thermometers/76-cdn-digital-thermometer This thermo is awesome. Don't stick w/ the candy thermo, it's slow and imprecise. Thermapens are awesome too.
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Apr 17, 2013 23:24
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LeeMajors posted:http://brewhardware.com/thermometers/76-cdn-digital-thermometer My kit came with one of those and I was told to get one of the big fat analog ones; it just seemed to make more sense because I could hang it and do readings instead of having to stick my hand into the pot over possibly very hot, steaming liquid.
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Apr 17, 2013 23:28
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Saint Darwin posted:My kit came with one of those and I was told to get one of the big fat analog ones; it just seemed to make more sense because I could hang it and do readings instead of having to stick my hand into the pot over possibly very hot, steaming liquid. For a extract brewer the candy thermometer is fine, seeing as how you need to hit a broad range of temperatures for steeping grains and then boil. When you actually need temperatures to be precise, it is usually below boiling temps (during the mash, from 94* dough-in to 170* mash-out), and you need real-time temps. You aren't going to hurt yourself at those temps, or at a near-boil even. You can stick with the analog for that if you want, but be prepared to have a lovely mash. It's going to be extremely frustrating trying to adjust temps quickly.
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Apr 17, 2013 23:31
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Thanks for the advice everyone. I'll grab a candy thermometer to keep using with extract brews and for the boiling portion of all grain brews but I'll pick up a thermapen (or a cheaper version) for mashing.
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Apr 17, 2013 23:48
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The habanero infusion has begun. Going to strain in 3 days, bottle my 1 gallon test batch, and put from 0.5 tsp to 1 tbsp in individual bottles to find the right level of heat.
Adult Sword Owner fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Apr 18, 2013 |
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Apr 18, 2013 01:43
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I'm planning a small test batch for one of my summer beers, a raspberry wheat at about 4%. Planning on simple recipe probably just extract (at least for the test) and clean ferment like us-05. For decent but not OMG raspberry flavor wrack onto about 0.25lb per gallon? Does that sound decent?
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Apr 18, 2013 01:59
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That habenero vodka is going to be HOT! I suggest adding a teaspoon to an already finished beer, putting a lid back on it for a couple days and then drinking it.
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Apr 18, 2013 02:21
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ChiTownEddie posted:I'm planning a small test batch for one of my summer beers, a raspberry wheat at about 4%. Planning on simple recipe probably just extract (at least for the test) and clean ferment like us-05. I think 1lb per gallon was what I read for a moderately strong flavor, I may be remembering wrong though.
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Apr 18, 2013 02:24
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Midorka posted:I think 1lb per gallon was what I read for a moderately strong flavor, I may be remembering wrong though. Oooh. Okay, I'll start with more .75lb per gallon for my first test batch. Thanks 
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Apr 18, 2013 02:28
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PBCrunch posted:That habenero vodka is going to be HOT! I suggest adding a teaspoon to an already finished beer, putting a lid back on it for a couple days and then drinking it. A teaspoon in the 5 gallon? Didn't someone here make one that used 2 tsp per bottle? edit: Yep PBCrunch posted:I took my non-spicy jalapeno vodka and put four roasted Serrano peppers and one roasted habenero pepper in it for two days. I ended up putting about 2 tsp of vodka per beer and it is pleasantly spicy. It doesn't melt your face, but the fruity pepper flavor is strong and there is some heat. Adult Sword Owner fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Apr 18, 2013 |
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Apr 18, 2013 02:30
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ChiTownEddie posted:Oooh. Okay, I'll start with more .75lb per gallon for my first test batch. Thanks I would read a little more, as my numbers may be off. I just remember telling my girlfriend that I didn't want to bother putting 6 pounds of peach puree into our witbier if we didn't know how the base beer was first. Some fruits are also more potent in flavor, so you'd need less. Question time: I just did a water test, well a free strip test that measures hardness. It seems my water is soft, it said about 50ppm, though it doesn't specify any chemical. Can anyone tell me what this might mean? Secondly my grain is a tad stale. When I eat it, yes I eat grain because it tastes good, it isn't as crunchy as usual. It's a bit stale. How will this effect my beer? Midorka fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Apr 18, 2013 |
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Apr 18, 2013 02:31
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Beer might taste a bit off. It's not the end of the world, but someone who knows beer/homebrew will be able to tell its not fresh.
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Apr 18, 2013 03:06
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What are the main off flavors resulting from not oxygenating the wort? I'm really having trouble nailing down the flaws in my process. I've locked down everything I can think of, but my main method of oxygenation is just stirring the hell out of the wort. I just ordered an O2 kit, and I'm hoping this solves these weird flavor issues. Edit: I just read a little about off flavors. I'm mainly experiencing what I would put in the category of phenols, or medicinal flavors. I've eliminated chlorine/chloramine since I use RO/DI water and I'm still getting the flavor. I never have this issue in stouts or porters. The paper I just read mentioned PH issues during the mash, which I haven't considered until now. Luckily, I ordered some 5.2 stabilizer along with my O2 kit, so I'll see how this goes. Still looking for any other advice though. U.S. Barryl fucked around with this message at 03:36 on Apr 18, 2013 |
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Apr 18, 2013 03:09
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Midorka posted:...Hoegaarden, Allagash White, or St. Bernardus Wit... ...one of these things is not like the others.
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Apr 18, 2013 06:17
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Midorka posted:I think 1lb per gallon was what I read for a moderately strong flavor, I may be remembering wrong though. Are you sure you're going to let him get away with making a raspberry wheat when he could spend a few years and make something "more authentic" like a framboise?!?! (I'm just bustin balls, calm down  )Speaking of fruit additions (kind of), the girls in my house have ALREADY started arguing about this year's pumpkin beer. FML
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Apr 18, 2013 12:58
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fullroundaction posted:Are you sure you're going to let him get away with making a raspberry wheat when he could spend a few years and make something "more authentic" like a framboise?!?! Hahaha good luck on the Pumpkin beer Actually speaking of framboise...This beer I'm talking about making is the, wait for it, test batch to an easy summer beer which is a test of part of the procedure for making a framboise! I actually really want to make one, just don't think I'll start it until the fall haha.
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Apr 18, 2013 14:42
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fullroundaction posted:Are you sure you're going to let him get away with making a raspberry wheat when he could spend a few years and make something "more authentic" like a framboise?!?! Most farms have pick your own Framboise in the Summertime, why worry about growing your own? Let's not forget, framboise is French for "raspberry" (I'm just bustin balls, calm down (I had to do it)). Anyways, I've already planned my pumpkin mead for this year, and I'm sure at least one pumpkin beer will go down as well.
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Apr 18, 2013 14:46
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ChiTownEddie posted:a test of part of the procedure for making a framboise! This is exactly the same thing I'm doing. I just brewed a lambic a couple weeks ago and am going to start messing with fruit additions for my summer beers now so that in a year or so I don't screw it up when I split the batch into framboise/kriek. Marshmallow Blue posted:Anyways, I've already planned my pumpkin mead for this year, and I'm sure at least one pumpkin beer will go down as well. I'm pretty sure I'm just going to use the 12/12/12 recipe as a template (except less dark and without the orange) and add a crapload of pumpkin to the mash. I screwed up the timing of my spice additions last year and I like the way they have theirs scheduled. http://blog.stonebrew.com/index.php/121212-vertical-epic-recipe/
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Apr 18, 2013 15:02
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I've got about half a pound of leftover Amarillo pellets that have been in my freezer for about a two years (original silver bag in a sealed ziplock, but not vacuum sealed). Any opinions if they're still good? I'm thinking of brewing a Gumballhead-like hoppy wheat.
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Apr 18, 2013 18:23
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Smell them. They should be roughly as good as they smell. If they smell like cheese, save for a lambic or something.
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Apr 18, 2013 19:31
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Hello, I've just started finally to get into home brewing. I just have one question at the moment (may have a couple more in future). What is the pros and cons between whole hops vs hop pellets? I can't seem to find much on it and wondering what the differences were. I'm from the UK so I tend to find whole hops a lot more common then pellets but neither know whats 'best'.
Fluo fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Apr 18, 2013 |
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Apr 18, 2013 20:39
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I personally use all pellets, for the following reasons: -- Because they are compressed into the pellet form, they are less susceptible to oxidation and staling. I vacuum-pack mine and stick them in the freezer, and they seem to keep pretty well this way. -- They also take up less space in my freezer - eight or ten pounds of pellets fit into the shelves in the door of my freezer; eight or ten pounds of whole hops would take up significant shelf space. -- Pellets also give you a slightly higher utilization - you get more bitterness, flavor and aroma from pellets than from whole flowers. -- They work for my equipment and my process. Part of this is because I have actually adapted and tuned for pellets rather than whole flowers, and some people have gone the other way and set up for flowers. Really, it's mainly down to personal preference and how you choose to set up. Some people say that they get a better flavor from whole hops, but I can't tell the difference. You can make great beer from either.
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Apr 18, 2013 20:50
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Fluo posted:Hello, I've just started finally to get into home brewing. I just have one question at the moment (may have a couple more in future). What is the pros and cons between whole hops vs hop pellets? I can't seem to find much on it and wondering what the differences were. I prefer pellets because they aren't as messy, and you don't lose as much wort to them, but honestly, I just buy whatever is in stock, sometimes all you can find of certain varieties is whole hops.
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Apr 18, 2013 20:52
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There really isn't a "best" per se. Pellets will pretty much dissolve and then sediment to the bottom whereas whole hops will float and soak up wort causing you to lose volume with your beer. Additionally, since pellets dissolve and thus have a vastly higher surface area then the whole whole hop cones, you can get more IBUs then from an equal volume of whole hops, but if you are dry hopping, the increased surface area means that a grassy/vegetable flavor can come through sooner. Long story short, 99% of the time it doesn't matter, there is nothing inherently wrong with either.
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Apr 18, 2013 20:55
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Daedalus Esquire posted:There really isn't a "best" per se. Pellets will pretty much dissolve and then sediment to the bottom whereas whole hops will float and soak up wort causing you to lose volume with your beer. Additionally, since pellets dissolve and thus have a vastly higher surface area then the whole whole hop cones, you can get more IBUs then from an equal volume of whole hops, but if you are dry hopping, the increased surface area means that a grassy/vegetable flavor can come through sooner. Oh cool, I actually didn't know about the volume thing. The only reason I buy one or the other is my HBS only have hops in one or the other, depending on which type. Though some pellets they do have in leaf form but only in giant bags.
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Apr 18, 2013 21:02
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Ah, cheers for the help guys! I think by the sounds of it pellets would be best for me, problem is at the moment whole hops seem to be in bigger varieties.  Think I try the some batches with the pellets but by the sounds of it if there is a type of hops that I need I'd get it in pellet form over whole hops.
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Apr 18, 2013 21:02
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Fluo posted:Ah, cheers for the help guys! Where do you order/buy from? (I'm also in the UK) I have found the same as you - thing is, when boiling I don't find a single thing wrong with whole hops. Sure, during dry hopping you get more flavo(u)r quicker from pellets, and lose more with flowers, but if you can't find something in one or the other, I would not worry about it. Just remember to keep them cold.
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Apr 18, 2013 22:14
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Kaiho posted:Where do you order/buy from? (I'm also in the UK) There is a 2 brew shops in Bristol that sales them, also from here. Where do you get yours? I don't know many good brew sites. 
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Apr 18, 2013 23:05
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Brewuk are pretty good.
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Apr 19, 2013 00:00
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Started my third attempt on Monday, Brewers Best Amber Ale kit. OG 1.053-1.054. Was bubbling pretty well up through the fermentation lock until yesterday, now its slowing way down, about once / minute. Going to check it out tomorrow and see what it looks like, take another SG reading before trying to plan a time to bottle it. Is there a significant difference in flavor if I rack into a secondary this weekend, which will be 6-8 days after fermentation, and let it sit in that for the next week or so, rather than simply proceeding to bottling next week?
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Apr 19, 2013 00:20
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No. It's possible that the beer would be slightly clearer if you use a secondary, but I've never noticed a difference when doing single-stage vs. two-stage fermentation.
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Apr 19, 2013 00:22
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Thanks, in that case I'll leave it where it is for another week and bottle it straight out of the bucket.
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Apr 19, 2013 00:33
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I do suggest using a bottling bucket, though. If you add priming sugar straight to your fermenter, you'll have to stir it in to get it distributed well, and you'll end up with a crapload of sediment in your bottles. Put your priming syrup in a sanitized bottling bucket, rack the beer in on top of it, and then bottle from there. But there's no need for a secondary fermenter to get good-tasting beer.
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Apr 19, 2013 00:38
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I greatly prefer pellets. The only reason they're annoying is that they're hard to separate from the wort in the boil if you do a lot of late hopping. That said, they're actually quite easy to rack from if you cold crash and dry hop the primary since they just sink to the bottom with the yeast. They also store better and have much more varieties available on the average.
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Apr 19, 2013 02:01
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Zhent posted:Started my third attempt on Monday, Brewers Best Amber Ale kit. OG 1.053-1.054. Was bubbling pretty well up through the fermentation lock until yesterday, now its slowing way down, about once / minute. Going to check it out tomorrow and see what it looks like, take another SG reading before trying to plan a time to bottle it. Why are you bottling so soon? Isn't it generally good practice to let it bulk condition (in primary or secondary) for a month or so before bottling? I'm new too (on my 4th batch), so really just curious...
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Apr 19, 2013 03:18
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new home, old colors, same Arsenal
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Angry Grimace posted:I greatly prefer pellets. The only reason they're annoying is that they're hard to separate from the wort in the boil if you do a lot of late hopping. Get something like this and you will have very little hop matter left in there at the end of the boil.
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Apr 19, 2013 03:34
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