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krushgroove posted:Thinning Great post, but I thought it was supposed to be the consistency of 2% milk? And for all you hair-splitters, no, skim and 2% have different consistencies so shut up 
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Apr 25, 2013 18:18
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Thanks guys I'll pick up the pack of adapters when I eventually get the compressor. I just wanted to make sure it would be ok.
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Apr 25, 2013 18:21
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As I said this morning this is how I magnetised pinned my Broadside: You can see the holes drilled in the gun arm and kinda see the pins sticking out of the shoulder joint. The missle arm you can kinda see the two pins on there as well. You can see where the lil magnet sits on the back part where the plamsa gun/missile pod would sit. I have finally started on my Hellbrute so I have got most of the red down now, moving onto the flesh. I am following buypainted's recipe. 
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Apr 25, 2013 18:27
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For the camouflage, did you put the blu-tack on a basecoat or just a primer? I was going to do splotchy style camouflage myself for some of my suits but if blu-tack doesn't lift paint, it'd be a drat sight easier than freehanding it.
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Apr 25, 2013 18:41
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ijyt posted:For the camouflage, did you put the blu-tack on a basecoat or just a primer? I was going to do splotchy style camouflage myself for some of my suits but if blu-tack doesn't lift paint, it'd be a drat sight easier than freehanding it. Yeah just blu tac on top of the primer. Make sure you let your primer dry properly. I leave mine for at least 24 hours.
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Apr 25, 2013 18:43
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Sole.Sushi posted:Great post, but I thought it was supposed to be the consistency of 2% milk? 2% is for brush painting. Skim is for airbrushing. 
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Apr 25, 2013 19:00
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TheBlobThing posted:I live in Scandinavia Is that... an old viking longship just hanging out in the background?
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Apr 25, 2013 19:22
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Its Scandinavia, their all over the place. its like castles in England, you can't go five feet without falling into a moat.
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Apr 25, 2013 19:36
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BULBASAUR posted:Is that... an old viking longship just hanging out in the background? It's part of the gated Viking reservation. If you venture beyond the fence, you're fair game for murdering barbarians.  No. Old viking longships are contained in climate controlled low-humidity museums, or they'll crumble to dust and toothpicks. It's a playground designed by an Italian architect who is inspired by Scandinavian culture. We live in a kind of newly built modern architecture reservation in Copenhagen, so lots of weird poo poo like that. Thanks for all the airbrush tips guys. My better half just accepted that I got an airbrush, on the conditions that I'd only use it when she was out (or, if I can get a silent compressor, after she's gone to bed). I'm looking forward to seeing your setup Hardcoil, that'll probably give me a couple of tips even though you probably have more space for it than me.
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Apr 25, 2013 19:39
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Hey krushgroove, will your guide to airbrushing also include brands of airbrush paint? There's Vallejo and Minitaire, sure, but there's other brands out there that people should/should not pick up.
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Apr 25, 2013 19:40
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TheBlobThing posted:It's part of the gated Viking reservation. If you venture beyond the fence, you're fair game for murdering barbarians. You don't need a silent compressor, for what it is worth. My regular ebay special Master brand airbrush compressor makes little enough noise that it isn't audible from the next room unless everything else (air conditioner, refrigerator, etc) are completely silent.
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Apr 25, 2013 20:21
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JoshTheStampede posted:2% is for brush painting. Skim is for airbrushing. Well, there is this; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsW-vN0_lHw&t=2814s
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Apr 25, 2013 21:27
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I wasn't being serious about milk consistencies - in fact I think the extreme detail people give to what exact sort of dairy product their paint should look like is a little silly.
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Apr 25, 2013 21:30
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Guys my paint is like cottage cheese, that's ok, right? If it makes a difference it smells more like Roquefort, though.
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Apr 25, 2013 21:42
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Quick crosspost from the Specialist Games thread: The full Warmaster army I used at Adepticon this year. I won Best Painted for the army, which made me very happy!   More pics on my blog if anyone is interested. berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Apr 25, 2013 |
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Apr 25, 2013 21:45
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Slimnoid posted:Hey krushgroove, will your guide to airbrushing also include brands of airbrush paint? There's Vallejo and Minitaire, sure, but there's other brands out there that people should/should not pick up. I hadn't really planned for it to be honest - the only brand the pros tend to stay away from (there are exceptions of course) is Citadel. JoshTheStampede posted:I wasn't being serious about milk consistencies - in fact I think the extreme detail people give to what exact sort of dairy product their paint should look like is a little silly. Yeah, RE: the paint consistency, I tried to say that skim milk is a guideline and it will vary depending on airbrush, needle size, air pressure and all sorts of things, so it's almost impossible to say with certainty that 'all brands of paint in all airbrushes must always be mixed to a viscosity of such-and-such density'. I'll go through the post again to try to clear that up, it's still a work in progress.
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Apr 25, 2013 21:48
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Ashcans posted:Guys my paint is like cottage cheese, that's ok, right? Aren't the new texture paints awesome?
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Apr 25, 2013 21:54
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berzerkmonkey posted:Quick crosspost from the Specialist Games thread: Darnit, I was sitting like 5 feet from you while you were setting up for one of your games. Your opponent remarked about how your army commander was better than his, and he asked if he was a Bloodthirster. Darnit, I wore my airbrushed SA logo shirt on Friday, but I must have had my sweatshirt on. I thought your army looked pretty awesome.
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Apr 25, 2013 22:06
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Anyone got any pics of sweet necrons hidden up their sleeves? Also looking for good tutorials on marbling effects. Can only find rubbish ones really.
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Apr 26, 2013 00:00
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More work on my Ork terrain  At first, I thought this building would be some sort of hut for the Boyz. As it came together though I felt it was too unimposing to be something proppa and Orky. To gather my thoughts I rigged up some tiny little grot dwellings from styrofoam and it hit me: turn this building in to the Runtherd Hut and have it preside over a town of grot buildings like a sort of mayor!    The Runtherd building is coming together nicely I think. I used the embossing rivet method Pilgrimski linked. I also hand cut out an Ork glyph for 'Runtherder' to hang above the door, since glyphs make everything more Orky. Expect lots of graffiti and checkers when it comes time to paint  Here is the earliest stages of "Runtsville"  Since I plan to make this terrain specifically desert themed, I had the buildings arranged around a water pump. Here is a detail shot of whats going to be going on in the kennel behind the slophouse  Terrain is fun to make. I've never really given it an honest effort before and I regret that. Now at least I'm being productive in between avoiding mould line removal duty.
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Apr 26, 2013 00:24
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dexefiend posted:Darnit, I was sitting like 5 feet from you while you were setting up for one of your games. Your opponent remarked about how your army commander was better than his, and he asked if he was a Bloodthirster.
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Apr 26, 2013 01:22
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JoshTheStampede posted:I wasn't being serious about milk consistencies - in fact I think the extreme detail people give to what exact sort of dairy product their paint should look like is a little silly. Ooooh. Yeah, sarcasm in text, etc. Carry on. These are loving Graboids from Tremors 2. Where did you get these? I must have them.
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Apr 26, 2013 02:54
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Sole.Sushi posted:Ooooh. Yeah, sarcasm in text, etc. Carry on. http://www.splinteredlightminis.com/cavelizards.html I bought 'em for use in 1/72 fantasy, but they are too squig-like to not use for a mini diorama 
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Apr 26, 2013 03:07
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Crosspostin from the specialist games thread: Here's my Marauders of Chaos warband for mordheim so far. Enjoy!   
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Apr 26, 2013 03:33
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Indolent Bastard posted:Aren't the new texture paints awesome? They're interesting. I gooped the grey than white texture paints onto my big gun wheels to dirty them up and the effect worked well, but I get the feeling you could make something similar for much much cheaper.  Edit: Seems I've accidentally bought a second dakka jet body. What am I going to do with two plane bodies? Wait... Two main...  Time to make an Orkheed P-38! thiswayliesmadness fucked around with this message at 08:03 on Apr 26, 2013 |
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Apr 26, 2013 05:06
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Purgey posted:http://www.splinteredlightminis.com/cavelizards.html Aww, they look completely different from the front. 
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Apr 26, 2013 08:01
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How do you guys paint stripes and hard edged lines on small models (like single stripes on space marine legs or hazard stripes on Iron Warriors). I'm having mixed results using masking tape (just too drat small to stick well).
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Apr 26, 2013 09:16
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BULBASAUR posted:How do you guys paint stripes and hard edged lines on small models (like single stripes on space marine legs or hazard stripes on Iron Warriors). I'm having mixed results using masking tape (just too drat small to stick well). Have you tried the high-quality masking tape like what auto detailers use to hand-paint pinstriping? or even just Tamiya masking tape would do. If you have an auto painting shop near you they will probably have big rolls of 3-10mm masking tape, a good hobby shop will have Tamiya tape or just find either online.
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Apr 26, 2013 09:21
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BULBASAUR posted:How do you guys paint stripes and hard edged lines on small models (like single stripes on space marine legs or hazard stripes on Iron Warriors). I'm having mixed results using masking tape (just too drat small to stick well). If uniformity isn't a major concern, then just try free-handing them. I gave up on using masking tape, as coiling it around stuff like chainswords, or cutting tiny pieces to make sure that stripes were aligning properly was a major nuisance. I sometimes had issues with ridges forming along tape edges, too, despite using fairly thin coats of paint. If you need perfect, hard-edged stripes then you're likely gonna be stuck fiddling with tape, unfortunately.
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Apr 26, 2013 10:25
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I haven't done any hazard stripes on my stuff but if it were small like a shoulder pad or sword I'd try it freehand first. For vehicles, I'd shoot the yellow, then varnish it, then lay the tape, then lay another piece butted up right to it, then a third piece butted up to the second piece and so on until you've covered everything and trim everything with a sharp hobby knife. Lift the 2nd, 4th, 6th and so on pieces, and that's where you put your black.
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Apr 26, 2013 11:05
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Do any of you know any stores that sell Simple Green? I live in New York City and I've checked a couple smaller places, but no luck. I'd like to avoid Amazon if possible, because I really want to paint this weekend and my Firewarriors are caked with lovely primer.
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Apr 26, 2013 16:02
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Dirty Job posted:Do any of you know any stores that sell Simple Green? I live in New York City and I've checked a couple smaller places, but no luck. I'd like to avoid Amazon if possible, because I really want to paint this weekend and my Firewarriors are caked with lovely primer. My local supermarket has it, but also big box stores like Target or Wal-Mart probably do. Maybe Home Depot?
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Apr 26, 2013 16:03
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Dirty Job posted:Do any of you know any stores that sell Simple Green? I live in New York City and I've checked a couple smaller places, but no luck. I'd like to avoid Amazon if possible, because I really want to paint this weekend and my Firewarriors are caked with lovely primer. If you want to use Super Clean try most auto parts places, or big box stores.  http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3210214&userid=126494&perpage=40&pagenumber=9#post412328648 Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 16:08 on Apr 26, 2013 |
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Apr 26, 2013 16:05
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JoshTheStampede posted:My local supermarket has it, but also big box stores like Target or Wal-Mart probably do. Maybe Home Depot? Home Depot most certainly has it.
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Apr 26, 2013 16:09
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BULBASAUR posted:How do you guys paint stripes and hard edged lines on small models (like single stripes on space marine legs or hazard stripes on Iron Warriors). I'm having mixed results using masking tape (just too drat small to stick well). SRM to the painting thread, SRM!
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Apr 26, 2013 16:11
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Dirty Job posted:Do any of you know any stores that sell Simple Green? I live in New York City and I've checked a couple smaller places, but no luck. I'd like to avoid Amazon if possible, because I really want to paint this weekend and my Firewarriors are caked with lovely primer. The Home Depot/Lowes near me have it and I'm out on Long Island so it shouldn't be any different in the city. e:f,b.
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Apr 26, 2013 16:35
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Dirty Job posted:Do any of you know any stores that sell Simple Green? I live in New York City and I've checked a couple smaller places, but no luck. I'd like to avoid Amazon if possible, because I really want to paint this weekend and my Firewarriors are caked with lovely primer. I will always recommend Dawn Power Dissolver over anything for striping models. You can strip models in only about 15 minutes of soaking it. But get some kind of gloves when you do it, or you'll hand will remind you all week why. 
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Apr 26, 2013 16:47
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Progress continues on Runtsville! Its much easier now that I've got the process for construction nailed down.
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Apr 26, 2013 17:34
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It's hard working with Lord of the Rings models, the scale is really different from Warhammer. But the models are great, bless the Perry brothers. Here is a no-name dwarf (Bifur) as a tester.  
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Apr 26, 2013 19:48
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Khorne Flakes posted:I will always recommend Dawn Power Dissolver over anything for striping models. You can strip models in only about 15 minutes of soaking it. But get some kind of gloves when you do it, or you'll hand will remind you all week why. I just bought a bottle of this stuff earlier this week and I can testify that it's absurdly strong, much faster than simple green, and will also help itself to your fingerprints if you don't wear gloves. Stuff looks like napalm jelly if you pour it out of the bottle. It will get pretty much anywhere a toothbrush can reach factory fresh, even on plastic.
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Apr 26, 2013 21:58
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