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crazyfish posted:I can't think of a saison that doesn't have at least some wheat as part of its malt bill. Saison Dupont. As far as wheat in saisons, I've only ever used it in small quantities, but my last saison was 60% pilsner, 20% rye, 20% wheat with tri color peppercorns and it owned.
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May 4, 2013 23:26
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fullroundaction posted:Saison Dupont. Yeah, just Pilsener in Dupont as I recall. I did a 100% brett saison with 5% spelt that came through very nicely. A little more subdued spiciness than rye.
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May 5, 2013 00:35
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Thanks for the advice, I was already looking at those ratios, so it sounds good to me. I have only ever brewed pilsener malt saisons, honestly didn't know that they are traditionally made with wheat, learn something new everyday! Any off the wall things you guys have done with saison (or some of those far out belgian strains) that turned out pretty awesome?
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May 5, 2013 01:41
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bengy81 posted:Any off the wall things you guys have done with saison (or some of those far out belgian strains) that turned out pretty awesome? I don't know how off the wall it is, but Northern Brewer's Saison de Noel is amazing.
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May 5, 2013 01:45
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bengy81 posted:Thanks for the advice, I was already looking at those ratios, so it sounds good to me. I have only ever brewed pilsener malt saisons, honestly didn't know that they are traditionally made with wheat, learn something new everyday! Dude in the club brews his in a used white wine barrel. They are pretty loving spectacular.
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May 5, 2013 02:15
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Also rye and saison yeast are a match made in heaven
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May 5, 2013 02:31
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I'm seeing some significant chill haze in my APA. What's the goon favorite fining so I can prevent this in the future? I do partial grain recipes.
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May 5, 2013 02:38
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Irish Moss, and then keep it cold for a few weeks after it's fully carbonated.
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May 5, 2013 02:54
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bengy81 posted:Thanks for the advice, I was already looking at those ratios, so it sounds good to me. I have only ever brewed pilsener malt saisons, honestly didn't know that they are traditionally made with wheat, learn something new everyday! Saisons are traditionally made with literally whatever the person had on hand at the time, be it barley, wheat, rye, or otherwise. It's the yeast that defines the style, not really the grains. As far as "wacky", I recently made what I call "michelob ultra saison". 3 lbs BIAB leftover grains, 30 minute boil with .5 oz leftover perle. Went from 1.030 to 1.002, and is my new session/pool beer.
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May 5, 2013 03:00
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Rye is sooo three years ago man.
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May 5, 2013 03:49
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Cpt.Wacky posted:
Yeah the temps are something you'll have to dial in a bit with BIAB though I've never really noticed a difference between a) putting the water in, walking it up to a temp, then mashing in and b) adding the water, adding the grains, and walking them up together. Given that you're aiming for a rest at 122, maybe just add h2o + grains, slowly bring it to 122 to where you know you can stabilize it there, kill heat for the protein rest, then bring it to 154 or whatever you're aiming for and mash for 60. I always do 90-minute mashes with a mash out at 170, but if you like your results without a mash out, go for it. Re: direct firing the mash, just remain conscious of your temps and keep stirring. Also get a cake rack or something else to act as a spacer between the bottom of the bag and the pot. I like my mash paddle because I trust it better to find any dough balls in the mash, it's long so I'm never hunched over, and since it's wood I don't concern myself with it potentially scratching the pot, creating a home for nasties even after cleaning.
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May 5, 2013 04:19
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My favorite thing about Saisons is that there's really no way to brew one wrong. It's a very ambiguous style as far as recipe formulation is concerned. The big deal about them is the yeast and pils malt. I've never seen a saison without pils malt, then again I can't say I've looked excruciatingly hard. This is my saison I plan to brew. I may forgoe the Saaz and do Sorachi Ace straight up.
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May 5, 2013 05:50
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Jo3sh posted:In general, I like to keep crystal malt to 1 pound or less per five gallons of beer - tending toward less in the darker colors. Also tending toward less as the gravity rises - a pound in a 1.045 beer is just fine, but a pound in a 1.070 beer may be too much. Say what? I've never heard this rule. edit: Never in my 2 months of experience. Seriously I've been trying to look at recipes as much as possible and I've never noticed this.
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May 5, 2013 05:53
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wattershed posted:Yeah the temps are something you'll have to dial in a bit with BIAB though I've never really noticed a difference between a) putting the water in, walking it up to a temp, then mashing in and b) adding the water, adding the grains, and walking them up together. Given that you're aiming for a rest at 122, maybe just add h2o + grains, slowly bring it to 122 to where you know you can stabilize it there, kill heat for the protein rest, then bring it to 154 or whatever you're aiming for and mash for 60. I always do 90-minute mashes with a mash out at 170, but if you like your results without a mash out, go for it. Thanks. I'm going to start with all the grains dumped in and brought up to temp since that seems much simpler. If I don't like it or I want to experiment later then I can get more complicated. I think I'll get the paddle too since I was thinking of stainless steel spoon on SS kettle, but the new one is aluminum.  One more question, do you get your grains double-milled for BIAB or just ask for a finer grind?
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May 5, 2013 07:07
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Thanks. I'm going to start with all the grains dumped in and brought up to temp since that seems much simpler. If I don't like it or I want to experiment later then I can get more complicated. I think I'll get the paddle too since I was thinking of stainless steel spoon on SS kettle, but the new one is aluminum. probably just do a double grind, the shops around me at least tend to not like to adjust their mills too much.
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May 5, 2013 07:11
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Had one of those "drat it feels good to be a homebrewer" nights. We threw a big housewarming party at our new place. Had a cooler full of commercial beer that barely got touched. Kicked two corny kegs of homebrew, though  Well, feels good except now my keezer is empty
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May 5, 2013 07:40
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I bottled yesterday, and I want to hang on to the yeast cake til Saturday. I pitched a portion of it into the jar I use for starters to encourage some reproduction, left overnight and today popped it in the fridge with the intention of making a fresh starter from it on Wednesday. Is that reasonable? I haven't re-used yeast before.
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May 5, 2013 13:17
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Saint Darwin posted:Say what? I've never heard this rule. A lot of recipes have too much crystal, IMO. My beer got better when I backed off on it. Here are my latest 6 batches, all ten gallon batches: 1.071, 1 pound of crystal 1.081, no crystal 1.068, 1 pound 1.044, 2 pounds 1.052, no crystal at all 1.080, 1 pound (today's batch)
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May 5, 2013 13:37
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I'm still new to brewing myself, but I don't see any correlation to OG and amount of crystal used at all. In-fact if anything you'd want less in a lower gravity beer unless you really wanted something with a strong caramel presence. It also depends on the style. I don't understand at all, though, how it would make sense to use less crystal malt in a higher ABV beer, especially since you should be going by percentages of the grain.
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May 5, 2013 15:10
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High-gravity beers attenuate much less and tend to finish sweet anyway. Low-gravity beers tend to attenuate more, and finish dry. In the second case, the crystal can help provide some residual sweetness and body; in the first, you want to avoid a syrupy, cloying finish.
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May 5, 2013 15:18
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I don't know enough about brewing science to argue with you on the technical aspects, but I will say that you're wrong in going by weight when considering how much crystal to add. It depends highly on the style. An ESB is going to have anywhere from 10%-20% crystal as will a scotch ale, while an American pale ale can have none. The OG has little to do with how much weight you're throwing it, it's all relative and should be based by % of the grist. Even so, I can't imagine how throwing 2 pounds of crystal into a 1.045 beer can really come out that great. That's got to be at least 30% of the grain bill. Edit: It will be ~20%-25% which is certainly more than I would like to use in most beer. I decided to read through Brewing Classic Styles at some recipes that would be high in crystal malt. In the American Barleywine section Jamil uses 2 pounds of crystal in a 1.115og beer, not including another half pound of unfermentables, the crystal adding up to 10% of the grist. Meanwhile in his ESB, he uses .75 pounds, totaling up to 8% of the grist. I would be very interested in seeing how your 1.044 beer with 2 pounds of crystal came out as I brewed an ESB with 15% of crystal being the grist and it was far too much caramel. Midorka fucked around with this message at 15:40 on May 5, 2013 |
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May 5, 2013 15:28
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Midorka posted:Even so, I can't imagine how throwing 2 pounds of crystal into a 1.045 beer can really come out that great. That's got to be at least 30% of the grain bill. 13%, actually - remember I do 10 gallon batches: http://hopville.com/recipe/1690135 It's not that I am going by weight alone, I am just saying that 1 pound per 5 gallons is a rule of thumb that works well for me and the beers I brew. I would be cautious, as you appear to be, about recipes that have a high percentage of crystal - and, further, I tend to use less crystal as gravity rises.
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May 5, 2013 15:34
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Jo3sh posted:High-gravity beers attenuate much less and tend to finish sweet anyway. Low-gravity beers tend to attenuate more, and finish dry. In the second case, the crystal can help provide some residual sweetness and body; in the first, you want to avoid a syrupy, cloying finish. I guess along these lines, I have no idea what the # on the Crystal means. Is lower or higher sweeter?
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May 5, 2013 15:35
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Kill all the crystal beers. I think we had a similar conversation about a month ago and I came away from it still basically hating crystal and wanting to warn everyone about it, especially for extract beers, but reluctantly understanding mashing it takes away the unfermentable cloyness that turned me off when using too much crystal in extract beers. Still got to watch the crystal, especially in extract.
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May 5, 2013 15:37
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Saint Darwin posted:I guess along these lines, I have no idea what the # on the Crystal means. Is lower or higher sweeter? Neither. The number indicates color. 120L is darker than 40L. As a side effect of the varying amount of caramelization, fermentability and flavor also change. Darker crystal tends to be less fermentable and has a stronger caramel flavor, but I would not necessarily characterize either light or dark crystal as sweeter than the other. E: I guess that means that using dark crystal in a beer could yield a sweeter beer than one made with light crystal - but I don't think of the crystal itself as being more or less sweet depending on its color.
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May 5, 2013 15:38
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Jo3sh posted:13%, actually - remember I do 10 gallon batches: Thanks for the correction. You're right, 13% is perfectly acceptable. I just think that everything should be looked at as a percentage, but everyone has their own methods that work for them. Edit: I will keep your 1 pound per 5 gallon sentiment in mind though. Midorka fucked around with this message at 15:47 on May 5, 2013 |
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May 5, 2013 15:45
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Midorka posted:I would be very interested in seeing how your 1.044 beer with 2 pounds of crystal came out as I brewed an ESB with 15% of crystal being the grist and it was far too much caramel. Well, it got raves at the last club meeting, and the shop owner says he's going to feature it as the recipe of the month. The club president asked for the recipe and ordered a sack of the base malt while his glass was still wet. I don't think it's very true to style, and I don't really enter competitions, so I don't have any ribbons or anything for it, but it's really drat good beer and I could drink it every day. Jo3sh fucked around with this message at 16:16 on May 5, 2013 |
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May 5, 2013 15:46
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ExtremistCow posted:Yeah, just Pilsener in Dupont as I recall. Which Brett did you use? And did you go usual saison high temps? This seems like a great idea.
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May 5, 2013 15:51
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I'm going to brew a crystal-heavy beer just to see what all the fuss is about. Speaking of crystal, I'm going to be brewing up a hoppy brown ale soon, and it's my first foray into the style outside of kits. I plan on mashing high because I want it to retain a good backbone. How's this look? http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/41224/liberty-brown-ale
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May 5, 2013 15:57
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Daedalus Esquire posted:Which Brett did you use? And did you go usual saison high temps? This seems like a great idea. WLP 644 Brett B. Trois, one of the White Labs limited series. I was shooting for more dryness and spiciness (a little coriander and orange peel) than typical saison esters, so it was a normal 65-68º ferment. 100% Brett is very clean, so you need to make sure you have other flavors there.
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May 5, 2013 17:54
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Through either laziness or inattention (or ridiculous levels of dry hopping), I occasionally end up with some dry hop material in my keg leading to a clogged poppet. Any goons have experience with using a Surescreen or something similar on the dip tube?
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May 5, 2013 19:49
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ChickenArise posted:Through either laziness or inattention (or ridiculous levels of dry hopping), I occasionally end up with some dry hop material in my keg leading to a clogged poppet. Any goons have experience with using a Surescreen or something similar on the dip tube? Wrap a nylon or muslin bag on your siphon. Our some cheese cloth.
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May 5, 2013 20:21
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Today I used a 2 gallon kit I had lying around and used this silly little method of using a grocery store water jug as the ferm vessel. No idea how well it will work but the amount of effort is essentially 0 other than mixing/aerating the wort.
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May 5, 2013 20:43
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fullroundaction posted:I'm going to brew a crystal-heavy beer just to see what all the fuss is about. This sounds good. The only thing I might change is to replace some of the crystal with chocolate or pale chocolate malt. Depends on if you'd rather have a little roastiness (chocolate) or raisiny sweetness (crystal 120).
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May 5, 2013 23:24
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Netsky posted:This sounds good. The only thing I might change is to replace some of the crystal with chocolate or pale chocolate malt. Depends on if you'd rather have a little roastiness (chocolate) or raisiny sweetness (crystal 120). Thanks, I've made the adjustment! Definitely going for something a bit more roasty. I might also want to add a small amount of spice since it's going to be a Fall beer, but I can't really nail exactly what I'm looking for after doing a few tea experiments. Got some whole allspice which might do the trick, but I don't think I've had any beers that were both hoppy AND spiced so it might not be worth the batch to find out if it works. Just went in to check on how some of my sours are coming along and ...  Looking good, Lambic! And now how about my funky Flanders   
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May 6, 2013 00:44
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Love the thread! I just recently got into home brewing and I'm having a blast. I've made a couple of wheat beers so far. I bottled a hefeweizen this weekend and moved a strawberry hefe into secondary as well. With the temperature starting to rise, I decided I needed a freezer to even maintain ale temperatures. I ordered one of those STC-1000 thermostats, and hoping I don't gently caress up the wiring. I'm really excited about the strawberry hefeweizen, the smell coming out of the airlock is amazing. Here's a couple of labels I made for my first two brews:  This one is just a Blue Moon clone. A proof of concept for my wife who loves blue moon. After that success, it was easier to convince her of the additional bottles, buckets, freezers, thermostats and such to keep two brews going at once with proper temperature control.  A hefeweizen I'm a little concerned about how my strawberry hefeweizen is going to turn out. I only boiled the hops for about 20 minutes total. I told myself that it would ensure the strawberry aroma and flavor wouldn't be overpowered by the bitterness, but when I calculated it out, it looks like the beer will only have about 5-7 IBUs. So, it may be pretty sweet. After a week in primary, I bought 7 pounds of fresh strawberries, pureed, pasteurized, then froze them. I put the frozen blocks in a steeping bag and racked the beer on top of them and plan on leaving them in secondary for at least 2 weeks. I'll be sure and let you guys know if it ends up being drinkable.
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May 6, 2013 01:08
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Are those labels printed on the bottles?
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May 6, 2013 01:16
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withak posted:Are those labels printed on the bottles? Nah, it's adhesive vinyl I cut using a stencil cutting machine. They were a pain in the rear end, and I'm gonna do regular paper labels for my next batch. This machine: http://www.silhouetteamerica.com/?page=shop&cat=1 Edit: I was also thinking of using glass etching cream to see what it looks like, I'll post it when I give it a try. MisterFusion fucked around with this message at 01:24 on May 6, 2013 |
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May 6, 2013 01:21
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Welp, I brewed my first batch ever. I went with the California Common recipe in the Brewing Classic Styles book with the only change being that I accidentally used regular chocolate malt for steeping instead of pale chocolate malt. In 12 hours or so I've already got considerable bubbling, which makes me feel better while I'm busy freaking out about whether or not I already infected it. My current fermentation chilling system (I'm supposed to keep it at 62 while ambient is closer to 73 here) is a big bucket with water and the occasional ice pack + wet t-shirt and fan. I can't seem to find one of those tall Ice Cube coolers that will hold temperature more reliably. What's the next best suggestion?
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May 6, 2013 02:42
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Glottis posted:Welp, I brewed my first batch ever. I went with the California Common recipe in the Brewing Classic Styles book with the only change being that I accidentally used regular chocolate malt for steeping instead of pale chocolate malt. In 12 hours or so I've already got considerable bubbling, which makes me feel better while I'm busy freaking out about whether or not I already infected it. what yeast did you use? A lot of California Common's should be brewed ~ 70 degrees. 62 will be just fine with any yeast imo, it might have a slightly different flavor profile though.
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May 6, 2013 04:08
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