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Can you batch sparge with a false bottom?
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May 12, 2013 00:05
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e: I'm an idiot and can't read.Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Can you batch sparge with a false bottom? Yes. Completely unrelated: has anyone ever had or made a good fall/autumn themed wheat beer? fullroundaction fucked around with this message at 00:17 on May 12, 2013 |
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May 12, 2013 00:11
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Saint Darwin posted:
2.3 volumes CO2 @ 70F is 26PSI (Beersmith) e: fullroundaction posted:e: I'm an idiot and can't read. Obvious answer: Pumpkin Wheat. Although I highly dislike "pumpkin beer", so if it were me? I'd brew something with a splash of light/medium caramel malts and VERY lightly spiced. Belgian strain, nothing too 'forward'. Heck, maybe even a dash of buckwheat or molasses. I may do this... e2: ooo! or cinnamon and/or some apple juice... Jacobey000 fucked around with this message at 02:36 on May 12, 2013 |
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May 12, 2013 00:16
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Anyone have a good Dubbel recipe they're interested in sharing?
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May 12, 2013 02:46
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Jacobey000 posted:2.3 volumes CO2 @ 70F is 26PSI (Beersmith) Guess I should get on Beersmith...I only want 1.8ish as I just brewed a stout. I put it at 15 and did a few half glass draws (mostly to see if solids came out) and carbonation wise it was good. It still needs at least a week at its current point to be drinkable though 
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May 12, 2013 06:26
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fullroundaction posted:Just got done a 7 hour double brew day. Kill me. On the plus side, The first and only time I did this I vowed I'd never do it again. gently caress that.
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May 12, 2013 08:38
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fullroundaction posted:e: I'm an idiot and can't read. Sounds like a Weizenbock with a little spice, although I imagine a straight up Weizenbock would suffice.
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May 12, 2013 17:28
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drat you, S-04  
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May 12, 2013 20:35
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Those airlocks seem like a pain to clean. I like the bubbler ones personally.
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May 12, 2013 21:01
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LeeMajors posted:Anyone have a good Dubbel recipe they're interested in sharing? I've gotten a few good comments about mine. (I do 2.5 gallon batches, so double everything for 5. This is also scaled to 75% efficiency.) OG 1.065 FG 1.008 (7.5% ABV) 26 IBU 16L 4 lb Castle Belgian Pilsener 1/2 lb Castle CaraMunich (45L) 1/2 lb Weyermann Light Wheat Malt 1lb Candi Syrup D-45 (Mash at 149.) 1oz Hallertau (4.1%AA) @ 60" for 26 IBU Wyeast 1214 (Belgian Abbey, Chimay) - I pitch a whole pack, so make a starter or use two. I pitch at 65 and let it rise naturally, usually up to 75 or a little higher. It's done in a week or two, and then I bottle condition to 2.5 vol.
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May 12, 2013 21:22
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Midorka posted:Those airlocks seem like a pain to clean. I like the bubbler ones personally. That they are, and that's exactly why I switched exclusively to three-piece after my first brew nearly blew its lid. I keep one soaking in the starsan bucket until things settle down so if it plugs up I can swap immediately (still haven't bought the hose to do a blowoff tube), then it's only a quick rinse of the plugged one and I toss it in the bucket to now be the spare.
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May 12, 2013 21:51
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Counterpoint: I've never not lost the floating piece in the 3 piecers. All the cool kids are doing blowoff tubes for everything these days aren't they?
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May 12, 2013 21:58
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I haven't used a blowoff for maybe 7-8 months  I'd like to attribute it to lowering my fermentation temperature, but I don't really know.
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May 12, 2013 22:17
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Blow off tube and then when things settle down one of those one piece locks pictured above because it's easier to see what's going on at a glance with one of those than with a three piece.
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May 12, 2013 22:19
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Definitely needed a blowoff tube for the last one. We'll see if it's called for on this IPA.
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May 12, 2013 22:48
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I'm seriously considering dropping airlocks altogether and instead just rubberbanding a doubled-up paint strainer bag on top of my carboys. I've been thinking about this ever since I read that article in beer advocate about how certain beers (saisons and some bocks were mentioned) do better without the pressure. I'd have to imagine that EVERY beer would do better without the pressure, so long as you have a clean environment. I wouldn't do it for my bretts or sours since I don't need that kind of airborne problem in my life.
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May 12, 2013 23:21
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By my calculation, an inch or two of water in an airlock can only give you less than 0.1 psi. Is that enough pressure to matter?
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May 12, 2013 23:30
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withak posted:By my calculation, an inch or two of water in an airlock can only give you less than 0.1 psi. Is that enough pressure to matter? I don't know, nerd, can 0.psi through an airlock and bung off a carboy and across the room? That wasn't sarcastic, I actually don't know anything (about anything).
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May 13, 2013 00:00
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fullroundaction posted:I don't know, nerd, can 0.psi through an airlock and bung off a carboy and across the room? If the airlock is blocked then the pressure is higher. If it is bubbling normally then the pressure can't be very high.
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May 13, 2013 00:06
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Look at my phone grammar. Oof. I've had airlocks get pushed off even if they were (also) bubbling as normal. But yeah I'm willing to bet ones that get thrown are because of them being blocked up. Either way, I'd have to imagine the pressure buildup can't be HELPING in any way, right?
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May 13, 2013 00:24
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Midorka posted:Those airlocks seem like a pain to clean. I like the bubbler ones personally. I use both kinds but the s locks are easier to see what's up with one glance. They are definitely harder to clean though -was not expecting this amount of activity 16 hrs from pitching! Higher temps in my house, S-04 giving no fucks plus extra oxygenation (got my exercise shaking this one) led to my misfortune. 
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May 13, 2013 00:25
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Ugh. I suck at all grain. Did a fly sparge and everything and only got 62% efficiency. Learned a hell of a lot though, like keeping much more than the required amount of water on boil so I can regulate the temperature as required. I think next time I'm going to batch sparge, that looks easier and screw spending 90 minutes watching water trickle. What are the biggest contributors to efficiency? Temperature control?
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May 13, 2013 01:10
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Syrinxx posted:Higher temps in my house, S-04 giving no fucks plus extra oxygenation (got my exercise shaking this one) led to my misfortune. Shaking it a whole bunch and 'kinda' basically is the same. With the amount of o2 in the air you are likely to get the same form just pouring through a strainer or pouring it 'hard' into the bucket/fermenter. Which isn't to knock what you are doing, but to inform those starting out. Jacobey000 fucked around with this message at 02:03 on May 13, 2013 |
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May 13, 2013 01:49
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I did my first non-solo brew on Saturday, making the BIAB witbier posted earlier, and it was great to have help the whole time. Today I realized what top cropping yeast actually means since I left the sample in the sample tube on my counter. It's fermenting in a standard white bucket (6 gallons?) and the final volume seemed a little over 5 gallons leaving not a lot of headspace. It's already rigged with a blow-off tube. Should I be worried about the lack of headspace? Would it be wise to split it into two buckets?
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May 13, 2013 02:36
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Daedalus Esquire posted:Some of the sour bugs like complex starches. Bingo. If it is bugs, I'll use a mix. If it is just yeast, I'll use molasses + yeast nutrient.
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May 13, 2013 03:33
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Ugh. I suck at all grain. Did a fly sparge and everything and only got 62% efficiency. Learned a hell of a lot though, like keeping much more than the required amount of water on boil so I can regulate the temperature as required. I think next time I'm going to batch sparge, that looks easier and screw spending 90 minutes watching water trickle. What are the biggest contributors to efficiency? Temperature control? Batch sparging is easy, just make sure to split it into two batch sparges and stir after you've added each. I generally mash at 1.3 quarts to get a slightly thick mash. After that I split the batch sparge and get it to about boiling. I add half of it and stir for a bit to make sure the heat is evenly distributed to loosen the sugars and stop conversion. I close the tun for 5 minutes, vorlauf, and run off. Repeat for second. As for efficiency, PH and grain crush are the two biggest contributors to efficiency from my experiences.
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May 13, 2013 05:32
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Alright, I am pulling a four batch brew day this Tuesday. I haven't yet purchased an all-grain set up, so I am rolling extract. I was wondering if you gentlemen would take a look at the recipes, give me some inputs, and then counsel me on (as a beginner) what I need to get two kegs, get them in my fridge, and make them dispense beer correctly. Questions like ball or pin? Cheap and easy? Proper CO2 dispensing? Help! Recipes: Pliny Clone (taken from Vinnie: https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/attachments/0000/6351/doubleIPA.pdf ) 10 lbs LME 1.5 lbs corn sugar .6 lbs carapils, .6 lbs crystal 40 - steeped in 1 gallon @ 165 for 30 minutes 3.5 oz Columbus @ 90 .75 oz Columbus @ 45 1 oz Simcoe @ 30 1 oz Centennial, 2.5 oz Simcoe @ 0 Pitching with 1056 (one in yeast starter, second packet for giggles) 2 weeks primary - into secondary for 14 days with two additions First, 1 oz ea of Columbus, Centennial, and Simcoe @ start of secondary Second, .25 oz of Columbus, Centennial, and Simcoe @ 5 days to go I have done this recipe before with excellent success, looking forward to it again. Pliny Clone w/ Mango Same recipe and hop additions as above, but adding 4 lbs of mango to secondary. Second attempt at this beer, first time was a mishmash of ingredients and turned out like IPA heaven. Supplication Clone - two separate five gallon batches from same boil. 18 lbs LME 2 lbs Caramel 40, 1 lbs Special B, .5 lbs ea Chocolate and Carafa III, 3 lbs of Vienna. Steeped in 6 gallons @ 155 for 30 minutes 3.5 oz Styrian Golding @ 60 .5 oz Styrian @ 10 Pitching with WLP 530, two each batch. One will be started, second for fun. (I love yeast) Primary is two weeks, moving to secondary on top of two oz. of oak (boiled in wine) and 4 lbs of cherries. Pitching with Brett. Letting sit for two months in secondary, dropping in sour mix (WLP 655) - letting it go for 6-18 months. I absolutely love Supplication and am attempting to emulate it for the first time in two separate batches. Any thoughts? Ideas on what you would do differently?
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May 13, 2013 05:38
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You're spending a lot more money on yeast than you need to. Instead of 4 vials (for fun?) you could use 1 vial for both batches and make a huge starter from it.
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May 13, 2013 12:48
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For the pressure talk commercial breweries ferment under pressure and their beers seem to do fine.
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May 13, 2013 13:32
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Ive got some posts to catch up on, but in the meantime, I need some help! So last night I brewed a Lambic mead as follows: This is split into two 1 gallon batches. At this stage its pretty simple. per Gallon: ~1.7 lbs honey water to one gallon 1/2 tsp yest nutrient Gravity 1.065 WYeast Lambic Blend (8 months since manufacture date) Split between the two one gallon batches. I followed the instructions per the packet. There wasn't a ton of swelling but from what I understand this was okay? Also when I shook it I could here it fizzing, like a bottle of soda, so I figured it was good enough. This is baby's first sour anything and I was worried since this morning there was no airlock activity or krausen or anything. I'm not sure If I should pitch more yeast (regular wine yeast) if there's nothing going by the time I get home; or if these type of sour mixes have extended lag times. So I guess my questions in a more organized and less frantic format are these. 1. Has anyone used the WYeast Lambic blend, and experienced longer lag times or slower starts 2. At what point would you consider the point of no return and pitch a new standard wine yeast (Im thinking lalvin D-47) 2a. Will adding new yeast to ferment out the honey effect the bugs ability to sour things? I will be adding strawberries later. 3.If the yeast was not viable enough from the WYeast packet, do you think the Lambic, Brett, and Peddo, bugs are okay in there? Thanks in advance guys!
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May 13, 2013 14:13
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Josh Wow posted:For the pressure talk commercial breweries ferment under pressure and their beers seem to do fine. I feel like much of the homebrew discussion about technique tends to revolve around these specters of off-flavors, and what creates them. A lot of times there is a simpler explanation of another deficiency in technique (mash pH, water ions, mash temp, fermentation temp) that is more to blame than like HSA, pressurized fermentation, tannins, what-have-you. It's interesting to watch. Much of these controls at home are tenuous at best. Then you see big breweries and their processes are very simple and just have narrow tolerance of those particular variables that are so hard to get right at home. But homebrewers will go out of their way to blame those other problems. I was really guilty of it at first, but I got to a point where my buddies and I simplified everything and clamped down on those variables and our beer quality skyrocketed.
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May 13, 2013 14:20
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fullroundaction posted:You're spending a lot more money on yeast than you need to. Instead of 4 vials (for fun?) you could use 1 vial for both batches and make a huge starter from it. Probably a solid plan. I am always terrified of under pitching. How long would you recommend on a starter that size? Most of my starters are 24 hours.
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May 13, 2013 14:46
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Aopeth posted:Probably a solid plan. I am always terrified of under pitching. How long would you recommend on a starter that size? Most of my starters are 24 hours. I do sequential starters using this website. Works really well. http://yeastcalc.com/
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May 13, 2013 14:49
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Marshmallow Blue posted:Ive got some posts to catch up on, but in the meantime, I need some help!
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May 13, 2013 15:25
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I don't know that specific blend but it may not even have sacc in it. Could be Brett L. Plus the standard bacteria, which all will have a much longer lag time. My oud brune is just starting to form a pellicle and its been sitting since February. I had two other sours that never formed one and appeared as if they never actually fermented but they did, working with sours doesn't always give you the same visible cues you expect from a regular beer.
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May 13, 2013 15:40
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Marshmallow Blue posted:Ive got some posts to catch up on, but in the meantime, I need some help! How long is that going to take? I really, really should start doing some meads but beyond the 'short mead' packages I can buy at the Renn Faire which say they take 10 days (and unknown quality), every other recipe I've seen has said 8 months iirc.
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May 13, 2013 15:42
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Thanks for the relief guys, I'm pretty used to my dry yeast quick start-up ferments. Looks like pack I pitched has "a Belgian style ale strain, a sherry strain, two Brettanomyces strains, a Lactobacillus culture, and a Pediococcus culture" Just to clear things up this is a mead, but I'm sure in regards to visible signs it may be a different beast entirely. What signs should I be looking for in this? Is there likely going to be a Krausen, or will it jump to pellicle / nothing and ferment away slowly? @ St. Darwin So this is kind of a two birds with one stone project. It is an exercise in sour mead-making, which has been done; however not often. So I'm trying to really get a good base for them while the idea is relatively untested compared to beer. It is also an exercise in patience, as this will hopefully be able to show me how much better a mead can be after a year than the normal 5 months or so that I do, as sours are supposed to take at least around a year or so. Thanks for the reassurance guys, I figured I needed to relax don't worry, etc. This batch was a few new ideas put together and I felt suddenly in-experienced again. My first sour, My first non-dry yeast. And it was two separate musts which is always a little more work.
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May 13, 2013 16:09
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So I just bought a picnic tap kegging set up, and I've decided to throw a root beer in there first just to play around with it. Might as well, since the o-rings reak of soda and will have to be replaced anyway. What size are the 5 replacement o-rings that I need? I've googled it, but can't seem to find a straight answer.... just people throwing out part numbers and arguing over silicone vs whatever else.
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May 13, 2013 16:37
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O-rings most likely aren't an avenue where you will save money by buying them individually at Home Depot, just buy a replacement set online or from you LHBS. They are literally three dollars.
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May 13, 2013 17:23
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Today I realized what top cropping yeast actually means since I left the sample in the sample tube on my counter. It's fermenting in a standard white bucket (6 gallons?) and the final volume seemed a little over 5 gallons leaving not a lot of headspace. It's already rigged with a blow-off tube. Should I be worried about the lack of headspace? Would it be wise to split it into two buckets? Nothing coming up the blow-off tube yet as of this morning (~36 hours since pitching) so I guess I'll take a chance on it. Saint Darwin posted:How long is that going to take? I really, really should start doing some meads but beyond the 'short mead' packages I can buy at the Renn Faire which say they take 10 days (and unknown quality), every other recipe I've seen has said 8 months iirc. You can get something drinkable in 3 months if you pay attention to nutrients and temperature, and pitch enough healthy yeast. Most people end up with rocket fuel mead because they don't do any of that and it takes 6-12 months to age out. Of course your properly made mead will get better with more aging too.
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May 13, 2013 18:17
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