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Roundboy posted:3oz of medium toast american oak cubes, 3 whole vanilla beans, and a wyeast cider yeast for future use bought. All I need to do is pick up a burbon on the way home and soak everything until the weekend, and lots of tasting to hope i dont overdo it Just don't soak the yeast in the bourbon yeah?  . Also are you adding the boos to the cider when you're done? Otherwise the vanilla will be all in the bourbon and not where you need it. Unless you're pouring it in of coarse, but you need to be careful not to over-do it.
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Jun 12, 2013 19:33
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Trying to make a really dank, bitter, sharp IPA/verging on DIPA. Thoughts on this, specifically the hop schedule? Should I cut out the caramel? Mainly added for a bit of color. Rahr 2-row Pale 10.0 lb 74 % Mash American Vienna 3.0 lb 22 % Mash 2-Row Caramel Malt 60L 8.0 oz 3 % Mash Columbus United States 1.75 oz 60 min Boil Pellet 15.0% Columbus United States 1.0 oz 10 min Boil Pellet 15.0% Columbus United States 1.0 oz 5 min Boil Pellet 15.0% Columbus United States 1.25 oz 0 min Boil Pellet 15.0% Columbus United States 1.0 oz 5 days Dry Hop Pellet 15.0% American Ale 1056 Wyeast 75.0% 60°F – 72°F
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Jun 12, 2013 19:35
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Marshmallow Blue posted:Just don't soak the yeast in the bourbon yeah? Well i question everything, but the plan was: Soak the cubes in burbon, add sliced open vanilla to this mix. After a few days, pitch the lot into the secondary and transfer the porter into it. The only real question is hopefully the amount of burbon i want (16oz?) will cover 2ox of cubes. alternately i microwave the cubes in water, pitch them in + vanilla, then add a bit of burbon and taste. wait a week, taste again, repeat. EDIT: also i had a hopped cider the other day, and i think i might try that out in my next batch. Im thinking of doing a normal batch, then splitting it up into another carboy and leaving one straight, and dry hopping the other. hmmm SO many options
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Jun 12, 2013 19:39
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I think 16oz would be more than enough. If you're going to throw the whole mix in, then the vanilla in there is fine. If you're just going to pitch the cubes, than I would add the vanilla in the beer / mead/ cider itself. If you had more time you could soak beans in the bourbon for a month or so, then soak the oak cubes and allow the oak to absorb both bourbon and the extracted vanilla. But I don't think that level of extraction would happen in two days.
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Jun 12, 2013 19:51
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global tetrahedron posted:Trying to make a really dank, bitter, sharp IPA/verging on DIPA. Thoughts on this, specifically the hop schedule? Should I cut out the caramel? Mainly added for a bit of color. Looks good to me, though personally I'd go up to a pound of C60 but I'm a weirdo who likes crystal malt in IPAs. One other thing you might want to consider is adding hops as you chill. I've found that hopping at sub boiling temperatures gives you that stick-to-your-mouth hop texture that you get in a lot of commercial examples.
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Jun 12, 2013 19:52
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Marshmallow Blue posted:I think 16oz would be more than enough. If you're going to throw the whole mix in, then the vanilla in there is fine. If you're just going to pitch the cubes, than I would add the vanilla in the beer / mead/ cider itself. If you had more time you could soak beans in the bourbon for a month or so, then soak the oak cubes and allow the oak to absorb both bourbon and the extracted vanilla. But I don't think that level of extraction would happen in two days. oh that would have been ideal, but i was planning on having the beans / oak just sitting in the secondary for a few weeks. information on this process is *really* all over the place.
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Jun 12, 2013 19:57
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global tetrahedron posted:Trying to make a really dank, bitter, sharp IPA/verging on DIPA. Thoughts on this, specifically the hop schedule? Should I cut out the caramel? Mainly added for a bit of color. This looks like it might be a good beer to do first wort hopping in, I've really enjoyed that in a couple of similar IPAs that I've done recently. Makes the bitterness/hop flavor quite a bit smoother which might go well with a "dank" vibe.
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Jun 12, 2013 19:59
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global tetrahedron posted:Trying to make a really dank, bitter, sharp IPA/verging on DIPA. I made a Columbus SMaSH (2-Row) and it was one of my favorite pale ales to date. I really liked how clean and crisp mine was, but I wouldn't worry about 8oz of caramel messing things up. Should be awesome!
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Jun 12, 2013 20:31
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Roundboy posted:EDIT: also i had a hopped cider the other day, and i think i might try that out in my next batch. Im thinking of doing a normal batch, then splitting it up into another carboy and leaving one straight, and dry hopping the other. hmmm SO many options There's a local cidery that makes a dry hopped cider with Cascade that's great. I'm definitely experimenting with it later this year.
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Jun 12, 2013 20:52
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internet celebrity posted:Looks good to me, though personally I'd go up to a pound of C60 but I'm a weirdo who likes crystal malt in IPAs. One other thing you might want to consider is adding hops as you chill. I've found that hopping at sub boiling temperatures gives you that stick-to-your-mouth hop texture that you get in a lot of commercial examples. Between this and the first wort hopping suggestion, which additions would I move? I presume I could add the 0 min addition during chilling, and the bittering addition to the mash? Would that create an equivalent IBU, or perhaps even higher?
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Jun 12, 2013 22:48
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I've never done a recipe before, I want to make something simple yet drinkable for the summer. I'm wondering what would happen if I did a really simple recipe like this: Grain Bill 10 lbs Belgian Pale Malt Hop Additions 1.00 oz HBC 342 - 60 Minutes Yeast Wyeast 3724 @ 85F+ Is this too plain? BeerSmith says I should expect around 5% ABV and 42IBU in a 5 gallon batch. I've heard HBC 342 has a lot of complexity to it and I'm wondering if that complexity will still be there after a 60 minute boil. Should I split the hop additions out a bit, or maybe move the 1 oz addition to 30 minutes so the bitterness is reduced to 33 IBU? Any input would be appreciated.
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Jun 12, 2013 23:40
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So I found a mini-fridge on the side of the road on my way home from work today and it seems to still work. I was thinking of using it for a fermentation chamber but I have some size issues. A better bottle with a 3-piece airlock on it is about 1" too tall to fit in it. A 6.5g bucket would fit, but it bumps into the freezer portion of the mini-fridge, which I gather generally can't be removed (but maybe can be bent?) Are the s-bend airlocks particularly shorter than the 3-piece? Alternately, does anyone know of a squatter fermentation vessel than the normal buckets / better bottles?
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Jun 12, 2013 23:48
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Thufir posted:A 6.5g bucket would fit, but it bumps into the freezer portion of the mini-fridge, which I gather generally can't be removed (but maybe can be bent?) I'd advise against this. I killed an old mini fridge by trying to bend the freezer out of the way, something busted and the fridge wouldn't chill anymore  Luckily it was a $20 or something Craigslist find.
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Jun 12, 2013 23:52
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Thufir posted:So I found a mini-fridge on the side of the road on my way home from work today and it seems to still work. I was thinking of using it for a fermentation chamber but I have some size issues. A better bottle with a 3-piece airlock on it is about 1" too tall to fit in it. A 6.5g bucket would fit, but it bumps into the freezer portion of the mini-fridge, which I gather generally can't be removed (but maybe can be bent?) Are the s-bend airlocks particularly shorter than the 3-piece? Alternately, does anyone know of a squatter fermentation vessel than the normal buckets / better bottles? Depending on the fridge style you can cut into the door and the bucket won't be hitting the part of the fridge with the coil anymore. Don't mess with anywhere you think there is refrigerant coil unless you are really confident you know what you are doing or you'll lose all that precious refrigerant in a way you probably can't even get high with. Doors are safe because they are hinged.
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Jun 12, 2013 23:54
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Docjowles posted:I'd advise against this. I killed an old mini fridge by trying to bend the freezer out of the way, something busted and the fridge wouldn't chill anymore I will give you an opposing anecdotal story and say I bought a mini fridge and bent the freezer portion down with no issues and use it for a beer fridge and fermentation fridge regularly. It works great. Seeing as you found this thing on the side of the road, what have you got to lose?
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Jun 13, 2013 00:38
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16oz (half the bottle!!) Jim beam black + 3oz medium toasted american oak + 2 Madagascar Bourbon vanilla beans smells AMAZING I never sat and did a ml to oz conversion so it was a surprise I poured so much. I really hope its not too much
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Jun 13, 2013 01:10
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It's a lot, IMO. Long ago, I did an oaked Imperial Stout, in which I used one ounce of oak "beans" and 4 ounces of Jack Daniels in five gallons - and that gave a nice, but not overpowering, whiskey/oak character. Of course tastes may vary, but my personal preference is for less than a pint in five gallons.
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Jun 13, 2013 01:14
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Thufir posted:So I found a mini-fridge on the side of the road on my way home from work today and it seems to still work. I was thinking of using it for a fermentation chamber but I have some size issues. A better bottle with a 3-piece airlock on it is about 1" too tall to fit in it. A 6.5g bucket would fit, but it bumps into the freezer portion of the mini-fridge, which I gather generally can't be removed (but maybe can be bent?) Are the s-bend airlocks particularly shorter than the 3-piece? Alternately, does anyone know of a squatter fermentation vessel than the normal buckets / better bottles? On this note: I recently got a used mini fridge for use as a fermentation chamber, but I'd like to replace the filthy door gasket. Its an older Sanyo model, so the replacement part is like $25 bucks, a significant portion of the Craigslist price. Anybody know of any other products we can use to replace the gasket? Some generic materials we can use to seal it it up? I'm not very handy, but I'd like to try...
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Jun 13, 2013 01:48
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I'm going by a northern brewer recipie, so I dunno I am confident that it mellows out over time,but we shall see Home brewing,its an exact guess ^^^^ home depot or Lowes will sell the material to seal up the door. Not the exact stuff,but similar. You just need to buy enough and cut it to fit
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Jun 13, 2013 01:48
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firebad57 posted:On this note: I recently got a used mini fridge for use as a fermentation chamber, but I'd like to replace the filthy door gasket. Its an older Sanyo model, so the replacement part is like $25 bucks, a significant portion of the Craigslist price. What Roundboy said, also a protip if your fridge is particularly nasty looking from the outside. Fabric + spray adhesive on the door is a cheap way of getting it looking nice again. I had this dream of covering the thing with cow hide but that proved to be way expensive so I bought some duck cloth for ~$10 instead. Looks great. Edit: In fact here are the pictures I took: Sirotan posted:Fermentation unit conversion complete.
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Jun 13, 2013 01:53
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Hey guys, this is somewhat off topic but I just posted a thread for the SA Beer it Forward. Send beer to goons and get beer from goons! The more the merrier so go sign up if you have extra dough and want some sweet sweet nectar from another region. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3554441
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Jun 13, 2013 01:54
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I've never done a recipe before, I want to make something simple yet drinkable for the summer. I'm wondering what would happen if I did a really simple recipe like this: This is a weird and interesting take on a SMaSH beer and in my book you should shine on, crazy diamond. To answer your question RE: the hops, it would be a huge waste to dump rare and interesting hops in at 60 minutes, as you will get almost 100% bitterness and very little of the unique flavors an aromas you are looking for. If I were you I'd add enough at 60 to get my IBUs around 20-30, and then split the rest between a 10 minute and a flame out addition. Doing that would come out as an extra hop forward saison with only a small amount of malt forward background. Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Jun 13, 2013 |
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Jun 13, 2013 03:42
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Mikey Purp posted:This is a weird and interesting take on a SMaSH beer and in my book you should shine on, crazy diamond. I'm trying to at least stay a little bit in line with the saison, and try to keep a balance between hop intensity and malt flavor. Could I do a 30 minute boil and retain some of the hop flavor that way? 0.5 oz at 30 and 0.5 oz at 10 gives me 24 IBU. Do I need to boil for 60 minutes?
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Jun 13, 2013 04:01
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I'm trying to at least stay a little bit in line with the saison, and try to keep a balance between hop intensity and malt flavor. Could I do a 30 minute boil and retain some of the hop flavor that way? 0.5 oz at 30 and 0.5 oz at 10 gives me 24 IBU. Do I need to boil for 60 minutes? I've done a couple 30 minute boil saisons and they turned out fine. The primary reasons for boiling for 60 minutes (as I understand it) is to extract enough hop acids (essential in some styles), concentrate the gravity, and provide a slight caramelization for flavor and complexity. You don't even NEED to boil at all if none of those things are a factor in your style. Since saisons are more or less defined by the yeast I'm sure you'd be fine, just adjust your gravity accordingly.
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Jun 13, 2013 04:06
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:What's the difference in terms of flavor profile? 3711 is more spicy/lemon/pepper ester; 3724 is gets bubblegum/fruit/mild pepper
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Jun 13, 2013 13:21
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So my friend went and make Cock ale. Yes, that Cock ale. He wrote a pretty nice write-up regarding the history of recipes and his experience. http://thedraughtsaredeep.wordpress.com/2013/06/13/take-a-cock-and-boil-him-well/
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Jun 13, 2013 15:37
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Fridge update: I did manage to bend the freezer out of the way successfully but even with that out of the way and the door stuff cut off the door still won't close on my bucket(I guess I could have measured that before I started cutting stuff but  ). I'm thinking about making a collar to bump the door out a few inches.
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Jun 13, 2013 16:55
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How exactly did you guys bend it? I have my old mini-fridge and I'd like to get kegs. It BARELY fits a fermenting bucket as it is now.
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Jun 13, 2013 17:00
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ChiTownEddie posted:How exactly did you guys bend it? I have my old mini-fridge and I'd like to get kegs. It BARELY fits a fermenting bucket as it is now. I had no special technique, just bent it really really carefully by hand.
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Jun 13, 2013 17:02
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Sirotan posted:I had no special technique, just bent it really really carefully by hand. So before I start drinking. Got it. E: for more content. I am so excited to get this keg hehe. First thing into it is my summer raspberry beer. Downside of that, the gf will probably drink more of it than I will. Super simpliest recipe: 5lb Wheat DME 1-2oz of hops US-05 0.75lb of frozen raspberries per gallon in secondary. Summer chug beer complete. ChiTownEddie fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Jun 13, 2013 |
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Jun 13, 2013 17:04
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ChiTownEddie posted:How exactly did you guys bend it? I have my old mini-fridge and I'd like to get kegs. It BARELY fits a fermenting bucket as it is now. I unscrewed the freezer part from everything and then just bent it down real slowly so it's over the hump in the back of the fridge. The coolent line on this fridge is really long so I probably could bend it further but I don't want to tempt fate.
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Jun 13, 2013 17:19
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Thufir posted:Fridge update: I did manage to bend the freezer out of the way successfully but even with that out of the way and the door stuff cut off the door still won't close on my bucket(I guess I could have measured that before I started cutting stuff but I took the door shelving off, then cut away a bit of the insulation where the top of the bucket was contacting it in my mini fridge
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Jun 13, 2013 17:36
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Recently I've been crushing my fruit and boiling it for a couple minutes with some DME (enough to = same gravity of the beer) before adding it to secondary. I'm much happier with the results than when I was just adding it frozen or fresh. Suck it pectin nerds, my stuffs cloudy anyway and I'm getting much better/consistent flavor with this method.
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Jun 13, 2013 17:43
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Are you using the same amounts? I've always read 1-2lbs per gallon of fruit.
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Jun 13, 2013 17:57
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Imasalmon posted:I took the door shelving off, then cut away a bit of the insulation where the top of the bucket was contacting it in my mini fridge I need an extra 4" even with the shelving off, I don't think I can get there trimming foam.
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Jun 13, 2013 18:23
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fullroundaction posted:I've done a couple 30 minute boil saisons and they turned out fine. The primary reasons for boiling for 60 minutes (as I understand it) is to extract enough hop acids (essential in some styles), concentrate the gravity, and provide a slight caramelization for flavor and complexity. You don't even NEED to boil at all if none of those things are a factor in your style. Awesome. I think I'll do 0.5 at 30 and 0.5 at 10 and see how things turn out! Thanks!
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Jun 13, 2013 18:26
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First BIAB all-grain saison is mashing as we speak. Temps are probably already too low (didn't get a ton of heat retaining stuff) but in about 10 minutes I'm going to mash-out to 170, sparge, and boil! Exciting!
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Jun 13, 2013 20:01
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Midorka posted:Are you using the same amounts? I've always read 1-2lbs per gallon of fruit. The last 2 boiled batches were 1lb/gallon, and they definitely had more flavor come through then when I've added more than that as either fresh or frozen. I'm not trying to imply this is the best way to do it, but I've had quite a few disasters in the past when trying to make fruit beers. This way is pretty much dummy proof with the added benefit of working really well with my setup. fullroundaction fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Jun 13, 2013 |
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Jun 13, 2013 21:04
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I also think the pectin in boiling fruit helps with color retention. Unless you like your strawberries turning brown in a fine mead... You should save your pectic enzyme until the end and the color stays!
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Jun 13, 2013 21:30
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fullroundaction posted:Suck it pectin nerds, my stuffs cloudy anyway and I'm getting much better/consistent flavor with this method. If you're happy, there is of course no reason to change, but I wonder if also adding some pectinase would alleviate any haze (which I know you don't care about, but still...).
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Jun 13, 2013 21:35
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