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Baronjutter posted:Is model master acrylic ok? Did I actually need the specific model-master acrylic thinner? A caveat to that is model-master acrylic needs a acrylic paint retarder if painting through an airbrush (art supply stores will have these.) If you don't use this, it will dry inside your airbrush and clog everything up, and then you have to disassemble it and it is a huge pain I've used 99% iso alcohol with Tamiya and had no problems. Also, if you are airbrushing with Vallejo, that stuff actually *does* need its branded thinner. If it's oil based: mineral spirits from the hardware store.
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Jul 4, 2013 05:42
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Nebakenezzer posted:If it's oil based: mineral spirits from the hardware store. No, don't use mineral spirits as a thinner for enamel colors. Mineral spirits is a cleaning agent, it actually destroys the paint and will damage the brush (regular, bristles) if you use it as a thinner overtime. While you can get by with water or alcohol for acrylic paints, for enamel paints you need an enamel thinner, though usually it doesn't matter which specific brand.
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Jul 4, 2013 07:14
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GreenDragon42 posted:No, don't use mineral spirits as a thinner for enamel colors. Mineral spirits is a cleaning agent, it actually destroys the paint and will damage the brush (regular, bristles) if you use it as a thinner overtime. While you can get by with water or alcohol for acrylic paints, for enamel paints you need an enamel thinner, though usually it doesn't matter which specific brand. You do realize several companies sell mineral spirits for the express purpose of thinning enamels and oils, yes?
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Jul 4, 2013 08:22
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:You do realize several companies sell mineral spirits for the express purpose of thinning enamels and oils, yes? No, I didn't, but that's still wrong. Using mineral spirits may look like it's thinning the paint, but that's because it's breaking the paint so there's less actual paint in the medium.
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Jul 4, 2013 08:32
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Nebakenezzer posted:Also, if you are airbrushing with Vallejo, that stuff actually *does* need its branded thinner. Yesterday I was going to airbrush Vallejo primer which usually dries on the needle pretty quick. So a couple of months back I mixed primer with Vallejo thinner in a bottle so that I would have easier access. This mix worked well for a couple of months, but yesterday it had gone really thick. Thicker than the original even. Anyone know why?
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Jul 4, 2013 09:52
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Baronjutter posted:Dude was really adamant about using the specific brand's thinner and to never use water or iso. Nebakenezzer posted:A caveat to that is model-master acrylic needs a acrylic paint retarder if painting through an airbrush (art supply stores will have these.) If you don't use this, it will dry inside your airbrush and clog everything up, and then you have to disassemble it and it is a huge pain The only time Vallejo thinner makes an actual difference is when 1. you need to thin something pretty hard for airbrushing, and 2. for matt varnish, which is a tricky beast anyway so everyone recommends Testor/Model Master.
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Jul 4, 2013 12:31
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Nebakenezzer posted:A caveat to that is model-master acrylic needs a acrylic paint retarder if painting through an airbrush (art supply stores will have these.) If you don't use this, it will dry inside your airbrush and clog everything up, and then you have to disassemble it and it is a huge pain Will the model-master thinner I bought do this?
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Jul 4, 2013 15:41
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Baronjutter posted:Will the model-master thinner I bought do this? Good question; unfortunately I've never used their acrylic thinner. GreenDragon42 posted:No, I didn't, but that's still wrong. Using mineral spirits may look like it's thinning the paint, but that's because it's breaking the paint so there's less actual paint in the medium. OK, dumb question: assuming this is true, is there stuff at the hardware store that I can substitute?
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Jul 4, 2013 16:00
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Nebakenezzer posted:OK, dumb question: assuming this is true, is there stuff at the hardware store that I can substitute? I'm not an expert, but I don't think so, unless you can find something that says that it's an enamel thinner.
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Jul 4, 2013 16:55
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GreenDragon42 posted:No, I didn't, but that's still wrong. Using mineral spirits may look like it's thinning the paint, but that's because it's breaking the paint so there's less actual paint in the medium.
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Jul 4, 2013 19:17
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So I did some reading, and I gotta admit I was surprised to find out that thinners were based on mineral spirits. I guess I always thought that the thinner was doing something to the viscosity of the paint, rather than just breaking it down. Which would explain why you can't get back paint that has been over thinned by letting it evaporate. I guess I'd edit my earlier statement to say "Use preferably the manufacturer thinner, but plain mineral spirits might work as well". I've got another question though: How can I keep the paint in airbrush bottles from drying in an easy way? I've got the bottles with a pipe that plugs into the airbrush directly, and when I'm done with the spray session, I cover the pin hole in the cap and the pipe with masking tape, which seems to be working just fine, but it's very cumbersome to do it every time. Is there some easy trick or some product that can do this easily?
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Jul 6, 2013 13:12
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With Vallejo paints, water and their thinner medium actually give different results to the paint. With water the paint gets more fluid, but the color intensity stays strong. If you thin the paint with their thinner, the color gets much more translucent compared to water thinned paint. edit; seems like I misremembered. It's the Glaze Medium that does this, and not the Thinner Medium. Some content; this is a diorama I've been working on for quite some time now. It's the AFV Club 251/9 with GreatWall Hobby engine, Tamiya's Kübelwagen, and figures by Tamiya, Dragon, MiniArt and MasterBox. The setting is a rural road in the southern Netherlands in September 1944 during Market Garden. These troops are part of Kampfgruppe Walther, an ad-hoc unit of Heer, Luftwaffe, Fallschirmjager and Kriegsmarine personnel that attacked the eastern flank of the Hells Highway. I'd like to know what you guys think of the layout and if you can guess what the story of the scene is.    Molentik fucked around with this message at 16:16 on Jul 6, 2013 |
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Jul 6, 2013 15:27
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"Does that driver know his passenger lost his head?"
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Jul 6, 2013 18:05
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Nebakenezzer posted:"Does that driver know his passenger lost his head?"
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Jul 6, 2013 19:36
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I just finished a 1/35 Italeri Ostwind. I've never done a 1/35 kit before and I really liked it. I got the kit for $2 at a scale model club swap meet a couple years ago. The kit came with a crew and but I didn't want to leave them panzer uniform black so I went with regular feldgrau. The tanks were optional so I decided to make a little refueling scene. http://imgur.com/a/jHKLv Next project is a 1/350 Italian cruiser Zara. I've always wanted to try the red and white deck stripes they did.
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Jul 7, 2013 14:49
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I bought a Tamiya 1:35th Panther Ausf G, and decided to put some Zimmerit on it. Buying aftermarket kits is for suckers, so I decided to do it myself with some putty. It's looking pretty sweet while drying, hopefully it looks just as good when painted. Decals are going to be a bitch, though.
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Jul 7, 2013 22:24
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"Guys, GUYS! A kitten. Gotta' stop the blitzkrieg, it's in the manual.".
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Jul 8, 2013 02:43
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Arquinsiel posted:"Guys, GUYS! A kitten. Gotta' stop the blitzkrieg, it's in the manual.". 
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Jul 8, 2013 07:12
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I forgot about that one. I was thinking of this old demotivator meme.
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Jul 8, 2013 16:37
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So a project I was working on just got ruined because I used CA glue to do my glazing. It was fine all day but when I looked at it this morning the glazing had horribly fogged over in patches. I'm reading now CA releases fumes which does this to most glazing... I'm also reading they recomend PVA glue, which apparently is just "white glue". But now I'm reading there's tons of types of white glue and not all are PVA. Oh god thread help me, what's a good fast-grabbing glue that I can use to glue paper to glazing and glazing to plastic that won't fog my glass and grabs and dries reasonably fast. I've used "canopy glue" in the past but the dying time killed me. That poo poo didn't even start to grab for like 30 min. This perfect glazing, hours of work, almost totally ruined  
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Jul 8, 2013 20:48
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Speaking of nigh-complete disasters, I was all set for final assembly of the Camaro that I've been working on and upon attempting to join body to chassis (my favorite part), I managed to pretty much dismantle the interior completely. Luckily, it can all be re-glued, but I only wonder if it will do the same thing tonight when I reattempt it.
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Jul 8, 2013 21:07
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Baronjutter posted:So a project I was working on just got ruined because I used CA glue to do my glazing. It was fine all day but when I looked at it this morning the glazing had horribly fogged over in patches. I'm reading now CA releases fumes which does this to most glazing... Try a gloss varnish over the affected glazing. It might fix things.
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Jul 8, 2013 21:53
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So peel the windows off, brush on some fututure, and hope it fixes thing? the CA fumes reacted with the plastic glazing and turned spots totally opaque and has seemed specially attracted to finger prints, seemingly etching them into the glass I'll give it a try but I'm not expecting it to help. What glue SHOULD I have used? Sites keep saying to use other "canopy glue" or "PVA". I can't seem to find PVA anywhere as no white glue tells me if it's PVA or not, and some are not. I tried canopy glue once. The first time I used it it was like water, had no grab and took forever to dry. The next time I used it it was a white-glue like sludge that grabbed but dried white and was horrible.
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Jul 8, 2013 22:29
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If you're in yankland I believe the easiest PVA to find is "Elmer's". Otherwise it's the same white gloop you were using as a kid to stick lovely pictures together.
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Jul 8, 2013 22:45
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Arquinsiel posted:If you're in yankland I believe the easiest PVA to find is "Elmer's". Otherwise it's the same white gloop you were using as a kid to stick lovely pictures together. At the small office supply place I went to there were like 4 types of elmers white glue and a ton of other elmers stuff. School glue, craft, household, something all acid-free and marketed for photos. Sticks, sprays, brush on stuff. None said if they were PVA based or not. I asked the lady there and she said all the white glue would just harden and fall off plastic. I know I tried using my carpenters glue to glue some paper signs onto a building and within a week they had all fallen off on their own. Baronjutter fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Jul 8, 2013 |
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Jul 8, 2013 22:48
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In my teens I was amused to discover that my crappy school PVA I bought for toy mans was the same stuff as my dad's wood glue, the "cement sealant" and a few other things lying around in the shed. He was not, since he had paid a hell of a lot more by volume for his.
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Jul 9, 2013 00:32
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Jul 9, 2013 06:51
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I kinda want to do some scale modelling, since it was fun when I was a kid and painting miniature barbarians for D&D is something I do semi-regularly. The last models I built were warhammer things 8-10 years ago. I'd like to make a world war 2 warship ship of some sort, preferably not a battleship or carrier to start with. I was thinking of Flower-class corvettes, but I guess there's only one fairly large-scale model available and I wanted something that will end up smaller. Is 1/700 a good scale to build warships in if I later want to build more in the same scale? That and 1/600 seem to be common, as does 1/350 but that's a little too large for me. Would any of these kits be a good idea to get back into this stuff with, or am I letting myself in for trouble? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tamiya-M...=item5658661f64 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dragon-M...=item1c260c2ea3 http://www.bnamodelworld.com/trumpeter/tr-05789 Elector_Nerdlingen fucked around with this message at 12:33 on Jul 9, 2013 |
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Jul 9, 2013 12:26
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Ding! I use this for windshield/other windows with my cars. As long as you get a solid line, it will hold well and dry clear without fogging your plastic. CA glue will fog transparent plastic every time, but this has worked very well for me.
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Jul 9, 2013 14:02
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AlphaDog posted:I kinda want to do some scale modelling, since it was fun when I was a kid and painting miniature barbarians for D&D is something I do semi-regularly. The last models I built were warhammer things 8-10 years ago. Those kits should be fine; they are all from good manufacturers. 1/700 and 1/350 are the two most common ship scales, and 1/700 in particular you get get just about everything. Also, color me surprised that the Germans actually had destroyers in 1944.
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Jul 9, 2013 17:32
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Not only destroyers!. Several pre- ww1 Deutschland class battleships were in the kriegsmarine for training and light combat duties. All were sunk by the end of 1944 but this one sunk in such shallow waters that its crew were able to use its guns to defend the port they had sunk in from the soviets. The soviets after the war refloated her and used it as a target ship.
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Jul 9, 2013 23:53
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Nebakenezzer posted:Those kits should be fine; they are all from good manufacturers. 1/700 and 1/350 are the two most common ship scales, and 1/700 in particular you get get just about everything. Thanks. Guess I'll go 1/700 then 1/350 is going to produce giant-rear end battleships that I don't have space for. Germany had heaps of different ships in ww2, you just mostly hear about Bismarck, Graf Spee, and u-boats (and Tirpitz if the dambusters come up).
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Jul 10, 2013 02:02
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Found in later '50s Life:  Also from old Life, just for EE  
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Jul 11, 2013 20:56
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Nebakenezzer posted:Also from old Life, just for EE That's a PzIII, not a PzIV like the caption suggests. It's not very obvious in the first photo, but you can clearly see the 6 road wheels in the second one. Interesting photos, though.
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Jul 11, 2013 21:47
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Also not Tommyguns, but hey. I love the old ads, because of the "anorak" thing with model shops here you can occasionally find an old Airfix kit that's been sitting there for decades with a half dozen or so incremental price increases on the stickers.
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Jul 11, 2013 22:20
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Having read through world war 2 from the perspective of Life I can tell you that minor mis-identifications are pretty common. I think somewhere in their Normandy coverage they identify a front-on Mk.IV Panzer as a Tiger, for example. Model note: I'm diggin' the tracks on the Mk. III filled with dry mud and grass, and vaguely wonder if there's a technique I can do to capture it.
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Jul 12, 2013 02:20
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Nebakenezzer posted:Having read through world war 2 from the perspective of Life I can tell you that minor mis-identifications are pretty common. I think somewhere in their Normandy coverage they identify a front-on Mk.IV Panzer as a Tiger, for example. Reading contemporary allied accounts from the West after D-Day, one might be convinced that every German tank was a Tiger.
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Jul 12, 2013 02:52
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Nebakenezzer posted:Model note: I'm diggin' the tracks on the Mk. III filled with dry mud and grass, and vaguely wonder if there's a technique I can do to capture it. In a nutshell, plaster, paint, various grades of sand, and dried, thin gauge grass clippings. Of course, there are a billion and one custom products out there for recreating grass and mud, but you can recreate the effect with fairly basic materials.
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Jul 12, 2013 03:48
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Finished my Tamiya Panther Ausf. G. Since it's mid-to-late war German, that means two things: awesome looking camo, and awesome looking Zimmerit texture!   It also came with one crewman figure. Kind of disappointing, since other Tamiya kits come with several, and they can actually fit into the tank. This one can only stand next to it.  Or on top of it, I guess.  The Zimmerit was my own improvisation, made with Tamiya putty and a screwdriver. I put a lot of effort into the upper front plate and the gun mantlet, but the skirts, turret sides, and lower front plate were just flat layers on which I scratched perpendicular lines. Those ones ended up looking better, somehow. Oh well, live and learn. I also learned that you should put on the Zimmerit before gluing on accessories, not after. The sides of the tank and rear of the turret are regrettably bare. Overall, a pretty sweet kit, especially since I got it with a steel barrel for $20. It was marked as half-done, but the only parts that were finished were the torsion bars (thank god, those are annoying as hell) and some of the turret.
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Jul 12, 2013 19:02
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Ensign Expendable posted:Finished my Tamiya Panther Ausf. G. Since it's mid-to-late war German, that means two things: awesome looking camo, and awesome looking Zimmerit texture! Looks good! Nice experimentation with homemade Zimmerit. I also dig the weathering. Not too overdone, which I feel can make a model look gaudy and unrealistic.
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Jul 12, 2013 20:27
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