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How bad is it? Is there a sport mode? Or is it terrible while in sport mode? I know my car has terrible and annoying throttle response when just in drive and not sport or manual.
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Jul 21, 2013 02:19
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I have an E90 question. This one (2009 328xi) send to have acquired a throttle whine. When I depress the gas past about 30%, it whines like an old tv or fluorescent light. Any ideas what could be causing it?
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Jul 21, 2013 02:37
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Cojawfee posted:How bad is it? Is there a sport mode? Or is it terrible while in sport mode? I know my car has terrible and annoying throttle response when just in drive and not sport or manual. On some cars there is a snow mode. Which makes it even more numb. Something like the first 45% of throttle is electronic, and other part cable. I've read countless forum threads and reviews panning it. I didn't think it would be nearly as bad as it was. But that first half of travel is extremely slow to respond. I could tap the gas (enough that would send my stock Miata to 3k for an easy rev match) and NOTHING would happen. It almost felt broken. Sharp movements would be completely filtered out. So any quick pedal movements were not responded to by the engine. Launching was easy, since you could be brutal with the throttle, and it would all get filtered out. But the minute you try any kind of revmatch, it falls on it's face. A friends IS250 has a pretty numb throttle. With some latency. But way less numb/slow than the IS300. I sat in an BRZ again to remind myself and it does a fairly good job of mimicking a traditional cable throttle. To summarize, all driven back to back within 15 minutes; -IS300 M/T - Terrible latency and throttle input filter characteristics. Needed big inputs to just get tip in. -IS250 M/T - Passable latency and throttle input filter characteristics. Didn't need much input to get tip in. Not that great for competition driving, it would make a decent every day car. -BRZ - Little to no throttle filter. Behaved much like a cable throttle. Little (if any) perceived latency. Am now looking at 2Gen G35S Sedans.
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Jul 21, 2013 04:55
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omgitstheinternet posted:Well, I drove this home today: Bahamutsrage posted:I forgot there was a BMW thread so I guess I'll dump my pictures in here: Pfft, wheels. Who needs wheels?  (Installing track pads and new rotors for my HPDE next month. Bedded them in and God they're loud!)
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Jul 21, 2013 13:55
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What pads? I put HP+ pads in my M3 and I think all my neighbors hate me now.
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Jul 21, 2013 13:59
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Carbotech XP-8s in all corners. I'm planning to swap back to the OEM pads after the track day, because gently caress that noise.
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Jul 21, 2013 14:07
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On the topic of electronic throttles, had no one noticed that the e46 throttle response is essentially non existent and completely arbitrary and vague? I'd almost rather drive my e30 with a bad slave cylinder through Atlanta traffic. Hell, then I would at least know what it was doing.
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Jul 21, 2013 14:41
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Thinking about picking up a 2012 f30 328 today. I've searched through the thread and didn't find too much discussion on them and a lot of mixed opinions online. I loved my 89, and didn't notice a lot of the complaints I've seen during my test drives. $36k asking, 8,500 miles, manual, lots of options. I guess just hoping to hear any pros/cons/opinions I may have missed.
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Jul 21, 2013 15:05
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I'm getting set to take my 2011 E88 135i to a Hooked on Driving track day in a few weeks. It'll be my first and I don't want to have any stupid foreseeable mechanical issues keep me from enjoying the entire day. I've already got new tires and brakes and she's in good mechanical condition overall, but if anybody has some relatively common or personally experienced snags I could otherwise protect myself against with some foreknowledge I'd appreciate the heads up.
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Jul 21, 2013 18:40
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Change the oil if it's more than 5000 miles old. Those engines run pretty hot and as I've pointed out before the recommended intervals aren't very realistic, especially not for people who really use the cars. Unless the tire change was done at the dealership I'd loosen and retorque the lug nuts as well, and remember to avoid holding onto the brakes while stationary for the first few minutes after you come off track. I will sort of putter around for a few minutes then park on the level with it in gear to let the brakes cool.
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Jul 21, 2013 19:27
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There is some article bumping about on Bimmerpost about BMW moving the E90* M3's maintenance intervals up to 5k miles. I still have the Pagid Reds from Bavauto in my E46, they are a bit loud but still working great.
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Jul 21, 2013 19:38
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God drat it. My 08 135i just decided to blow out 1/2 a gallon of coolant for no reason. Parents are in town and my father wanted to visit the local hardware store. (Maybe 4 miles one way). On the way home the coolant light flashed orange, then red, then no power. I coasted into a drive way and found my passenger wheel soaked. I let it cool, drove it home the 1/2 mile left, and let it sit. When I took the cap off, it was low, but not completely empty. The 1/2 gal might be an exaggeration, but holy crap. Any quick ideas? I am going to get some BMW coolant first thing tomorrow. Guessing waterpump or thermostat. the spyder fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Jul 21, 2013 |
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Jul 21, 2013 23:22
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the spyder posted:God drat it. My 08 135i just decided to blow out 1/2 a gallon of coolant for no reason. Parents are in town and my father wanted to visit the local hardware store. (Maybe 4 miles one way). On the way home the coolant light flashed orange, then red, then no power. I coasted into a drive way and found my passenger wheel soaked. I let it cool, drove it home the 1/2 mile left, and let it sit. When I took the cap off, it was low, but not completely empty. The 1/2 gal might be an exaggeration, but holy crap. Any quick ideas? I am going to get some BMW coolant first thing tomorrow. thread title wins again
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Jul 21, 2013 23:41
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Replaced the Final Stage Unit in my E46 yesterday afternoon, what a bitch. I couldn't see anything without contorting my entire body just to get one of my eyes at just the right angle. To get to it, you take out the glove compartment and the trim piece under it, then move the cabin ambient temperature sensor fixture out of the way which is itself behind the passenger lower air duct and attached with two screws. Once you have that done, there's just enough room to get a hand in there to unclip the wiring harness and push the old unit's retention clip with a screwdriver. Installation was relatively easy by comparison.
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Jul 22, 2013 00:07
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Would you rather have a (E46) 328i or 330i? I keep hearing things about the 330i's less than desireable throttle by wire. I suppose I could go test drive both and see which I like better, but the wife has the car today and I'm stuck working from home.
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Jul 22, 2013 18:03
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You want a 330
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Jul 22, 2013 18:17
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GrAviTy84 posted:Would you rather have a (E46) 328i or 330i? I keep hearing things about the 330i's less than desireable throttle by wire. I suppose I could go test drive both and see which I like better, but the wife has the car today and I'm stuck working from home. 330i. I've had both. While the 328 was fun, the 330 is FUN. ninja: I still want an M3 though. 2nd ninja, that's 330i sport, not your reg 330...
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Jul 22, 2013 21:49
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330 all the way. More modernized than the 328 and with the sport package it's the best E46 short of an M3, but also arguably a better DD than an M3. There's a certain je ne sais quoi to a well-kept 330 that just makes everything feel so right as a DD.
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Jul 22, 2013 22:18
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GrAviTy84 posted:Would you rather have a (E46) 328i or 330i? I keep hearing things about the 330i's less than desireable throttle by wire. I suppose I could go test drive both and see which I like better, but the wife has the car today and I'm stuck working from home. 330. I bought a 323 from a guy who had just bought a 330 and a few months in now I know why.
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Jul 23, 2013 00:15
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330s make great DDs. Quiet, decent power, decent mileage, handles good with the sport package. I'd only get a 328 if it was a smoking deal - and even then I'd rather just have the lighter e36 with the same motor.
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Jul 23, 2013 00:39
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what makes it a "sport"? for instance I'm looking at this one: http://www.studiounitedauto.com/vehicle-details/0c3a6d513a43ae4a926fd669c0373b91/2001+bmw+330i+4-door+sedan.html It's overpriced, but I'm assuming they can be talked down. KBB is 7.2k. It's also over and hour drive from me so I don't know how to get all the dealbreaker things answered without driving out there and suffering LA traffic and wasting gas money and time etc only to have it be not worth getting. Sorry, I'm a newb to buying used cars and given the volatile nature of used BMW's and the used market in general, I'm trying really hard to not get shafted. 
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Jul 23, 2013 00:52
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AI! I've got five grand and I'm in the market for an E30 (in California Bay Area, if anyone has one for sale  ). I never owned a BMW before, or even a car that old. Are there any known issues or things I should be looking for when I go to check these cars out? Certain maintenance issues with E30s that I should make sure have been kept up on? Anything pertinent like that. Thanks!
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Jul 23, 2013 00:54
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GrAviTy84 posted:what makes it a "sport"? for instance I'm looking at this one: http://www.studiounitedauto.com/vehicle-details/0c3a6d513a43ae4a926fd669c0373b91/2001+bmw+330i+4-door+sedan.html Here's everything you wanted to know and more about E46s, including year-by-year and package-by-package differences: http://www.bimmerfest.com/wiki/index.php?title=BMW_E46 quote:ZSP - Sport Package That does not look like a sport package to me. It doesn't have the sport steering wheel, doesn't look like the sport seats (compared to my '04 at least), and those wheels weren't one of the OEM sport package wheels. Another dead giveaway for sport package is if the font on the gauge cluster is italicized or not (italicized = sport). The seats and steering wheel alone are very worth finding a sport package car. With that many miles the OEM sport suspension is a bit less of a difference. The shocks will undoubtedly need replaced at almost 120k miles, in which case you can pick whatever you want (Koni FSD + factory sport springs is highly recommended for a DD). The factory sport springs don't need to be replaced unless they are damaged or you want something even stiffer, but if they are factory non-sport springs you will probably want to replace those as part of a suspension refresh as they are quite a bit mushier. Either way you'll also want to replace the major bushings as well (front control arm bushings and rear trailing arm bushings, maybe balljoints as well depending on their condition). Guinness fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Jul 23, 2013 |
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Jul 23, 2013 01:33
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Monopthalmus posted:AI! I've got five grand and I'm in the market for an E30 (in California Bay Area, if anyone has one for sale You might want to go back to the first page (I cant remember). But basically this: Cooling system entire front end rebuild entire rear end rebuild complete engine service brand new fluids every where timing belt I am sure I am missing other things, but basically... your going to burn up that 5 grand quick. Figuring a cost of a decent 2000 car to start with.
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Jul 23, 2013 01:43
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Sport package is worth it for the seats and the 3-spoke wheel (which has always boggled my mind that it isn't just standard).
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Jul 23, 2013 01:50
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Crustashio posted:Sport package is worth it for the seats and the 3-spoke wheel (which has always boggled my mind that it isn't just standard). In 2002+ coupes, it is standard. I'm going out on a limb saying this, but as nice as the sport package is, it isn't a deal breaker for me; certainly not when we're looking at 10-12 year old cars. Better to take a good example of a non-sport car than a lovely example of a sport car. Also, the 2001 330s are hit and miss for some people; BMW fiddled with the power steering in that car and a lot of people found it to be way too overboosted. I know I wasn't much of a fan when I test drove an '01.
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Jul 23, 2013 02:23
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I went today to checkout a 2007 328i wagon with 63000 miles. I had it inspected and other than a bad battery and some dings, the car appears mechanically sound. Original cooling system though so I'm expecting a giant repair bill in the next year or so. Its retailing for 15k but I offered 14k and the salesperson made it seem like that's impossibly low so I walked away. KBB values at 14k and edmunds values at 13.5k. Am I offering too little? What would you guys offer? The other thing is that the car has also been sitting at the dealer since March too.
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Jul 23, 2013 07:50
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Monopthalmus posted:AI! I've got five grand and I'm in the market for an E30 (in California Bay Area, if anyone has one for sale You have two choices, wait and find a magical time capsule e30, or buy a cheap one and fix it up yourself with the difference. I was going to post a list of things to look for but this post on r3v has it all covered: http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3636 Ignore the mileage on these cars and go off of what you see and feel when you drive it. Parts are dirt cheap and ODO's break a lot and are easy to roll back. 150-300k is the expected mileage for a car this age and much less would make me wonder if it's been sitting for a period. Don't buy a swapped car without a LOT of documentation or a good build thread. Be patient because there is a lot of poo poo to wade through. Different years have a lot of subtle differences, but the most important to know is that 1987 and older have the metal "diving board" bumpers and it's difficult to swap, 1988 has the diving boards but it can be swapped with late model bumpers (and is the best year IMO), and 1989 and later have plastic bumpers. The #1 thing to buy off of is the condition of the body panels, frame, etc. A new motor or transmission can be had for peanuts and it's one of the easiest swaps you could imagine. Suspension components can add up and some are a bit difficult to swap but a lot of people like to modify their suspension in the long run anyway. Stock ride height is really high and stiff which doesn't appeal to a lot of people. Even if you aren't into lowered cars, you will probably want to drop it a few inches at some point. Count on spending some money down the road for different wheels if you ever want to use decent tires. A rough interior will nickel & dime you to death especially if you have a rare color. Oh yeah if you don't get a sport model, put an LSD on it right away. Worth the cost. Waiting for a clean e30 worth $5000 may take you a long time, especially if you want a 5sp (you want a 5sp) as a fair warning. It took me 9 months of answering ads and test driving e30's everywhere on the west coast to find mine. Mine was high miles (250k) but it was 1 owner and had over $40,000 in dealership only service history in its life including more than I paid for the car this year. Only thing wrong with it was that my guibo is kind of going out, my rotors are warped, and the interior had some rips on the driver seat and shift boot(pass and back seat was unused). But come on how many e30's do you find without any rust, near perfect body work, working central locks AND working AC?! I found it on r3v and I highly recommend buying from another enthusiast, everyone I've met on there is very honest & up front and I feel like all the time I spent on ebay/autotrader/etc was a complete waste now. Plus you can look up their post history on various bmw forums to learn if their car is a lemon or reliable etc. Basically I'm trying to say be patient and good things will come to you. Look at some poo poo e30's and you'll quickly learn what to look out for. No e30 is perfect but you should get pretty close to that if you're paying $5k. The best part is how the motor has a quarter million miles on it, but I get 1 MPG under sticker and it leaks nothing. Iron block i6's are great. Drunken Lullabies fucked around with this message at 09:33 on Jul 23, 2013 |
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Jul 23, 2013 09:10
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God drat dealers. My E90 went to the dealer for that battery cable recall, came out with that fixed but the central unlock button not working. Took it to a new dealer for that, who replaced some kind of body control model that lost all the unlock preferences etc, came out with the button working but on my way home the BRAKE and TCS warning lights came on. It's just like going to hospital, if your car spends enough time there it ends up sicker.
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Jul 23, 2013 14:35
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There is a guy on Bimmerfest from NYC who took his almost new 535 in for a software update and the dealer basically bricked his car and it has been sitting there for over a month now while they wait for new parts. They ended up buying the car back from him so he's upgrading to a 550. Don't take your car to dealers ever. 
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Jul 23, 2013 14:59
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I should scan my receipt for a 3000+ dollar brake job + window regulator replacement on my old e36. You can guess why I taught myself to DIY everything.
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Jul 23, 2013 15:52
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This is all under warranty, but the time and the knowledge that each time they tear the car apart they might break something else is aggravating.
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Jul 23, 2013 17:17
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lostleaf posted:I went today to checkout a 2007 328i wagon with 63000 miles. I had it inspected and other than a bad battery and some dings, the car appears mechanically sound. Original cooling system though so I'm expecting a giant repair bill in the next year or so. Its retailing for 15k but I offered 14k and the salesperson made it seem like that's impossibly low so I walked away. KBB values at 14k and edmunds values at 13.5k. Am I offering too little? What would you guys offer? The other thing is that the car has also been sitting at the dealer since March too. E90s don't need cooling system refreshes as often as <= E46s do. Salesguy is being a bit of a chode, but if it's a 6-speed wagon they're pretty drat rare. And 63k mi is not a lot for an '07.
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Jul 23, 2013 20:33
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I worry about that stuff myself, I shied away from considering the M-DKG because a guy I worked with had his software updated 4 times in the year he'd had the thing. Simple is good with BMW, if you ever needed evidence of that just look at how the 7 series holds up over time.
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Jul 23, 2013 22:56
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To be fair, the 7 series is where they try out their new technology, like the S class Mercedes. It's made for rich people to drive around for a few years and then get a new one. By the time things trickle down to the 3 series, it's pretty stable.
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Jul 23, 2013 23:04
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15k for a 328i manual wagon seems reasonable to me, but maybe that's just because I'd consider it a rarity as well. Hell, e46 325 tourings can STILL sell for close to 10k. Of course I also just dream of having one in alpine white as a daily driver  also, does anyone know if these are OEM wheels and what the style # would be? I need a 2nd set of wheels for my e46 and I like simply 5 spoke wheels. 
Crustashio fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Jul 23, 2013 |
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Jul 23, 2013 23:07
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Cojawfee posted:To be fair, the 7 series is where they try out their new technology, like the S class Mercedes. It's made for rich people to drive around for a few years and then get a new one. By the time things trickle down to the 3 series, it's pretty stable. Even the 5er gets the best technology as well. Mine has been down right stable in my E60.
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Jul 23, 2013 23:10
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Crustashio posted:15k for a 328i manual wagon seems reasonable to me, but maybe that's just because I'd consider it a rarity as well. Hell, e46 325 tourings can STILL sell for close to 10k. According to this site, Style 261s from a E87 1-series.
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Jul 23, 2013 23:28
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sofullofhate posted:E90s don't need cooling system refreshes as often as <= E46s do. It's an automatic, not stick  I wouldn't even have negotiated if it was a 6-speed. The closest manual wagon that I can find from here is 100 miles away according to autotrader.
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Jul 23, 2013 23:40
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lostleaf posted:It's an automatic, not stick 100 miles is nothing. I flew 1600 or so miles for my newest to me car, and 260 for the one I got before that. 100 miles is what, an hour by car? 
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Jul 24, 2013 01:04
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