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ctishman
Apr 26, 2005

Oh Giraffe you're havin' a laugh!
All right. I've taken another look at it with that in mind, and I think I've sorted it out a little more, logically.

They probably don't care what size drive it is, because they assume you'll bring your own driver, right? Thus the 1/4" refers to the socket size. So I can parse the list as follows:

  • ¼” – (12 point)
  • 3/16”, ¼”, 5/16”, ⅜”, 7/16”, ½”, 9/16” (Standard, assume six point))
  • 11/32” (unknown points)

Sound reasonable?

Edit: That's not everything on the list, of course. Here's the full minimal toolset they want me to have on Orientation day.

LED Light AAA Cell Flashlight
Hammer – 12 Oz Ball Peen
Hammer – Dead Blow or Non-Marring
Inspection Mirrir – Telescope – 2¼” diameter
Minivac
Tool Carrier
Pliers – Channel Lock
Pliers – Diagonal Cutting
Pliers – Duck Bill
Pliers – Needle Nose
Pliers – Standard
Punch Set (⅛”, 5/32”, 3/16”, ¼”)
Ratchet set and extensions – ¼”
Ratchet set and extensions – ⅜”
Scale – 6” (Measured in 1/100”)
Scissors
Screwdriver – Magnetic
Screwdriver – Common set (4”, 6”, 8”)
Screwdriver Set – Offset
Screwdriver Set – Stubby
Socket set
¼” – (12 point) 3/16”,
¼”, 5/16”, ⅜”, 7/16”, ½”, 9/16” (Standard)
11/32”
Socket set ⅜” – (12-point) up to 13/16”
Tape Measure 12’
Utility Knife (Ergonomic)
Vise Grips (6”, 8”)
Wrench Set – Ignition
Wrench Set – Combination

ctishman fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Aug 12, 2013

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CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

ctishman posted:

All right, I'm a bit of a tool newbie, and I've gotten a job working in a shop doing general mechanical. I've got a minimum tool list that I'm trying to decipher, but there are a few bits that are confusing to me.


Now, I'm just trying to figure out what they want here, as formatting-wise, the list's a bit of a mess.

  • I assume the leading fraction (the ¼") refers to the drive size, or does it?
  • I assume that "Standard" refers to 6-point sockets
  • I'm puzzled about the last 11/32" though. Given that there's no point measurement on it, am I to assume that these larger sockets use a 4-point drive?

Anyone have good suggestions for daily-use tools that won't break the bank? I certainly don't have the budget to go rummaging through a snap-on catalog, but I don't want to show up with a plastic orange case from Ikea and be sent home, either.

Dont feel bad when they pick on you for being green as hell its part of initiating into that work environment.

ctishman
Apr 26, 2005

Oh Giraffe you're havin' a laugh!

CarForumPoster posted:

Dont feel bad when they pick on you for being green as hell its part of initiating into that work environment.

Haha, yeah, I imagine it's just something I have to go through, but I'd rather not drop a ridiculous amount of cash on lovely, low-grade tools because I don't know what I'm doing. It's a lot of research, and I do appreciate the help.

Colonel K
Jun 29, 2009
is it aviation related?

ctishman
Apr 26, 2005

Oh Giraffe you're havin' a laugh!

Colonel K posted:

is it aviation related?

Yep. It's an entry-level temporary position.

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008

âрø ÿþûþÑÂúø,
трø ÿþ трø ÿþûþÑÂúø

ctishman posted:

All right. I've taken another look at it with that in mind, and I think I've sorted it out a little more, logically.

They probably don't care what size drive it is, because they assume you'll bring your own driver, right? Thus the 1/4" refers to the socket size. So I can parse the list as follows:

  • ¼” – (12 point)
  • 3/16”, ¼”, 5/16”, ⅜”, 7/16”, ½”, 9/16” (Standard, assume six point))
  • 11/32” (unknown points)

Sound reasonable?

Edit: That's not everything on the list, of course. Here's the full minimal toolset they want me to have on Orientation day.

LED Light AAA Cell Flashlight
Hammer – 12 Oz Ball Peen
Hammer – Dead Blow or Non-Marring
Inspection Mirrir – Telescope – 2¼” diameter
Minivac
Tool Carrier
Pliers – Channel Lock
Pliers – Diagonal Cutting
Pliers – Duck Bill
Pliers – Needle Nose
Pliers – Standard
Punch Set (⅛”, 5/32”, 3/16”, ¼”)
Ratchet set and extensions – ¼”
Ratchet set and extensions – ⅜”
Scale – 6” (Measured in 1/100”)
Scissors
Screwdriver – Magnetic
Screwdriver – Common set (4”, 6”, 8”)
Screwdriver Set – Offset
Screwdriver Set – Stubby
Socket set
¼” – (12 point) 3/16”,
¼”, 5/16”, ⅜”, 7/16”, ½”, 9/16” (Standard)
11/32”
Socket set ⅜” – (12-point) up to 13/16”
Tape Measure 12’
Utility Knife (Ergonomic)
Vise Grips (6”, 8”)
Wrench Set – Ignition
Wrench Set – Combination

Honestly if your trying to stay in the industry and be taken seriously go for the good poo poo. A lot of snap on/matco/mac poo poo can be found for cheaper if you do a little research and realize that you can get the exact same tool for a lot less cause its missing the label. Knipex pliers are a great example. That said poo poo like wrenches, screw drivers (particularly impact bits, and Torx bits are way better quality than anything else if you just buy the best right away. Its not just better metal, but the tools are designed to fit more snugly and into more places so there is a lot of thought being put into a nice tool. Also if the tool guy comes around your shot he will fix and replace anything broken right on the spot. The service you get with nice poo poo is almost worth it on its own. Find a tool guy in your area, you can pay weekly or by weakly a small amount (for a long time) but its no interest and you get quality poo poo. Ive only put about 2000 bucks into stuff including my tool cart and ive been doing it for a year professionally. Good tools help you do the job faster and right the first time and in an industry where the more poo poo you do, the more money you make, you wanna be doing stuff fast and not dealing with stripped bolts and broken knuckles. Also its super retarded to be asking people to borrow their nice poo poo cause you cant make your harbor freight bullshit work.

Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Aug 12, 2013

ctishman
Apr 26, 2005

Oh Giraffe you're havin' a laugh!

Preoptopus posted:

Honestly if your trying to stay in the industry and be taken seriously go for the good poo poo. A lot of snap on/matco/mac poo poo can be found for cheaper if you do a little research and realize that you can get the exact same tool for a lot less cause its missing the label. Knipex pliers are a great example. That said poo poo like wrenches, screw drivers (particularly impact bits, and Torx bits are way better quality than anything else if you just buy the best right away. Find a tool guy in your area, you can pay weekly or by weakly a small amount (for a long time) but its no interest and you get quality poo poo. Ive only put about 2000 bucks into stuff including my tool cart and ive been doing it for a year professionally. Good tools help you do the job faster and right the first time and in an industry where the more poo poo you do, the more money you make, you wanna be doing stuff fast and not dealing with stripped bolts and broken knuckles.

A very good point, and I definitely intend to stay in the industry. I'm currently drawing up two lists: one with good parts (or what I hope are good parts, based on various internet recommendations, such as Channellock pliers, etc.) and one with the cheapest poo poo I can find on Harbor Freight. Honestly, the figures are so far about $100 apart, which doesn't make a good case for going with lovely tools. If suppliers such as Snap-On do some sort of an installment plan, I'll definitely look into that.

Colonel K
Jun 29, 2009
Good stuff, at least you won't need all that many tools.

I've been looking at trying to put together a bit of a toolkit to look after the plane. Most people seem to sugest that a comprehensive 1/4" drive imperial set will do most of what you need. The only 3/8ths drive I've used on it so far is the 7/8ths spark plug socket.

I get the impression that as fastners don't tend to be as badly corroded as automotive stuff you can get away with just reasonable quality sockets.

The important stuff is decent pliers, side cutters and a nice small 1/4 ratchet.

I didn't see safety wire pliers mentioned.

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008

âрø ÿþûþÑÂúø,
трø ÿþ трø ÿþûþÑÂúø
yea unless you buy a stupid amount of stuff they literally will charge you like 25 bucks a week. And unless you have a complete dick of a rep, you can always skip a payment if your running low. I have it set up that he just withdraws it automatically from me on pay day however if I know im gonna need to pay like a light bill or something, he will be cool with me catching him the next time around.

Also, you might wanna try your luck at swap meets, If you can find some good poo poo, the warranty will stay with the tool and even if you buy a broken ratchet or something they will fix it or replace it for you without asking for any sort of receipt or anything.

Dont get dwindled into buying a 20 thousand dollar box tho, because thats just obnoxious.

Colonel K
Jun 29, 2009

ctishman posted:

A very good point, and I definitely intend to stay in the industry. I'm currently drawing up two lists: one with good parts (or what I hope are good parts, based on various internet recommendations, such as Channellock pliers, etc.) and one with the cheapest poo poo I can find on Harbor Freight. Honestly, the figures are so far about $100 apart, which doesn't make a good case for going with lovely tools. If suppliers such as Snap-On do some sort of an installment plan, I'll definitely look into that.

You may find some of the stuff this guy talks about interesting. http://aviationmechanic.blogspot.co.uk/

ctishman
Apr 26, 2005

Oh Giraffe you're havin' a laugh!

Colonel K posted:

You may find some of the stuff this guy talks about interesting. http://aviationmechanic.blogspot.co.uk/

drat, that's fantastic. I'll add it to the list of sites I reference, near the top. Thanks!

ctishman
Apr 26, 2005

Oh Giraffe you're havin' a laugh!
One more question: The list says 'Minivac', but I can't figure out what they mean by this. Are they looking for one of the hand-held shop-vac things you see around, or the electronics-focused micro-vacs?

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.
I think that means the vacuum powered systems that help you bleed hydraulics (like your brakes).

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

ctishman posted:

All right. I've taken another look at it with that in mind, and I think I've sorted it out a little more, logically.

They probably don't care what size drive it is, because they assume you'll bring your own driver, right? Thus the 1/4" refers to the socket size. So I can parse the list as follows:

  • ¼” – (12 point)
  • 3/16”, ¼”, 5/16”, ⅜”, 7/16”, ½”, 9/16” (Standard, assume six point))
  • 11/32” (unknown points)

Sound reasonable?
I don't think that's true - they absolutely should care what size drive it is - you don't use a 1/2" drive on tiny bolts, and you can't use a 1/4" drive on huge bolts. The first situation would break things, the second wouldn't get the work done.

Standard in the context of wrench or socket sizes is also frequently referred to as SAE - it means inch measurements, rather than metric (millimeter) measurements.

I'd read that as 1/4" drive, 12 point sockets, in sizes:

3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16", 11/32"

I haven't worked on planes, but I'd guess that a lot of the finer detail stuff (ie, not wing mount bolts or landing gear, whatever) would be 1/4" drive appropriate bolts, not bigger.

ctishman
Apr 26, 2005

Oh Giraffe you're havin' a laugh!

Krakkles posted:

I don't think that's true - they absolutely should care what size drive it is - you don't use a 1/2" drive on tiny bolts, and you can't use a 1/4" drive on huge bolts. The first situation would break things, the second wouldn't get the work done.

Standard in the context of wrench or socket sizes is also frequently referred to as SAE - it means inch measurements, rather than metric (millimeter) measurements.

I'd read that as 1/4" drive, 12 point sockets, in sizes:

3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16", 11/32"

I haven't worked on planes, but I'd guess that a lot of the finer detail stuff (ie, not wing mount bolts or landing gear, whatever) would be 1/4" drive appropriate bolts, not bigger.

Ahh, okay. Yeah, the blog they mentioned said that Col. K linked mentioned that the vast majority of fittings were 1/4". So that would mean a set of 1/4" 12-points and a 6-point 11/32". Got it! Thanks!

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

ctishman posted:

A very good point, and I definitely intend to stay in the industry. I'm currently drawing up two lists: one with good parts (or what I hope are good parts, based on various internet recommendations, such as Channellock pliers, etc.) and one with the cheapest poo poo I can find on Harbor Freight. Honestly, the figures are so far about $100 apart, which doesn't make a good case for going with lovely tools. If suppliers such as Snap-On do some sort of an installment plan, I'll definitely look into that.

Snap on and Matco are INFAMOUSLY loose with credit. Youll end up owing them your hosue if yorue not careful. Make a list of what you need from them and then thats it. A Snap On roller cabinet is not worth $2000 over the "us general" one at harbor freight. That said harbor freight channel locks are maybe one of the most annoying tools you'll ever own because they SUCK compared to a really good set. This is coming from someone who LOVE harbor freight and cheap tools.

Also expect to get poo poo about whatever tools you buy unless theyre your grand dads built in USA clearly worn heirloom socket wrench.

BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot
I know we have hashed this out a few times....

But is there an ELM327 scanner that is particularly better for doing BMW/Mercedes over the rest? Or its just software?

mod sassinator
Dec 13, 2006
I came here to Kick Ass and Chew Bubblegum,
and I'm All out of Ass

Uthor posted:

I think that means the vacuum powered systems that help you bleed hydraulics (like your brakes).

I dunno, I'd ask someone to clarify--I don't know much about aviation but just based on where it's at and what else is on the list makes me think it might really be just a small vacuum for picking up debris and dirt. I imagine when working on planes it's pretty important to keep things clean and free of dirt, dust, etc.

For the rest of the list, I'd consider splurging and getting really nice pliers. You'll want something comfortable to grip and exert pressure on--in my experience Harbor Freight pliers are pretty terrible with comfort.

mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Aug 13, 2013

fps_bill
Apr 6, 2012

I worked with a dude who was an aviation mechanic who had a tits rear end set of tools. The coolest thing was the drawers in his box had black foam with cut outs for every wrench, socket, ratchet, pair if pliers, everything! He also had to have his initials and the last 4 digits of his social engraved on everything. I asked him about it and he said its a requirement because there's been aircraft brought down and entire aircrews lost because someone left a tool somewhere they shouldn't have. He also had a magnetic oil seal from an apache tail rotor stuck on the side of his box. Pretty neat stuff.

Sex Weirdo
Jul 24, 2007

CarForumPoster posted:

A Snap On roller cabinet is not worth $2000 over the "us general" one at harbor freight.

On the other hand in many automotive shops at least, you're not just buying a box, you're also buying respect. I hate to admit it but as someone said earlier, if you want to be taken seriously as a professional, buy the good poo poo. If you're an experienced technician you'd better not be rolling Harbor Freight Chinese steel into your first day at a new dealership.

Please note that I don't agree with this sentiment, but it can be the reality of some work places.

Ponies ate my Bagel
Nov 25, 2006

by T. Finninho
I'd also consider the Craftsman pro series. You can get a decent kit without breaking the bank. Throw it in a harbor freight rolling cart and splurge for a few of the nice bits. You should definitely have real vice-grips in standard and needle nose, a few different hammers and probably a good adjustable wrench. There's been a nice vice-grip style Stanley adjustable wrench linked here a hundred times that if I was just starting out again I'd get. Consider getting one tool that's unique that not a lot of people have seen. Something like the koloss ratchet/hammer, if the new kid has a quality tool the old timers haven't used or seen it can mean a lot. I also highly recommend some wobble extensions.

ctishman
Apr 26, 2005

Oh Giraffe you're havin' a laugh!
Well, I did a bit of research and made a few purchases today, prioritizing according to the linked article. Mostly Husky, as it was cheap-ish and is about half a step above Harbor Freight. I wish I could have bought more, but 'the bank' in this case is $500, and that has to cover not only tools, but food and gas until my first paycheck cashes. I Got:

Husky McCheapout
  • Pliers: Channel Lock, Diagonal Cutting, Needle Nose, Std.
  • 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" ratchets with a full set of SAE and metric extensions, along with most of the sockets I need.
  • Magnetic screwdrivers with bits
  • Standard screwdrivers in short and long
  • Stubby and offset screwdrivers
  • Combination Wrench Set
  • $20 Tool Carrier with side pockets
  • Knife
  • Scissors

Irwin
  • 10WR and 7WR Vise Grips

Total expenditure so far: $182

Still To Buy
  • A few of the more oddball sockets (⅜” 12-point 3/16”, ⅜” 12-point 1/4”, ⅜” 12-point 5/16”). Some I can get at Sears, some I'm going to have to order off the 'net.
  • Duck Bill Pliers
  • Punches
  • Ignition Wrenches
  • Minivac (waiting on clarification on exactly what they desire here)
  • Hammers
  • Inspection Mirror
  • LED Light
  • Scale

The Wish List
  • Socket Holders for my 1/4" and 3/8" bits.
  • That one really good Mac ¼” Drive (M4RC). That's apparently the unholy meeting point between 'Most-used day-to-day aviation shop tool' and 'Undisputed champion in its product category'.
  • The last time I was in Goodwill, they had a bunch of beat-up 1960s-era metal-bodied Craftsman drills for $8 apiece. Probably gone now, but if they're still there, I might get a couple and tear them apart to make one working unit.
  • Better scissors

So that's my progress so far. I fully expect the ridicule for having new tools, but I figure there's only one way to getting better, and that's to actually work. Thank you all for your help so far, and I'll keep updating as things progress!

Mooseykins
Aug 9, 2013

Triangle tits and an annoying sex voice?

Fuuuuck youuuuu sluuuut!

ctishman posted:

That one really good Mac ¼” Drive (M4RC). That's apparently the unholy meeting point between 'Most-used day-to-day aviation shop tool' and 'Undisputed champion in its product category'.

I'd look at the Snap-on T72/TF72

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=646909&PartNo=T72&group_id=682476&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=647031&PartNo=TF72&group_id=682476&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

While more expensive, they're much better. Both in being smaller for tight spaces and better build quality than Mac. Many of Mac's tools are made offshore and outsourced, but with a top-tier price tag.

I used them a lot working in very tight spaces on Euro cars, and they're great. Well worth the money. Shop around on eBay and you can get them cheaper too.

Colonel K
Jun 29, 2009
I've got the MR4C and I'd be surprised if the snap on was any / much smaller.
I've been extremely pleased with it and it's especially useful for getting in behind the engine cowling behind the prop to remove some of the fastning nuts.

e: I just looked at the link and they are far longer than the small mac. The mac can't be much more than 3" long.


The mac wobble sockets seem to be pretty nice too also being shallower than the snap on ones, I'd like to get a set, but they don't seem to be available in the UK.

Colonel K fucked around with this message at 14:55 on Aug 13, 2013

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002

fps_bill posted:

I worked with a dude who was an aviation mechanic who had a tits rear end set of tools. The coolest thing was the drawers in his box had black foam with cut outs for every wrench, socket, ratchet, pair if pliers, everything! He also had to have his initials and the last 4 digits of his social engraved on everything. I asked him about it and he said its a requirement because there's been aircraft brought down and entire aircrews lost because someone left a tool somewhere they shouldn't have. He also had a magnetic oil seal from an apache tail rotor stuck on the side of his box. Pretty neat stuff.

This is a common use for tools at Boeing--most mechanics do have or use their own tools at work and they check out tool kits where all of the tools fit into cut out foam. Its the easiest way to ensure that when the mechanic returns a tool kit, they are returning exactly all of the tools that it went out with.

Mooseykins
Aug 9, 2013

Triangle tits and an annoying sex voice?

Fuuuuck youuuuu sluuuut!

BraveUlysses posted:

This is a common use for tools at Boeing--most mechanics do have or use their own tools at work and they check out tool kits where all of the tools fit into cut out foam. Its the easiest way to ensure that when the mechanic returns a tool kit, they are returning exactly all of the tools that it went out with.

A guy i know who works for Cessna said that all the mechanics have to have shadow foam/tool control in their boxes. Everything has a place, and when work on a single job is completed all tools go back into their place to ensure nothing is missing to prevent FOD (Foreign Object Damage) to an aircraft. Supervisors also check staff's toolboxes to ensure nothing is missing.

"Proper" shadow foam is CNC cut and hugely expensive.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

Mooseykins posted:

"Proper" shadow foam is CNC cut and hugely expensive.

What's the reason for the high cost? CNC-cut foam is pretty cheap. Hell, you can build a pretty nice CNC foam cutter for under $500.

fps_bill
Apr 6, 2012

Do they have to have their initials and the last 4 of their SSN engraved on ever tool too? Or is that an army thing? The guy I mentioned earlier was a civilian working for the army. Or something like that, it was a few years ago.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber
All the tools I inherited from my grandpa's days at TWA have his initials and four numbers engraved. I always assumed it was an employee ID number, but now I guess it could be the end of his SS#. No organization or inventory system, though. Just all thrown in an old as dirt Mac roll around.

Mooseykins
Aug 9, 2013

Triangle tits and an annoying sex voice?

Fuuuuck youuuuu sluuuut!

Splizwarf posted:

What's the reason for the high cost? CNC-cut foam is pretty cheap. Hell, you can build a pretty nice CNC foam cutter for under $500.

As far as i know it's because the people who make it have to take all your tools, scan them into a computer to turn them into a CAD drawing and then arrangle them all to fit and cut the foam. Once the foam is cut it's then glued on top of another sheet, so your tools sit nice and even in their places. I assume the cost is down to the amount of time it all takes, and not the cost of the foam. Like this:



As you can see the two foam layers are usually different colours, so you can quickly and easily see if anything is missing.

fps_bill posted:

Do they have to have their initials and the last 4 of their SSN engraved on ever tool too? Or is that an army thing? The guy I mentioned earlier was a civilian working for the army. Or something like that, it was a few years ago.

I don't know about all places, but many where FOD is a large concern some kind of identification on each tool is neccessary. I work as a car mechanic, many people engrave their tools to prevent theft and for identification in case anything goes missing. A friend of mine ran a very highly-strung car repair business where employees had to have ID marks on all their tools in case anything went missing or caused damaged by being left somewhere.

Simkin
May 18, 2007

"He says he's going to be number one!"
Okay, so I picked up one paint gun locally for $30, which also included a reg and a filter. Not sure if it's going to turn out to be a good deal or not - Pro-tek doesn't seem to be out of business, so there's hope for replacement pieces if those are needed. If it shoots for poo poo, I'll use it as a primer gun.




I still have a bit of money left to pick up a better gun for base and clear coat (I don't think I can justify three guns). Do any of these seem like they'd be a good idea to pick up, or should I keep looking?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221263922277?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330989514604?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261255688344?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Alternatively, new from a place like this:
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/spray-gun-W-101/202679_551299572.html

Are these places just scams? It seems like the prices are so much better than regular online retailers, is there a reason for that?

Simkin fucked around with this message at 07:05 on Aug 14, 2013

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Simkin posted:

Alternatively, new from a place like this:
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/spray-gun-W-101/202679_551299572.html

Are these places just scams? It seems like the prices are so much better than regular online retailers, is there a reason for that?

They're directly slow-boated from China, so if you're not in a hurry maybe it's worth it. I'd not expect much from their service but I've never used those kind of things except dealxtreme once. Took a couple months to get here but it was cheap.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡
Buying an $80 thing from alibaba seems like an absolutely terrible idea. Expect worse than harbor freight quality.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


$20 sockets. From canadian tire on the left and princess auto on the right. What the poo poo.

Canadians will feel me on this one.



Also, my torque is multipying! :supaburn:

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.
This certainly seems like a safe hammer design.

peepsalot
Apr 24, 2007

        PEEP THIS...
           BITCH!

Uthor posted:

This certainly seems like a safe hammer design.


Wanna chuck that in my drill :unsmigghh:

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!
Next week on Tool Time, how to planish with your drill press!

mod sassinator
Dec 13, 2006
I came here to Kick Ass and Chew Bubblegum,
and I'm All out of Ass

peepsalot posted:

Wanna chuck that in my drill :unsmigghh:

I bet it would make one hell of a router bit too.

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Uthor posted:

This certainly seems like a safe hammer design.


Should be captioned: "How to get sued in to oblivion"

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Ponies ate my Bagel
Nov 25, 2006

by T. Finninho
x-post from the stupid question thread because it's about a tool and a stupid question:

I was just offered an older Hobart TIG welder for $400. It's a 230v water-cooled Unit and I did see it work. I don't know a lot about TIG, but I want to learn. I've been using a cheap Harbor-Freight flux core welder for like an hour every night, I've just been sticking stuff together but I really enjoy it. This thing is BIG, I'd say the unit itself is close to 3 feet deep/tall and 2 1/2 feet wide. It comes on a cart with the entire water-cooling setup and I'd have to buy my own bottle.

It looks like this one, but with an extra knob and a cart/watercooling setup.



I can't afford a newer TIG like a dynasty. Should I buy this?

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