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I was hoping someone could help me out. Years ago I posted pictures of my Warhammer Fantasy High Elves on SA. I have since sold the army, and over the past year, I have lost every photo of the army I've ever taken. It's a longshot, but I was hoping someone could help me with finding the pictures I've posted. This would have been around 2007, under this username, and the models in question were painted in a red scheme.
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Aug 20, 2013 00:03
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Dirty Job posted:I was hoping someone could help me out. Years ago I posted pictures of my Warhammer Fantasy High Elves on SA. I have since sold the army, and over the past year, I have lost every photo of the army I've ever taken. It's a longshot, but I was hoping someone could help me with finding the pictures I've posted. Very unlikely that they're still around. Most if not all of the WaffleImages mirrors are down now and that was before imgur. Any other hosting site would have almost certainly deleted them by now, especially if nobody has viewed the files in forever.
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Aug 20, 2013 00:09
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Dirty Job posted:I was hoping someone could help me out. Years ago I posted pictures of my Warhammer Fantasy High Elves on SA. I have since sold the army, and over the past year, I have lost every photo of the army I've ever taken. It's a longshot, but I was hoping someone could help me with finding the pictures I've posted. Looks like you may have hosted them on a Photobucket account under the name mrpockets? Might want to try here.
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Aug 20, 2013 00:20
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krushgroove posted:Pretty cool - are you going to brighten up the white a bit or leave it weathered like it seems to be? The white is staying. I might add some chipping to his armor or something, it's a bit boring right now. Blood on the axe seems appropriate at well. Anyway, here's a guy on a horse!    
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Aug 20, 2013 00:41
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Verdugo posted:Has anyone used Vallejo Smoke? I picked up a bottle of it at my FLGS, and from what I can tell it's a brown wash that needs to be thinned. Any advice? What makes it different from normal washes is that it has a bunch of little particulate matter in it that makes the underlying material look textured and gritty (although it paints on smoothly). It also doesn't deepen reds like a normal brown wash would. This BrushThralls article does a side-by-side comparison of a Smoke wash and a brown ink wash, over both flat brown and metallic base coats. If you're painting Warmachine jacks, think of it as Instant Boiler Grime.
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Aug 20, 2013 00:54
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Would VMC Smoke work well through an Airbrush as a transparent black, for adding shadows to terrain? I need to find a good source of transparent black. Edit: Inside corners are now done.   It only added four more pieces to the total part-list as well, and they are small. Now I need to do something for the roof sections, id like to have some kind of railing, or cover up there. And an example of a non-standard building shape.  
LumberingTroll fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Aug 20, 2013 |
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Aug 20, 2013 01:24
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The best part about painting a mini that you can tell is gonna turn out poo poo, halfway thru? Going "gently caress it!" and just experimenting with things to see how they look.
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Aug 20, 2013 02:46
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Nurgle Ohm-Heldrake conversion finally underway: That greenstuff bit holding the gun is the first time I've ever used greenstuff. It was very fun! To get a good texture I frantically looked around my room for something, then I used the tentacles on my Cthulhu figure. Came out allright. Here is the original model for comparison:  The plan is to get a cool pair of wings and stick that on the top of the model, then mount that on a large flying base. The legs are going to go on as well, I just have to see if I can somehow make it look more like it's flying, not crawling. I might get some HE griffon wings, which could look great, since it's so very out of place for a big bug like this and makes for a very mutated Chaos monstrosity. I also bought a cheap dragon model from Regiments of Renown (apparently same chassis as Malekith dragon) and might cut the wings from that. Not sure about the look, having bat/dragon wings. Not weird enough. Plus the dragon model might make for a great Lord of Change conversion after this! I then plan to paint Nausicaa (girl model) gray and make a terrain statue out of it. Might look like something that was commemorating a martyr, or something found outside of an orphanage. It might look very tragic and reminiscent of the horrors of war. So in other words, great for Warhammer! The little fox-bunny might look good on the statue's base, painted as a living thing. That way it might look like the little thing keeps coming to Nausicaa's memorial, long after she died. Meanwhile a mutated, flying Ohm is raining death upon a war-torn landscape. Anyway, I'd love some tips on clever things to do. You can put missiles on the side so that it looks like it was hit by them and they're stuck in it, as depicted on the model box image. I'd love to do some effects that look like gore or pus leaking out of the wounds. Some green ichor around the gun or legs or something would also be great. Any advice or tips on how do to that, what products to use/avoid? Very inexperienced with this sort of stuff, would appreciate anything that could be of assistance!
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Aug 20, 2013 03:46
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TheHoosier posted:There's a slight chance I'm mentally and physically incapable of painting my plastic dudes. I spent part of the afternoon watching videos on washes and how to make them and base coats and etc... It's kinda hard to say exactly what is going wrong without knowing what brand of paints and supplies and techniques are being used but just off the top of my head: If you are washing something with a pre-formulated wash, the wash doesn't need to be watered down. Don't try to make your own washes if you are just getting into painting. It's not as easy as any YouTube video makes it look, making your own washes and/or airbrush paints. Metallic paints don't turn into washes. An easy way to make something look metallic is do a base coat of black/dark gray and then dry brush on the metallic paint. If your paint just runs off the model then you thinned it down too much. Your primer might have gone bad as well. If you get those pictures up you'll get a lot of pointers from here. Definitely don't quit on a miniature because it seems like it's coming out bad, you'll never improve your skills without following all the way through. Miniatures can always be stripped a year from now when your painting has improved. I'm currently stripping down the first miniatures I ever painted almost a year and a half ago. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Aug 20, 2013 |
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Aug 20, 2013 03:55
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I finished painting my guys for the oath thread, but still needed to weather them. I didn't want to learn to use pigments this time (despite buying them specifically for this month's theme), so I hit drybrushed some rust and washed some parts brown to get 'em dirty. Thebn I based both of them in mud. For the farmer guy, I mixed dark brown paint with my snow flock and slathered that on there, and then hit it with a 2:1 medium:water mix to set it in. I did this because I forgot that I (1) Have some basing materials and (2) Have some water effects stuff. For the knight guy, I remembered both (1) and (2) and mixed Secret Weapon's Realistic Water with my dirt flock and slathered that on the base and the mini's feet. Then I dropped some Marsh Blend static grass and sort of pushed it down into the mud to break things up a bit. I have no idea how either one of these are going to look come morning when they're all dry - I just hope I didn't screw up the guys, because I was pretty proud of the paint jobs on both of them. It's a learning experience either way, though!
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Aug 20, 2013 05:54
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I got the email yesterday...my Reaper Bones are on the way! Makes me wish I had more money when I'd pledged but a) I will have a MASSIVE backlog of models to paint when I get them anyway, and b) they'll be cheap enough I can pick them up whenever I want.Bolverkur posted:Nurgle Ohm-Heldrake conversion finally underway: Ah wow, that's awesome! Perfect size, maybe just a *tiny* bit too big but still really cool. I'm planning to make something similar to the back end of that for my heldrake-spam list, and hopefully cast it if it's any good. That's so cool the squirrel-fox is included - I actually have the stuffed animal version on a shelf (life-size). I'm a sucker for most Ghibli stuff... Anyway - ideas for wounds and wings: create a couple of depressions/divots on the sides and Green Stuff some broken chitin, as well as some ooze coming out of them try water effects or hot glue, dripping from the wounds, mouth or rear end, and stain it with a brown or green wash for extra ickiness try the wings (and legs maybe!) from the Nurgle Plague Drones, ebay sellers list them, I picked up a couple of pairs for my heldrakes-to-be if you want to go further with the mutated monstrosity look with out-of-place wings try Dark Eldar Scourge wings, very popular seller with bitz sellers
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Aug 20, 2013 10:26
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Verdugo posted:Has anyone used Vallejo Smoke? I picked up a bottle of it at my FLGS, and from what I can tell it's a brown wash that needs to be thinned. Any advice? I use it all the time for all sorts of stuff. For most uses you should thin it way down and it will stain metals really nice. Pretty much instant weathering. I sometimes use it for regular shadows too in the deepest parts and then I go straight from the bottle with a teeny amount of water just get better flow. It takes some time to dry when it's undiluted so you can get some pretty good transitions through blending with it. It's a very fun medium to play around with and you can also do stuff like add a small amount to water effects to get more naturally looking puddles on bases and stuff.
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Aug 20, 2013 11:15
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Achmed Jones posted:I finished painting my guys for the oath thread, but still needed to weather them. I didn't want to learn to use pigments this time (despite buying them specifically for this month's theme), so I hit drybrushed some rust and washed some parts brown to get 'em dirty. Thebn I based both of them in mud. I would say that you should consider trying your pigments out anyway. There's a number of fantastic methods to try. You could cake the pigment on like a thick paste and when it dries, wipe it away from the ridges. You can slather it on dry and wipe it off with a qtip and a bit of water. You could also just lightly apply the dust in various areas and finish it all up with a bit of alcohol to keep it in place (if you sealed prior, don't do this without a varnish protecting your prior work). It's such a simple and easy step that for you to not start messing with it seems a shame. If you seal your model before trying it out you can literally wash away any mistakes you dislike.
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Aug 20, 2013 11:40
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After much teeth-gnashing and Gods-cursing, I managed to paint my Chaos Marines. I'll spare you a bunch of really bad pictures (mostly due to light issues) and just post one lone dude.  Critique please. I actually kind of like how it came out. With the lack of lighting you can't really see the gold trim or the highlighting, but I think for a beginner it's okay.
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Aug 20, 2013 15:07
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I think for a beginner it looks very good, especially considering the difficulty taking a good picture. I feel like it bears repeating: if you can apply areas of color that don't look like caky, streaky poo poo and have reasonably good-looking edges, hit it with an appropriate wash, and maybe for extra credit do something that could be called highlighting, then you are already MILES ahead of the game by many metrics. Hell, what I just described is 95% of what I personally do still and my models not only look good on the table in my eyes, but get more than their fair share of compliments (this is obviously context-specific; I don't play with any Golden Daemon winners or anything).
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Aug 20, 2013 19:10
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JerryLee posted:I think for a beginner it looks very good, especially considering the difficulty taking a good picture. Thank you... it's like suddenly everything clicked. I highlighted the bolter in gunmetal gray, the armor and gold trim in white, then doused the rest in Nuln Oil wash. After it dried, I was super proud of it and couldn't wait to post it. It won't win awards, but it's nice to have an okay-looking model after that lovely Cultist I painted.
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Aug 20, 2013 19:21
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Whats the secret to getting wash to apply without it drying too quickly and looking splotchy? I tend to avoid washes on large flat surfaces for this reason.
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Aug 20, 2013 19:28
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Avoid using washes on large flat surfaces, mostly. They're for corners and edges, nooks and crannies, places that would give drop shadows. So paint them into those corners.
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Aug 20, 2013 19:30
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Awesome, that's what I have been doing.
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Aug 20, 2013 19:34
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Bavius posted:I would say that you should consider trying your pigments out anyway. There's a number of fantastic methods to try. You could cake the pigment on like a thick paste and when it dries, wipe it away from the ridges. You can slather it on dry and wipe it off with a qtip and a bit of water. You could also just lightly apply the dust in various areas and finish it all up with a bit of alcohol to keep it in place (if you sealed prior, don't do this without a varnish protecting your prior work). It's such a simple and easy step that for you to not start messing with it seems a shame. If you seal your model before trying it out you can literally wash away any mistakes you dislike. I took your advice and went for it! I'm not sure how successful I was, but I'm glad I got into the pigments. I'm not so great at seeing reds, so a lot of the application was guesswork. I applied the pigments with a brush and then finished with alcohol to hold them in place. Here's the result:   And here's the farmer (no pigments for him, though), because why not!   Criticism is highly appreciated!
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Aug 20, 2013 19:34
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Also don't be too stingy with the wash. If it's drying too quickly, you're not applying enough. Don't slather your mini in it, obviously, but keep in mind that like 90% of it's going to evaporate away.
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Aug 20, 2013 19:36
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I don't have that many problems using washes to shade larger areas, especially since the new line of GW washes came out (they seem to be formulated better for avoiding pooling, though it's still not foolproof). It helps for me when I make sure to spread it evenly and smoothly before it dries out. This is assuming you're talking about explicit splotching/pooling. There are usually some gentle variations in shade across a large area, but that's usually the look I'm going for, and when it's not I find that touching up with the original color is often easier than trying to pin wash from the get-go. vvv Okay, yeah, for relatively huge models like vehicles, you'd want to do that (to avoid wasting wash if nothing else). I was thinking of stuff like power armor. JerryLee fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Aug 20, 2013 |
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Aug 20, 2013 19:38
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Akay posted:Whats the secret to getting wash to apply without it drying too quickly and looking splotchy? I tend to avoid washes on large flat surfaces for this reason. This is the secret. Matgash posted:
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Aug 20, 2013 19:41
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You can also slop wash all the hell over flat broad surfaces and then tidy it up with your base color after it's dried. That's how I shaded that huge French tank earlier in the thread, and I think it worked well. E F'ing B moths fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Aug 20, 2013 |
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Aug 20, 2013 19:45
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Akay posted:Whats the secret to getting wash to apply without it drying too quickly and looking splotchy? I tend to avoid washes on large flat surfaces for this reason. Pretty much everything has already been said. Avoid surfaces where the wash won't run into a crevice. You can use your brush like a siphon to pull excess wash off if you dab the brush on a paper towel beforehand. Go back in and paint over the excess wash. You can also dry brush the base over the excess wash and that will leave the model with more gradual shading instead of super clean lines. Base, wash, dry brush is a solid method to give your models shading depth very quickly. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Aug 20, 2013 |
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Aug 20, 2013 20:05
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Yeah good call, the whole thing you do with a brush to siphon up excess wash is called Capillary Action. basically water can slip in narrow spaces without much help from outside sources, so what you do is make sure your brush is nice and dry and then dip it into your wash or whatever, and it'll soak up into the brush.
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Aug 20, 2013 21:04
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Another tip, especially on larger areas or vehicles is to gloss varnish before adding the wash as the wash will flow much more easily into the correct areas and its much easier to correct overspill with a cotton bud and water or alcohol.
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Aug 20, 2013 23:02
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Finished my Deathwing Knights! If anyone paints a full squad of 10 of these, they are a masochist.        
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Aug 21, 2013 00:03
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Painting overly-detailed terminators- been there, done that, never again. Look pretty good though I think you could clean up the green highlights. Other than that, sweet stuff as always.
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Aug 21, 2013 01:26
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Second Mierce figure I've painted, Galhwch Lladd Llaw. Figure stands about a full head taller than the plastic Demon Prince from GW. Tried some thing a little new for the metallics. Boltgun, Fuegan Orange glaze over everything, Devlan on top of that, highlights with Mithril. Turned out very groovy, lots of variety, looks better than my standard Devlan over Boltgun I've been using for a while. Interested in trying the same thing with the other glazes.    
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Aug 21, 2013 03:05
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I really like the look of that glaze. The rest of your technique is pretty similar to how I do metallics, so I'll have to try that out. Do you have some secret hoard of Boltgun/Mithril? If so I hate you. I'm just about out and saving them for special models. I hate the new GW metallics. P3 stuff is not terrible, but just not the same.
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Aug 21, 2013 03:09
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The search for my old pictures continues, but good news is that I managed to find a couple really old ones on the Warseer gallery! This is the first high elf I've ever painted. It feels good to reminisce.     edit: Holy gently caress, I found them. I can't believe I found them.      
Verisimilidude fucked around with this message at 03:41 on Aug 21, 2013 |
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Aug 21, 2013 03:12
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Fyrbrand posted:I really like the look of that glaze. The rest of your technique is pretty similar to how I do metallics, so I'll have to try that out. I'm using one of the new pots of Boltgun. Not as good as the old stuff, not quite as smooth, but still way better than P3. I've been using the same pot of Mithril forever it feels like, only use it for highlights really, should last me a while unless it dries out on me. I pretty much despise all other metallics besides those two, it's a good thing Boltgun takes so well to manipulating it with washes/glazes. Down to a little under two pots of Devlan though. Agrax and the Strong Tone quickshade from Warpaints are acceptable substitutes, but they don't have the same matte effect as Devlan, which is in full force on this model.
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Aug 21, 2013 03:22
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Is there a good trick to getting persistent dried paint off brushes?
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Aug 21, 2013 03:38
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You gotta condition those brushes son. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoovPge1Rq4
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Aug 21, 2013 03:48
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Can some of you guys post your lovely starter models, then how good you got 3 months later. Seeing the poo poo that I paint compared to some of the gems in this thread is kinda discouraging. 
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Aug 21, 2013 04:09
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Oxford Comma posted:Can some of you guys post your lovely starter models, then how good you got 3 months later. Seeing the poo poo that I paint compared to some of the gems in this thread is kinda discouraging. I will do this, just for you, when I get home. My first years of models are appallingly bad, despite my best effort. Just gotta keep cracking, brave gentlegoon. The best advice I can give here is to be accepting of feedback and implement it on your next model. It won't take you long at all to get to the level of this thread if that is where you want to be. You're a diamond in the rough  .
Red Herring fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Aug 21, 2013 |
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Aug 21, 2013 04:24
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Fyrbrand posted:Painting overly-detailed terminators- been there, done that, never again. Look pretty good though I think you could clean up the green highlights. Other than that, sweet stuff as always.
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Aug 21, 2013 04:50
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Oxford Comma posted:Can some of you guys post your lovely starter models, then how good you got 3 months later. Seeing the poo poo that I paint compared to some of the gems in this thread is kinda discouraging. Tell you what, I'll dig out my first painted model - a broadside and put it side-by-side with my latest model when I get off work tomorrow morning. I'm curious to see how terrible I still am.
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Aug 21, 2013 05:19
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Oxford Comma posted:Can some of you guys post your lovely starter models, then how good you got 3 months later. Seeing the poo poo that I paint compared to some of the gems in this thread is kinda discouraging. How about Ten year to 14 year old me? this is the last time I painted regually.   I'd hate to see the desert that these guys are cammoed for..... And after a 15 year break from painting, this is what I have been able to do for the oath thread.  
Grey Hunter fucked around with this message at 08:46 on Aug 21, 2013 |
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Aug 21, 2013 08:41
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