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I really like my P3 paints. Their black has good coverage and you don't need to thin it much.
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Sep 3, 2013 02:14
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BULBASAUR posted:I really like my P3 paints. Their black has good coverage and you don't need to thin it much. Idk, I've never had any issues with GW's blacks. I also have never tried any other kind of paint. Is it that poo poo?
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Sep 3, 2013 03:16
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The old Chaos Black was fine. Abaddon Black has trouble covering grey easily.
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Sep 3, 2013 03:43
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I'm having better luck covering black with averland sunset (yellow) than I am covering light grey with black. I'm about to just order 1 of every black paint I can get off the warstore in the hopes that one of them ends up working.
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Sep 3, 2013 03:53
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thespaceinvader posted:What's the best way to mask off areas before priming that you don't want to get primed (mostly because of wanting to glue them)? I've been using blu-tac, but I think it probably affects how well the glue bonds... Silly Putty makes great masking putty. It doesn't hold it's form as well as blu-tac and it isn't as sticky but it doesn't leave any residue (I don't think blu-tac has any residue but who knows for sure) and it won't stick to plastic so much so that bits of it tear off and stick to the plastic like blu-tac. It's also pliable enough to stretch out and mask odd shapes. I covered an entire Daemon Prince with wings with silly putty just so I could airbrush it's sword. Booley posted:I hate painting black. Who makes a good black that covers decently and is fairly thin, or at least thinnable. GWs old Chaos Black was great, but abaddon black is either too thick with poor coverage, or thinned down has even worse coverage. Minitaire black is great to airbrush on, but doesn't have great coverage. Which black paint does everyone else use? I use Vallejo GAME Color Black (not Model or Air) and then I thin it with one drop of Future. This is my go-to for repainting bases and touching up black paint jobs. I couldn't tell you the exact ratio because I'm so used to eyeballing it and Game Color doesn't really come out in drops but it looks about 1.5:1 Paint:Future. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Sep 3, 2013 |
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Sep 3, 2013 03:55
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Is it possible you have grease on the area you're painting? Lately I've been using a lot of flow improver and matte medium in my paint mixing. It's really helped with keeping my layers super thin. That trick with the Future is really good too- I use it for large areas where I want to avoid pooling.
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Sep 3, 2013 04:37
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I could use some help starting out. I used to crappily paint Ral Partha lead figurines when I was young and enjoyed the idea of returning to painting and setting up an army for a local gaming place that opened up in my area. I'm reviewing some painting tutorials amf going over links in the OP. But I could use a hand setting up a color scheme for my initial foray. I have a bunch of Tau - lots of Tau Fire Warriors, a Crisis Team, a Commander, a Devilfish, Stealth Suits (2 new plastic and 4 older metal) and about a dozen Kroot. These are the paints I currently have access to (mostly from the Citadel Starter Set): Waagh Flesh Leadbelcher Mephiston Red Khorne Red Macragge Blue Averland Sunset Tau Light Ochre Bugman's Glow Mournfang Brown White Scar Vallejo Bone White Imperial Primer Any thoughts on a good combination with which to approach my army? Appreciate any help. I'm fine with messing up with the brush, but would hate to sit back and regret the color choice.
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Sep 3, 2013 04:48
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I have highlighted black vehicles with a pencil, but you obviously need to apply some varnish on that.
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Sep 3, 2013 06:13
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Bo-Pepper posted:
You're in luck; I've been spamming my friend with tau schemes I've seen posted here and in the oath thread that I thought were cool. Here's a few of the good ones:         I don't know what colors these schemes are, precisely, but for the most part they follow a pattern that's true of many armies. 1. Primary army color. Most of the model is basically a single color. On Tau, that's usually the armor plating. 2. Secondary color. This is a color that gets used on the mechanical poo poo behind the plating and the fabric on the firewarriors and pathfinders. It's usually darker than the main color, so as not to overwhelm the primary one. 3. Accent color. This is a bright color that's used to call attention to or differentiate units that would otherwise look the same. Your leader looks a lot more impressive when he's set off with this color rather than just saying "we'll he's the crisis suit with the two plasma guns." With tau, a lot of times it's accomplished by painting the helmet differently (this happens with marines, too.) Tau skin is blue by fluff, so sergeants and poo poo have this effect naturally if they don't wear helmets. 4. Fiddly poo poo color. This color is for when you need to differentiate parts but need to do it in something else so it won't get confused with your accent color. It gets used for scopes and doo-dads and other stuff. The dudes in the first image by Booley fit the four-color scheme pretty well: They're predominantly olive green, the primary army color. they are secondarily black, a color for the guns and mechanics that doesn't overwhelm the green. He uses bright blue to set off his unit leader (they all get a little blue, of course, since they are Cool Dudes in crisis suits) and they all have brown on them in different areas to individualize. Between his color scheme and his posing, you have three models that are basically identical but have an individual feel. A final thing to think about is what colors you want to *exclude* from your scheme. Your guys can be defined by the absence of a color, too. I don't think Booley made a whole army out of these green dudes (was it a kill-team?) but I really doubt if he did you'd see any red, orange, or yellow in it. tl;dr Pick a bold color for your armor, a dark color for your under-parts, a bright color for your special guys, and a complimentary color for your fiddly poo poo.
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Sep 3, 2013 07:03
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I guess what I like on Tau is black/white/grey and a color.
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Sep 3, 2013 07:16
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Tidied up the magnets on my Mawloc and touched it up a bit. All the magnetic Mawloc parts have dirt on them, but the Trygon will be clean. Magnetized Trygon bits should be touched up soon as well, and hopefully I can someday get the bits for a Prime version. I gave mine away - I knew giving away all my old Tyranid bits was a terrible idea! Hopefully we start to see more Tyranid armies with a new Codex on the horizon. Now's the time to get started on those Gaunts so you can do the fun things when the book is out!
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Sep 3, 2013 07:37
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Leperflesh posted:Basically, what you do is you start with some midtoned color of paint which you are using as your base coat. Say you're painting a guy's pants and they're green? So you you use a midtone green. Thanks for the tip. Let me see if I got it. Let's say I'm painting an orc with Warboss Green (former gobling green). I paint the arm until I get an even coat. I was it with Biel-Tan Green. Now the muscle is darker and the crevices darker-er. Now I paint only the muscles, making sure the crevices are not touched by the paint. You then mentioned painting a new coat, this time touching only the highest bits. Won't it look the same because it's the same color? Or should I wash the second coat as well? Or should I pick lighter colors for the raised areas? I honestly love painting; I've had some very stressful times lately, and sitting down and just focusing my attention in something that is barely bigger than a coin, and realize that it didn't come out as horrible as I thought it would has been really great. I know that my stuff is tabletop ready (the paint is thin enough, so it doesn't look like I submerged them in it and actually stays within the edges) but I look up to some of the stuff here and can't wait to reach a level similar to that.  EDIT: I think my choice of miniatures, orc boyz and warhog boyz (or whatever the name is) is good, since they are simple enough. If you can suggest something else I should try, let me know (same thing if you wanna suggest paints, but I'm probably pushing it a lot). Thank you so much!
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Sep 3, 2013 10:02
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Non Serviam posted:Thanks for the tip. Let me see if I got it. If you're painting orcs, I would reccommend basecoating them yellow and washing them with thraka green -- the green wash really makes it pop that way. Example: http://www.miniwargaming.com/content/3OeWD3dwJhm0
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Sep 3, 2013 17:12
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Non Serviam posted:You then mentioned painting a new coat, this time touching only the highest bits. Won't it look the same because it's the same color? Or should I wash the second coat as well? Or should I pick lighter colors for the raised areas? This is an option if you decide you want to add to the highlighting effect. It involves mixing paint, though. What you want to do is take some of your base color and put it on a palette or piece of plastic or a piece of wax paper or whatever. And then add a teeny tiny drop of something to lighten the color. If you are painting a midtone green, I'd add a tiny drop of yellow. Mix it in with the tip of your brush and then use that as your highlight. This takes some practice, though. It's easy to add too much to your mix; on the palette, the change in color can be hard to see, but once you start painting it onto the figure, it'll stand out more. Some people like a really subtle highlight and some like a really stark one. The difficulty is also in getting a consistent mix, if you're painting a lot of figures over time; today's highlight mix might not be the same as next week's, so then you wind up with one batch of orcs that looks different from the next batch of orcs. But this is all an optional thing. I suggest starting with the base-wash-highlight (so, three layers) technique first. Get the hang of that, and then experiment with a fourth, mixed-highlight layer, as described above. Finally: why yellow, and not white? Well, because white just gives you a paler tint, and that tends to look unnatural. If your figure is standing outside, chances are the light falling on him isn't pure white. Using yellow gives you a yellower shade of green, which will look more natural. If you were painting something brown, you'd maybe add a drop of a tan color; if you were painting something purple, maybe add a drop of a light red. Basically, bringing up a highlight by using something other than white tends to give more natural-looking results. This is something you can experiment with, of course. What color you use to bring up the highlight is a matter of style and personal choice.
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Sep 3, 2013 17:38
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Which colour cloth do I use? Light, bright cloth, or a darker type? The photo came out a bit over saturated.  Also, gotta move away from the new GW paints. They are super oily, means getting a smooth transition ain't easy.
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Sep 3, 2013 17:43
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Leperflesh posted:But this is all an optional thing. I suggest starting with the base-wash-highlight (so, three layers) technique first. Get the hang of that, and then experiment with a fourth, mixed-highlight layer, as described above. So, as I said in my example, Green, wash, the same green only in the raised areas? WOuldn't that just leave the crevices darker? Even though I know this is the right thing to do, since I saw it in a book too, I can't imagine it looking good. I will post pictures once I get that done then [quote="Verdugo" post="419071150"] If you're painting orcs, I would reccommend basecoating them yellow and washing them with thraka green -- the green wash really makes it pop that way. Example: http://www.miniwargaming.com/content/3OeWD3dwJhm0 I have been doing that, actually. Got the idea from that very site; however, the skin isn't coming out as smooth... probably because I'm lazy and give up quickly when I see that yellow on a black primer (I know, I know) does not go well. If I was to continue with this method, however, how would I do the highlights? Adding yellow on top and then washing it doesn't sound... rational. I'm sorry for all the dumb questions. 
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Sep 3, 2013 18:09
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Yes, the idea is for the crevices to seem darker. Give it a try if it doesn't seem intuitive to you at first.
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Sep 3, 2013 18:23
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Non Serviam posted:So, as I said in my example, Green, wash, the same green only in the raised areas? WOuldn't that just leave the crevices darker? Yes. But, it'll actually give you more than just two shades on your model! The reason is that the wash pools in the crevices. So, you get a gradient on the painted part, from light at the high points to dark in the crevices, as soon as you do the wash. Then going back with the base color to hit the highlights adds to that gradient. The end result is more than just two shades. Try it out! Remember that a wash has to be thinned; you can use something specifically intended as a wash for best results (these are transluscent and have flow aids added, which makes them ideal) or you can just thin a color way down so it's translucent (but this is less effective because it won't pool as well).
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Sep 3, 2013 18:28
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Leperflesh posted:Yes. But, it'll actually give you more than just two shades on your model! The reason is that the wash pools in the crevices. So, you get a gradient on the painted part, from light at the high points to dark in the crevices, as soon as you do the wash. I have Citadel washes. I found contradictory opinions online as to whether they should be thinned or not. I did notice that washes, on their own, almost melt the paint, so they probably should be thinned. Again with the muscles.... you really want me to paint all the raised part, except the crevices? :P What models do you recommend, by the way? I've had fun with the orcs, which I'll finish now, but after that I don't know what to tackle that won't be just a waste of money.
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Sep 3, 2013 18:40
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Non Serviam posted:washes, on their own, almost melt the paint, so they probably should be thinned.
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Sep 3, 2013 18:56
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I've been working on some lizardmen and I'm kind of stuck.  I like how this guys scales turned out (green, blue and some yellow) but I pretty much can't figure out what to do with his spikes or the shield. Originally I was going with yellow but that looks terrible, especially with the gold Any thoughts on some directions I could take? I was thinking a dark purple might be cool, but I wanted to get some opinions before I did too much else.
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Sep 3, 2013 19:12
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Did I get a bad batch or is GW Ceramite White supposed to have the consistency of emulsion? I can't get it to go on smooth at all. If I'm gonna paint Black Templars, I think I'll be priming the shoulders seperately, or I'm going to end up killing someone. Gyro Zeppeli fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Sep 3, 2013 |
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Sep 3, 2013 19:17
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Non Serviam posted:I have Citadel washes. I found contradictory opinions online as to whether they should be thinned or not. I did notice that washes, on their own, almost melt the paint, so they probably should be thinned. As Pierzak said, if the wash is mixing with the paint on the mini, the paint on the mini wasn't completely dry yet. Keep in mind that the paint will dry from the surface down, so the surface may look dry while just below it there's still wet paint. You can use a hair dryer to accelerate drying if you're impatient. It's also OK to thin washes a little, too, of course. As for what to paint? Pick something you like. If you are interested in the figure, you'll be more likely to paint it and follow through on your paint job. Within that category, go for something of normal size (e.g., a dude, in whatever scale you normally paint; in this case, 28mm. So not a huge monster or a tiny gremlin) with not a huge ton of little gribbly bits (so you don't get too bogged down painting tiny little thingies on the miniature). If you're bored with orcs, pick something else. Personally I like to dig through the discount bin at the local game store and pick out anything that looks interesting. A lot of the stuff in there is in there because it's for a game nobody is playing, or it's an unpopular choice for that game, but that doesn't necessarily have anything to do with the look of the model. Well, I used to do that. Now I have hundreds and hundreds of unpainted miniatures, so I try not to do that any more.
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Sep 3, 2013 19:26
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Non Serviam posted:I have Citadel washes. I found contradictory opinions online as to whether they should be thinned or not. I did notice that washes, on their own, almost melt the paint, so they probably should be thinned. Non Serviam posted:What models do you recommend, by the way? I've had fun with the orcs, which I'll finish now, but after that I don't know what to tackle that won't be just a waste of money. Something to remember though - washes (and drybrushing) work best on models/surfaces with a lot of detail (fur, heavy muscles, etc.) Models with large flat areas (like Space Marines) are actually pretty difficult to paint well. Just keep that in mind after you're done with Orks and have moved on.
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Sep 3, 2013 19:30
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Verdugo posted:If you're painting orcs, I would reccommend basecoating them yellow and washing them with thraka green -- the green wash really makes it pop that way. Example: http://www.miniwargaming.com/content/3OeWD3dwJhm0 Haha. I didn't know that tutorial was still out there. I might have been a little drunk when I wrote it. Between this thread and the 40k thread, I've really been wanting to paint more orks lately.
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Sep 3, 2013 20:08
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I finished painting a thing.     
Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Sep 4, 2013 |
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Sep 3, 2013 20:58
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 Pretty bird!
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Sep 3, 2013 21:02
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ghetto wormhole posted:
Empty quotin' this because its true.
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Sep 3, 2013 21:08
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EDIT ^^^ That bird looks great. I was wondering where it disappeared off to after the last pics of itthespaceinvader posted:What's the best way to mask off areas before priming that you don't want to get primed (mostly because of wanting to glue them)? I've been using blu-tac, but I think it probably affects how well the glue bonds... I think the residue that you sometimes see from using blu-tac might be coming from the oils of your fingers (especially if you re-use it a few times). Try using brand new tac whilst wearing thin rubber gloves. That should keep it clean, and stop any muck adhering to the plastic
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Sep 3, 2013 22:52
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prxi posted:I've been working on some lizardmen and I'm kind of stuck. Orange and purple are appropriate colors for contrast, being only one step from red, the true contrast of green. I'd pick one of them (orange) and then use earthtones and grays for as much of everything else as i could get away with for fear of having a technicolor nightmare.
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Sep 3, 2013 22:59
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prxi posted:I've been working on some lizardmen and I'm kind of stuck. Maybe blend off-white up the spines and a darker green for the shield? That'll pop the spines out a bit, and a good deep non-blue green should give the shield enough contract to show up well - think crocodile scales.
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Sep 3, 2013 23:38
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VogeGandire posted:Did I get a bad batch or is GW Ceramite White supposed to have the consistency of emulsion? I can't get it to go on smooth at all. Ceramite White is super goopy, I usually water it down heavily. Someone explained it to me before that you want it somewhere between milk and water consistency. It's better if it's really diluted than having streaky lines. It dries up really loving fast, re wet the palette every few minutes.
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Sep 4, 2013 00:20
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VogeGandire posted:Did I get a bad batch or is GW Ceramite White supposed to have the consistency of emulsion? I can't get it to go on smooth at all. I bought a pot of Ceramite White when they first came out and it was ridiculously super thick. Practically impossible to paint with thick without very heavy thinning. I went to go use it about a week ago and it was so thick my Badger Paint Mixer seized up trying to mix it. I think the base formula they used is just bad. It seems like way too much work to get it to paint consistency for something that is supposed to be a base coat. Personally I'd just take the time to primer white anything that will be white on the final model rather than try and get that Ceramite White working.
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Sep 4, 2013 01:09
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Well my office has only been set up at the new apartment for a little over a week, and I've already made a mess! The sad thing is that this is just a fraction of my to-do list.  Here we have some terrain pieces for my in-house table. Freshly poured Super Glaze on those pieces on the left (praying that it doesn't seep and spill over before it cures  ). Hiding behind the ballasted pieces is my September oath, a Skorne Tyrant Commander and Standard Bearer (he has many many Skorne friends on the above mentioned to-do list, but they are packed away at the moment). Some more terrain in progress, as well as a lineup of post-apocalyptic minis for a pipe dream game I want to make/design/whatever. They are joined by some Protectorate Paladins of the Wall that I am painting for a friend to pay off the Dropzone Commander starter set he bought me back at TempleCon in February (also that boxed up Harbinger). Behind them is the beginnings of a Lizardmen army that will be sadly neglected in favor of my huge backlog of mini projects, such as that Skorne Mammoth! His base is to the left, and his completed arm and head are chilling in the back between a Stegadon and some Cold Ones. His other parts are in various stages of painting, and I really should get on that. This post is already long enough, but if I listed my to-do list it would probably triple in size. So much to do 
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Sep 4, 2013 01:41
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I'm wrapping up the test models for the Armoured Clash armies for my brother-in-law and myself, so I decided to start prepping the next model so I can keep on trucking on this thing. So I wash and scrub the I get back in and.... Both heads fit fine (Well the 'open maw' one fits weird because its magnet isn't exactly flush). I think I need a drink...
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Sep 4, 2013 02:06
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My god, that is a pretty loving bird.
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Sep 4, 2013 03:37
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Pacheeco posted:I bought a pot of Ceramite White when they first came out and it was ridiculously super thick. Practically impossible to paint with thick without very heavy thinning. I went to go use it about a week ago and it was so thick my Badger Paint Mixer seized up trying to mix it. I think the base formula they used is just bad. It seems like way too much work to get it to paint consistency for something that is supposed to be a base coat. Personally I'd just take the time to primer white anything that will be white on the final model rather than try and get that Ceramite White working. My Ceramite White is bad too. I bought it at launch and stopped using it. Seriously, the paint pots I've gotten from the 10 year old Space Marine Assault kits are of better quality than the current ceramite white.
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Sep 4, 2013 03:42
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Thank you for the nice bird words. I actually made myself glue it all together and stop painting before I was completely happy with it. I tried out alot of new things on it and used it as a learning experience. It got dunked, scrubbed and repainted a few times. Even though I look at it and see lots of bits I didn't 'finish' painting to the extent I had planned, and some of the quality is uneven across it, it actually feels really good to put it on display and think I don't have to put a brush near it again. I think the standard way most people paint it is really bland and wanted to do something a bit different. I wanted it to actually look cold and magical, rather than just 'blue'. I don't know how well I managed it but it's still very pretty in person. Also think I'm getting the hang of contrast. Now to trick some chump into buying it so I can buy some of those sexy new lizardmans. 
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Sep 4, 2013 04:06
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I'm working on a Forgeworld Warhound right now to go with my World Eaters. It weighs a ton and so far has been an absolute bastard to assemble.
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Sep 4, 2013 04:16
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Future home of Sam and 9 Devil Dogs. Can't wait to clean these up. These bases seriously took like 15-20 minutes. I love using resin bases, painting them is way more satisfying than basing my own poo poo.
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Sep 4, 2013 04:22
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