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Go home eagle, you're drunk. Seriously though, nice colors.
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Sep 4, 2013 07:07
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Crosspostin' First finished mini in months 
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Sep 4, 2013 16:22
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Probably close to 20 hours on this and still not done. Hope to finish the left arm and shield soon and than I have to wait on the head from Chapterhouse.  Unfortunately a phone camera can not pick out the details and all the drat highlights I did. When it's fully done, I will get a real picture done in a lightbox.
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Sep 4, 2013 16:39
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Khorne Flakes posted:Probably close to 20 hours on this and still not done. Hope to finish the left arm and shield soon and than I have to wait on the head from Chapterhouse. 20 hours well spent, it looks awesome! Do you have more units in this color scheme?
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Sep 4, 2013 16:52
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I just bought a Grey Knight squad and a Grey Knight Brotherhood Champion; I've never painted anything besides High Elves and IG, any tips for my GK? I like the models and I wouldn't want to make a mistake painting them.
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Sep 4, 2013 17:51
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radlum posted:I just bought a Grey Knight squad and a Grey Knight Brotherhood Champion; I've never painted anything besides High Elves and IG, any tips for my GK? I like the models and I wouldn't want to make a mistake painting them. Be distinctive. Try out a deep red with brass trim or perhaps a light pink with purple. I'm tired of seeing yawwwn silver GKs.
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Sep 4, 2013 18:28
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Are Reaper models really 25mm or do they scale well with Warhammer's 28mm size? They have some cool looking models I'd like to use in some Mordheim games but if they are noticeably smaller that would be a bummer.
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Sep 4, 2013 23:15
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Direwolf posted:20 hours well spent, it looks awesome! Do you have more units in this color scheme? No, I've found I get burnt out if I repeat the same color over and over for an army. So for my Tau, I have like three or four different patterns I've used to keep painting them fresh for myself and it works in the sense I just say they are in different Caste's. My ground troops are brown and dark red for fire castes, suits are all in green for earth, probably going to use this blue pattern for my heavy vehicles for water caste.
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Sep 4, 2013 23:25
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BadLlama posted:Are Reaper models really 25mm or do they scale well with Warhammer's 28mm size? They have some cool looking models I'd like to use in some Mordheim games but if they are noticeably smaller that would be a bummer. They are pretty variable, to be honest. Most of them would fit reasonably well in terms of size, but their proportions are a lot more realistic, lacking the typically-GW giant hands and heads. For a vague size comparison, this guy is on a 25mm base. 
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Sep 4, 2013 23:33
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thespaceinvader posted:They are pretty variable, to be honest. Yeah, going by their pictures alone they seem to vary quite drastically between the models. I think Orcs and things like that would work well but a lot of the humans seem small. I got myself a warlock to see how they compare and if he turns out to be all tiny then that perfectly fine with me considering hes a tiny mage or what have you. Are there any other fantasy type models around 28mm from other companies that I can look through? Just trying to really add variety to my little band of dudes.
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Sep 4, 2013 23:41
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If I get round to it, I'll post some size comparisons at the weekend if people are interested enough. I don't have masses of GW minis, but I have enough to compare against the Bones. On a related note, someone over in the Reaper thread just posted this link http://www.abarothsworld.com/tips.htm and it is really loving cool, particularly the treasures and trinkets section.
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Sep 4, 2013 23:46
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Any ideas on how to paint (or rather shade) white powered armor (Infinity style, not 40k-style)? Should I shade it towards black, grey, blue, or what?
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Sep 5, 2013 00:20
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Pierzak posted:Any ideas on how to paint (or rather shade) white powered armor (Infinity style, not 40k-style)? Should I shade it towards black, grey, blue, or what? Paint it very light grey, shade with darker grey, and highlight with white.
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Sep 5, 2013 00:24
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I painted my first Space Marine.Babe Magnet posted:I'm going to post this up here just in case I don't get approved in time for me to make the Speed Painting cutoff. If I need to retake any of these pictures (my monitor makes getting good pictures of the time-stamp thing a huge pain in the rear end) let me know and I'll get on that ASAP.
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Sep 5, 2013 10:23
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LingcodKilla posted:Be distinctive. Try out a deep red with brass trim or perhaps a light pink with purple. I'm tired of seeing yawwwn silver GKs. So I'm not just giving my standard hate talk on Codex schemes, here's my latest touched-up Catachan.  Some of these were the first Catachan models I ever painted - feels good to tidy them up a bit.
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Sep 5, 2013 22:24
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For those of you who do sci-fi or modern terrain, do you have any suggestions on where I can get something that passes as lengths of metal scaffolding? I'd need maybe 16-20" worth. I am specifically referring to long lengths like this: http://www.shutterstock.com/pic-26614276/stock-photo-details-of-theatrical-concert-exhibition-stage-lights.html Edit: I am in the US.
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Sep 5, 2013 23:25
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Iris of Ether posted:For those of you who do sci-fi or modern terrain, do you have any suggestions on where I can get something that passes as lengths of metal scaffolding? I'd need maybe 16-20" worth. Evergreen or Plasticard. HobbyTown USA stores have stuff like that.
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Sep 5, 2013 23:53
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Iris of Ether posted:For those of you who do sci-fi or modern terrain, do you have any suggestions on where I can get something that passes as lengths of metal scaffolding? I'd need maybe 16-20" worth. If it was me I'd use square brass tubes.
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Sep 6, 2013 02:46
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Iris of Ether posted:For those of you who do sci-fi or modern terrain, do you have any suggestions on where I can get something that passes as lengths of metal scaffolding? I'd need maybe 16-20" worth. Look for Plastruct ABS Trusses
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Sep 6, 2013 04:02
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BuffaloChicken posted:Agreed! Just swapping the red for another color and adding a neat basing scheme can make your boring silver army something really cool and unique. Instead of red what about navy blue, forest green, or regal purple? For basing how about an ice world, magma, or jungle? After you've decided those two, what color power weapon do you want to compliment the model? There's infinite awesome unique options to make your minis stand out, don't just go with what's in the book or you wind up with a worse-painted version of something everyone's already seen a million times. I am just going to say how amazing the colors, equipment, and mix of non-sexual genders works in this army. And mention how great an old White Dwarf battle report was when Codex: Deathworld Catachans came out. I think it was played against an Eldar army and the way the Deathworld rules worked in a jungle environment to slowly piece apart the enemy army was magnificent; lots of booby traps and brutal ambushes won the day.
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Sep 6, 2013 04:12
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dexefiend posted:Look for Plastruct ABS Trusses Fantastic, thanks! JEEVES420 posted:Evergreen or Plasticard. HobbyTown USA stores have stuff like that. signalnoise posted:If it was me I'd use square brass tubes. Thank you as well. I'll bookmark these.
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Sep 6, 2013 04:29
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Iris of Ether posted:For those of you who do sci-fi or modern terrain, do you have any suggestions on where I can get something that passes as lengths of metal scaffolding? I'd need maybe 16-20" worth. I think some of the pegasus factory terrain sets might have something similar but don't know if there would be enough to suit your needs.
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Sep 6, 2013 04:40
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I'm considering getting a jewelry cleaner for taking paint off my minis, and I was wondering how exactly I would use it? I've heard they get great results, but I'm not entirely clear on how it's supposed to be used. Do I soak the minis in Simple Green before dropping them in the cleaner, or just throw them in dry? Do I fill the cleaner with simple green and water? Straight water? That jewelry cleaning solution? Or something else? Do I need to be careful about any specific kinds of minis (metal, finecast, etc) when using the cleaner on them? Any advice you guys have would be appreciated.
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Sep 6, 2013 05:41
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Hermetic posted:I'm considering getting a jewelry cleaner for taking paint off my minis, and I was wondering how exactly I would use it? I've heard they get great results, but I'm not entirely clear on how it's supposed to be used. Simple green sounds like a plan. It will help break down the paint a bit. Tell us how it works out.
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Sep 6, 2013 06:08
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I use the same solution I clean the model with. No ill effects on resin, plastic, or finecast to date. And I've done tons.
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Sep 6, 2013 06:14
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Heya lads. I got back into the hobby only recently, and had a crack at painting the flesh of an Ogre. Here are my results. Sorry for the lack of a lightbox. My primary goal for this hobby (into the foreseeable future) is to master painting all kinds of flesh.      A few things: -I think the flash is giving a false impression of where the highlights are on the model. I really ought to set up a light box, and take pictures with something other that a mobile phone. -I need a more thorough understanding of where I should be using shades. -I should take more time with my final highlight. It was towards the end of my session, and I just wanted to get it done. -Wounds on the flesh through the use of hobby knives and drills don't really seem to come out good. Pic 1's right shoulder is supposed to be a claw scar; pic twos hole above the left nipple is supposed to be a bullet scar. The method I used was the clinics painting flesh part 1 method. Sometimes, I jumped to part 2. Now, a few questions I have for you guys on painting and how to improve: -When doing highlighted layers, what is a good rule for how many times you should paint over it? I have a problem with this part - I can get the base done properly, but doing highlighted layers and making things blend smoothly seems somewhat above my skill set. What are your rule of thumbs/advice for this? -Where the shoulders meet the torso, I applied green stuff to blend it in. When I added my 1st shade to it, it seems awkward to have a shade in an area directly under the source light. What is your take on this? -What mindset should I get myself in when painting?
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Sep 6, 2013 06:15
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Bavius posted:I use the same solution I clean the model with. No ill effects on resin, plastic, or finecast to date. And I've done tons. So just fill the jewelry cleaner with simple green, dump in minis and turn it on?
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Sep 6, 2013 06:27
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That'll get you some mileage, but I would soak them in simple green first. Rinse them after a day or so in water. Place in fresh simple green in the cleaner. The ultrasonic cleaner will shake away a good portion of the paint. I've had some models go from terrible paint job to completely clean but I've also had some with splotchy bits of primer still stubbornly clinging on.
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Sep 6, 2013 06:37
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Bavius posted:That'll get you some mileage, but I would soak them in simple green first. Rinse them after a day or so in water. Place in fresh simple green in the cleaner. The ultrasonic cleaner will shake away a good portion of the paint. I've had some models go from terrible paint job to completely clean but I've also had some with splotchy bits of primer still stubbornly clinging on. I've actually wondered about stripping minis for awhile. If you spray primer (GW or Army Painter brands) plastic minis, will Simple green take off the primer?
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Sep 6, 2013 06:43
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It will. Also if you are in the UK where Simple Green is unavailable use Dettol ( or supermarkets own brand). Works brilliantly on plastic, resin and metal.
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Sep 6, 2013 06:47
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Daedleh posted:I use these. They're dead good.  LUMBERING TROLL You have MDF and a laser cutter. If you have not already thought about selling some of these kinds of things, make some of these kinds of things to sell! There are places that sell them already but maybe you could think of more unique designs, or just beat them on price! I don't know, you seem to have a good eye for making all your buisness calculations, just don't let this opportunity slip past. Afterall, you only get one shot (at a kickstarter). Being able to mount things on walls or even place sheets into a drawer to keep paints from rolling around would be great. Though there are many different pot designs around, there might be some way to happy-medium across a few lines. On a side note I have thought about making a company that sells eyedroppers built into a cap, a cap that fits on GW pots. That would make a lot of money I think, but I don't know anyone in China. Oh well. Maybe one of you guys do. If so I want half!  edit: why is there no spellcheck at work? WhiteOutMouse fucked around with this message at 12:34 on Sep 6, 2013 |
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Sep 6, 2013 12:20
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will blow your mind.
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WhiteOutMouse posted:
I'd love to see more people using the Miniature Scenery bottle system. One shelf type, accomodates everything up to Tamiya-sized bottles. 
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Sep 6, 2013 12:54
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Yep, its something I have been toying with. Ill show you guys some images once I have worked something out.
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Sep 6, 2013 13:05
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Serotonin posted:It will. Also if you are in the UK where Simple Green is unavailable use Dettol ( or supermarkets own brand). Works brilliantly on plastic, resin and metal. Personally I would say don't use dettol for stripping ever! Sure it works, but it loving stinks, leaves a horrible weird gunk on models and doesn't react well with water (causes the gunk). Fairy power spray is so much easier to work with. It doesn't stink, doesn't leave the horrible residue and reacts with water perfectly fine. In fact I've found a few squirts and about 5% water added to the spray makes it even more effective. (I swear I don't work for Fairy, even though that sounded like an advert...) Just my 2 pence!
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Sep 6, 2013 13:42
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Moola posted:Personally I would say don't use dettol for stripping ever! Sure it works, but it loving stinks, leaves a horrible weird gunk on models and doesn't react well with water (causes the gunk). I used to use Simple green, but recently I swapped to Brake Fluid. couldn't be happier, and any gunk washes off with water easily. (It's also lightning quick, I can strip a mini in under an hour)
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Sep 6, 2013 13:56
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Akay posted:I used to use Simple green, but recently I swapped to Brake Fluid. couldn't be happier, and any gunk washes off with water easily. (It's also lightning quick, I can strip a mini in under an hour) Yeah, but disposing brake fluid is a pain because, unlike Dettol, Power Spray or Simple Green, you can't just tip it down the sink.
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Sep 6, 2013 14:00
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Moola posted:Personally I would say don't use dettol for stripping ever! Sure it works, but it loving stinks, leaves a horrible weird gunk on models and doesn't react well with water (causes the gunk). Where can one buy this mythical substance? I am so ready to eschew the horrible smell and gunk of dettol.
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Sep 6, 2013 14:07
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^ I bought a bottle from Tesco about 6 months ago. I assume they still stock it there. Should be in the cleaning section of any supermarket. Green bottle with a red nozzle.
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Sep 6, 2013 14:13
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It's fairly rare, supermarkets seem to rotate their stock of it. My game group put a call out when somewhere stocks it, and we descend on it and end up buying their entire stock.
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Sep 6, 2013 14:17
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 19:28 |
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After reading about it I checked a bunch of local supermarkets, drugstores, Targets, etc. for Dawn Power Dissolver. No place had it, even the Family Dollar that's listed as the best shot for it. I'll probably end up just ordering some from Amazon.  e: Has anyone used both Dawn Power Dissolver and LA's Totally Awesome? How do they compare?
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Sep 6, 2013 14:29
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