|
The savvy arms look awesome - I love how you can adjust them on the vehicle! It's cool how different the same basic thing can be. It's just an arm with a bushing at each end, then everyone engineers little fixes and tweaks into it until it's pretty much perfect, with super flexy ends, adjustability, better materials, etc.. Unfortunately once they get to that point they are expensive.
|
#
?
Sep 5, 2013 19:39
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 23:08 |
|
|
They are definitely trick. I also had the JJ conversion done on the front axle top control arm mounts. It cost about as much to do just those arms as many complete lift kits.
|
|
#
?
Sep 5, 2013 19:48
|
|
|
slipfish posted:I need to stuff the biggest tires I can get in my JK before winter hits. It's a completely stock '13 Sport (2-door). I'm not going to be doing any trail rides until next summer, and I'll have a lift by then. You can do a 37" tire with no lift if you do the bumper trim and fender trim and extend bumpstops. I think a 4" backspace is the best. I've done 33x12.5 with no lift. The only rubbing was on that air dam thing under the front bumper.
|
|
#
?
Sep 5, 2013 20:00
|
|
|
Stupid question regarding XJ 97+ swaps: did they make 2-doors 97-01? I've never seen one, but that doesn't mean they don't exist.
|
|
#
?
Sep 5, 2013 22:27
|
|
|
Finally got around to having a muffler shop chop off the cat on my 96 Cherokee sport. The thing was dog-poo poo slow and could barely get up hills and was downright dangerously slow on the highway. The insides of the cat looked to be sideways, and unfortunately a big chunk of the cat lodged itself into the muffler. $450 later, this thing actually feels like it has 200hp. The tires on this thing suck are pure garbage. I'm thinking of looking for a new set of wheels and buying some new tires. What would you guys recommend as a cheap tire for an around-town, stock beater Jeep that occasionally sees Washington state forest roads? They need to be decent in the rain. I'm hoping to pick up this type of wheel: http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/rds/pts/4043080469.html Also, has anyone ever refinished/polished those wheels themselves? What's involved?
|
|
#
?
Sep 5, 2013 22:41
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:Stupid question regarding XJ 97+ swaps: did they make 2-doors 97-01? I've never seen one, but that doesn't mean they don't exist. yup. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/just-bought-1999-2-door-cherokee-1031791/
|
|
#
?
Sep 5, 2013 23:42
|
|
|
Neat. I wonder if I can get the newer door panels to fit the older door. Must research. I don't really want to do all the work involved in a complete door swap. goobernoodles: I was going after a set of those wheels, too, but a set of 15x8 Wrangler Gamblers showed up on Craigslist first at a steal-me price. Refinishing those 10-holers shouldn't be too difficult - they are mercifully flat and smooth. First thing to do is remove the rest of the peeling clear-coat with your paint remover of choice, lots of quality time with various grades of sandpaper, then go after it with metal polish. I've polished a set of first-gen RX-7 alloys before, and it wasn't bad at all. I had to do more work on the RX-7 wheels, because they left had a "machine finish" with still fairly pronounced grooves. Re-clear-coating them is optional. It will dull them a little, but then you don't have to keep the polish up.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2013 00:06
|
|
|
They did, but they aren't all that common. 97+ swaps are non trivial, especially if done right. Plan on getting a complete donor that's been rear-ended if you want your life to be easy. Swapping the doors, front fenders+nose etc is easy. Swapping the interior and dash is either easy but very time consuming, or difficult but fast, depending on how much work you want to put into it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2013 01:14
|
|
|
kastein posted:They did, but they aren't all that common. Not going to do a complete swap, if I do anything at all. I would just buy a '97+ if I wanted everything, I think, and probably a 4-door at that ( would work better with the family - the 2-door was pure chance. )
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2013 17:08
|
|
|
I was just wondering what the opinion is on the 04-06 TJ Unlimited, or LJ, is. I am thinking about getting one in the spring, and starting my research now. I think they look a lot better than a short wheelbase Jeep, and I'll be damned if I get a 4-door Jeep. It would be a 4.0 auto, 3-4' lift at max, and mostly used as a weekend warrior.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2013 00:23
|
|
|
MidasAg posted:I was just wondering what the opinion is on the 04-06 TJ Unlimited, or LJ, is. I am thinking about getting one in the spring, and starting my research now. I think they look a lot better than a short wheelbase Jeep, and I'll be damned if I get a 4-door Jeep. It would be a 4.0 auto, 3-4' lift at max, and mostly used as a weekend warrior. The only downside I see with an LJ, and especially a Rubicon LJ, is the difficulty in finding them in decent condition for less than stupid money.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2013 00:52
|
|
|
Kastivich posted:The only downside I see with an LJ, and especially a Rubicon LJ, is the difficulty in finding them in decent condition for less than stupid money. That's kind of what I have been running into. Around here in the Seattle area, LJs are pushing $17k on the low end, up to $30k for a Rubicon edition. And most of them have been molested in some way.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2013 00:58
|
|
|
Wranglers go for stupid high prices in the summer.
|
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2013 05:41
|
|
|
Veins McGee posted:Wranglers go for stupid high prices in the summer. I'm waiting a few more weeks before I resume my search. I'm also trying to figure out somewhere besides Craigslist to get leads for wranglers. Too many people trying to sell rusted out frames for $1k over the book value.
|
|
#
?
Sep 7, 2013 22:44
|
|
|
Chef Bromden posted:I'm waiting a few more weeks before I resume my search. I'm also trying to figure out somewhere besides Craigslist to get leads for wranglers. Too many people trying to sell rusted out frames for $1k over the book value. Jeep Forum and Wrangler Forum are good places to search, but it doesn't tend to be cheap because people know what they have there.
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2013 03:58
|
|
|
goobernoodles posted:Finally got around to having a muffler shop chop off the cat on my 96 Cherokee sport. The thing was dog-poo poo slow and could barely get up hills and was downright dangerously slow on the highway. The insides of the cat looked to be sideways, and unfortunately a big chunk of the cat lodged itself into the muffler. $450 later, this thing actually feels like it has 200hp. Regarding tires, I have (and like) the General Grabber AT tires on my jeep. I'd also look at their HTS models (http://www.generaltire.com/tires/light-truck-crossover-suv/grabber-hts).
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2013 13:42
|
|
|
I installed the Teraflex oil pan skid today. I realized that they left out a bolt on the bell-housing when they put in my new motor  
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2013 22:07
|
|
|
 It's almost 4x4 time! I've been driving around with a transfer case and the old 2wd front axle for about a month. It started making an alarming clunk in the front end so I decided to just go ahead and put in the D30 I bought a while ago along with new steering giblets and control arm bushings. Turns out a PO had replaced the track bar and not used a cotter pin. The castle nut was a few turns loose and the taper had come loose 
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2013 23:39
|
|
|
I ordered a solid diff cover for the rear d44, and the rancho slide/skid plate for the front d30. I've wanted one of the Rancho skids since I first got my jeep. It looks rad and I think it'll save my diff. Mostly it looks rad.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 00:36
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:I ordered a solid diff cover for the rear d44, and the rancho slide/skid plate for the front d30. I've wanted one of the Rancho skids since I first got my jeep. It looks rad and I think it'll save my diff. Mostly it looks rad. It's a bummer that it reduces your clearance by what looks like two inches, making it more likely you'll get hung up. Also, I'm pretty sure that the coarse thread bolts around the bottom of the bellhousing cover don't do much to hold your transmission on; it's mostly the two bolts that go directly to the block and the top two E12 rear end in a top hat inverted Torx bolts.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 01:35
|
|
|
Yeah, any bolt that doesn't go into the block is just there to keep that little sheetmetal bellhousing cover plate on. No real worries there. I would take a ruffstuff diff cover over one of those skids any day, but it does look cool. I've come down REALLY HARD on both my front and rear diff castings with no real damage, the only one to really worry about is the zj aluminum rear 44, those can be damaged by rocks.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 01:53
|
|
|
kastein posted:Yeah, any bolt that doesn't go into the block is just there to keep that little sheetmetal bellhousing cover plate on. No real worries there. And harsh words.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 02:00
|
|
|
Ozmiander posted:And harsh words.  Don't know what Jeep was thinking with that.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 02:09
|
|
|
kastein posted:
There are places that aluminium parts don't belong. I'm dreading checking on the brake shoes in the Niva. Imagine what would happen to an aluminum drum if the friction material is gone. I have to ask, along with the aluminium diff housings what were the axle tubes made of? And how were they attached?
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 02:26
|
|
|
kastein posted:Yeah, any bolt that doesn't go into the block is just there to keep that little sheetmetal bellhousing cover plate on. No real worries there. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 02:39
|
|
|
I will try to remember to look them up at work tomorrow.General_Failure posted:There are places that aluminium parts don't belong. I'm dreading checking on the brake shoes in the Niva. Imagine what would happen to an aluminum drum if the friction material is gone. Steel. They are held together with magic, hopes, dreams, and hammered/pressed in plugs. Mostly with hopes and dreams. It works out about as well as you would think, but not as badly as a ford 8.8 that hasn't had the tubes welded to the casting (ford used the same  hammered in plug idea, even though their tubes and housings are both iron/steel. Bravo, ford.)
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 02:45
|
|
|
kastein posted:I will try to remember to look them up at work tomorrow. edit: and it's still used for the same purpose on 2.4l-equipped 200s 
OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Sep 9, 2013 |
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 02:59
|
|
|
Just blew either the steel brake line that runs to the rear, or the rubber line that runs from the body to the diff. Decided its be a good idea to do a little power brake chirp and bam! Pedal to the floor, I had enough front brake to limp 5 miles to home. At least it didn't go doing 70 down the mountain 30 miles from home. I really hope it's the rubber line. Time to find my line wrenches.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 03:08
|
|
|
fps_bill posted:Just blew either the steel brake line that runs to the rear, or the rubber line that runs from the body to the diff. Decided its be a good idea to do a little power brake chirp and bam! Pedal to the floor, I had enough front brake to limp 5 miles to home. At least it didn't go doing 70 down the mountain 30 miles from home. Pretty much every xj I know has blown that rear steel line. Its not hard to replace as its mostly a straight run.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 03:15
|
|
|
Hope it is the steel line, because if it is the rubber line, the steel line will twist off when you try and unscrew it from the rubber one. Actually, all 3 will. So if it is the rubber line buy the materials to do the steel line on the unibody and both on the axle. Don't ask how I know this  at least I lived 3 blocks from autozone when that happened.Oh, it is 3/8-24 regular double invert flares, 3/16 line, the fitting at the prop valve is a funky one so reuse that nut if you can. Don't buy m10 threaded premade hardlines, they will thread in 1 turn and then stop, leaving you wondering wtf is wrong till you notice the metric tag on the drat line. PUT THE loving NUT ON THE LINE BEFORE YOU FLARE IT And put it on facing the right way! And don't bend the line with the nut too far down, it won't go around corners! ... and don't ask how many times I've done all of those things wrong
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 03:27
|
|
|
yea.......I'm gonna sound like a total noob here but I don't know how to flare brake lines. So it's standard line not that stupid bubble flared stuff? e: the last time I had to replace a hard line was on a diesel jetta my brother had at the time. I just took a length of paracord and figured out how long I needed. We went and got one, I bent it up by hand and put it on. fps_bill fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Sep 9, 2013 |
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 03:29
|
|
|
fps_bill posted:yea.......I'm gonna sound like a total noob here but I don't know how to flare brake lines. So it's standard line not that stupid bubble flared stuff? Yeah. Regular double flares throughout. All 3/16 line, all 3/8 flare nuts except the few goofy ones at the prop valve and m/c. Some of the m/c fittings may be metric or weird flare, I forget, but that's not relevant here. There is one goofy bubble flare or something about 8 inches below the prop valve on the rear chassis line. You can get rid of it, just go straight to the valve block. It is there so they could use the same rear line on abs and non abs vehicles and just have a different short adapter line depending on whether it was abs equipped or not.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 03:38
|
|
|
Anyone know of a suitable replacement for the '84-'96 XJ/MJ (and probably others) fuel tank rollover valve? I have two new Mopar grommets but only one valve can be found in the garage. I can order them for ~$15 shipped online, but haven't found anything suitable that NAPA/Advance/etc might have on-hand...
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 03:41
|
|
|
What headlight upgrades are the best? I'm generally thinking a wiring loom upgrade, H4 housings, and some decent bulbs, but I'm pretty apprehensive about the products I'm seeing out there. A couple of jeep forums recommend this harness: http://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4G Which has a couple bad reviews, but doesn't seem totally scary. I'm willing to spend more if the quality is worth it. I'm not finding anything in terms of decent brand name housings, and I'll probably just throw sylvania bulbs in unless someone has a better idea. 2000 XJ, for what it's worth.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 07:57
|
|
|
That Putco harness is probably fine, but I sprung for an IPF harness just for peace of mind (and because I'm too lazy to make my own). I don't remember if I went with Hella or Cibie lamps, but that setup with a pair of decent Narvo bulbs made an absolutely massive difference in output and beam for maybe $200 total. Best money I've put into my '01 XJ.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 12:17
|
|
|
Cibie, Hella, IPF and AutoPal housings are all fine with the Putco harness. I put mine in two years ago with Hella housings and it's performed great. I think some batches had bad Chinese relays or something, but I haven't heard too many complaints considering how many people have ordered that thing and installed it. You'll have to pull your factory fog light relay, otherwise you can't toggle from high to low beams after you've flicked them to high; you have to kill all the lights and then start at low again.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 12:35
|
|
|
Philip J Fry posted:Cibie, Hella, IPF and AutoPal housings are all fine with the Putco harness. I put mine in two years ago with Hella housings and it's performed great. I think some batches had bad Chinese relays or something, but I haven't heard too many complaints considering how many people have ordered that thing and installed it. You'll have to pull your factory fog light relay, otherwise you can't toggle from high to low beams after you've flicked them to high; you have to kill all the lights and then start at low again.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 16:39
|
|
|
Krakkles posted:Killer - ordered a set. Is the fog light relay thing an issue if I didn't have factory fogs? If you didn't have factory fogs, you'll be fine. I have Autopal h4 Ecode housings and the putco harness. No complaints, it was probably one of the best "bang for the buck" upgrade I've done to my jeep. Just stay away from the "crystal" h4 headlights, they're pure junk and just scatter light everywhere.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 19:32
|
|
|
Veeb0rg posted:If you didn't have factory fogs, you'll be fine. I have Autopal h4 Ecode housings and the putco harness. No complaints, it was probably one of the best "bang for the buck" upgrade I've done to my jeep. Just stay away from the "crystal" h4 headlights, they're pure junk and just scatter light everywhere. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 19:57
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 23:08 |
|
|
JK headlights are loving terrible.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 21:12
|
|
