|
Five or six hose clamps would have been the way to go if he wanted to make a lasting repair.
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2013 02:56
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 03:54 |
|
|
I wonder if he thought it would hold until he could get it welded?
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2013 04:16
|
|
|
I've seen a set of leafs held together with tack welded coathanger wire. Dumb knows no limits.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2013 04:22
|
|
|
I used 30-yards of button & carpet thread to hold a motor mount together on a 383 driving my 1965 Plymouth Fury. It held for almost a year. Here's a '65 Bonneville fixer-upper: 
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2013 04:44
|
|
|
I held my motor up in my truck using 60-100 feet of home depot poly rope. The kind that has "288lb limit" in very small print in one place, and otherwise says it's for clotheslines only. Desperate times, desperate measures. Motor mount broke off the block (severe deathwobble, one block boss cracked off, two bolts sheared, and out it came) so I jacked it up by the oil pan, then made a hammock/sling for the engine out of as much rope as I could get passed back and forth between the frame side mounts and lowered the engine onto it. Then I drove it (very gingerly) 15 miles home, 10 miles to a friend's house to pick up the new motor the next morning, and 10 miles home. The exhaust had melted through 75% of the rope by then.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2013 15:01
|
|
|
the bsd boys posted:You mean zap straps. Those go on the other side.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2013 17:03
|
|
|
General_Failure posted:Ahahaha holy poo poo. Nothing like trying to bodge a serious bit of steel with the weakest and shittiest tape ever devised. Why not just drill through all the leafs, put a big grade 8 bolt through with big washers? I mean, I know its stupid and compromises the springs, but c'mon. Put some effort in your redneck repairs.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2013 18:06
|
|
|
Ratchet straps would be an accepted redneck fix duct tape is pure lazy
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2013 19:14
|
|
|
tater_salad posted:Ratchet straps would be an accepted redneck fix duct tape is pure lazy
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2013 19:39
|
|
|
Humbug Scoolbus posted:I've seen a set of leafs held together with tack welded coathanger wire. Dumb knows no limits. A coat hanger makes a serviceable filler rod in a pinch 
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2013 20:12
|
|
|
kastein posted:Motor mount broke off the block (severe deathwobble, one block boss cracked off, two bolts sheared, and out it came) As someone with little knowledge of engine block repair, would that be remotely fixable by a skilled welder, or is it not worth it?u
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2013 20:51
|
|
|
atomicthumbs posted:As someone with little knowledge of engine block repair, would that be remotely fixable by a skilled welder, or is it not worth it?u Probably not, welding onto cast metal is usually a bitch, and that area would probably just break again without careful heat treatment.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2013 21:00
|
|
|
EightBit posted:Probably not, welding onto cast metal is usually a bitch, and that area would probably just break again without careful heat treatment. This. The only way I could see it being attempted is if the block is something rare, like a side-oiler FE, an original-to-a-specific-chassis engine for a restoration, or something.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2013 21:14
|
|
|
MadScientistWorking posted:Ehhhh.... I think some of the more redneck fixes of redneck fixes involved fixing a fender with duct tape, a map, and a couple of clamps. Hey, it worked for the moon rover, so why not here?
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2013 03:03
|
|
|
EightBit posted:Probably not, welding onto cast metal is usually a bitch, and that area would probably just break again without careful heat treatment. Forgive my ignorance of welding, but in a case like this, wouldn't you be better off brazing instead of welding?
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2013 03:56
|
|
|
CommieGIR posted:Why not just drill through all the leafs, put a big grade 8 bolt through with big washers? You've never tried drilling through spring steel, have you? Particularly freehand with a hand drill on springs still mounted to the truck you're trying to get off the trail. It's a bad enough process with proper equipment on a drill press, it's nearly impossible laying on your back in the dirt.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2013 04:10
|
|
|
murphle posted:You've never tried drilling through spring steel, have you? Particularly freehand with a hand drill on springs still mounted to the truck you're trying to get off the trail. It's a bad enough process with proper equipment on a drill press, it's nearly impossible laying on your back in the dirt. Nearly impossible? I couldn't even imagine it. You'd be in deeper for drill bits than a new leaf.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2013 04:11
|
|
|
murphle posted:You've never tried drilling through spring steel, have you? Particularly freehand with a hand drill on springs still mounted to the truck you're trying to get off the trail. It's a bad enough process with proper equipment on a drill press, it's nearly impossible laying on your back in the dirt. Not redneck enough. Use a powder nailer to make that hole.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2013 04:23
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:Not redneck enough. Use a powder nailer to make that hole. better yet mount the drill to a log and then lower the truck onto the drill, I call it a truckpress
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2013 08:57
|
|
|
A true redneck would (try to) shoot a hole in it with his ar15
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2013 12:05
|
|
|
C-Clamps or Vice Grips are the real solution.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2013 12:38
|
|
|
murphle posted:You've never tried drilling through spring steel, have you? Particularly freehand with a hand drill on springs still mounted to the truck you're trying to get off the trail. It's a bad enough process with proper equipment on a drill press, it's nearly impossible laying on your back in the dirt. atomicthumbs posted:As someone with little knowledge of engine block repair, would that be remotely fixable by a skilled welder, or is it not worth it?u Maybe. You'd want high nickel (probably Ni55 or Ni99) welding rod, a LOT of preheat (so prepare to drop the engine and strip the block bare, then hot tank it and put a rosebud on it) and a pile of sand or a lot of welding blankets to keep it cooling down slowly, probably with some peening to relieve stress. Just plain not worth it for a motor I can buy for $100 after choosing from 15 donors at the local you-pull. And... MrChips posted:Forgive my ignorance of welding, but in a case like this, wouldn't you be better off brazing instead of welding? ... is correct. Brazing cast iron is a lot easier than welding it. Makes a pretty nice strong repair, too, I've seen videos of pros doing repairs on the bearing seats in cast iron steering knuckles for extremely heavy road maintenance/sand/plow trucks by grinding out the dirty lovely metal, filling everything with braze till it's past where it needs to be, then remachining the part to original dimensions. For example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADTIZ2YE08A This is part 1 of a 5-6 part series, I strongly recommend watching them all, it's amazing metalwork. That kind of thing is only logical if it's a rare/old/hard to find/expensive part however, if the same thing happened to me I have literally 5 spare steering knuckles that I've been too lazy to scrap and I can buy one of another 30-40 sitting at the yard for $10 each if all mine are junk. Cast iron is one of those things you could probably oxy/ace weld if you were a 60 year welding veteran with black magic grade skills, a very good stick welder can do it, don't even think about it with any wirefeed process. Especially once it's been soaked with coolant and oil for two decades. Cast aluminum blocks? probably a lot easier, I haven't tried doing one but I bet it'd be possible especially if you got the oil/coolant out of the pores somehow. I don't know how cast aluminum has pores, but people I trust insist that it's more annoying to weld even after surface cleaning it, so it must.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2013 15:05
|
|
|
kastein posted:... is correct. Brazing cast iron is a lot easier than welding it. Makes a pretty nice strong repair, too, I've seen videos of pros doing repairs on the bearing seats in cast iron steering knuckles for extremely heavy road maintenance/sand/plow trucks by grinding out the dirty lovely metal, filling everything with braze till it's past where it needs to be, then remachining the part to original dimensions. For example: Seems like that would've been way easier, better and faster to do by mounting it to a indexing head, put it in the bridgeport, boring the surfaces which are then fairly true. burr it, fill with braze, mount to same setup to re-machine leaving one side undersize then line bore it to get it parallel.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2013 15:22
|
|
|
We've used these guys at work in the past. They have some really amazing repair examples on their website. http://www.locknstitch.com/RepairExamples.htm They have special threaded bolts with heads that shear off and they just drill and tap and screw them in repeatedly. It's incredible.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2013 23:30
|
|
|
Did you know the floorpan is not designed to support the weight of the vehicle?
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2013 02:51
|
|
|
This is the first picture in this thread where Ive burst out laughing for over 5 seconds Im impressed
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2013 03:26
|
|
|
Holy poo poo that's really bright and expensive
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2013 03:42
|
|
|
That's what I call laying frame.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2013 03:47
|
|
|
Is the floorpan made of tupperware? Granted, no floorpan will stand up to that sort of abuse, but there doesn't look to be any plastic deformation - it's just gone straight to fracture. What's truly mind-boggling is that the jack isn't still under the car - you'd think that it'd break when you put it down. e: If it's a hellaflush abomination, now taking wagers that he claims on the warranty, like the Honda Jazz guy did (tried to?)
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2013 03:48
|
|
|
I think the fractured white/black stuff you're seeing is the sound deadening insulation, the grey metal of the floor pan ripped clean like a pop can though. I had a buddy pop a hole in his floor pan with jack stands almost 10 years back, wasn't as bad as above, but he did it a bit more creatively. He had the back of his '03 RSX jacked up and was working on installing an exhaust. I walked up and wanted to hear how it sounded with the muffler off, so he got in the car and keyed the ignition... with the car still in gear. The car lurched backwards and tipped the stands over, dropping the car about a foot to the ground and onto the feet of the tipped over stands. If someone had been under there, they'd have been crushed for sure. This was the same guy who painted his valve cover with something like red house paint after doing no masking work, and lost 2 of the 6 bolts that held it down in the process. The car was barely over a year old then, I can't imagine how it looks now.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2013 05:35
|
|
|
What kind of shitheap has a floorpan that weak? Unless he managed to unload the jack really fast or something I just can't see how that isn't the mfr cutting corners.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2013 11:45
|
|
|
Das Volk posted:What kind of shitheap has a floorpan that weak? Unless he managed to unload the jack really fast or something I just can't see how that isn't the mfr cutting corners. When you have the weight of the car pressing on a tiny spot like the top of a jack-stand under a thin surface like a floorboard, something's gonna give. And it ain't gonna be the jack-stand.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2013 12:55
|
|
|
He couldve at least put wood between the car and the stand, that would have hopefully avoided the latter.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2013 18:29
|
|
|
Preoptopus posted:He couldve at least put wood between the car and the stand, that would have hopefully avoided the latter. Or use the frame rail like any sane person...
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2013 18:46
|
|
|
I did that a couple years ago to my 2005 Focus hatchback when I was changing a motor mount. Didn't pop or penetrate the floorpan but it definitely deformed into a football-shaped lump that I later pounded out. I had the jack placed correctly but the parking lot had a slight slope and the weight of the car pushed the feet of the jack about an inch into the lovely soft asphalt, causing it to slip to the side and up into the driver side footwell. Definitely scared the poo poo out of me as I was placing the other jack to support the engine.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2013 19:05
|
|
|
I watched a jackstand go through the floor exactly like that with an 06 Evo 9.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2013 20:33
|
|
|
To me, that looks like something that would have happened if the car slipped off the jackstand and punched through.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2013 20:44
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:I watched a jackstand go through the floor exactly like that with an 06 Evo 9. When your car is 40% rust, things like that happen 
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2013 21:17
|
|
|
Arizona. Less than 10k on the car.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2013 22:19
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 03:54 |
|
|
What happens with the car, legally, in that kind of situation? Isn't it basically totalled at that point since the floor-pan is a major component of the unibody?
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2013 22:22
|
|
