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stubblyhead posted:What was your profit on the plane if you don't mind my asking? Not much, a little over $12, but it offsets the cost of the calipers I bought.
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Sep 17, 2013 17:13
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WD40 is mostly stoddard solvent as I recall. Stoddard solvent = close to turpentine. It's basically a thin low sulfur mineral oil though, which is what's important.
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Sep 17, 2013 18:16
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I went to buy this... and also came home with this...  A Langdon (I think) miter box with Disston & Sons saw. Plus a 6" dado blade, some bar clamps and misc stuff. All for ...  +++Edit: According to the following it is actually a Goodell 1306 miter box. https://sites.google.com/site/langdonmitreboxes/home/gallery/goodell/all-steel-1306 They belonged to a man name Walter who recently passed and his son said that Walter would get a kick out of knowing the stuff went to someone who will use it. Many thanks to them both. The band saw was sold by Montgomery Ward but I have no idea of it's age, 1958 or later. The front is plastic and the table is aluminum. The saw spins like a top, Walter took good care of his tools. wormil fucked around with this message at 03:39 on Sep 22, 2013 |
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Sep 22, 2013 03:22
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My HF impact screwdriver and 5lb sledge saved my rear end yesterday. It's my new favorite tool. http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html
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Sep 22, 2013 16:20
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For a soldering station, will any wet sponge work or do you need a specific kind of sponge for it?
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Sep 23, 2013 15:03
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Francodipshit posted:For a soldering station, will any wet sponge work or do you need a specific kind of sponge for it? Get a copper scouring pad if you can find one. It will last longer and work better than a wet sponge, and you don't have to bother with keeping it wet.
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Sep 23, 2013 17:18
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I've read those get all lovely after a while and are more expensive than cutting a yellow kitchen sponge in half that you buy for almost a dollar each. But I do hear they're really effective for the little while they're in good condition.
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Sep 23, 2013 17:57
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Francodipshit posted:I've read those get all lovely after a while and are more expensive than cutting a yellow kitchen sponge in half that you buy for almost a dollar each. But I do hear they're really effective for the little while they're in good condition. Depending how heavy you are on the solder, a copper scouring pad can last quite a while.
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Sep 23, 2013 20:30
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I've been using the same one for more than 5 years.
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Sep 24, 2013 02:17
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I just use regular yellow sponges, 2/$1 at the dollar store, cut into quarters. Yeah you have to keep them wet, but after 15 or 20 minutes of hard soldering I need to get up and walk around anyway. Never had any problems.
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Sep 24, 2013 05:29
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Anybody have a Spindle sander? Do you use it enough to justify it? I found one of the JET cabinet spindle sanders on craigslist for $350 when it normally retails for around $1200 new plus it has a mobile base. Seems like a pretty good deal. Thoughts?
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Sep 24, 2013 12:50
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ShadowStalker posted:Anybody have a Spindle sander? Do you use it enough to justify it? I found one of the JET cabinet spindle sanders on craigslist for $350 when it normally retails for around $1200 new plus it has a mobile base. Seems like a pretty good deal. Thoughts? I have a HF spindle sander. I get quite a bit of use out of it, but it just depends on what you do. Paid $90.
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Sep 24, 2013 14:01
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ShadowStalker posted:Anybody have a Spindle sander? Do you use it enough to justify it? I found one of the JET cabinet spindle sanders on craigslist for $350 when it normally retails for around $1200 new plus it has a mobile base. Seems like a pretty good deal. Thoughts? I just use my drill press or a drum mounted to the lathe but I use them quite a bit. They are indispensable for sanding curves. You can also rig up a mini thickness sander for small parts.
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Sep 24, 2013 15:57
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If you are doing enough projects where a spindle sander would be a time saver it's worth it to make an investment in one. Using a drum in a drill press can side load the bearings and potentially screw them up. I know a lot of guitar builders use the Rigid one Home Depot sells as a way to clean up the sides after routing with a pattern.
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Sep 25, 2013 16:30
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Spindle sanders are just fantastic for cleaning up any part of anything that isn't a flat plane, ie most of what you'll ever work on.
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Sep 25, 2013 17:25
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Thumposaurus posted:If you are doing enough projects where a spindle sander would be a time saver it's worth it to make an investment in one. Using a drum in a drill press can side load the bearings and potentially screw them up. I know a lot of guitar builders use the Rigid one Home Depot sells as a way to clean up the sides after routing with a pattern. A design like this one puts less sideload on the bearings since it essentially adds a lower bearing 
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Sep 25, 2013 18:10
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Better, but it's still putting side-pressure on your drill press bearings, just a little more even.
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Sep 25, 2013 19:33
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If I were to purchase one all over again I would go with the Rigid. Everyone loves them, and they do a lot more than a normal spindle sander.
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Sep 25, 2013 20:49
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You can add a bottom radial bearing to a DP drum sander fairly easily. Shopnotes (of course) has a pretty nice design for one.
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Sep 25, 2013 21:49
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mds2 posted:If I were to purchase one all over again I would go with the Rigid. Everyone loves them, and they do a lot more than a normal spindle sander. You wouldn't go with 2 separate pieces? I was looking at getting the Jet JOVS-10 http://www.jettools.com/us/en/p/jovs-10-floor-model-oscillating-spindle-sander-1hp-1ph-115v/708411 And then picking up a combination Belt/Disc Sander
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Sep 25, 2013 21:53
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Went to an auction last Saturday. There was only a couple items that I was interested in. One being a pair of 20 V Lithium Ion Black and Decker Drills. Well, long story short, I was out of there within 15 minutes with my drill, battery and charger for much less than retail.
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Sep 29, 2013 22:04
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mds2 posted:If I were to purchase one all over again I would go with the Rigid. Everyone loves them, and they do a lot more than a normal spindle sander. I have the Rigid and I'd buy it again in a heartbeat. It's a great machine. I like being able to switch from vertical belt or spindle depending on the project. $200 when I bought it a couple years ago.
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Sep 30, 2013 01:15
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I've been poking around CL for a fence and I found this saw: http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/tls/4098967641.html Are all Biesemeyer fences created equal? I tried to get one NIB last week for $200 but the guy sold it out from under me. Only other one listed wants $350.
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Oct 1, 2013 19:56
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Daggerpants posted:I've been poking around CL for a fence and I found this saw: http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/tls/4098967641.html Yeah, it's like buying a Bies, looks like a 50" at that, and getting a free tablesaw. I think that is one of the Deltas w/ universal motor though, like a prom dress on a pig. If I were fence shopping I'd be all over it. My :?: ... nm, changed my mind; it would have been penny wise and pound foolish. wormil fucked around with this message at 04:32 on Oct 2, 2013 |
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Oct 1, 2013 20:52
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If anyone's in need of a big combination square, Brown and Sharpe 24" squares are $60 on Amazon right now which is pretty great deal.
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Oct 3, 2013 16:20
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powderific posted:If anyone's in need of a big combination square, Brown and Sharpe 24" squares are $60 on Amazon right now which is pretty great deal. Showing @ $280 for me. In crazy deal news, I bought a 1x8x5-1/2 in. bolt for $1.00 shipped. Might not sound like a good deal unless you've shopped bolts lately.
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Oct 3, 2013 21:04
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wormil posted:Showing @ $280 for me. $60 for me: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...&pf_rd_i=507846 If that's the one being talked about. vvvv What are the odds...replying to a 2 hour old post within 2 minutes of each other. Squibbles fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Oct 3, 2013 |
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Oct 3, 2013 23:16
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wormil posted:Showing @ $280 for me. Try this one: http://amzn.com/B0002FTYK0 edit: ^ dammit, well, my link is shorter, nyah
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Oct 3, 2013 23:18
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Alright, I am confused. I get that things cost more than the sum if their parts, but in what way is even 60 dollars a good price for that? I am asking honestly, what am I missing?
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Oct 4, 2013 16:45
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Slugworth posted:Alright, I am confused. I get that things cost more than the sum if their parts, but in what way is even 60 dollars a good price for that? I am asking honestly, what am I missing? As a person who is actually currently in the market for a combination square, the answer to your question is accuracy. There is a huge difference between something that "looks square" and something that is totally square, so that you can make repeating cut after cur after cut and not have small errors multiply over and over. For example, if you were cutting metal squares to lay flat on a surface, like tiling a floor. If a particular square you cut is a tiny fraction off square, no big deal right? But when your measuring tool isn't perfectly square, you make the same mistake over and over and your tiny error gets multiplied by 10 or 100 or 10000, and all of a sudden you've got a bunch of tiles that even though they are tightly butted together, are clearly not straight even to the naked eye. And when you're machining or making tight-fitting parts, your errors get much more relevant even faster. A piston in a gas engine, for example, has to be the exact right size and exaclty square, or it will rub the sides and overheat if too big, or it'll let the explosion gases past it, leading to a huge loss of power and probably overheating and I don't even know what else. So you're exactly right in that that seems like a huge amount of money for something you can buy one that looks just like it for $5 from Harbor Freight. The difference is the expensive one is correct to a tolerance high enough that you'll never run into it not being square, and the cheap one can get you into trouble immediately.
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Oct 4, 2013 17:59
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I wish I had invested in a good square a long time ago. Once I got one I found that all my saws were off by about .5 degrees and it was driving me nuts trying to get a decent cut.
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Oct 5, 2013 00:26
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Uncle Enzo posted:As a person who is actually currently in the market for a combination square, the answer to your question is accuracy. There is a huge difference between something that "looks square" and something that is totally square, so that you can make repeating cut after cur after cut and not have small errors multiply over and over. For example, if you were cutting metal squares to lay flat on a surface, like tiling a floor. If a particular square you cut is a tiny fraction off square, no big deal right? But when your measuring tool isn't perfectly square, you make the same mistake over and over and your tiny error gets multiplied by 10 or 100 or 10000, and all of a sudden you've got a bunch of tiles that even though they are tightly butted together, are clearly not straight even to the naked eye. How to check if a square is square and how to correct it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxrCZd7r6qE
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Oct 5, 2013 04:02
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Slugworth posted:Alright, I am confused. I get that things cost more than the sum if their parts, but in what way is even 60 dollars a good price for that? I am asking honestly, what am I missing? This one will really bake your noodle then: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BXZUNC/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
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Oct 5, 2013 05:22
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You can buy used machinist squares for like $20 on ebay. I bought an irwin square at home depot for like $8 and it's square to within .005" over 6". More accurate than anything you'll be cutting by hand.
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Oct 5, 2013 08:26
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Speaking of squares, I forgot to show you guys the present I bought myself earlier in the year
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Oct 5, 2013 14:24
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attn: bay areans http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/tls/4105015792.html south bend lathe for sale, we dont see these here too often.
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Oct 6, 2013 03:31
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I live in a duplex where getting new power run to the garage for tools isn't an option so I'm trying to figure out the best way to get dust collection and run a saw of any kind. My shop vac and circular saw together blow the fuse every time (although I can actually start both and saw a little bit before it blows), while my router on medium speed with the shop vac seems to be OK (haven't tried it on higher speed/more difficult material), and shop vac with little orbital sander is totally fine. The shop vac has an 11 amp motor, the circular saw 15 amp, the router 12 amp, and the sander is something really small like 3 amps. Adding to the complication, the whole garage seems to be wired up to the neighboring duplex's panel so I don't want to experiment too much and I'm not even sure what the circuit is rated for. For now I've been using a cordless saw, but it sprays half of its dust past the blade guard into my face. The shop vac cuts it down, but not anywhere near enough. I've been eyeing the Festool track saws for quite a while now both because I like the idea of a track saw and because they're supposed to do fantastic with dust collection. My main concern is that I'll get it and still wind up blowing breakers. The TS55 has a 10 amp motor so I was thinking that it, possibly combined with a lower powered dust extractor/something with a variable speed motor, would have low enough draw to avoid overloading the circuit. Any suggestions?
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Oct 7, 2013 04:44
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Extension cord from the house, or a portable generator.
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Oct 7, 2013 11:21
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Wouldn't I need a pretty beefy generator to run power tools? I don't want something super crazy loud but not super crazy loud but powerful seems to be hella expensive.
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Oct 7, 2013 15:19
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powderific posted:Wouldn't I need a pretty beefy generator to run power tools? I don't want something super crazy loud but not super crazy loud but powerful seems to be hella expensive. A decent generator, nothing too crazy though. Something in the $400 dollar range should easily provide the power you need.
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Oct 7, 2013 16:16
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