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Argenteus posted:Picked up this box from Harbor Freight thanks to this thread. One of us...one of us...
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Dec 16, 2013 07:36
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Weinertron posted:Are corded electric impact wrenches good enough to mostly negate the need for air tools? I'm never planning to paint in my garage, and a decent oiled air compressor suitable for running impact wrenches sure ain't cheap. I'm just looking for something to break bolts loose before I go straight to the breaker bar. I've survived long enough without air tools for the most part. The only issues is that the electric impact is huge, heavy, and bulky so it won't fit in a lot of places without being creative with extensions and even then sometimes it's just not going to happen. Mine is an 8.5A model rated at 350ft-lbs max torque which has been enough to take off quite a few stubborn bolts and nuts, I've rarely had to go to a friends garage with shop air. Not a bad investment if you want the convenience of a decent impact, just keep in mind what limitations it has and you should be set.
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Dec 16, 2013 17:58
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Cakefool posted:
That's the pair I have - had them a couple of years now, standing up to the test of time well.
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Dec 16, 2013 18:27
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You know what's great? Having to remove a (central heating)radiator and being able to lay my hands on every tool I'll need in a single trip in about 30 seconds. You know what's bad? Realizing when they're put together my screwdriver collection looks like it was stolen from a meth addict. Any recommendations? E: also any suggestions on how to organise 1 billion assorted driver bits?
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Dec 16, 2013 22:45
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Cakefool posted:E: also any suggestions on how to organise 1 billion assorted driver bits? A magnet.
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Dec 17, 2013 00:46
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Has anybody experimented with reloading cordless tool battery packs? I've got a fairly decent Panasonic drill with two smoked nicads and am thinking of buying a bunch of eBay cells; it's while-watching-TV work for me so labor's not an issue, and the cost would be less than half of new packs. They appear to be simple, 10-cell sub-C series wired, no chips or anything.
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Dec 17, 2013 00:49
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Cakefool posted:E: also any suggestions on how to organise 1 billion assorted driver bits? What about using some of the plastic bullet holders that come in a box of handgun bullets? I'm not sure how the sizing would work but there might be a casing that is similar to a screwdriver bit.
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Dec 17, 2013 00:57
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I have Milwaukee M18 Redlithium batteries, and I'm looking to buy an "M18 FUEL" bare tool, but I notice the packs come with Redlithium 4.0 batteries. As far as I can tell, they're just a longer lasting battery at 4 amp-hours compared to my battery's 3 amp-hours. Does anyone have first-hand experience that it will work? I'm thinking it should but I'm nervous. I got an x-mas gift card that I think I'll use on this: http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2763-22
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Dec 17, 2013 02:06
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Astonishing Wang posted:What about using some of the plastic bullet holders that come in a box of handgun bullets? I'm not sure how the sizing would work but there might be a casing that is similar to a screwdriver bit. They're all too large. They are also too lovely and/or deep to make it easy to get to bits. You might be able to use "nice" .22lr trays, but they are a bit too small for bits. From there you're jumping up to .32 which is just too big. And all of the smaller bullet rifle casings are necked down, so the back end of case (what the boxes are made to fit) are well over .380.
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Dec 17, 2013 03:40
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If you've got a drill press it would be easy to make something similar our of wood or pvc stock with the correct sized holes.
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Dec 17, 2013 03:47
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You could throw them out and get a cheap set with a nice molded case: http://www.harborfreight.com/100-piece-security-bit-set-68457.html
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Dec 17, 2013 04:07
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You could try .25 auto trays if you can find them empty somewhere. a .25 auto casing is .302 in in diameter at its widest point, and they would sit slightly loose in the tray, so add a couple thousandths to that. I know i have 1/2 a box of .25 auto *somewhere* around here, if I can find it I will put a few bits in it and take a pic, but I haven't seen it in a while so don't hold your breath.
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Dec 17, 2013 04:21
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iForge posted:You could try .25 auto trays if you can find them empty somewhere. a .25 auto casing is .302 in in diameter at its widest point, and they would sit slightly loose in the tray, so add a couple thousandths to that. I know i have 1/2 a box of .25 auto *somewhere* around here, if I can find it I will put a few bits in it and take a pic, but I haven't seen it in a while so don't hold your breath. I've got one, too, and going from memory I think that'd still be too big.
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Dec 17, 2013 05:56
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Astonishing Wang posted:What about using some of the plastic bullet holders that come in a box of handgun bullets? I'm not sure how the sizing would work but there might be a casing that is similar to a screwdriver bit. We bought a 10 pack of cheap lovely screwdriver bits at work a few years ago that came in 2 part rubber cases (like these on ebay We still had a few left. I have stripped all the bits out into an pot that now lives in a cupboard and simply refilled 3 rubber packs with the bits i want, split how i want them. When one wears out i bin it and refil from my spares tub. I keep taking out my meth addict selection of screwdrivers too and filing them in my spare tools box but they always seem to creep back into my main toolbox!
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Dec 17, 2013 09:50
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mod sassinator posted:You could throw them out and get a cheap set with a nice molded case: I find it's often the situation that it's easier to buy something cheap, thrown away the actual product and use the nice case/box with the expensive item that didn't come with a case at all.
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Dec 17, 2013 10:49
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Cakefool posted:You know what's great? Having to remove a (central heating)radiator and being able to lay my hands on every tool I'll need in a single trip in about 30 seconds. got any poundshops near you? should be able to get some pill organisers for a quid
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Dec 18, 2013 01:10
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I use this for my driver bits, and it works great http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-6-Compartment-Medium-Tough-Case-DW2190/202248657
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Dec 18, 2013 04:07
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I bought one of these for $25 on sale at princess auto a while ago They're color coded, so you can prove when somebody has stolen one of your bits. All my other loose ones i just keep in the drawer.
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Dec 18, 2013 04:16
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mod sassinator posted:You could throw them out and get a cheap set with a nice molded case: I was going to post exactly this, although I don't know if I'd call that case "nice". The molding is kind of crappy, so bumping it a little or even turning it upside down will cause a few bits to dislodge, with that number going up as a function of bump intensity / orientation that isn't 'perfectly flat'. That said, I've had that exact set for a number of years and (despite the kind of subpar case) I've been very happy with it for the $8 or so I think I paid. Although I'd ditch it in a heartbeat for that Princess Auto set.
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Dec 18, 2013 04:50
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Jonny 290 posted:Has anybody experimented with reloading cordless tool battery packs? I've got a fairly decent Panasonic drill with two smoked nicads and am thinking of buying a bunch of eBay cells; it's while-watching-TV work for me so labor's not an issue, and the cost would be less than half of new packs. They appear to be simple, 10-cell sub-C series wired, no chips or anything. I work at a place that does this. Its a pretty easy task in and of itself, but there are a few caveats that will make the whole process a shitload easier. First, soldering directly to the cells themselves is nearly impossible. Get cells with tabs and solder between the tabs. Second, the cells come in a pretty wide range of qualities. Sanyo and Panasonic are the good stuff, but are a bit pricey. Keep in mind all batteries will inevitably fail, so the highest quality not be your best choice depending on what you're looking for. I'd avoid the very cheapest cells though. You really don't wanna be handling the stuff that comes out of a leaking NiCd battery. If you'd like any more advice, feel free to PM.
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Dec 18, 2013 04:58
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I was about the pull the trigger on a Hobart 140 MIG welder... It was $50 off with free shipping through tractor supply, the best price I'd seen. But now they're listing it as in store only 
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Dec 18, 2013 05:12
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Mat_Drinks posted:I was about the pull the trigger on a Hobart 140 MIG welder... It was $50 off with free shipping through tractor supply, the best price I'd seen. But now they're listing it as in store only I ended up buying the Eastwood Mig 135 for $300. I've only used it with flux core but I'm still learning and have been pretty happy with it. I chose the Eastwood over the big box Lincoln's because it was cheaper and it has infinite voltage settings instead of only 5. For $50 more than the Hobart you can get the Eastwood Mig 175 which includes a spool gun but it runs on 220v.
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Dec 18, 2013 05:41
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bung posted:I ended up buying the Eastwood Mig 135 for $300. I've only used it with flux core but I'm still learning and have been pretty happy with it. I chose the Eastwood over the big box Lincoln's because it was cheaper and it has infinite voltage settings instead of only 5. For $50 more than the Hobart you can get the Eastwood Mig 175 which includes a spool gun but it runs on 220v. Have you tried to weld as thick as 1/4" with it? How'd it do? Or have you ever pegged the duty cycle? Thanks in advance for your thoughts... I actually kind of looked at the Eastwood unit at one point but I was a little concerned by the feed mechanism being mostly plastic as opposed to the Hobart which is cast aluminum. That said, the price difference sure makes it tempting. I don't *think* I'll be welding aluminum so I probably don't need a spool gun, and if I do get serious about it I'll probably buy a separate TIG unit. For my first welder I'm trying to keep it 120 as I'd like to do some outdoor welding for some in depth house projects.
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Dec 18, 2013 05:53
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This looks fuckin' rad and I would drop cash on it in a heartbeat. Even if all the bits are crap, their replacements would enjoy that case.
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Dec 18, 2013 06:25
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Splizwarf posted:This looks fuckin' rad and I would drop cash on it in a heartbeat. Even if all the bits are crap, their replacements would enjoy that case. You can tell just from the picture that the holes in the security torx bits are drilled off-center. Same deal as HF's set.
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Dec 18, 2013 09:13
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The correct way to remove security Torx is with a drill. I hate those loving things. I have seen two Snap-On S-Torx bits just twist into disintegration, there's no not-weak way to make them. I like to handle them with a normal impact Torx socket, an extension, and a hammer. And then there's no drat dot anymore. 
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Dec 19, 2013 05:35
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Splizwarf posted:The correct way to remove security Torx is with a drill. I hate those loving things. I have seen two Snap-On S-Torx bits just twist into disintegration, there's no not-weak way to make them. I like to handle them with Manual impact driver and a Torx socket. And then there's no drat dot anymore. Fixed that for you. Might as well do it all in one step. Edit: Yes I have done this. drat you Compaq!!!
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Dec 19, 2013 05:58
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It took the better part of a day to find the 5 point security torx bit to swap out the maf on my 540. One set in one store had it. Seriously, gently caress that wacky poo poo.
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Dec 19, 2013 06:40
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I've got a big old gently caress YOU for IBM too, they put tamperproof phillips screws on the power supply in my IBM PS/2 55SX and I had to replace some filter caps in it. Hey assholes, you think that isn't user serviceable, I disagree and own a soldering iron.
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Dec 19, 2013 06:56
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Powershift posted:It took the better part of a day to find the 5 point security torx bit to swap out the maf on my 540. One set in one store had it. Seriously, gently caress that wacky poo poo. Oh god, that bloody bit. I couldn't find one in any shop or online store. I eventually got lucky with some guy selling a used one on eBay. Most places weren't even aware that it existed. I've got it in my toolbox and it will probably stay there, unused, until I die.
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Dec 19, 2013 08:47
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spog posted:Oh god, that bloody bit. What surprised me is acklands, and greggs and all the big name industrial places had nothing. But good ol' princess auto....  5 point security bit, and 12 point torx, all in one kit.
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Dec 19, 2013 09:02
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Jonny 290 posted:Has anybody experimented with reloading cordless tool battery packs? I've got a fairly decent Panasonic drill with two smoked nicads and am thinking of buying a bunch of eBay cells; it's while-watching-TV work for me so labor's not an issue, and the cost would be less than half of new packs. They appear to be simple, 10-cell sub-C series wired, no chips or anything. I've done this a few times. Order cells with solder tabs unless you want to spot weld the batteries, I wouldn't gently caress around with replacing damaged cells, order enough to make a whole new pack and just take your time, paying attention to order and polarity. Rebuilding a $140 pack for $10 is pretty nice.
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Dec 19, 2013 16:36
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Jonny 290 posted:Has anybody experimented with reloading cordless tool battery packs? I've got a fairly decent Panasonic drill with two smoked nicads and am thinking of buying a bunch of eBay cells; it's while-watching-TV work for me so labor's not an issue, and the cost would be less than half of new packs. They appear to be simple, 10-cell sub-C series wired, no chips or anything. My dad gave me two Makita drills but the batteries seemed to be shot. After a full charge they would run for about 10 seconds. After seeing the price for replacements I did some research on rebuilding the packs. I found the video listed below and used the same technique to revive all four of the batteries. I used two 18 volt Milwaukee batteries to revive two Makita 12 volts and two Makita 14.4 volts. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQYdi48N81U bung fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Dec 19, 2013 |
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Dec 19, 2013 19:02
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spog posted:I've got it in my toolbox and it will probably stay there, unused, until I die. Right next to the triple squares. 
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Dec 19, 2013 21:47
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Oh yeah, my Snap-On Order has arrived! (it was only put in a few weeks ago, it was part of the deal) Feast your eyes on these magnificent tools  Can't wait to use them, the 80 tooth 1/2" ratchet is obscene in how short of an arc it has before it clicks. It's baby's first time having the big boy tools, I've been using Mastercraft/Stanley/Craftsman all this time and the difference in quality is insane (so is the price) Definitely looking forward to some wrenching in the spring when it warms up around here.
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Dec 20, 2013 07:04
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Bajaha posted:Oh yeah, my Snap-On Order has arrived! (it was only put in a few weeks ago, it was part of the deal) My two snap on ratchets and my ratcheting screwdriver are my most favorite tools. Snap on is pricey as all hell but I'd say its worth it
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Dec 20, 2013 09:48
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Bajaha posted:Oh yeah, my Snap-On Order has arrived! (it was only put in a few weeks ago, it was part of the deal) I'm looking for the design of that bottom one (flex head, 80 tooth?) in 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 drive - preferably appropriate relative sizes (short 1/4, medium 3/8, long 1/2, basically). Everytime I look at the snap-on site, though, my eyes kind of glaze over and I get bored.
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Dec 20, 2013 09:51
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Krakkles posted:Which ones are these? Snap-On has one of the worst retail websites in history. They really really want you to use a catalogue instead. The website might as well be a folder tree generated from the Quark doc of the print catalogue. It's honestly the reason I have never bought anything from them, I've tried several times. I don't buy poo poo from magazines or our oily tool truck buddy Chet Brodawg, I buy it from places like Amazon. Not that they need it, but Snap-On doesn't want my business. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 14:50 on Dec 20, 2013 |
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Dec 20, 2013 14:44
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Krakkles posted:Which ones are these? Yeah, their online store is a mess, I used the online catalog which just recently keeps trying to redirect you to their store. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/catalog.asp?tool=all It's not too much of a nightmare to navigate, it's pretty useful if you already know what you want, and then if you want to buy online you can just throw in the part numbers into the search on the store website and not have to deal with stupid navigation stuff on the left. You got it mostly right, what I ordered is the following: (got some advice from this thread on what to order) F80 - Ratchet, Sealed Head, Dual 80™ Technology, Standard Handle, 3/8" drive, 7 7/16" FHL80 - Ratchet, Dual 80® Technology, Long Handle, Comfort Handle, 3/8" drive, 12 7/16" THLF72 - Ratchet, Sealed Head, Long Flex Head, Soft Grip, Red, 1/4" drive, 8 1/4" S80A - Ratchet, Dual 80, Standard Handle, 1/2" drive, 10 5/16" I always end up using the 3/8" ratchets the most so I grabbed two, one regular and one long comfort handle, was debating whether or not to get the comfort handle for the 1/2", originally decided for the standard handle and I changed my mind to the comfort handle, but I guess the change didn't get made when the order was put it (I was ordering through a friend) but oh well, It's a nice ratchet either way. I would have paid just shy of $500 (taxes inc.) if I had bought these locally, ended up snagging them for just around $300 after tax and shipping.
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Dec 20, 2013 16:45
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Excellent tips on the battery pack rebuilds, guys, with any luck and about $30 I should have two new packs for this pretty nice Panasonic! Sure beats my other cordless drill, which was a 12v that I literally bolted jumper cables to. Eh, it's portable enough. --- I have a wild goose chase for you all. I am looking for an adapter for 1/4" standard hex drivers to fit those little micro hex bits that are getting popular. I have seen varying terms for the latter, though, and though I've seen one of these in a Youtube video, i can't seem to find one to purchase. If it's part of a little $10 bit kit or whatever, that's fine too.
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Dec 20, 2013 19:00
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