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An airbrush would make this so much easier. I'm almost finished my first batch of stuff painted by regular brush, will put it up soon. Not going to touch the Mantic terrain until I get an airbrush though, I want to keep my sanity.
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Jan 24, 2014 16:10
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ijyt posted:^^^ I was going to go that route, but it seems the UK is pretty nuts about its decorative bark because the smallest bag I found was 100 litres. People who own herps love using orchid bark for substrate - you ought to be able to find a small bag at any pet store that carries herps or herp supplies. e: Or get it online 
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Jan 24, 2014 19:04
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Achmed Jones posted:People who own herps love using orchid bark for substrate - you ought to be able to find a small bag at any pet store that carries herps or herp supplies. I picked up a ~1 quart/1 liter bag of these from my local Joann Crafts for maybe $5-6, too. It was one of the more reasonably priced things in the floral arrangement section. (Now if only I could find moss in reasonable quantities....)
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Jan 24, 2014 20:03
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Achmed Jones posted:People who own herps love using orchid bark for substrate - you ought to be able to find a small bag at any pet store that carries herps or herp supplies. Who's the man? You're the man. Thanks, man! e: Also I can't stop reading herpes instead of herp.
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Jan 24, 2014 20:16
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Finding bark inst really the problem, finding large chunks of it is. I have looked at the local DIY stores and they are all small chunks like maybe 1 - 2 inches in diameter at most.
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Jan 24, 2014 21:00
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Ha, I was actually just out today looking around. Forgot to look at home depot/lowe's, but the hobby shops carry teeny tiny junk, as do the pet stores. That big billowy and/or chunky stuff is harder to find. And most of the trees in my area have thin scales more than lumps/chunks, so harvesting on my own is difficult. I'll still probably have a look in the woods, just to see what I can find on some down trees, but from what I've seen in the area, "natural" options may be limited.
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Jan 24, 2014 22:57
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LumberingTroll posted:Finding bark inst really the problem, finding large chunks of it is. I have looked at the local DIY stores and they are all small chunks like maybe 1 - 2 inches in diameter at most. http://www.antenocitisworkshop.com/virgin-cork-bark.html (This one is about 50cm across) or: http://www.antenocitisworkshop.com/decorplus-boulders.html I can't remember where you guys live, but if you look for 'Cork Bark' you can probably find something you can order. like... http://www.corkstore.com/Search?search=bark
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Jan 24, 2014 23:35
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Pilgrimski posted:http://www.antenocitisworkshop.com/virgin-cork-bark.html (This one is about 50cm across) This is perfect, and pretty selfish but thank goodness it's in the UK and doesn't have some ridiculous shipping.
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Jan 25, 2014 00:22
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LumberingTroll posted:Finding bark inst really the problem, finding large chunks of it is. I have looked at the local DIY stores and they are all small chunks like maybe 1 - 2 inches in diameter at most. I'm actually taking a break from making those hills right now to type this. I ran over to Home Depot and just grabbed a bag of "Scotchman's Choice" brand decorative pine bark for $3, and then discovered exactly how much 2 cubic feet of pine bark really is. I was initially disappointed that it wasn't filled to the brim with massive chunks, but there are plenty of decent sized nuggets in there, and have just stacked and layered the smaller pieces to much the same effect.
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Jan 25, 2014 05:10
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Could use some third party input here. The board I'm (hoping to) build will have a lightweight frame of fairly thin pine wood strips and will be using three blue insulation boards. Now, doing a rough test by holding the 3 boards end to end, it is a pain in the rear end to move from the upstairs landing (where it'd be stored hanging on the wall) to downstairs where games get played. Would I be risking much structural integrity if I built it so that the three boards are split up, and then slot together with magnets? Dimensions (L x W x H) pre:Red var. x 10mm x 10mm Green var. x 6mm x 45mm Blue 1210mm x 602mm x 15mm
  Standard sized 40K table is 72 inches long and 48 inches wide, this would be 71.1 inches long and 47.6 inches wide, so just missing a bit here and there. E: gently caress, the red strip should go all the way around in the case of the modular one.  188.3mm spacing between five (5) 582mm x 10mm x 10mm strips. ijyt fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Jan 25, 2014 |
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Jan 25, 2014 19:22
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ijyt posted:Could use some third party input here. I just built a table. Here are my notes: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3494017&pagenumber=1017&perpage=40#post423758961 http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3494017&pagenumber=1090&perpage=40#post424704872 I tried doing what you are doing, with no crossbeams but ultimately the structural integrity was poo poo. I ended up using PVC board instead of wood, which was lighter.
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Jan 25, 2014 20:04
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TheChirurgeon posted:I just built a table. Here are my notes: PVC Board, huh. Do you happen to know the overall weight of the thing? It's a shame as I've already got the pine wood lying around, but I might be able to return it. I think I might also be able to improve the integrity by sandwiching the insulation board in between two pieces of 3mm thick plywood, and using wider crossbeams.
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Jan 25, 2014 20:12
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ijyt posted:PVC Board, huh. Do you happen to know the overall weight of the thing? It's a shame as I've already got the pine wood lying around, but I might be able to return it. The plywood is going to jack the weight up really quickly and you'll find that the blueboard is going to bow in the middle if you have nothing to support it. Each half of the board weighs about 25 lbs. I installed handles into each side which makes it easy to get up and downstairs. I also put small plastic feet on the undersides to keep them from scratching up surfaces they sit on. The biggest problem from what I can see is the middle section of your board: with nothing holding the sides in place there I just don't see how that's going to work. E: I had originally considered using corner braces under the corners and sides to hold up the hardboard "flooring" but it was just much more practical to build crossbeams. TheChirurgeon fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Jan 25, 2014 |
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Jan 25, 2014 20:18
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Maybe not plywood then, whatever it is they use to back cupboards and draws. If anything, the blue board would more likely crack and crumble, as it's not particularly flexible. I didn't think about the middle board, and now that you pointed it out I'll have to rethink it. PVC Board also seems to be out, as the two/three major retailers in the UK don't seem to stock what you used. 25lb per part is also quite a bit heavier than what I was hoping to achieve. I might think about using wider crossbeams too, probably in the 50mm range. e: Actually, I think I can totally solve the middle issue. I'm missing 0.9" of length, so I could simply add a half height strip along the long edges of the middle section for additional support. Once the whole thing has had sand applied it wouldn't be noticeable. e2: If I do it for every "open" edge, I can protect the foam from wear and tear while making up the missing 0.9". ijyt fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Jan 25, 2014 |
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Jan 25, 2014 21:06
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I didn't even know this thread existed until today. I offer my board as tribute:  Some of the multi-level hills are modular. All of the crates, ladders, and walkways are individual as well. Not pictured: More hills, bigger hills, GW's Imperial Bastion kit, GW's crater set, and GW's crashed Aquilla Lander.
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Jan 25, 2014 22:00
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Welcome to the thread. That tribute is most acceptable! What is it made of? (This is possibly relevant to the few posts above yours) Regarding using magnets to hold sections of board together, I've thought about that too and convinced myself it wouldn't work. I don't think they would be strong enough to hold counter the movement of a heavy board getting nudged as you bump against the edges when you lean over it. Something I'm considering doing for my 4'x2' board sections is using velcro tape strips to bind them together. Something like this:  Two 2" sections on each board, and then a single 4" section can be placed once the boards are in position to bind them together.
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Jan 26, 2014 01:05
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I thought about velcro, but I just can't convince myself it would work. The best would be those metal clasps you get on tool boxes, if only the wood weren't too thin. Alternatively, use both magnets (for alignment) and velcro (for security), along with rubber strips on the underside to prevent the board slipping and sliding on the surface it's placed on. e: I'm so glad I didn't jump straight into construction.
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Jan 26, 2014 01:16
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ijyt posted:I thought about velcro, but I just can't convince myself it would work. The best would be those metal clasps you get on tool boxes, if only the wood weren't too thin. I use latches on each side of mine and it not only holds together well, it allows for easy expansion with one or more leafs. basically this: https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRRHeamLo863eKB4yWvKo8HH8jfd11cDiy66Ryhcis31ThjBNkH
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Jan 26, 2014 01:27
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TheChirurgeon posted:I use latches on each side of mine and it not only holds together well, it allows for easy expansion with one or more leafs. That's fine as your frame is an inch thick and made of tougher material, mine's less than a quarter inch thick. There's not really enough wood for it to be attached securely to.
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Jan 26, 2014 01:33
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ijyt posted:That's fine as your frame is an inch thick and made of tougher material, mine's less than a quarter inch thick. There's not really enough wood for it to be attached securely to. yeah, fair point. I didn't realize your frame would be so thin. In that case, why are you even building a frame to begin with? Additionally, if you aren't planning to build features into your board--and that's the only reason I'd even use foam--you can do the same job with 1-2 sheets of plywood that you've painted up, and they won't need a frame.
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Jan 26, 2014 01:34
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Deanut Pancer posted:Welcome to the thread. That tribute is most acceptable! What is it made of? (This is possibly relevant to the few posts above yours) The board itself is 2 pieces of 2'x 4'x 3/4" MDF. Weighs a ton but its durable as all hell and doesn't slide around too much. Also let's me store them somewhat easy by sliding them behind other pieces of furniture.
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Jan 26, 2014 01:36
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TheChirurgeon posted:yeah, fair point. I didn't realize your frame would be so thin. In that case, why are you even building a frame to begin with? Additionally, if you aren't planning to build features into your board--and that's the only reason I'd even use foam--you can do the same job with 1-2 sheets of plywood that you've painted up, and they won't need a frame. The frame is there for dice rolling and (less this) model security. It'll also protect the slightly more crumbly foam, but hopefully sealing in PVA will alleviate that. Plywood is heavy as gently caress, and a thickness that wouldn't warp would be like, 30kg or something. I want a lightweight build like this so I can hang it up on the wall upstairs, as storage space is limited in my apartment. Even worse, they'll be tearing down the building in about 2 years and moving us off somewhere else, so something that can be easily transported is better too. Plus, with the frame there, I have room to place large pieces of terrain, the kind that would usually be sculpted into foam, without worry about them sliding off of the edges due to an overzealous dice roll or something silly. My friend built a 6x4 board out of two pieces of MDF and it's just a pain in the rear end for storage, getting to the table, putting away once it's done, etc. so that's another thing that motivated me to be as light weight as possible. Ideally I'd just be using the plastic injection molded GW stuff, but gently caress paying £175 for that.
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Jan 26, 2014 01:42
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How about aluminum extrusion for a frame, then? Like 1/16" thick L bar, 1/8" if you're worried about strength, you can readily get that at hardware stores at like 2" widths, that'd give you plenty of lip and wouldn't weigh hardly anything at all.
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Jan 26, 2014 01:46
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Bad Munki posted:How about aluminum extrusion for a frame, then? Like 1/16" thick L bar, 1/8" if you're worried about strength, you can readily get that at hardware stores at like 2" widths, that'd give you plenty of lip and wouldn't weigh hardly anything at all. Depends on the cost, but I'll look into it. What would be the best way of slapping that all together? I've little experience with wood, let alone metal. I know wood glue and nails will get the frame and foam stuck together nicely, but I've not a clue about aluminium. ijyt fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Jan 26, 2014 |
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Jan 26, 2014 01:47
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$20 for 8' of 2" 16 gauge L extrusion at Lowe's. e: You're in the UK, whoops. Still, you should be able to find it at comparable specs/prices, I don't know how many liters a dollar is or whatever.
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Jan 26, 2014 01:50
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I feel like this is one of those things where the US and UK might have slighty different names for things, or UK DIY stores are incompetent as gently caress or maybe I am because again I can't find it. I'll have a proper looksy tomorrow, but it looks like a promising idea.
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Jan 26, 2014 01:55
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Do you have a UK analog to the US' "home improvement" type big box stores? I don't mind looking at a website to see what I can find if you can point me at a relevant one.
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Jan 26, 2014 01:56
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Bad Munki posted:Do you have a UK analog to the US' "home improvement" type big box stores? I don't mind looking at a website to see what I can find if you can point me at a relevant one. I think that'd be B&Q (https://www.diy.com), but I've found the extrusion at websites specifically for it, and the 2" + 1/16" thickness seems to be about £12/$20 for two lengths of 6 feet. It's 1AM here so I'll take a proper look at measurements, quantities and weight in the morning. In the meantime, thanks for all the help goons.
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Jan 26, 2014 02:03
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Well that sounds close enough, then. Heck, better than Lowe's (which isn't surprising, because Lowe's is overpriced in general.)
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Jan 26, 2014 02:07
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At my brothers house we have a board made out of a piece of insulation foam with a wood trim frame. It weighs less than 5 pounds. I'll get him to take some pictures.
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Jan 26, 2014 07:47
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Cool. I think what I'll do is, seeing as I already have the wood, forgo the aluminium for now and just go for it. Worst comes to worst, I reinforce it with the aluminium or start over. Also, it's beaver board that I meant to use for the sandwich, my mistake.
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Jan 26, 2014 13:01
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I have three words for you guys who want to make a lightweight table: hollow core door. They're 2 feet by 8 feet, weigh about 20 pounds, and require no cutting. If you want to do it super easy-like, you butt two together on the long edge and you've got a 4x8 table. If you want a little added complexity, take some molding, trim, or even just some 1x4s, nail/screw them onto the borders of the doors and you've got a little protection against things getting knocked off the table. If you want to go really crazy though, do what I did - get some dowels, drill some holes, and make yourself a table that separates after play and that won't accidentally get separated during a game. The most difficult part of this project is getting the dowel holes to line up - and that's easy if you have a dowel jig. Get yourself a cheap sawhorse set and you can break everything down after a game and store it all vertically.
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Jan 28, 2014 19:48
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berzerkmonkey posted:I have three words for you guys who want to make a lightweight table: hollow core door. Interior doors come in lots of dimensions, starting at 2 feet (but you can get much wider), and rarely as long as 8 feet (80" is much more standard). I used one as a desk for a very long time: I just propped it across two two-drawer filing cabinets, and I used the doorknob hole as a convenient place to run computer wires and lamp wires down through. This is a really good idea, though, and I even have a spare one (I had to hack apart the lock area to remove a broken lock so that I could replace the door so that I could get in to my office closet).
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Jan 30, 2014 21:37
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Leperflesh posted:Interior doors come in lots of dimensions, starting at 2 feet (but you can get much wider), and rarely as long as 8 feet (80" is much more standard). I used one as a desk for a very long time: I just propped it across two two-drawer filing cabinets, and I used the doorknob hole as a convenient place to run computer wires and lamp wires down through. Yeah, I was thinking about this on the way into work this morning. I think my door is actually 7 feet tall/long, and not the 8 feet I originally stated - my mistake. Also, you can get them as blanks (no holes) for around $20 each (I think mine were $16 each when I bought them.)
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Jan 30, 2014 21:52
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The second Underground Lasers kickstarter is open, already funded and going nicely through stretch goals, which is cool because the first project really stalled early. It's got terrain for Infinity Paradiso, 3x3x3 stuff specific for Deadzone, some more generic scifi stuff, and has some Gothic things plus more infinity/scifi and Deadzone to unlock as it goes along, so check it out if you're interested. Also, here's a couple of the containers I've pretty much finished painting, the radar dishes are still in progress    Decided to do the shipping containers in mixed shipping container colours of today. The dark red one is grimy and a little weather beaten, but in still in service. The blue one is an older container recently retired and turned into some rain beaten housing, and the green one is so old it first entered service when human freighters were limited to Earth's oceans; how it ended up out here is lost to time.  Wide armoured ones are now military equipment containers, so they get painted in dazzle camouflage. Still needs some touching up.  Because safety stripes are the loving business 
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Feb 1, 2014 14:19
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NTRabbit posted:The second Underground Lasers kickstarter is open, already funded and going nicely through stretch goals, which is cool because the first project really stalled early. It's got terrain for Infinity Paradiso, 3x3x3 stuff specific for Deadzone, some more generic scifi stuff, and has some Gothic things plus more infinity/scifi and Deadzone to unlock as it goes along, so check it out if you're interested. Prime yo poo poo son.
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Feb 1, 2014 17:06
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Prime yo poo poo son. I did, extensively. What makes you think I didn't?
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Feb 1, 2014 17:10
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NTRabbit posted:I did, extensively. What makes you think I didn't? The inside of all those rails being really bright colored. Or did you paint them like that?
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Feb 1, 2014 17:39
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Edit : wrong thread sorrry
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Feb 1, 2014 19:54
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El Estrago Bonito posted:The inside of all those rails being really bright colored. Or did you paint them like that? If you mean the walkways, I painted yellow inside the holes in the rails, because I thought it looked cooler
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Feb 1, 2014 20:06
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