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fullroundaction posted:I'd be willing to say that there's nothing even close to as important as yeast/yeast health/pitching rates when it comes to making good beer. If this isn't already factored into 'yeast health', fermentation temperature is a close second.
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Feb 19, 2014 22:44
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Fluo posted:Ah ok gotcha, I'm guess I'm just always a bit anal when it comes to splashing and such because god drat all that work to go down the toilet from it splashing. Half the batch of my second ever brew had oxidized because of splashing* and since then been a bit anal about it. I'm not trying to discount you getting walking into, but I'm not sure that would add that much O2. Unless it was a bucket with it's lid off it wouldn't have been oxidized. Yeast Chat posted:
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Feb 19, 2014 23:13
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For those of you who use secondary vessels as a way to clarify the beer, have you tried using gelatin? Obviously if it's a lager it's gonna sit around for a long time anyway, but I'm pretty sure you'll get to the super clear zone a lot faster with gelatin.
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Feb 19, 2014 23:36
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Glottis posted:For those of you who use secondary vessels as a way to clarify the beer, have you tried using gelatin? Obviously if it's a lager it's gonna sit around for a long time anyway, but I'm pretty sure you'll get to the super clear zone a lot faster with gelatin. Gelatin/isinglass/post-boil finings cross whatever arbitrary "real vs. artifical" line is in my head, at least for something like clarity, which I only slightly care about. It may be because gelatin and isinglass are animal products that it weirds me out, I don't know. I use whirlfloc or irish moss in the boil, and otherwise just rely on time and maybe a cold crash to get clarity.
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Feb 20, 2014 00:00
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more falafel please posted:Gelatin/isinglass/post-boil finings cross whatever arbitrary "real vs. artifical" line is in my head, at least for something like clarity, which I only slightly care about. It may be because gelatin and isinglass are animal products that it weirds me out, I don't know. I use whirlfloc or irish moss in the boil, and otherwise just rely on time and maybe a cold crash to get clarity. I don't use gelatin or isinglass simply because I have vegan friends that wind up wanting to drink my beer, and I don't care nearly as much about clarity as some people do (though now that I can cold-crash, I may get better clarity for almost-free).
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Feb 20, 2014 00:02
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I just started using gelatin recently because I forgot my whirlfloc on 2 batches and just moved and have no vegan friends at the moment. The difference in clarity is amazing with gelatin. My beers look drat near filtered now, something I could never get with just a cold crash. I'm looking to try out Biofine Clear to keep things vegan, hopefully it works just as well.
Josh Wow fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Feb 20, 2014 |
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Feb 20, 2014 00:30
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Raised by Hamsters posted:I'm getting an urge to educate my newbie brewer self via science, though honestly If you're already dealing with  then be wary of splitting anything up too much since it multiplies the effort of monitoring fermentation, racking, sanitizing equipment, etc. Split 2 or 3, maybe 4 ways is doable. Don't be me and split a batch of cider 9 ways to try different yeasts.
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Feb 20, 2014 00:45
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Don't be me and split a batch of cider 9 ways to try different yeasts. How is that working btw
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Feb 20, 2014 01:00
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Glottis posted:For those of you who use secondary vessels as a way to clarify the beer, have you tried using gelatin? Obviously if it's a lager it's gonna sit around for a long time anyway, but I'm pretty sure you'll get to the super clear zone a lot faster with gelatin. I've used gelatin a few times, and I'm not totally sure how I feel about it- it seems to take a little something away from the beer(other than the sediment). I still have a few packets left, but I'll probably just be using it for ciders in the future.
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Feb 20, 2014 02:31
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Cpt.Wacky posted:If you're already dealing with Ehh, is currently losing to fun and learning, so I think I'm good. But 4 was my target, yeah. Thanks for the input all, I'm going to dive into this.
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Feb 20, 2014 03:13
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Paladine_PSoT posted:How is that working btw I should have racked them to clear a month ago, got busy, didn't check the airlocks often enough and they dried out enough to let something in. Haven't had time to do anything beyond refilling the airlocks. It doesn't look too bad and I've had much worse infections that ended up fine. I'm just dreading having to rack all of it and sanitize equipment between each one. Here's what they look like now:  And here's what another batch from about the same time looks like after racking once:  Left is perry, middle and right are another split batch of cider. Unfortunately the right cider also got infected and has a bit of pellicle going on: 
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Feb 20, 2014 03:37
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For those having a hard time keeping track of what they want to do next, you should keep a log - write that poo poo down. I know I've posted it before, but here is the one I made: http://bit.ly/14etZpF - feel free to copy/paste steal the idea or improve upon it. It's helped me keep track of my wants and seasonality of my beers. e: posting this made me realize how far behind posting updated recipes there and my website I am. fudge.
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Feb 20, 2014 04:22
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^^ I use my brew log all the time, it's like the command center for my brewing operation. Here it is, organized a bit differently and maybe a bit chaotic but I understand it.
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Feb 20, 2014 04:43
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zedprime posted:Repeated clarification is probably the one processing argument for it. Clarity isn't incredibly important in the grand scheme and its possible to clear out the primary pretty well if you need to. Clarity matters to those whom it matters to. A brilliantly clear beer is something to be admired. ChickenArise posted:There are some who think that getting off of the yeast cake will increase the effectiveness of a dry-hop, but I can't find the link about it, and I've also never tried personally. I suppose I should, though, since I have some free carboys and I'm not worried about the oxidation boogeyman. From Mad Fermentationist: "After fermentation is complete cold condition for a few days to remove most of the yeast before dry hopping, this prevents the yeast from stripping the dry hop aromatics from the wort. You could add gelatin to speed this up, but I haven't found that this to be necessary. " From Beersmith "Adding dry hops to the secondary maximizes the exposure without risking volatile aromas." Nothing scientific though, just opinions. My thought process is this: I want to brew the best beer possible so I'm going to ensure that every potential opportunity to increase the quality of my beer is done. Dry-hopping in primary has a potential to push out some of the volatile compounds that are desirable when dry-hopping so I like to rack off to get the cleanest extraction I can. If you don't want to do it that way, it's fine you don't have to, that's why we all have our own methods and they work for us for our purposes.
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Feb 20, 2014 05:50
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I don't really understand not caring about clarity. Gelatin costs like 2 dollars for a 20 batch supply and takes less than 5 minutes to prepare.
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Feb 20, 2014 06:50
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That's still effort that I gain nothing from. A whirlfloc tablet gets things good enough.
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Feb 20, 2014 07:42
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So 300g hops total, 100 of each, amarillo, mosaic and galaxie. Any idea how to use them best? Do I bitter with all 3? How mich do I bitter compared to the aroma additions? It's going to be about 18 litres of wort when I'm done. Or if someone has a hop schedule for their own ipa brews that would be really helpfull.
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Feb 20, 2014 13:08
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Midorka posted:Clarity matters to those whom it matters to. A brilliantly clear beer is something to be admired.
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Feb 20, 2014 13:17
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I made a beer! First batch ever, Brewer's Best English Pale Ale kit. I fell prey to the standard rookie mistake of using the whole bag of priming sugar (wish I had seen that before I bottled), and for whatever reason I ended up with more like 36 bottles so I think that's why it tastes a bit over-carbonated and thin. Lesson learned. I might try one more kit before I start branching out into looking for and trying recipes once I get around to reading TCJOH.
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Feb 20, 2014 14:00
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Sistergodiva posted:So 300g hops total, 100 of each, amarillo, mosaic and galaxie. Any idea how to use them best? Do I bitter with all 3? How mich do I bitter compared to the aroma additions? It's going to be about 18 litres of wort when I'm done. This will turn out to be a ridiculously hoppy but not too bitter IIPA so make sure to build a base that can support it. I brewed something similar recently and it turned out a bit like Heady with the crazy resinous mouth feel and tons of citrus/fruit. Add a small amount (of one hop, I've bittered with galaxy before and it's turned out well) at beginning of boil for bittering, if you're using software add enough for about 40 ibu. Add your next additions at 5 minutes left in the boil, about 14g each hop, at flamout add another 14g each and steep for 30 min, cool wort temp to below 85C add another addition of all three about 20g each and steep 30 min. Half your remaining hops into equal additions and after primary fermentation is done add the first hop addition and let dry hop 7 days. Pull the hop bag or rack to secondary or keg, cold crash/add gelatin, add your second hop addition and warm back up to a bit less than room temp, about 16-17C and let dry hop for 5 days then cold crash again for 3 days or so. Should be good to go after that. Jerome Louis fucked around with this message at 14:39 on Feb 20, 2014 |
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Feb 20, 2014 14:30
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Jerome Louis posted:This will turn out to be a ridiculously hoppy but not too bitter IIPA so make sure to build a base that can support it. I brewed something similar recently and it turned out a bit like Heady with the crazy resinous mouth feel and tons of citrus/fruit. Thanks! My base is about 1.065 ish og. 2row and 5% carapils. Will that worl with your hops or should I tone them down a bit?
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Feb 20, 2014 14:53
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Sistergodiva posted:Thanks! My base is about 1.065 ish og. 2row and 5% carapils. Will that worl with your hops or should I tone them down a bit? I think if you add a pound of sugar in there as well it should be good, but just keep in mind this will be a huge hop bomb for sure and the hops will overpower everything. That's what I wanted when I brewed mine, though 
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Feb 20, 2014 14:57
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Jerome Louis posted:I think if you add a pound of sugar in there as well it should be good, but just keep in mind this will be a huge hop bomb for sure and the hops will overpower everything. That's what I wanted when I brewed mine, though I think a lot of hop is gone when I drink US stuff here, but pretty much the hoppiest thing I've drunk is dead pony club, will this be much more?
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Feb 20, 2014 15:07
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zedprime posted:Solutions to the problems you link aren't really unique to a second vessel though. CO2 scrubbing can be prevented by waiting for fermentation to complete. Particulate scrubbing during settling can be prevented by clearing while still in the first vessel. Yes that's true. One reason why I secondary when adding anything is still for maximum extraction. When racking off you're leaving liquid behind, while it's only a little, it still is going to carry some percentage of concentration of whatever you added. I dunno, everyone has their own way of doing things and they all work.
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Feb 20, 2014 15:12
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Angry Grimace posted:I don't really understand not caring about clarity. Gelatin costs like 2 dollars for a 20 batch supply and takes less than 5 minutes to prepare. I am the opposite, who gives a poo poo about it? Doesn't affect flavor at all.
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Feb 20, 2014 15:50
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I agree quite a bit on your base recipe. I have a base grain bill that I picked up from a Sierra Nevada clone recipe that is my Go To start for building easy drinkable beers to try out different hops. For 5 Gallons: Two-Row 10.25lb Crystal 60L 10oz As a side bonus its wonderfully cheap to brew
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Feb 20, 2014 15:53
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Something like this maybe? http://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/nockeipa This is my second wholegrain, and I'm showing two friends how to brew, so not sure if I want to complicate things by steeping hops for an extra hour. How much does it add? I thought a lot of hoppyness was removed by the fermentation.
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Feb 20, 2014 16:06
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Jacobey000 posted:I am the opposite, who gives a poo poo about it? Doesn't affect flavor at all. When it comes to IPAs, my hazy beers have been the better batches. Now I'm superstitious.
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Feb 20, 2014 16:09
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Jacobey000 posted:I am the opposite, who gives a poo poo about it? Doesn't affect flavor at all. Cloudy beer means extra vitamins right?
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Feb 20, 2014 16:12
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zedprime posted:Cloudy beer means extra vitamins right? And extra god damned beer farts
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Feb 20, 2014 16:49
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If you start entering your beers into competitions you'll come to care about things like color and clarity very quickly. Otherwise I agree it's not very important, though I'd love it if the golden strong I made recently looked more like Duvel and less like Blue Moon.
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Feb 20, 2014 16:50
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Sistergodiva posted:Something like this maybe?  a 60 Minute boil is required to get the full bittering out of hops. Boiling hops for different periods of time has a major impact on what their contribution to the final product will be. Bittering hops are usually added at the 60 minute mark (60 minutes LEFT in the boil) although you can also add them during lautering/Sparge to get a slightly different bitterness out of them (this is referred to as First Wort Hopping) Flavor hops are those added very close to the end of the boil. I like to start those around the 15-20 minute mark. The IBU contribution is significantly less but these start imparting a larger share of their flavor and some aroma to the finished beer Aroma hops are typically added at flame-out or during a whirlpool step (or a hop back if you're really crazy about doing it like the big boys) These hops impart some flavor and the lion's share of the hop aroma in the final beer. Edit: Hey look I missed the post you were replying to. Please don;t wait that long to cool your beer. While the beer is still above 158F (70C) DMS will be produced in the beer. This is undesirable. DMS Usually Tastes/Smells like Cooked vegetables, especially creamed corn, cabbage, tomato, shellfish/oyster-like flavors. I'm not personally a fan of any of these in my beer. Zaepho fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Feb 20, 2014 |
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Feb 20, 2014 16:56
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First brew of the Year. ScaerCroe's Toast'd Oatmeal Cookie Porter! Mash these at 154F for 1 hour. Really hoping I don't get a stuck sparge because I forgot to buy rice hulls! 3.0# 2-Row 3.0# Munich 10L 3.0# Wheat 1.0# Crystal 60 0.25# Midnight Wheat 0.5# Toasted Oats that I posted here a few days ago. WL002 as my go to yeast. Going to add a pound of honey to secondary to liven things up as well, but this is my base. Brew on, amigos!
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Feb 20, 2014 17:08
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Marshmallow Blue posted:And extra god damned beer farts This was exactly why I first started looking into gelatin and whatnot. The gastro-intestinal distress is probably the biggest downside to homebrew, but it's kinda difficult to filter and pasteurize everything like the commercial brewers. I'll definitely be filtering once I start kegging again, although any filter fine enough to remove the yeast is also going to take some body with it...
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Feb 20, 2014 17:26
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ScaerCroe posted:Mash these at 154F for 1 hour. Really hoping I don't get a stuck sparge because I forgot to buy rice hulls!
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Feb 20, 2014 17:27
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Zaepho posted:
With most standard 2-row malts and a vigorous boil this won't really be an issue
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Feb 20, 2014 18:38
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Jerome Louis posted:With most standard 2-row malts and a vigorous boil this won't really be an issue I would expect that as well, but I have had this issue during the summers where when I can't cool the beer fast enough after the boil. It's not a huge off-flavor so long as i move things along quickly enough. However, in these cases there is a noticeable level of DMS present in the aftertaste of the beer. I'm planning to start using a pre-chiller for my chill water the summer to improve this situation.
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Feb 20, 2014 19:09
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So I got the wrong size hose for my auto-siphon, but I had everything ready to go and no siphon, so I just decided to use a hose clamp to pump it to the keg. About 1/3 of the way through, I realize the clamp isn't down tight enough and is sucking a ton of air into my beer  I have no clue if this is going to work, but my solution was to just mix up a priming solution and try to prime the keg in the hopes that active yeast will scrub any O2 I introduced. Any idea if this is just dumb thinking on my part?
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Feb 20, 2014 19:13
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Zaepho posted:Womp Womp! Might get through it, going to be a long slow sparge though I would expect! The more painful the brew day the better the beer comes out sometimes. Good luck! Some hot sparge water and it came out as easy as any beer I have brewed. Ymmv I suppose.
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Feb 20, 2014 19:44
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Angry Grimace posted:So I got the wrong size hose for my auto-siphon, but I had everything ready to go and no siphon, so I just decided to use a hose clamp to pump it to the keg. About 1/3 of the way through, I realize the clamp isn't down tight enough and is sucking a ton of air into my beer I put a lot of air into my beer when siphoning. Sure it was a bit oxidized, but a few months later it's still drinkable and I just bottled it.
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Feb 20, 2014 19:56
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