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iv46vi posted:For a 25 year old car the failure would have already happen, no? I think the risk is it has already happened and has not been fixed the right way, hence $1,000.
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Mar 10, 2014 16:19
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Can someone describe the problems with the NC stock suspension and/or Bilsteins to me? I've driven the base NC a couple of times a long time ago but don't recall the ride. Would Koni yellows and Tein lowering springs make a good alternative? A car I'm looking at is equipped as such.
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Mar 10, 2014 20:12
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The Bilsteins on the NC aren't valved aggressively, so the stock shock is actually better than the sport shock. I don't like Tein personally. There are plenty of real suspension options for the NC platform that aren't JDM garbage. E: koni yellows are a good ots shock Phone fucked around with this message at 20:20 on Mar 10, 2014 |
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Mar 10, 2014 20:16
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Tein springs aren't horrible, at least they're matched with Konis which are good shocks. I have yellows and they're great for the price.
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Mar 10, 2014 20:19
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Holy poo poo guys, talk about a rare find! I should just go buy this right now! http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/4368555297.html
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Mar 10, 2014 20:31
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So....... Looks like my Miata has a leak somewhere on the driver's side of the top. With the car stuck in the sheet of ice and it being so cold I didn't notice the ice in the car. I just rolled the car out for the first time this year and there's a sheet of ice under the driver's seat. I've got a heater out there to melt it but I'm probably gonna have to pull the carpet to thoroughly dry it, quickest way to do that?
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Mar 10, 2014 21:29
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Started the miata up for the first time in two weeks and got a fair bit of water coming out the tailpipe. I got it up to operating temp, and was still getting a relatively consistent drip. Is this normal after the cars been sitting for a bit? I tasted the water to confirm it is water and not coolant, and I'm not getting combustion gas in the overflow tank / no drop in coolant level so I'm pretty sure it's not a head gasket. I am getting white smoke if I step on it, though it doesn't smell so I'm still thinking water vapor. Going to grab a compression tester to check it regardless, and I've never used one of these before - can someone confirm I've got the right order of things? -Pull fuse for fuel pump -Start car until it stalls from lack of fuel -Disconnect plug wires, remove spark plugs (lable plugs so they go back in the same cylinder they came out of) -Put compression tester in first plug socket -Crank car a few times to get a pressure reading -Do the same with all cylinders I'm looking to see if the compression varries between cylinders by around 10%, at least for a head gasket issue, right?
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Mar 10, 2014 21:44
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So this was my afternoon  Serious amount of ice. There was 3 inches of water sitting where the seat was by the time I pulled the carpet (which was a loving bitch). I'm drying the carpet out on my patio right now, gonna toss it in the dryer later with some mild detergent but the padding is toast, is that something I can buy cheaply? And hey, this worked out because my seatbelt wasn't retracting and I needed to get in there anyways.
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Mar 10, 2014 23:40
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So I get the crank pulley off and this is what I find: Oh poo poo...  Oh hey the key notch is completely trashed too, and the key is nowhere to be found. This might explain some of my issues getting it timed.  Oh gently caress me.  I don't know if I can chase those threads with a tap or not, they look pretty hosed up. The crank bolt needs to be replaced for sure. That's not even considering the fact that the crank nose is hosed up and I don't have a key.
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Mar 11, 2014 00:00
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I think that crank is toast. What year car?
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Mar 11, 2014 00:17
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Is there another solution to fixing my seatbelt other than just replacing it? Ebay isn't helping, I'm only seeing passenger side parts.
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Mar 11, 2014 00:18
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I could (read: probably) be talking out of my rear end, but I think that seatbelts and seatbelt related malfunctions are under some federal law that the manufacturer needs to return it to working order free of charge. I'm probably talking out of my rear end.
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Mar 11, 2014 00:25
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Phone posted:I could (read: probably) be talking out of my rear end, but I think that seatbelts and seatbelt related malfunctions are under some federal law that the manufacturer needs to return it to working order free of charge. I'm probably talking out of my rear end. Not according to what I've read but I will call them and find out what they say. Edit: The federal mandate is for parts to be available, not free repairs according to a few forum answers I've found.
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Mar 11, 2014 00:27
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Rhyno posted:Is there another solution to fixing my seatbelt other than just replacing it? Ebay isn't helping, I'm only seeing passenger side parts. What year / mileage? Sometimes safety gear has a longer warranty. The only problem I had with my 08 was with the driver's side retractor. It was replaced under warranty, and they installed a redesigned headrest loop.
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Mar 11, 2014 00:27
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Goober Peas posted:What year / mileage? Sometimes safety gear has a longer warranty. The only problem I had with my 08 was with the driver's side retractor. It was replaced under warranty, and they installed a redesigned headrest loop. 2006, 59K. I've found lots of answers that say after 50K you're boned.
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Mar 11, 2014 00:29
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Rhyno posted:2006, 59K. I've found lots of answers that say after 50K you're boned. The worst they can say is no, at this point. On mine, it wouldn't retract when I unbuckled but then it would lock up once it did retract, and I couldn't fasten it. Hopefully you know where your leak is... I'd be more worried about that and any collateral damage it caused
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Mar 11, 2014 00:33
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Goober Peas posted:The worst they can say is no, at this point. On mine, it wouldn't retract when I unbuckled but then it would lock up once it did retract, and I couldn't fasten it. The weird thing is I can't find any leaks in the top. After everything is sorted out I'm gonna run to a car wash and see if I can find it.
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Mar 11, 2014 00:47
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blk posted:Can someone describe the problems with the NC stock suspension and/or Bilsteins to me? I've driven the base NC a couple of times a long time ago but don't recall the ride. The NC2 tweaked the suspension I believe; the stock and sport suspension is a bit stiffer and sits a little bit lower. They still like to ride the bumpstops on extreme cornering, though.
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Mar 11, 2014 01:12
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Phone posted:I think that crank is toast. What year car? '95. I have ordered new hardware for the crank (except the crank pulley) and will borrow a chaser. I am going to attempt to put this thing back together at the very least. If it doesn't go well... we'll see what happens.
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Mar 11, 2014 01:38
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I'm pretty sure seat belts have a lifetime warranty. But they won't replace them if the pretensioners are blown in a crash or something, though.
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Mar 11, 2014 03:44
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GOD IS BED posted:The NC2 tweaked the suspension I believe; the stock and sport suspension is a bit stiffer and sits a little bit lower. They still like to ride the bumpstops on extreme cornering, though. If you haven't already you should probably check Mnet, if there are common leaks you'll find them there. If there are no obvious holes a seal is leaking or a drain is plugged up. Make sure any drains you have are clear. Are you absolutely sure the window was all the way up?
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Mar 11, 2014 06:39
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Of course I'm in Cali working when this pops up: http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/4369270858.html
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Mar 11, 2014 13:04
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Larrymer posted:I'm pretty sure seat belts have a lifetime warranty. But they won't replace them if the pretensioners are blown in a crash or something, though. So, seat out of the car and the belt retractor is working perfectly all of a sudden. Like the ice has some sort of magical tension-repairing quality. Car is dried out, gonna run to a laundrymat and take care of the carpet after work. Should have her buttoned back up by tonight I hope.
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Mar 11, 2014 15:52
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So this K series swap thing looks interesting http://www.kmiata.com/about-us.html
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Mar 11, 2014 23:34
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:So this K series swap thing looks interesting When the swap alone is going to cost you $9k, it doesn't really seem worthwhile unless you're truly in love with a k-series or really really hate forced induction.
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Mar 11, 2014 23:39
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So during my winter timing belt maintenance I seem to have lost the nut for the bolt the power steering pump pivots on, and broke half of the bolts holding the fans to the radiator. Can I just replace these with whatever proper thread pitch hardware I can find at Lowe's or are either of these areas where I should be getting OEM replacements?
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Mar 12, 2014 00:11
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Viper915 posted:So during my winter timing belt maintenance I seem to have lost the nut for the bolt the power steering pump pivots on, and broke half of the bolts holding the fans to the radiator. Can I just replace these with whatever proper thread pitch hardware I can find at Lowe's or are either of these areas where I should be getting OEM replacements? Zip tie that fan back into place dude.
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Mar 12, 2014 00:21
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Anyone here own a 2006 velocity red limited edition mx5? Send me a message! Mazda wants to borrow your car!
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Mar 12, 2014 00:54
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Hog Obituary posted:When the swap alone is going to cost you $9k, it doesn't really seem worthwhile unless you're truly in love with a k-series or really really hate forced induction. LS swaps are cheaper than that I think. Why bother with another 4cyl then, might as well go all out and actually have some torque.
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Mar 12, 2014 01:35
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With McTinkerson's help, I just put a deposit on a '97. I've got no idea what packages are on it, but between my parts pile I bet I can build an OK car. Stock suspension, gold wheels and newish top, it looks like. Worst damage seems to be a fender dent and some small rust inside the trunk. 
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Mar 12, 2014 01:46
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I've got a flashing (but currently solid) CEL on my '97 and it's running like poo poo. Backstory which provides context to what may have caused this problem: I couldn't get to my oil filter or get good leverage on my drain plug for an oil change, so I brought it to my friend's work at Jiffy Lube (yeah, yeah, I figured I could do it this once since it was my friend. I wish I was right). Oil change done, drive home. Find out that the doofus left the oil cap on that little shelf next to the hood latch and I now have about .25 quarts of oil all over my engine bay. Frickin' wow. I bought a can of engine degreaser today and let it do its thing for 15 minutes and lightly hosed down the engine bay. I go for a test drive to burn off any residue and water and about three miles in, the CEL comes and starts flashing at me and the car starts running super lovely. Really crappy idle, absolutely no power during acceleration. Pull over and try pulling the plugs to see if I have a spark issue, but plug 1 and 4 are really in there and the block is too hot. 2 and 3 spark wells look dry. (note, I'm not that mechanically inclined, I'm just checking for things that I suspect could be an issue) I make the decision to limp it back home and now I'm waiting for the engine bay to cool so I can get all the plugs out. I also have an OBD2 reader on the way to pull the code(s). Here is a video of what my engine sounds like now, there is a very abnormal and distinct click coming from what sounds like the coil pack:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0R86wKWLbbg Like I mentioned, I'm not mechanically-savvy, so if you recognize what's going on here, I'd really appreciate knowing what you think it is and what steps I'd have to take to remedy it. I'm doing some research myself until the scanner gets here, and it sounds like I may have killed my coil pack during the cleaning and I really shouldn't have limped it back and will have to have it towed to a shop.  EDIT gently caress me, I think I got it  Found this end on the spark plug wire that connects to the coil pack jam packed with poo poo. Cleaned it out, then flogged the hell out of my car and got no hesitation and my idle has smoothed out real nice. Maybe the combined oil spill/cleaning sent all that crap into it. well poo poo, uhh, I guess that solves that AF fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Mar 12, 2014 |
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Mar 12, 2014 02:51
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leica posted:LS swaps are cheaper than that I think. Why bother with another 4cyl then, might as well go all out and actually have some torque. Hahahahahahahahahahahaha
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Mar 12, 2014 03:13
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leica posted:LS swaps are cheaper than that I think. Why bother with another 4cyl then, might as well go all out and actually have some torque. You're forgetting trans, diff, etc. etc. You need to beef up just about everything related to the driveline. The full kit from Flyin Miata, without engine, is well into the teens give or take some stuff, and then you add suspension and brakes. Since I live in California and have a 2000 I've given up on any engine swap fantasies. Once my engine a/o supercharger takes a poo poo I'm not sure what I'll do. AF: You probably have spark leaking from the coil pack or wires. If you look at it in darker ambient light you may be able to see where it's jumping from/to. Joe Mama fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Mar 12, 2014 |
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Mar 12, 2014 03:20
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Hog Obituary posted:When the swap alone is going to cost you $9k, it doesn't really seem worthwhile unless you're truly in love with a k-series or really really hate forced induction. It all depends on the final price, I saw $5k being thrown around on the thread on miataturbo and $1-2k for the longblock. 240whp naturally aspirated with basic bolt ons sounds pretty appealing.
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Mar 12, 2014 03:31
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I said it on MT and I'll say it here: the swap is going to cost about $7-8k. I think it's pretty neat, but it hasn't been run into the ground by a dozen of fast guys and I really don't want to pay to be a beta tester for someone. I think I'll eventually have TSE build me a 0 point PT* motor and swap in a 6-speed and 4.3 rear end.
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Mar 12, 2014 03:38
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Stolennosferatu posted:Anyone here own a 2006 velocity red limited edition mx5? Send me a message! Mazda wants to borrow your car! I saw a couple on CL the other night. One has 500 miles or something like that on it and the dude wants 40k. Ell Oh Ell.
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Mar 12, 2014 03:40
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crutt posted:Of course I'm in Cali working when this pops up: http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/4369270858.html Crutt you could always leave me a pile of money and have me buy you a Miata.
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Mar 12, 2014 03:54
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So if I was moving to say, Florida by the end of the month. And oddly wanted a miata because they are so practical for a father. What are the odds I could find a reliable running one for 2500 bucks or less? I've always loved these stupid little cars. Tons of fun to drive. Plus we have a "family" vehicle so its just my to and from work daily driver for 6 or so months til I buy something "adult" and turn whatever I buy into a toy. Not really concerned on the year. Would prefer it to be a non popup headlight model. So what, 97 and newer? FT Myers area btw. EbolaIvory fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Mar 12, 2014 |
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Mar 12, 2014 05:06
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Next to zero. NBs can be had for $4k, but $2.5k is really really really pushing it. $2.5k will get you a 1.6L car with some bad paint or a sketchy 1.8L NA.
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Mar 12, 2014 05:12
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Phone posted:Next to zero. NBs can be had for $4k, but $2.5k is really really really pushing it. Bad paint? Long as its mechanically ok I dont care if it looks like poo poo. Hell I'll rattle can it for all I care. I just need a drivetrain that runs and isnt rusted to poo poo. Is the 1.6 really that bad? I dont seem to remember them being totally totally awful. And im not totally objecting to the pre 97s. I just prefer non popup headlights.
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Mar 12, 2014 05:13
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