|
hellfaucet posted:54% Wheat My wheat ale was: 1.058 OG For 5.5 gallons in the fermenter 5.5 lbs 2 row 5 lbs white wheat malt .5 lb 20L crystal 1 lb rice hulls Mashed at 151 F I think. ~30 IBU from centennial and saaz during the boil 1.5 liter starter of Wyeast 1010, fermented down to 1.010 in 10 days. 3 days dry hopping with 1 ounce of Citra pellets.
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 20:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 15:12 |
|
|
Whilst drinking last night at the grand opening of our first and only LHBS (yay!), I mentioned that I was going to be getting into kegging very soon and one of the local homebrew superstars told me to get sanke kegs instead of ball/pinlock because they're easier to come by in our area, easier to maintain, less parts, etc. Anyone want to confirm/deny this? I've just always heard "buy ball lock or nothing" on most forums.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 20:42
|
|
|
fullroundaction posted:I'm really bad at turning out a complex / farmy / funky end product so I think I'm going to just go back to throwing a bag of lacto at things I want sour in a few months and then just riding the cake for a year+. Quick turnarounds on things like a Gose or b.weisse are all I really want anyway. Gose and BW are NOT quick turn arounds. Sure, you can make something sour-punch-kids level of acidity in a couple of weeks, but the acidity vs yeast vs 'green beer' need time to mellow and create something enjoyable; that is just for sour-mashing - pitch lacto? it's going to be 6 months. fullroundaction posted:Whilst drinking last night at the grand opening of our first and only LHBS (yay!), I mentioned that I was going to be getting into kegging very soon and one of the local homebrew superstars told me to get sanke kegs instead of ball/pinlock because they're easier to come by in our area, easier to maintain, less parts, etc. Anyone want to confirm/deny this? I use pinlocks because they were $20 cheaper than ball locks. I've seen a few homebrewers using sanke kegs. Nothing 'too' crazy. Glottis posted:This weekend I'm planning to make a Berlinerweisse with the sour in mash tun / use grain hulls to inoculate method. Does anyone here have personal experience with that? I'm fully aware that there's a decent chance I'll end up making something that smells like vomit. My advice: Keep O2 out of your mash as much as possible. Everyone I've talked to that has done a sour mash and it went "raw" they checked it ALOT and/or didn't cover it with celo wrap/a lid.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 21:01
|
|
|
Jacobey000 posted:My advice: Keep O2 out of your mash as much as possible. Everyone I've talked to that has done a sour mash and it went "raw" they checked it ALOT and/or didn't cover it with celo wrap/a lid. What do you mean by "raw"? I've got a sour mash I'm about to bottle and it tastes alright-ish but still smells pretty terrible. Not like vomit, but definitely off. I think "sour" is the best way I can describe it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 21:18
|
|
|
@Jacobey000 thanks for the Funk advice, I'll definitely try using my bugs a bit differently. I'm going to have to disagree about the BW and Gose though. To me they're both just German wheat beers that happen to be sour (and one is salty) and that's about it. Now it could be that I've had more homebrew versions than commercial ones so I'm not the best judge of the style guidelines, but once I've got a good lacto pitch going (which does take 4-6 months straight from a bag) I can turn out new batches once a month without the need to put any extra age on them. Could just be a personal preference too. I like to drink wheats as fresh as possible in most cases.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 23:23
|
|
|
Yeah, no you are totally right. I was speaking to starting at 0. e: ieatsoap6 posted:What do you mean by "raw"? I've got a sour mash I'm about to bottle and it tastes alright-ish but still smells pretty terrible. Not like vomit, but definitely off. I think "sour" is the best way I can describe it. I mean, like vomit, sulfur, any kind of scent that makes you wish you hadn't put your face in that general area. I guess I should use more accurate words than flowery language when describing - sorry about that. Jacobey000 fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Mar 16, 2014 |
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 00:17
|
|
|
So is Beersmith 2.2 broken? I put together a recipe for a lambic and the style sliders say that it is 1.010 og and brewtoad says 1.046 for the same recipe. Also any of you guys aging in better bottles? I figure I will be aging this lambic for at least a year, so I am guessing I probably want glass?
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 01:18
|
|
|
Do you have your equipment setup in beersmith correctly?
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 01:27
|
|
|
Jacobey000 posted:
Yeah, I was planning on doing the plastic wrap thing. Ideally I'd have some sort of fixture that slides in my mash tun.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 02:39
|
|
|
bengy81 posted:So is Beersmith 2.2 broken? I put together a recipe for a lambic and the style sliders say that it is 1.010 og and brewtoad says 1.046 for the same recipe. Sounds like you have it set to extract not all grain in beersmith E: I age my sours in better bottles
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 07:09
|
|
|
wildfire1 posted:Sounds like you have it set to extract not all grain in beersmith Yep, thats exactly what the problem was. So how do you do your fermentation? Do you start off with your bugs or do you do a clean ferment with a neutral yeast and add your bugs when you are done? Thinking right now I will use half a pack of US-05 and then rack onto cherries in a week or two and add white labs sour mix 1 at that point is this a good idea or a bsd one?
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 08:24
|
|
|
bengy81 posted:Yep, thats exactly what the problem was. In my experience you want to start fermentation with the bugs so they can have access to the sugars in the wort and start growing. Also adding fruit after a week is way to early. Especially if you're adding alot. Saccharomyces will ferment those sugars quickly and produce enough alcohol to drastically slow or even stop the bacteria from doing its thing. Add the fruit after the beer matures and seems almost ready.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 08:49
|
|
|
WAIL posted:In my experience you want to start fermentation with the bugs so they can have access to the sugars in the wort and start growing. Seconding all of this. Pitch the bugs early, rack onto fruit late in the game.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 15:05
|
|
|
hellfaucet posted:Seconding all of this. Pitch the bugs early, rack onto fruit late in the game. What do you guys mean by "bugs?"
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 15:08
|
|
|
Martello posted:What do you guys mean by "bugs?" They are just misspelling it. They mean "drugs". edit: To get things to sour, you pitch wild bacteria and yeast, which are commonly called "bugs"
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 15:22
|
|
|
Okay, that's what I figured. There's so much lingo, it's like joining the Army!
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 16:11
|
|
|
Did you see the new homebrewer's training film on acronyms yet?
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 16:40
|
|
|
I am back with two more newbie questions for the thread. 1) I have my third batch in primary right now. My OG was 1.060/1.061. According to this calculator brewing with Safale-04, my final gravity should get down to 1.017. My beer has been fermenting in a temperature-controlled 63F. I checked the gravity after a week when airlock activity stopped and it was 1.020. I checked again two and four days later and it is stable at 1.020. Is the .003 difference within a normal attenuation range? Or did the fermentation get stuck a little before finishing? 2) In about a month I am flying across the country to visit family. I was trying to think of a way to take some bottles with me, but my assumption is that the lack of pressurization in the storage compartment of a plane would lead to lots of broken bottles?
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 17:49
|
|
|
Capt. Sticl posted:I am back with two more newbie questions for the thread. 1. That's not too unusual. That's small enough to be a quirk of the hydrometer or just a bit more unfermentables than expected or something like that. What style was it? I've found that the unfermentable problem crops up a lot in stouts especially. 2. I had no problem putting a few bottles in checked luggage when flying a few months back. Honestly I'd expect the treatment the bag goes through before and after the flight would be more risky. Make sure they're well padded and in a plastic bag (in case they do break) and you should be fine.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 18:00
|
|
|
It isn't really any particular style. Despite having no experience/talent/etc. I thought it would be fun to make a recipe from scratch based on nothing but my own whims. But thanks for the response, I wasn't sure how accurate I should be expecting a calculator like that to be.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 18:06
|
|
|
Capt. Sticl posted:It isn't really any particular style. Despite having no experience/talent/etc. I thought it would be fun to make a recipe from scratch based on nothing but my own whims. But thanks for the response, I wasn't sure how accurate I should be expecting a calculator like that to be. I think those calculators are generally a bit on the optimistic side. A .003 difference could easily be from a combination of temperature, yeast health, unfermentables, or any number of other things.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 18:16
|
|
|
Got to play with our new refractometer yesterday  Let me know if these numbers seem typical in y'all's experience. All measurements taken in Brix and converted to SG. Target 1.049 @ 70% efficiency Mash First Runnings: 21.5 brix / 1.090 sg Pre-Boil (6.25g): 11.5 brix / 1.046 sg Post-Boil (5g): 12.5 brix / 1.052 sg I would have assumed more gravity points would have been gained after all that evap but I guess not.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 18:30
|
|
|
That's around what I get, usually a .04-.08 gain during my boil.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 19:13
|
|
|
Capt. Sticl posted:2) In about a month I am flying across the country to visit family. I was trying to think of a way to take some bottles with me, but my assumption is that the lack of pressurization in the storage compartment of a plane would lead to lots of broken bottles? What I have done successfully in the past was to package beer in some repurposed 1L soda bottles. These were packaged in the center of the luggage, surrounded by clothes and other soft things, and they made it safely. I like plastic better than glass for this purpose because it has at least some resilience to jars and pokes, and if it breaks, while you have beer-smelling clothes, at least you don't have shards of glass everywhere.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 19:14
|
|
|
My chiller split open :/. Guess I am going to be waiting a while for this batch to cool down now...
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 21:11
|
|
|
Capt. Sticl posted:2) In about a month I am flying across the country to visit family. I was trying to think of a way to take some bottles with me, but my assumption is that the lack of pressurization in the storage compartment of a plane would lead to lots of broken bottles? I brought a 12 pack (individually wrapped in clothes and stuff) on a plane once, there were zero issues.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 21:43
|
|
|
Those of you who are making sour beers, if I am also looking to influence the flavor with a Belgian yeast for example, I'd want to still pitch that Belgian yeast before the bugs, yes? I can't think of a situation where I would want to utilize the Belgian yeast after the lactobacillus given the lacto's propensity to clean out the majority of the sugars. If I'm going to add in, say, peaches and apricots toward the end of the fermentation, to me, it makes sense to use the Belgian sacc yeast first to let those flavors and aromas develop, then drop the lactobacillus and let it munch on the fruit in the last month or so before kegging. If my line of thinking is off in a logical way here, I would really like to know now, As I am crafting a peach and apricot flavored tart saison that I would like to brew in the next month or so.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 22:53
|
|
|
If I'm not mistaken lacto can only ferment about 10% (at most) of the available sugars in most homebrew applications so you always have to use sacc and/or brett, and yeah either pitch them at the same time or sacc/brett first. No reason to give lacto a head start and it can potentially mess up your ph if you do. I know 100% lacto beers are possible, but that's outside the scope of this conversation. E: looks like my info is slightly out of date: http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2012/06/100-lactobacillus-berliner-weisse.html?m=1 quote:Lactobacillus is an interesting organism. It is known for its rapid fermentation in dairy products, producing all the required acidity for yogurt in just a few hours at high temperature (115-120 F). The problem with using Lacto is the huge range the genus comprises. For example, the strain sold by Wyeast (5335) is only capable of fermenting about 10-12% of the carbohydrates in a standard wort, not nearly enough attenuation for something resembling beer. Luckily White Labs’ 677 strain is capable of producing an enzyme which allows it to ferment maltose, maltotriose, and raffinose, ensuring a dry finished beer without aid. In addition to lactic acid, WLP677 also produces both alcohol and carbon-dioxide, so the result should be similar to a beer fermented with yeast. fullroundaction fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Mar 16, 2014 |
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 23:20
|
|
|
Capt. Sticl posted:I am back with two more newbie questions for the thread. As others have said .003 is nothing to worry about. As for packing, you have a few options. I like using a vacuum sealer to package my stuff; the bags are pretty robust and holds everything together. Barring that you could get some plastic beer bottles for transport. I used something similar for a trip to the beach and I was pretty happy with how they performed.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2014 01:44
|
|
|
Midorka posted:I plan on starting small 1.5 gallon batches on my stove for doing extract SMaSH beers to learn what each hop tastes like intimately. I plan to bottle carb in 32 ounce growlers. I'm used to 5 and 10 gallon batches so I'd like to know if there are any complications doing batches this small. Wait, can you bottle carb in a growler? I thought they weren't rated for that kind of pressure. I only ask because I looked into it a while back and it seemed the prevailing answer was no. It doesn't seem to have raised any eyebrows in the last two pages, so maybe it's fine, but I wouldn't want you to bomb a growler or something, that's all. Skitz fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Mar 17, 2014 |
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2014 06:03
|
|
|
Skitz posted:Wait, can you bottle carb in a growler? I thought they weren't rated for that kind of pressure. I figure that if they can handle pressure from the tap it shouldn't be much different, but I'd like to hear input on it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2014 06:15
|
|
|
HBT thread about it I also recall some chatter about the screw tops leaking from the pressure and producing undercarbed or flat beer. Again, I'm very much a novice and I don't know any of this for sure, but I'd be remiss if I didn't at least bring it to your attention.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2014 06:30
|
|
|
Skitz posted:HBT thread about it Thanks for the information. I think I may try it once anyway, carb to 2.1 volumes or something and drink sooner than later? I dunno. Maybe I'll just buy a few swing tops for the small-batch stuff.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2014 07:29
|
|
|
I've made kombucha in growlers before. Fairly carbonated stuff too. Definitely more carbbed than your average stout. I've just used your basic run of the mill .5gl brown jug that comes with a screw top. I've also used mason jars too to carb sodas and or kombucha or kefir. Never had any issues. I'd imagine if you went the mason jar route you could wrap it in something impermeable to UV light as to not skunk your beer. For the mason jars I've done two types of kombucha. The first I let the mother ferment all of the sugars in the tea (took about a month) then added my fruit juice and used the residual sugar to carb (Basically bottle priming). This gave me shelf stable kombucha. The other way was just by tasting the acidity and when it got somewhere I liked (~2 weeks) I added my juice and allowed it to prime then fridged it once the mason jar lids started to buckle from the pressure. Edit - I realize this is very anecdotal and there's a good chance my growlers might not be the same as your growlers. ymmv Toxx fucked around with this message at 07:48 on Mar 17, 2014 |
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2014 07:36
|
|
|
Spoiler alert, trying to cool boiling water in a growler isn't not really the same as a borosilicate Erlenmeyer flask. Woops!
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2014 14:52
|
|
|
Anyone have any tips on small 1 to 2 gallon batch brewing? I think it makes more sense for me to start brewing smaller batches so I can experiment more.
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2014 14:54
|
|
|
Jacobey000 posted:Spoiler alert, trying to cool boiling water in a growler isn't not really the same as a borosilicate Erlenmeyer flask. Woops! Trying to picture the scene now... Why in the world? hellfaucet fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Mar 17, 2014 |
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2014 14:58
|
|
|
hellfaucet posted:Trying to picture the scene now... Why in the world? Was attempting to continue growing a starter. Poured boiling water from a tea kettle into a growler on top of DME, turned on the cold water to cool and immediately heard cracking. Laughed and shook my head at how stupid I had been. Luckily it didn't split completely so I just dumped it back on top of the yeast cake in the flask it had been in. Jerome Louis posted:Anyone have any tips on small 1 to 2 gallon batch brewing? I think it makes more sense for me to start brewing smaller batches so I can experiment more. Split batches over anything else. Boil 4 gallons once instead of 1 gallon four times. Get a small autosiphon. Buy apple juice in glass 1 gallon jugs b/c it's about the same price as buying a 'new' 1gal jug (plus: you get to make cider first!). Fruit is your friend when experimenting. Have fun. Jacobey000 fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Mar 17, 2014 |
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2014 16:20
|
|
|
Are there any threads or goon approved references on distilling?
|
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2014 19:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 15:12 |
|
|
Ceros_X posted:Are there any threads or goon approved references on distilling? No, because home distilling is illegal in pretty much all countries. If there was one it'd be somewhere in TCC but honestly, I don't think any goon really does it if the did wouldn't post online about doing it because of the massive risks. Some countries you can register to get a permit and such but then you got to pay duty on the alcohol you distilled so it's kind of not really home distilling and more a business. Only country I can think of that it is legal to home distil is New Zealand. D: I'm guessing you're American, so seriously unless you're talking about setting up a distillion business I wouldn't do it as ATF cracks down real hard on people who do it. That's why a lot of the time its done up in the mountains by hillbilly types making moonshine with a dismantle setup. 
Fluo fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Mar 17, 2014 |
|
#
?
Mar 17, 2014 21:31
|
|
