|
Really, Salmon Rose? Looking at the color online, I would have never guessed something that pink.
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 09:49
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 11:00 |
|
|
plester1 posted:Really, Salmon Rose? Looking at the color online, I would have never guessed something that pink. Ugh, I was looking at their online paint chart which is 100% wrong or at least super inaccurate. The actual name of the Vallejo paint is Tan Yellow, ie: German Tank color. I could also be wildly wrong, but it could also be an old GW paint that I cant remember the name of. Edit: My buddy who is a better painter than me says he thinks it's the Vallejo/Panzer Aces British Tank Crew and British Tank Crew Highlight maybe also with a highlight of something like GW Ungor flesh. But yeah, it's Ocher. El Estrago Bonito fucked around with this message at 10:03 on Mar 15, 2014 |
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 09:52
|
|
|
Bit late to cat chat, but remember those little bastards will be able to find the worst thing to play with so keep your stuff contained and out of their reach. I came home a few months ago to discover my conversion project of the month scattered around the floor and across my desk with the general area being a mess. There wasn't even a way for my cat to see a good place to jump to. He apparently just did a blind leap of faith up, knocking poo poo everywhere. And why? Because he somehow saw 2 inches of guitar string sticking out of my bit box he just -had- to play with. And don't let the cat drink your rinse water. Don't remember which goon posted that one, but it didn't end well...
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 09:53
|
|
|
Rapey Joe Stalin posted:You know, painting yellow kind of sucks. I had like a 2 or 3 day stint where I seriously considered starting an Imperial Fists army for a change up and challenge. Daler Downey FW Ink sprayed through an airbrush on white primer is a serious miracle if you need a yellow base. You could probably even do white primer and then a black/brown prewash for shading. The ink takes a while to dry and needs a gloss coat to seal it but the results were amazing. It worked so well I plan on going back and trying their other ink colors because they have some killer pearl and metallic colors. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 10:26 on Mar 15, 2014 |
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 10:23
|
|
|
I think I noticed the same thing with my FW-ink yellow Tau. I primed white and sprayed yellow ontop. What a fast and easy way to get a bright yellow mini. When I painted Ceramite White ontop of the yellow I noticed it started eating into the yellow a bit. Maybe my brush was too wet and the ink was not dry, or my white has some acid in it. A quick matte vernish should protect the ink and stop this problem I guess. The ink itself sucks though if you are trying to fix touchups. Worse than GW Sunburst with it's inability to cover, but that is yellow for you. I say if you want to touch up hit it with white then the yellow.  
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 10:30
|
|
will blow your mind.
|
Pacheeco posted:I had like a 2 or 3 day stint where I seriously considered starting an Imperial Fists army for a change up and challenge. Daler Downey FW Ink sprayed through an airbrush on white primer is a serious miracle if you need a yellow base. You could probably even do white primer and then a black/brown prewash for shading. The ink takes a while to dry and needs a gloss coat to seal it but the results were amazing. It worked so well I plan on going back and trying their other ink colors because they have some killer pearl and metallic colors. White primer followed by yellow ink, a sepia wash and then a yellow highlight works pretty drat well IMHO. It's how I did the yellows here (this is a bad pic):  Yellow is also one of the areas Army Painter is quite good at. You have to matte varnish the gently caress out of everything you use that stuff on though.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 10:38
|
|
|
That warlock is oldschool as gently caress, aside from all the metal on the weapons and horns. Hunter Green->Neon Green gradient or go home, sir. 
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 14:07
|
|
|
Dumb question - how long do cans of spray paint (Duplicolor Auto Primer, specifically) last before quality starts to degrade? Like, if I have a can that I bought 2 years ago, will it still work as well as a new can?
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 15:49
|
|
|
Rapey Joe Stalin posted:You know, painting yellow kind of sucks. Would empty quote if I could. I don't even paint much yellow but I paint it often and it's a bloody nightmare every single time. Then again, I'm one of those insane people who paints yellow over black because it ended up too bright over white. That probably counts as some form of self-harming.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 18:49
|
|
|
Pacheeco posted:Vallejo Surface Primer (fine acrylic paint in general) isn't as sturdy on metal models as rattle can primer (personally I still use rattle primer on metal models, it's just easier) but once you get your paint coats down and a gloss coat and then a matte coat the entire thing will be rock solid unless you constantly bang your metal models together or drop them on hard surfaces. Try to avoid handling the primered models with your bare hands; VSP doesn't get a super great grip on those sharp points and edges and your natural hand sweat and oils doesn't help. You can also do primer > base coat > gloss > layers (finish painting) > gloss > matte. I did this with a metal Terminator Chaplain and that thing is bulletproof now. If you do this you should let the first gloss coat completely cure overnight before you move on. I tried to rush a paint job over "dry" Future once and it didn't end well. Awesome, thanks for the advice. Will painting over future still give the layer a chance to bite? Or does the paint sort of bead like it does on a naked metal mini?
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 19:00
|
|
|
Grabbed some Duplicolor grey primer at the hardware store earlier, since that was basically all they had. There was also a colorless primer specifically for plastics and it was 2 euro cheaper, but I'd never heard of it before so went with the safe option. Now if only it weren't so loving windy here tonight, I could prime my remaining test models on the balcony 
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 19:04
|
|
|
Sykic posted:Would empty quote if I could. Paint white, paint yellow, was with a dirty yellow or orange or even sepia/brown to take the edge off.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 19:10
|
|
|
Dr. Lenin posted:Dumb question - how long do cans of spray paint (Duplicolor Auto Primer, specifically) last before quality starts to degrade? Like, if I have a can that I bought 2 years ago, will it still work as well as a new can? Sykic posted:Would empty quote if I could. The method I mentioned above with the yellow ink is actually how the GW studio team did bulk yellow for a lot of the late 90's to mid 00's. Their version was essentially prime white, lay down ~3-4 coats of yellow ink, thinned down chestnut ink into the cracks and finally matte varnish to kill the shine. Sometimes they do a very thin Yellow/White or Yellow/Bone highlight but only on the front rank guys. With the new GW line over black primer, I'd do a base coat of either Reaper HD Golden Brown highlghted in a progressive mixture to GW Ungor Flesh. Then I'd do a highlight or heavy drybrush of Dorn Yellow. Then a coat or possibly two of Lamenters Yellow and finally a light application of Seraphim Sepia into the cracks to get some transition back after the glaze. You could also probably get away with just white primer, Vallejo or Coat D Arms (my fave) Yellow Ink and the GW Yellow shade. Maybe a very light use of Sepia ink cut with future shine to get some deep cracks. Pigments are also stupid easy to use and do yellow quite well.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 19:10
|
|
|
parabolic posted:Awesome, thanks for the advice. Will painting over future still give the layer a chance to bite? Or does the paint sort of bead like it does on a naked metal mini? I've never had a problem putting either acrylic paint or wash on top of Future. I actually prefer painting on a gloss coat when I can. It really helps the paint flow smoothly off the brush and helps it settle evenly.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 19:17
|
|
|
Havent had much time to paint recently, but saw this and just HAD to have a go at it. Took quite a bit of cleaning up and work to try and hide some joins, and I've got about halfway through the skin. Going to experiment with grinding up some oil pastels for making some skin shade pigments.  
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 20:13
|
|
|
Holy poo poo his power level is over 9000!
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 20:26
|
|
|
Simple green: safe for stripping resin (specifically privateer press colossal)?
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 20:26
|
|
|
I recently saw a WIP/tutorial of someone painting the floor of a large diorama piece in green marble. He then painted a large skull decal over it. Has anyone seen it/have any idea what I'm talking about? I can't find it again. It was a space marine diorama of some kind, looked like it had a number of the imperium scenery pieces on it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 21:32
|
|
|
parabolic posted:Simple green: safe for stripping resin (specifically privateer press colossal)? Yes (I've done it).
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 21:33
|
|
|
The method I've been using on my latest test model was a white undercoat, a base of Averland yellow, then Reikland wash in the panel lines. After that I painted the secondary colours before coming back to clean up with more Averland. Then I began layering Yriel yellow. From a distance the colour is what I want, but after two coats it still looks lovely close up. I'll continue layering the Yriel on and see how it goes. I do think my W&N size 1 brush might be on the small side for basecoating a marine though. Perhaps I'd see smoother coverage with a size 2. My next method to test would be to take a white undercoat, base it in Yriel, then seal it with gloss before applying shading and secondary colours. Then rely on some mineral spirits to clean the model up again. Not sure how well that would work to remove excess wash or clumsy paint dabs though. Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Mar 15, 2014 |
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 21:47
|
|
|
Rapey Joe Stalin posted:My next method to test would be to take a white undercoat, base it in Yriel, then seal it with gloss before applying shading and secondary colours. Then rely on some mineral spirits to clean the model up again. Not sure how well that would work to remove excess wash or clumsy paint dabs though. Is your pot of Yriel yellow as horrible as mine? I try to use mine and unless I thin it absolutely perfectly its brushstroke city since it won't self-level at all.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 22:20
|
|
|
El Estrago Bonito posted:Barring catastrophic failure (IE you haven't been storing it on your porch) it should be fine. I have GW cans that still have the old style can with the evil face on it and those date from the mid to late 90's (goblin green and ultramarine blue primer specifically RIP). Test spray some sprue before hand just to check, but most cans of spray paint are mean't to have as a tool that you use repeatedly over time and therefor have decently long shelf life. If it's bad you'll know because it will skunk (turn very powdery) or drip (come out almost like a gloopy spatter) due to either the paint or the propellant being gone/bad. Sweet, thanks. And now I just realized when I tried testing the can this morning I forgot to clear the nozzle. Derp. Fake James fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Mar 15, 2014 |
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 22:45
|
|
|
serious gaylord posted:Havent had much time to paint recently, but saw this and just HAD to have a go at it. But what about the pants?
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 22:48
|
|
|
So I just used Agrax Earthshade for the first time, since I only recently ran out of Devlan Mud and for the most part make my own washes. Holy crap this stuff is way better than Devlan Mud ever was, and when that came out we thought it was Liquid Jesus.
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 23:35
|
|
|
Is the skin a bit much? I like it, but I would like a second opinion.   
|
|
#
?
Mar 15, 2014 23:54
|
|
|
I dont think it's too much in terms of being too purple or to wacky, chaos is chaos after all. I think the first guy's face is a little overhighlighted though.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 00:00
|
|
|
Except for digging up the primed bolters I have somewhere, I'm pretty happy with these guys! It's a standard that feels like something I can reliably replicate, as no one step took forever to do. I think I played with the settings in picasa a bit much.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 00:02
|
|
|
JoshTheStampede posted:So I just used Agrax Earthshade for the first time, since I only recently ran out of Devlan Mud and for the most part make my own washes. Yeah the new washes are generally pretty strong and a general improvement over the old ones.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 00:40
|
|
|
Under 15 posted:Is your pot of Yriel yellow as horrible as mine? I try to use mine and unless I thin it absolutely perfectly its brushstroke city since it won't self-level at all. Sounds familiar. Maybe it would help to mix it with some medium on the palette. Aside, if you think that Agrax is good, try out Carroburg Crimson. That stuff is spectacular on reds.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 01:15
|
|
|
Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Sounds familiar. Maybe it would help to mix it with some medium on the palette. My Tyranid army's secondary color is Screamer Pink with Carroburg Crimson wash. The Carroburg wash is seriously great on pinks and reds. Haven't had a chance to experiment washing over yellow or orange yet though.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 01:19
|
|
|
Reikland seems really good on yellow.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 01:20
|
|
|
Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Reikland seems really good on yellow. It really is.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 03:37
|
|
|
Do any of you have experience of using citadel washes over a gloss varnish? I'm thinking of trying to do an oil wash but with the acrylic wash.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 09:06
|
|
|
Rapey Joe Stalin posted:Do any of you have experience of using citadel washes over a gloss varnish? I'm thinking of trying to do an oil wash but with the acrylic wash. I've done acrylic wash on gloss; it doesn't work exactly the same as pin washing/oil washing. GW wash (straight out of the bottle) doesn't have the same capillary properties oil washes do. The gloss varnish will definitely help the wash flow better but it won't flow completely clean leaving your raised areas wash free and it won't magically pin line your crevices with a single brush poke. The main advantage of washing over a gloss coat is you can do cleanup with some windex or paint thinner and a q-tip on the wash right after it dries and as long as your q-tip isn't soaked and you don't press with a ton of force, your undercoat will be completely unharmed. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 09:25 on Mar 16, 2014 |
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 09:20
|
|
|
That's what I was hoping to hear. Being able to apply Yriel through an airbrush and then shade with Reikland afterward would be a huge time saver. I've got three coats of Yriel over Averland now and It is still horrifically blotchy close up.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 10:05
|
|
|
Anyone have a list of sites/companies/what have you that do commission painting?I need to compare prices.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 17:44
|
|
|
I designed a base: And cast it up:  Worked out really well, I may make more.  WIP Droidikas to go up against my Jedi. Next step guns on their arms! Luebbi posted:I finished painting my Stormwall today... without an airbrush. It took me almost a month, and to be honest I found a few mistakes that I just can't be arsed to fix anymore. Painting something this huge with normal brushes was like a special form of torture. At least I learned a lot about wet blending in the process. Still, I'm coming close to a fully painted collection, which is it's own kind of reward. Looking good! Time to buy more models 
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 18:25
|
|
|
That base is really nice, actually! If you made a set you could probably sell em for a few bucks, so long as they look that good. 5 more Sternguard for my Ultramarines, using varying marks of power armor. From left to right: Mk4, Prototype Mk7, Mk8, Mk1, Mk2       The big Judge Dredd-esque shoulderpad on the prototype Mk7 dude was really fun to paint, as were the shades on the Thunder Armor guy. I wish I did a better blend on the lightning claw, but eh, something to keep in mind for when I do assault Terminators at some point. The guy in prototype Mk7 armor is the only model in the army not sculpted by Jes Goodwin; I think it's a Bob Naismith or Mark Copplestone sculpt.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 19:03
|
|
|
SRM posted:5 more Sternguard for my Ultramarines, using varying marks of power armor. From left to right: You've charged my face, consolidated onto my memories of childhood, and captured the victory point objective of my heart.
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 19:17
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 14, 2024 11:00 |
|
|
Guys I started to convert an HQ for my plague dudes and, did I.. did I add too much flesh? Also I ran out of Agrax and decided to try Druchi on it. How's it look?  
|
|
#
?
Mar 16, 2014 21:07
|
|
