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Panaflex posted:Technically pre 1976 vehicles are not "exempt" but they are not required to be inspected. CARB states they should still have all original (if any) emissions equipment installed. First, I realized I said the 7.3 in my last post, but that'd be the diesel and not the gas 7.5/460ci I meant. Dumb fingers. I got the thing for free so the plan was, dump as much money into it as I'll get back from just scrapping it trying to get it running well enough to sell and if it wont pass smog, I'll at least break even. I'm at that point now so I'll be calling around to the junkyards tomorrow. If I had the time and didn't need the cash to put towards something that didn't get around 6mpg, I'd be selling it piecemeal because the entire drivetrain runs sweet other than emissions. The truck was in the family since it was brand new, so it'll be kinda sad seeing it go, but maybe someone will be able to keep their car living because of mine. Like donating organs.
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Apr 17, 2014 08:27
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poo poo, we had that happen to a chunk of CH-47 drive shaft. Had the thing strain-gaged to measure torque and it was in the calibration fixture and basically the fixture broke in the process of applying a load and we couldn't get the shaft out while it was still being loaded. Simplest thing to do turned out to be to get a bunch of heat guns and heat the shaft section up until the aluminum lost strength and twisted around like taffy. I should have gotten a picture of that while it was still around, no idea where it wound up.
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Apr 17, 2014 08:41
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   That's what happens when a truck's wheel explodes as it's driving past. The whole car was rammed against the kerb. There were chunks of alloy wheel and tyre in front of the building behind the car.
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Apr 17, 2014 09:20
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Slavvy posted:
Great, now I will NEVER be able to pass a truck in the Miata with the top down ever again without rolling up the window first. And people wonder why I advocate the "Hammer Down Passing Method". I need to bookmark that for the next time I get pulled for doing 90 while passing a truck.
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Apr 17, 2014 09:45
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Slavvy posted:
An old friend of mine used to be an HGV mechanic here in Scotland for Volvo/Scania. That picture would give him nightmares...
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Apr 17, 2014 09:47
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I have a
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Apr 17, 2014 09:50
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I used to work for a tech company that did stuff for Hannaford Supermarkets. They had these lovely metal Powervar UPS units under each lane. Under the belt. Where god knows what gets spilled on them. It was always sketchy when I would replace the battery and the thing would smoke check itself, with the customers in the checkout lane next to me looking at it like...huh, that's strange. I hated that job.
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Apr 17, 2014 13:13
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Slavvy posted:
Well that's nice. I'm already terrified of truck wheels after having a tire pop on a semi next to me while riding my motorcycle. Smell of burnt rubber and a thump to the chest help clear the sinuses in the morning and require a new pair of shorts.
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Apr 17, 2014 14:30
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Beach Bum posted:Great, now I will NEVER be able to pass a truck in the Miata with the top down ever again without rolling up the window first. And people wonder why I advocate the "Hammer Down Passing Method". Keep the windows down, if one blows like that, windows up just means you'll take a faceful of broken glass immediately followed by a giant hunk of rubber to grind it into your skin, instead of just the giant tire chunk. You're going to have a bad day either way but I'd rather not dig glass out of my skin for the next 6 months. I try not to hang out beside/behind semi trucks for a variety of reasons. It's much easier to end up in their blind spot, it usually means blocking a passing lane, you have much less maneuverability if something bad happens and less visibility so you can't see something happening as quickly in the first place, and you might get pancaked by a gator, too.
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Apr 17, 2014 15:04
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tater_salad posted:I spotted the failure Fixed that. gently caress a bunch of Cali. Send all those delicious non-rustbelt old cars out my way instead. 
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Apr 17, 2014 19:15
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kastein posted:I try not to hang out beside/behind semi trucks for a variety of reasons.
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Apr 17, 2014 19:20
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kastein posted:I try not to hang out beside/behind semi trucks for a variety of reasons. It's much easier to end up in their blind spot, it usually means blocking a passing lane, you have much less maneuverability if something bad happens and less visibility so you can't see something happening as quickly in the first place, and you might get pancaked by a gator, too. Especially once Ace gets his CDL.
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Apr 17, 2014 19:30
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DiggityDoink posted:That and my dad apparently repaired part of the emissions system using house plumbing. The guy said it was actually a brilliant hack but CA is anal about all of that system being stock. The crankcase recirculation hose on my car had a dry-rotted rubber fitting to connect the hose to the air filter. The piece was only available from Ford for like 85 dollars with a bunch of other junk like the PCV filter attached, so I made a little cylindrical mold and cast a new one out of black 2-part urethane rubber. The sperg at the e-test somehow figured out that it wasn't a stock part (too shiny, I guess) and failed me until I replaced it with the ~real thing~. Jerk. And guess what part of the car is starting to dry-rot again already!
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Apr 17, 2014 20:09
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Sagebrush posted:The crankcase recirculation hose on my car had a dry-rotted rubber fitting to connect the hose to the air filter. The piece was only available from Ford for like 85 dollars with a bunch of other junk like the PCV filter attached, so I made a little cylindrical mold and cast a new one out of black 2-part urethane rubber. The sperg at the e-test somehow figured out that it wasn't a stock part (too shiny, I guess) and failed me until I replaced it with the ~real thing~. Jerk. Buy another one, but only use it for inspections.
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Apr 17, 2014 20:20
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I had this happen with my focus idle air recirc pump or whatever crap emissions garbage hose it was. After a while they got lovely and would collapse on themselves or crack. Because I live in a slightly less poo poo state I was able to replace with 6" of rubber hose instead of the $80 ford part that still would rot if used.
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Apr 17, 2014 20:27
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Motronic posted:Yep. That's what I'm talking about. If your APC branded battery backup product retails for less than 5 figures it's probably no better than some no-name chinese brand. Ant it's almost certainly using the same batteries. This, we switched all our stuff (and our customers) to CyberPower. Cheap, works great, and they actually warranty their poo poo.
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Apr 18, 2014 03:18
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dietcokefiend posted:Well that's nice. I'm already terrified of truck wheels after having a tire pop on a semi next to me while riding my motorcycle. Smell of burnt rubber and a thump to the chest help clear the sinuses in the morning and require a new pair of shorts. Here ya go 
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Apr 18, 2014 04:32
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1997 Dodge Caravan. The left front strut tower rotted to the point of decapitation:  I wasn't about to even try putting it up on the lift to find out what else was wrong with it, this one is done for.
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Apr 18, 2014 06:26
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I'd imagine major parts like a subframe falling out if you put that on a post lift.
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Apr 18, 2014 07:32
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I got a good one today. Subtle though. Loader came in today, customer said that it was having steering issues. Road tech diagnosed it as a worn drive motor.  First we get it out of the machine. For those less familiar with hydraulics, the round bit sitting on top is what does the actual driving. Oil is directed into the ports in the centre, which forces out the rollers. They push against the lobes on the housing and you get rotation. They can also shift into "high gear" by shutting off oil flow to some ports; same amount of flow to fewer rollers = faster travel speed. From this distance everything looks fine.    It took us a couple minutes to notice this. You can just see tiny cracks running from some of the ports. They're pretty visible with the flash, but when I first looked I could barely see them. 6 out of 8 ports were cracked, most of those right from the centre all the way to the outside. Doesn't look like much, but under thousands of psi of oil pressure, that thing probably opened up to resemble an exploded pie chart. Hence the steering issue.
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Apr 18, 2014 08:13
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Motronic posted:Yep. That's what I'm talking about. If your APC branded battery backup product retails for less than 5 figures it's probably no better than some no-name chinese brand. Ant it's almost certainly using the same batteries. And if it retails for 5 figures or more, it's still using the same batteries, just lots more of them.
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Apr 18, 2014 12:46
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Root Bear posted:1997 Dodge Caravan. The left front strut tower rotted to the point of decapitation: http://www.dormanproducts.com/Pages/advancetraining/strut-tower-repair-cap-kits.html I don't even
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Apr 18, 2014 15:47
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Root Bear posted:1997 Dodge Caravan. The left front strut tower rotted to the point of decapitation: The scary part is that Dorman makes a patch/repair kit for this problem. It is a stamped sheetmetal strut tower replacement... and it attaches to the top of the tower. With 3 self tapping sheet metal screws and a dozen pop rivets. 
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Apr 18, 2014 15:50
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Hillridge posted:And if it retails for 5 figures or more, it's still using the same batteries, just lots more of them. Hey now, those batteries may have been QA'd, or passed QA! (Given from what I understand they're all made at a handful of factories, then at the end there is the official sticker person who adds the branding.)
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Apr 18, 2014 15:54
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Hillridge posted:And if it retails for 5 figures or more, it's still using the same batteries, just lots more of them. I was so hoping I was right, but I just checked and the "new" APC bigger stuff like the Symetras absolutely are using the same drat batteries. That's just shameful. I really thought I'd recalled them being built like proper datacenter UPSes. I'll stick with my Liebert NXes.
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Apr 18, 2014 16:30
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Motronic posted:Oh, but they fixed that! It's no longer a problem! MadScientistWorking fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Apr 18, 2014 |
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Apr 18, 2014 18:10
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kastein posted:The scary part is that Dorman makes a patch/repair kit for this problem. Slow is Fast posted:http://www.dormanproducts.com/Pages/advancetraining/strut-tower-repair-cap-kits.html I've installed plenty. They work like a band-aid on a gangrene limb.
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Apr 18, 2014 22:51
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kastein posted:The scary part is that Dorman makes a patch/repair kit for this problem. Looking through that website, it seems like Dorman specializes in making parts to fix things that break all the goddamned time.
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Apr 18, 2014 23:02
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A Melted Tarp posted:Looking through that website, it seems like Dorman specializes in making parts to fix things that break all the goddamned time. That seems like a pretty loving good business plan.
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Apr 18, 2014 23:06
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Couldn't you make a strut bar that runs the length of the car and bolts into the chassis? I'm so glad I tackled the rust on my Audi before it got worse 
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Apr 18, 2014 23:08
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A Melted Tarp posted:Looking through that website, it seems like Dorman specializes in making parts to fix things that break all the goddamned time. Oh, they do. The problem is that their execution and/or quality on some of the parts isn't really the best. Like, say, this one. Another example: I've recommended their XJ/MJ trans cooler lines to probably 50 people (part numbers 624-300, 624-301, and 624-334.) Then they changed chinesium suppliers and the quickdisconnect barbs are now misformed and require extensive cursing to seat, if they seat at all, and tend to pop back out when you need them most, so I don't recommend them anymore.
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Apr 18, 2014 23:11
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How to replace a  Don't know the car, looks like some sort of VAG.
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Apr 19, 2014 00:17
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Honestly I love that idea. You know how many times I've had a pinch weld rot out? Look ma, no pinch welds!
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Apr 19, 2014 00:19
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MadScientistWorking posted:No they fixed the problem where an inordinate amount of them failed early. Capacitor rot as a failure mode is incredibly common especially in older devices because of the inherent problems of having a device that relies on water to operate correctly. I just dealt with a 200V power supply that I assumed was going to catch on fire because my initial assumption was that the electrolytic capacitors were completely devoid of any water. That's...not how it works. Capacitors from like the 50's and poo poo have electrolyte that dried out after decades, but aluminum electrolytic capacitors are entirely sealed. Devices from a decade ago failed due to the "capacitor plague", where stolen (incomplete) electrolyte formulas were used by lovely no-name manufacturers. Over time, this bad electrolyte broke down and generated gas, causing the capacitors to vent. Other (good) capacitors fail due to being exposed to temperatures or voltages they are not rated for, which can also cause them to break down and vent. But they aren't filled with water. They are filled with electrolyte. It's what capacitors crave. Slanderer fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Apr 19, 2014 |
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Apr 19, 2014 00:27
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Fucknag posted:How to replace a Honestly that owns. Look how easy it is to replace anything inside that door. Would that have any issue with structural rigidity however?
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Apr 19, 2014 01:07
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tater_salad posted:focus idle air recirc pump Occasional inability to idle on it's own when it's above 50f out and the engine is re-started when warm when sitting for 5-90 minutes.
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Apr 19, 2014 01:46
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No - the internal metal skin is the stressed member.
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Apr 19, 2014 01:46
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Root Bear posted:I've installed plenty. They work like a band-aid on a gangrene limb. -Strut tower caps- My boss at a shop I used to work at had me do a set of these once. I made him add labor to weld them in because I sure as hell wasn't going to just rivet them in, and I added a little extra flat stock here and there and bathed those things in primer and paint afterwards.
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Apr 19, 2014 06:00
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What is it that makes them rust so badly? Do they trap a lot of wet muck up in there?
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Apr 19, 2014 07:56
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Fucknag posted:How to replace a Clever! There are more parts on the inside than the outside if the door anyway. There is also no issue with getting the interior to fit correctly after the repair. No squeaks or rattles and perfect fit. No issue with wiring. Looks like a Skoda to me btw.
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Apr 19, 2014 09:31
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