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You can clean diamond files that are full of metal by running a rare earth magnet across them and then dunking them in water.
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Apr 25, 2014 06:54
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El Estrago Bonito posted:You can clean diamond files that are full of metal by running a rare earth magnet across them and then dunking them in water. Does that work with the white metal used in minis? I didn't think pewter was magnetic.
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Apr 25, 2014 07:05
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Bucnasti posted:Does that work with the white metal used in minis? I didn't think pewter was magnetic. Fair, I don't really use my files on miniature so that slipped my mind, normally I use them for other metal working that IS magnetic.
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Apr 25, 2014 07:45
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It's risky since the file would be hardened metal, but you could probably heat it and quench cool it to shock the filing material off. Ferrous versus non-ferrous. 
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Apr 25, 2014 08:40
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The Sisko posted:So I finally decided to airbrush a model today for the first time and yeah, it didnt work out so well. For reference I am using the Badger Patriot 105 and the Nebula Red Minitaire paint. The paint came out very runny and for lack of a better word sticky. I have no idea about red minitaire paint, right now I'm just using vallejo model colour and getting good results. What are you using to mix your paint with, and in what ratio? And have you taken a large sheet of paper and practised just getting smooth clean lines of varying sizes? I'm just starting too, but I'd also strongly suggest practising on metal models before going to plastics, just easier to strip. I don't know about your paint, but it does look like you put on a far too heavy coat in one pass. The other suggestion is if you based it in black, switch to grey or white, that red youre using is going to need too many layers to cover with the base showing through. Practising on some paper will help show how much spray you can put on before it runs, and lets you dial in your mixture prior to painting. Like sure gaylord can somehow paint super bright colours over black it looks like, but he's also some sort of paint sorcerer and us initiates are not meant to know such dark secrets before attaining our 33rd degree. Edit; for metal files you can also rub soap stone into your file prior to filing to lessen how quickly it clogs. I know this because I'm a welder  not tried this on metal minis but I can't see it harming anything, even if it's not as effective compared to steel. Never actually thought of doing it for miniatures.
VolatileSky fucked around with this message at 08:46 on Apr 25, 2014 |
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Apr 25, 2014 08:40
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VolatileSky posted:Edit; for metal files you can also rub soap stone into your file prior to filing to lessen how quickly it clogs. I know this because I'm a welder for some reason I have this bizarre notion that filing the edge of a copper coin helps dislodge clogging material, not entirely sure where I picked that idea up from.. does it have any legs?
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Apr 25, 2014 09:17
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VolatileSky posted:I have no idea about red minitaire paint, right now I'm just using vallejo model colour and getting good results. What are you using to mix your paint with, and in what ratio? And have you taken a large sheet of paper and practised just getting smooth clean lines of varying sizes? I'm just starting too, but I'd also strongly suggest practising on metal models before going to plastics, just easier to strip. I don't know about your paint, but it does look like you put on a far too heavy coat in one pass. The other suggestion is if you based it in black, switch to grey or white, that red youre using is going to need too many layers to cover with the base showing through. Minitaire is a range of paints produced by Badger that is supposedly pre-thinned and airbrush ready so I did nothing and just shot straight it into the well. I've been practicing on paper in exactly the same way you just described which is why I was so taken aback by the results on the mini today. Ill do some more practice on some paper since I most likely hosed up and check with the local hobby expert if maybe was something else. Anyway I took out my frustration and ended up working on a sternguard for my brother. 
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Apr 25, 2014 09:18
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I R SMART LIKE ROCK posted:Being another Portlander I feel your pain. I just airbrush all my models indoors instead of waiting for the rain to stop. Confirming from Seattle, an airbrush and Vallejo urethane surface primer are the bomb.
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Apr 25, 2014 09:34
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Is http://www.wargameblogs.com/ broken or have there just not been any goon blog posts for 2 months?
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Apr 25, 2014 10:36
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The Sisko posted:Minitaire is a range of paints produced by Badger that is supposedly pre-thinned and airbrush ready so I did nothing and just shot straight it into the well. I've been practicing on paper in exactly the same way you just described which is why I was so taken aback by the results on the mini today. Ill do some more practice on some paper since I most likely hosed up and check with the local hobby expert if maybe was something else. Anyway I took out my frustration and ended up working on a sternguard for my brother. You were too close and probably sprayed too much in one pass/The PSI was too high. If I'm airbrushing, even a basecoat I set the PSI to below 10.
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Apr 25, 2014 11:19
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The old "lead" miniatures do clog diamond files, but i have no problem with the newer "white" metal and diamond files.
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Apr 25, 2014 11:34
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At work when we use files on things like aluminum or other soft metals we just use a stiff wire brush and compressed air to clean them out.
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Apr 25, 2014 13:15
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KING OV HELL posted:I've been wanting to get a finer airbrush for doing stuff a little more detailed than just base coats and what not. Should I get the Krome or the patriot for that? I don't think anyone answered you, but the Renegade Krome is what you want, I think. It is basically the same as the Sotar 20/20 internally but is heavier, larger and has a larger paint cup. Badger's CEO said the Krome was designed by a guy that paints lots of model tanks and the Sotar was designed for illustrators so they feel totally different.
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Apr 25, 2014 13:44
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SRM posted:Finally got around to putting together/painting the Imperial Bastion: This stuff is rad. Nothing improves the quality of a good beerhammer game like playing with sweet painted armies in sweet terrain.
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Apr 25, 2014 13:51
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Clogged files are quickly and easily cleaned with a wire brush. You can buy a multi-pack of them from Harbor Freight for like $3.
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Apr 25, 2014 15:13
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Khorne Flakes posted:Slowly getting back into Warmachine and my desire to paint is finally back. Playing a completely new game system with different models is so invigorating to hit the paints again. Grabbed some Kriel Bearer's the other day and started this blind tonight with nothing really in mind when it came to a pattern. This is legit man, gj. SRM as always your stuff owns as well.
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Apr 25, 2014 15:18
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WhiteWolf123 posted:This stuff is rad. Nothing improves the quality of a good beerhammer game like playing with sweet painted armies in sweet terrain. Fyrbrand posted:SRM as always your stuff owns as well. 
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Apr 25, 2014 15:34
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What's a good replacement for GW's Scorched Brown? Mournfang/Doombull? Or something from P3/Vallejo/Reaper?
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Apr 25, 2014 17:01
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Lungboy posted:What's a good replacement for GW's Scorched Brown? Mournfang/Doombull? Or something from P3/Vallejo/Reaper? GW's Rhinox Hide is what I used to replace it. Looks the same to me.
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Apr 25, 2014 17:05
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Lungboy posted:What's a good replacement for GW's Scorched Brown? Mournfang/Doombull? Or something from P3/Vallejo/Reaper? Rhinox Hide is pretty close but I think it lacks the red tone that Scorched has when you water it down.
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Apr 25, 2014 17:11
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I don't water it, it's for base rims almost exclusively. Thanks for the replies. e: Crosspost from the 40K thread: I have a mountain of Marines to paint, and I currently do them as Eagle Warriors. However, while the halved blue and white looks awesome it's a massive pain in the arse to paint, and literally puts me off painting them, so I've done a test model as a Sons of Medusa chap. Opinions very much welcomed, as I need to decide whether to stick with the Eagle Warriors or Swap to Sons of Medusa:    Ignore mould lines etc, I built this chap ~20 years ago and had no concept of such things. Lungboy fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Apr 25, 2014 |
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Apr 25, 2014 17:24
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A Kickstarter just went up for some drat nice brushes. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/554355176/games-and-gears-ichiban-studios-pro-line-brush 4 brushes, all Sable, size 00,0,1 and 2 for 30 GBP, free shipping to the US. they have aluminum handles that the brushes can be put into, like a pen cap for travel.
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Apr 25, 2014 18:32
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LumberingTroll posted:A Kickstarter just went up for some drat nice brushes. These look nice but be warned that G&G's last brushes kickstarter was of so-so quality.
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Apr 25, 2014 18:35
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Lungboy posted:What's a good replacement for GW's Scorched Brown? Mournfang/Doombull? Or something from P3/Vallejo/Reaper? Pretty sure P3 battlefield brown is a close match, if scorched brown is that lush chocolate brown'ish color I remember, is been a while though, sorry 
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Apr 25, 2014 18:40
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JoshTheStampede posted:These look nice but be warned that G&G's last brushes kickstarter was of so-so quality. Gives me an idea though. Think about how cool it would be to just have pen-style brush holders. You could make a handle with a chuck at the end (or a spring-loaded collet or whatever) with a pen cap that slides over it. X-Acto paintbrush. signalnoise fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Apr 25, 2014 |
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Apr 25, 2014 18:53
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JoshTheStampede posted:These look nice but be warned that G&G's last brushes kickstarter was of so-so quality. I haven't seen their brushes in person but one thing that I noticed is that these aren't Kolinsky Sable, they are 'high quality sable'. The main thing keeping me from hopping on this is that I have tons of unused (Kolinsky) brushes right now and also I don't travel with my brushes so there's no need for me to spend £7+ per brush on a new set.
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Apr 25, 2014 19:56
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serious gaylord posted:You were too close and probably sprayed too much in one pass/The PSI was too high. If I'm airbrushing, even a basecoat I set the PSI to below 10. So apparently I'm just powering that poo poo onto my model so far since I usually set it to around 28-30 psi. Lower psi ranges give a finer spray diameter though, right?
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Apr 25, 2014 20:33
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VolatileSky posted:So apparently I'm just powering that poo poo onto my model so far since I usually set it to around 28-30 psi. 30psi is what i'd use to blast the brush out while im cleaning it. Even at 10psi You'll be covering a wide enough area that you'll be able to basecoat quickly.
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Apr 25, 2014 20:35
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VolatileSky posted:So apparently I'm just powering that poo poo onto my model so far since I usually set it to around 28-30 psi. I usually work in the 10 to 20 psi window. Airbrushing is an equation of distance vs psi vs paint thickness. Play around with all three of those, or fix paint thickness (acts like milk) and then adjust psi and distance. I fix paint thickness, and then adjust the other two. So, if I am painting detail (airbrush is close to model) lower the psi. If I am priming (airbrush further away -bigger area of effect-), increase psi. Edit: The boundaries are from (no paint moving/not aerosolizing) to (spiderwebbing/ohgod its everywhere). dexefiend fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Apr 25, 2014 |
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Apr 25, 2014 20:37
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Lungboy posted:What's a good replacement for GW's Scorched Brown? Mournfang/Doombull? Or something from P3/Vallejo/Reaper? Vallejo Charred Brown. Almost exactly the same colour.
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Apr 25, 2014 21:00
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Hellbeard posted:Another head sculpt practice. 1:56 scale. Wow. These are very very good. It's funny how taking a little break sometimes sharpens things 
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Apr 25, 2014 21:14
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As to the airbrushing equation, someone somewhere put it like this: imagine you are drinking liquid through a straw. The diameter of the straw is your needle size, the thickness of the liquid is the thickness of your paint, and the psi is how hard you suck. If you're spraying thin stuff you can go lower psi or have a narrower needle. If you're trying to spray a milkshake you better either be at 30psi or have a giant needle. You can do everything at high psi but just be aware and move the brush farther back. I tend to do everything at 20 except super detail lines or whatever.
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Apr 25, 2014 21:20
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I picked up a second Catacomb Barge Lord off eBay for pretty cheap since I needed a Res Orb forearm to replace one that had broken off and gotten lost from the first Barge Lord I have. Figured I'd slap on the extra Cryptek right arm I never used and make a Mindshackle Scarabs Lord... I'm not sure if it looks like he's trying to make you stop in the name of love, or if it looks like he's controlling someones brain.
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Apr 25, 2014 21:47
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AndyElusive posted:I'm not sure if it looks like he's trying to make you stop in the name of love I admit that was the very first thing that popped into my mind when I saw the picture.
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Apr 25, 2014 21:49
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AndyElusive posted:
Do some OSL on his palm in pink. Then it can be both! ...Yeah, it's been a long day.
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Apr 25, 2014 23:16
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Can anyone recommend some good decal paper to print my own transfers on?
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Apr 25, 2014 23:34
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Lungboy posted:
That dude's looking good, an army of those would look rad as hell. If you've gone off Eagle Warriors then I'd say go for it. Alternatives could be going with a Crusade army (2nd ed concept where you mix and match chapters in the army, e.g. having UM Tacticals, IF Devastators and so on) or doing a couple squads of each and allying them together (iirc Sons of Medusa are Iron Hands descendants so you can use different Chapter Tactics).
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Apr 25, 2014 23:44
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So I somehow need to acquire a bass guitar, mic stand with a mic, and an amp that would be of the appropriate scale for a 40k mini. Any ideas, or is my best bet going to be green stuff and foamcore? I need this for reasons that I promise to post pictures of once its completed.
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Apr 25, 2014 23:57
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Lungboy posted:Can anyone recommend some good decal paper to print my own transfers on? I just got some of these Bell Decal sheets and they seem to work well. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CA1WW0I Now if only my printer weren't a complete piece of poo poo.
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Apr 26, 2014 00:40
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Lungboy posted:Can anyone recommend some good decal paper to print my own transfers on? http://www.decalpaper.com/default.asp I saw this linked before and I have added it to my long list of bookmarked pages. They seem to have Inkjet versions and Laser versions with some adorably Ma & Pa how-to videos. I may eventually buy laser pages if I ever decide to deal something since I have banned printers from my home. I can't stand printers anymore, garbage software/support and expensive ink. I'll just print an armylist at work when no one is looking (12a-9a shift, oh yeah) or go to a copy-shop and spend a buck.
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Apr 26, 2014 00:45
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will blow your mind.