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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Part of the goal of the vaulted ceiling was so that I wouldn't have ceiling joists; I want a nice open space here (and I also have specced in skylights in the roof plan; not much point for those if there's joists in the way!). I mean I guess I could have joists over only part of the space...ehh. I can think of a few solutions since they are not structural. A) Only put joists in 1/2 of the shed, b) space them out like 3 or 4ft apart to not block light, C) only put in two or three joists exactly where outlets are needed, D) put the joists up even higher in the rafters (see upper joist in this picture) to preserve the open feel.
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Apr 26, 2014 17:40
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Put retractable called reels right above where you want them. Put the stop blocks further up the cable so you can reach them when 'fully' retracted
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Apr 26, 2014 18:30
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Cakefool posted:Put retractable called reels right above where you want them. Put the stop blocks further up the cable so you can reach them when 'fully' retracted Seriously, just do this.
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Apr 26, 2014 19:11
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Cakefool posted:Put retractable called reels right above where you want them. Put the stop blocks further up the cable so you can reach them when 'fully' retracted This sounds like it might be a good idea if I had a clue what you were talking about  Got a diagram or something I could look at to understand it? From discussion earlier in this thread, I was under the impression that to meet code, any permanent outlet must be totally fixed in position.
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Apr 26, 2014 20:10
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http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=retractable+extension+cord It's a cord that retracts like a tape measure. There's a stop on the business end of the cord that prevents it from going too far in, and you can put that stop wherever you need. So put your electrical outlet waaaaay up on the ceiling, hang one of these next to it, and put the stop such that the cord hangs just within reach when retracted.
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Apr 26, 2014 20:14
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Got it, thanks. That seems simple enough, albeit possibly not-to-code (again, from what I understand of prior discussion here) if it's effectively a permanent installation  . Still should be good enough for what I need though!
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Apr 26, 2014 20:24
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You could put a couple of outlets in the floor as well.
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Apr 26, 2014 21:11
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Nitrox posted:You could put a couple of outlets in the floor as well. Yeah, but that does mean running conduit through the foundation slab (which is going to double as the floor), and I've heard that putting conduit inside of concrete tends to make the concrete crack. Maybe it'd be okay to run the conduit underneath the slab and then tunnel straight up to where I want the outlet to be  Guess I should probably dive into the code and/or call up the planning office to ask.
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Apr 26, 2014 21:34
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My high school had hanging outlets in the wood shop as a permanent installation. As long as you install them properly & have the proper strain relief in the system so you aren't hanging equipment solely by the cables I don't think it's against code to do.
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Apr 26, 2014 22:00
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Bad Munki posted:http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=retractable+extension+cord Pretend I posted this, yeah. Also, I was thinking of the UK g-plug version of exactly this: http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H5695-Cord-Reel/dp/B00012XCE8/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1398546347&sr=8-16&keywords=retractable+extension+cord
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Apr 26, 2014 22:07
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Whats the consensuses on module homes? My wife and I will be be inheriting my grandparents house when they pass and while the acreage is great and what we want the house itself is in bad shape. I love their house but the foundation is horrible and the cost to fix it would be to much for a house that is almost a hundred years old with a basement that easily floods. Biggest thing will be no basement when we have the house built. the water table in my hometown is much to high for a basement. Which meant when most of the houses were built they had one
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Apr 27, 2014 01:19
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Addition from Hell! Before:  Right Now: (apologies for the crappy Tablet pic)  Going to put a run of 1/4 round where the countertop meets the walls, and I still have to put in a proper kickplate. Have to give everything a good cleaning as this stuff (counter top and cupboards/shelves) were ripped out of my school when they were doing renos and spend the past 8 months in my garage that (sort of) keeps the weather out. I'm going to put some 3" trim along the bottom of the walls and some 1/4 round against the bottom of that. I was really impressed how fast and easy the laminate flooring went in, and how much it makes it feel like a real room (as opposed to walking on plywood). I'm going to soak and heat a scrap of countertop and peel off the laminate, then trim it to size and glue it on the end of the counter top that is exposed. I think I might do another shelf/cupboard combo to the right of the picture (out of frame) for storing shoes and other outdoorsy stuff. I think I've increased my house's storage capacity by 25% and increased the value of the house overall by 0.005% with the renovation of this room. Pretty good for an addition that was built on an old deck with walls that were bowed, unsupported windows, missing insulation, and horribly inadequate support for the bathroom above it. Edit: not sure what to do with the gap next to the wall on the left, I think I might put a leftover chunk of the laminated particleboard over it so that it's filled in.
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Apr 27, 2014 01:26
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Got it, thanks. That seems simple enough, albeit possibly not-to-code (again, from what I understand of prior discussion here) if it's effectively a permanent installation If they are for fixed uses there is no need whatsoever to suffer the expense and additional length of cable involved with a retractable cord reel. You can simply use appropriately sized "extension cord" (not wall cabling)...somthing like 12/3 SJTW....from a box on the ceiling. It attached to the box with this thing, which provides the box nut as well as strain relief:  (this is upside down from the way you would be using it). Then you simply terminate the other end of the cord with an appropriate receptacle:  That setup is 100% to code for permanent use, as it is no longer an extension cord. It is a real outlet. This is often how power is done for equipment on shop floors and in warehouses where trenching concrete would be too expensive or disruptive.
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Apr 27, 2014 03:18
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GreenNight posted:Good point. They do give a 30 year warranty against water in the basement and a 10 year against plumbing (and electrical) issues, but that's something to be aware of too. Hey I wish you and your new home all the best, but you would be a fool to think that the contractor you are buying from will still be in business in 30 years, much less 10. You said they had done business under a different name that you know of, I'd bet money that "Veridian Homes" isn't honoring jack for warranties that "Don Simons Homes" signed. Eventually Veridian will become "Stylon Homes" and your warranty will be worth nothing. Uncle Enzo fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Apr 27, 2014 |
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Apr 27, 2014 03:44
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Uncle Enzo posted:Hey I wish you and your new home all the best, but you would be a fool to think that the contractor you are buying from will still be in business in 30 years, much less 10. You said they had done business under a different name that you know of, I'd bet money that "Veridian Homes" isn't honoring jack for warranties that "Dan Simmons Homes" signed. Eventually Veridian will become "Stylon Homes" and your warranty will be worth nothing. That right there is High Volume Construction Business 101.
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Apr 27, 2014 03:46
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Yep, I know of a highly reputable condo builder that's been putting up highly reputable guaranteed poo poo in the region for a good 20 years and I think he's on his 5th company now. Those previous companies don't exist or went bankrupt and he of course was just an employee of the person-entity that was that development corporation. Throw up some condos or townhouses, make bank on pre-sales and promises, then cheaply finish the building and dissolve the company and start over. The only guarantee for a home is actual good construction, which you don't get from a house-mill. Get a good architect or designer, hire a recommended contractor, and build something that will actually last longer than the shell company that built it.
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Apr 27, 2014 03:58
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But that would cost money.
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Apr 27, 2014 04:39
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Motronic posted:If they are for fixed uses there is no need whatsoever to suffer the expense and additional length of cable involved with a retractable cord reel. Awesome, thanks! So I can basically have a couple of "hanging outlets" in the middle of the room that are attached to the rafters and go straight down to terminate in a female plug. I'm not sure if this would look better than the reeled power cables, but it sounds cheaper/safer/more reliable. At the very least it's good to know that there's a to-code option.
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Apr 27, 2014 04:39
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All of this talk about builders changing companies every few years is why I am never buying a house built by someone else again. If I ever move again, it's going to be into something I built myself, with at most the cementwork done by outside help, because I'll be damned if I let some other idiot build my house. If an idiot who is bad with money is going to build a house for me, it's going to be me.
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Apr 27, 2014 05:20
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Awesome, thanks! So I can basically have a couple of "hanging outlets" in the middle of the room that are attached to the rafters and go straight down to terminate in a female plug. Look better? Just coil them up when they aren't in use. But I thought from your post this was for things that will be staying plugged in. Another suggestion: while you're building put a "ceiling fan box" wherever these are going to go. You won't be likely to pull one of those out and crack the drywall you've finished over the top of it (if you're doing that). You can get box covers that are like blanks but have a hole for a box nut in the middle of them. That's what I'd go for in this setup.
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Apr 27, 2014 16:14
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If you plan on having a stationary item in the middle of the floor, then conduit under concrete is definitely worth the trouble. I've had a permanent table saw setup in the middle of my last shop, the floor cords were annoying enough to pull up concrete and do it right. Also ran PVC pipe for vacuum suction while we were at it. Definitely worth a day's work.
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Apr 27, 2014 16:26
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Nitrox posted:If you plan on having a stationary item in the middle of the floor, then conduit under concrete is definitely worth the trouble. I've had a permanent table saw setup in the middle of my last shop, the floor cords were annoying enough to pull up concrete and do it right. Also ran PVC pipe for vacuum suction while we were at it. Definitely worth a day's work. If this concrete doesn't exist yet this is a couple dollars and a few hours of planning/work. It's absolutely the right way to go for a clean/dry shop.
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Apr 27, 2014 17:18
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The concrete doesn't exist yet, no. I had some concerns about running conduit inside the concrete (apparently it can cause the concrete to crack) but if I can just run underneath it, between the concrete and the gravel, then tunnel straight up to the outlet, that would probably be the best solution. Hadn't thought about running PVC for suction; that also sounds like a good idea. What diameter would you recommend, 1 1/4"? Sounds like I'm going to need to make a detailed layout plan of the foundation slab...
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Apr 27, 2014 19:11
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I had some concerns about running conduit inside the concrete (apparently it can cause the concrete to crack) but if I can just run underneath it, between the concrete and the gravel, then tunnel straight up to the outlet, that would probably be the best solution. Well, yes...I don't think were were bing very descriptive there. You don't run conduit IN what is presumably going to be minimum depth concrete. It's placed in the stone bed below the concrete like so:  This is the pipe for the floor drains in my barn. It's already backfilled on the "out" side. The visible PVC in the trench is heading for the drains in the rest of the barn. When you're ready to pour you should end up with your drain or box exactly at your intended floor level: 
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Apr 27, 2014 19:46
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Wife and I are looking at houses right now. We live in the neighborhood we plan on buying in, and the houses are overall really good quality, just a little older, mostly built in the 1950s. Anyway we saw a nice one today, but in the kitchen near the sink I saw this interesting device:
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Apr 27, 2014 23:45
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I, umm...I kind of want one of those.
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Apr 27, 2014 23:47
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I've never seen anything like that, wow.
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Apr 27, 2014 23:50
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I've never seen one either. The first problem I can think of is that you can put polarized plugs into that backwards.
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Apr 27, 2014 23:52
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DNova posted:I've never seen one either. The first problem I can think of is that you can put polarized plugs into that backwards. Or knives, coins, and really anything that's the right thickness. I hope no kids grew up around that thing.
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Apr 28, 2014 00:12
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Slugworth posted:Is this a regional thing? I'm not saying access panels aren't a good idea, but with the exception of whirlpool tubs, I have literally never seen an access panel for plumbing, and I worked in water damage restoration for the last seven years. Plumbing being inaccessible without demo is very much the norm here, and wouldn't scare me away from a home. I'm not saying that he should walk away if they don't install access panels, but I am suggesting that he plan ahead for future issues when they come up, as I'm sure they will in a mass-built house like that.
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Apr 28, 2014 00:44
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Wife and I are looking at houses right now. We live in the neighborhood we plan on buying in, and the houses are overall really good quality, just a little older, mostly built in the 1950s. Anyway we saw a nice one today, but in the kitchen near the sink I saw this interesting device: I've seen a couple of those before. They really predate the 1950s. I've also never seen one wired with a cord thick enough to support the number of plugs that could be inserted into it.
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Apr 28, 2014 00:57
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Just needs a 3rd bar for ground!
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Apr 28, 2014 01:04
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I bet it's not GFCI protected, either.
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Apr 28, 2014 01:06
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Bucephalus posted:I bet it's not GFCI protected, either. It's not in a wet area.
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Apr 28, 2014 01:09
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neogeo0823 posted:I hope no kids grew up around that thing.
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Apr 28, 2014 01:09
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I'm actually envisioning a special purpose-built plug for it, that just has two really wiiiiiiiiiide but shallow blades.  DNova posted:The first problem I can think of is that you can put polarized plugs into that backwards. 
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Apr 28, 2014 01:29
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Bad Munki posted:I also like to imagine that one of the slots in that thing is slightly longer than the other because of that. Haha. Spirit of the law rather than letter of the law!
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Apr 28, 2014 01:32
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Wife and I are looking at houses right now. We live in the neighborhood we plan on buying in, and the houses are overall really good quality, just a little older, mostly built in the 1950s. Anyway we saw a nice one today, but in the kitchen near the sink I saw this interesting device:  and was  ing over that, but god drat.
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Apr 28, 2014 01:54
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kizudarake posted:I'm not saying that he should walk away if they don't install access panels, but I am suggesting that he plan ahead for future issues when they come up, as I'm sure they will in a mass-built house like that.
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Apr 28, 2014 01:54
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DNova posted:It's not in a wet area. .... Mercury Ballistic posted:Wife and I are looking at houses right now. We live in the neighborhood we plan on buying in, and the houses are overall really good quality, just a little older, mostly built in the 1950s. Anyway we saw a nice one today, but in the kitchen near the sink I saw this interesting device:
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Apr 28, 2014 04:23
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