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Bobsledboy posted:The meads I did with dry wine yeast had some pretty weird looking yeast rafts on top for a few weeks. Does it taste infected? I haven't tasted it, and having never tasted an infected batch or a fermenting mead, I'm not sure I could accurately identify it one way or the other. Here is the best picture I could get, because my phone just won't cooperate while it's on the shelves, and the clump in question vanishes when I move it somewhere better.  It's a poo poo picture, but that's the best I can get for now. Aiming down the neck just focuses on the lip, which is the opposite of helpful...
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Apr 30, 2014 05:31
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Looks like a yeast raft to me, but I can't really see any details on it. Is it a ropey skin? It could be lactobacillus. Scummy looking bubbles with lines connecting them? Could be pediococcus or Brett. But from your pick it just looks like yeast.
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Apr 30, 2014 11:31
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Looks like yeast to me too. Mead/cider doesn't really have the proteins for a full krausen.
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Apr 30, 2014 12:06
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What's the name for the layer that forms on some beers (for me it seems to be only saisons?) that looks like a dried, cracked desert floor? I've never been able to figure out what that is. E: here's a current one http://i.imgur.com/fGtnksel.jpg fullroundaction fucked around with this message at 12:46 on Apr 30, 2014 |
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Apr 30, 2014 12:44
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I'd say it's just a lot of yeast rafts. I'm pretty sure it's just the krausen falling.
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Apr 30, 2014 12:51
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I'm also gonna +1 that the mead is probably a yeast raft inflated by some Co2
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Apr 30, 2014 14:17
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There was some discussion of session IPAs a couple of pages ago, based on that and the Mad Fermentationist blog post I've come up with this: 5.25gallon / single infusion mash / no sparge (Brewtoad says this is 1.045 at 60% efficiency) 7 lbs Maris Otter 1.5 lbs Munich 1 lb 20L Crystal 1 lb flaked wheat(or oats, or rye. Not sure yet) Mash at 154. Hops: I'm thinking around 40 IBU with most of the IBU coming from a 40 minute addition and then ~3 ounces in the last 5 minutes of the boil. Then 1 oz dry hop for 5 days or so. Haven't quite decided which hops to use, I'll see what the shop has tonight. Yeast: S-04. How does this look?
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Apr 30, 2014 17:07
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CapnBry posted:The quote said "1lb EACH [of 2 hops]" so that's 2 lbs for 31.5 gallons = 5.08oz for 5 gallons. Reading is apparently hard. and that is a crapload of hops to dry hop with. I can't find any specific references for loss due to absorption but i would imagine it would be quite a bit of loss. especially at homebrew scales where the weight of the rest of the trub and beer might help compact and squeeze out the hops that settle to the bottom of the vessel. Next time I rack off of hops from dry hopping I may try weighing the vessel to do a quick calculation of the volume of beer left in the hops. it wouldn't be entirely accurate since there will be other trub and such that settles out most likely but it should provide at least a rough estimate.
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Apr 30, 2014 17:50
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With the smaller grist, you may get higher efficiency and end up less sessiony than you wanted. I did a lager that was supposed to be 1.043, based on my 65%-ish efficiency I'd been getting on 10-11lb grist bills, but this was more like 8lbs and I ended up at 1.055.
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Apr 30, 2014 17:50
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pugnax posted:I'm pretty economical with the stuff - I think I've gotten 30-40 batches out of a couple of bottles. Great idea about the spray bottle though. Same. Fresh every time. I keep an old pop bottle with my brewing supplies and fill it with 1.5L water + 0.5tsp Starsan (which is the same ratio as you'd use for a 5 gallon batch). Put some in a spray bottle, done.
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Apr 30, 2014 19:00
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more falafel please posted:With the smaller grist, you may get higher efficiency and end up less sessiony than you wanted. I did a lager that was supposed to be 1.043, based on my 65%-ish efficiency I'd been getting on 10-11lb grist bills, but this was more like 8lbs and I ended up at 1.055. Did you sparge that batch? My recipe is 10.5 lbs which isn't really that low but I'm thinking the efficiency loss from not sparging will drop me into session territory.
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Apr 30, 2014 19:28
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Been brewing two beers today, at end of the second mash I go to open the flow and turn on the pumps... one of the pumps has died, seems I gotta do some kind batch type sparge loving pumps.  Will be interesting as with fly sparge I normally hit the 85%+ mark.Edit: Op'ted for the "as you collect the runnings be a human sparge arm". Fluo fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Apr 30, 2014 |
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Apr 30, 2014 19:39
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I've been having continued efficiency woes from BIAB. I've been implementing changes one at a time (started at 63%). I recently lowered my mash temp from 170 Mash-in to 160 (got 60%). Now I'm getting frustrated so next round I'm lowering Mash-in to 157, double crushing, and doing some kind of mini sparge ( I only have 1 big pot and drain the grain on a spaghetti strainer over it. I'll be pouring a smaller pot of 160 water over it as my sparge, as well as a bag squeeze).
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Apr 30, 2014 19:41
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Marshmallow Blue posted:I've been having continued efficiency woes from BIAB. I've been implementing changes one at a time (started at 63%). I recently lowered my mash temp from 170 Mash-in to 160 (got 60%). Now I'm getting frustrated so next round I'm lowering Mash-in to 157, double crushing, and doing some kind of mini sparge ( I only have 1 big pot and drain the grain on a spaghetti strainer over it. I'll be pouring a smaller pot of 160 water over it as my sparge, as well as a bag squeeze). How long are you mashing? I think I've seen stuff saying BIAB shouldn't have an issue doing 15-30 extra minutes on the standard hour long mash. Incidentally, is there any reason for why a normal mash is 60 minutes?
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Apr 30, 2014 20:00
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I do 60 minute mashes. I think it had to do with the way the grains were kilned or whatever. Now I hear people do like 30 minute mashes because the malting process is better but I've always done 60 anyways.
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Apr 30, 2014 20:07
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To that end, I'm doing a cream ale w/ 50% pilsner this weekend; is a 90 minute boil still recommended/necessary with pilsner?
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Apr 30, 2014 20:14
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Yeah I think so
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Apr 30, 2014 20:27
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e: ^^^ timely post - I'm doing a Cream Ale tomorrow and I might have forgotten that.Marshmallow Blue posted:I've been having continued efficiency woes from BIAB. I've been implementing changes one at a time (started at 63%). I recently lowered my mash temp from 170 Mash-in to 160 (got 60%). Now I'm getting frustrated so next round I'm lowering Mash-in to 157, double crushing, and doing some kind of mini sparge ( I only have 1 big pot and drain the grain on a spaghetti strainer over it. I'll be pouring a smaller pot of 160 water over it as my sparge, as well as a bag squeeze). This is really similar to what I do, but 157 is too high for mash-in on my equipment. I'm not doing big batches (and mostly still partial mashing if my gravity is going to be high). I only lose a few degrees with most room-temp grain additions and it stays solid for 45min, at which point I make sure my sparge water is at a good temp. and let the mash kinda do whatever for a while. I think I'm going to try multi-step infusion (ala Mad Fermentationist Pliny Younger clone) for my next IIPA (not a Younger clone, but I like dry beer). I do need a bigger strainer, though  Also! I Followed more or less this guide that I think I got from a link here: http://www.stirstarters.com/instructions.html Works great, has more than enough stirring power, plenty of granularity. I did waste some time thinking that an 8V power supply was to low, and it turned out that the magnet was too close to the motor and was holding it still. 
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Apr 30, 2014 20:39
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Marshmallow Blue posted:I do 60 minute mashes. With 30minute mashes I find the efficiency is always not quite there, I do a lot of 90minute mashes and it really is great for my dark beers, it also bumps the effiency up a good 5/10%*! *From personal experience, other people may have different.
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Apr 30, 2014 20:43
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So yesterday was brew day #2 in about a week or so. Brewed up my first ESB-style beer, henceforth known as Bad Bobby Brown's Extra Special English Bitter. Here's what I used, for those more experienced with the style feel free to critique it. Malts: 5# Maris Otter/UK (3 SRM) 5# 2-row/UK (3 SRM) 1# Amber Malt (22 SRM) 1# Crystal 60 Mash @ 156F 60 min, approx 1.1qt/lb for thicker grist "Hand-sparge" @ 168F Hops: First wort - 1oz Willamette (5.5AA) @60min - 1 oz Fuggles (4.5AA) @15min - 1 oz Fuggles (4.5AA) 1 oz EKG (5.0AA) @2min - 1 oz Bravo (16.8AA) Mainly used the bravo to get rid of them, but they had a marvelous spicey/floral aroma reminiscent of other UK-style hops so I thought they would go well. Yeast: WLP028 Edinburgh Ale OG 1.056 IBU ~44.5 Color ~11.4 SRM Pics:  left to right: whats left of the skeeter pee, secondaried Double Red Rye-PA, fermentation beginning on Bad Bobby Brown's Extra Special English Bitter
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Apr 30, 2014 20:45
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Fluo posted:With 30minute mashes I find the efficiency is always not quite there, I do a lot of 90minute mashes and it really is great for my dark beers, it also bumps the effiency up a good 5/10%*! Is that 5-10% from 30 minutes or 60?
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Apr 30, 2014 20:47
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Marshmallow Blue posted:Is that 5-10% from 30 minutes or 60? I find I always get better efficiency (5-10%) from 90minute mash with the fly sparge technique (compared to 60minutes), I haven't done a 60minute mash for awhile which I should try again sometime soon to see if its still true for me. 
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Apr 30, 2014 20:52
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Marshmallow Blue posted:Is that 5-10% from 30 minutes or 60? I know it's not exactly 1:1 with BIAB, but I've gained easily 20% in just slowing down my sparge. Maybe a bit more squeezing of your bag, a 'bath' sparge, or just pour some hot water SLOWLY over while you wait for it to boil, could help?
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Apr 30, 2014 21:43
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Marshmallow Blue posted:I've been having continued efficiency woes from BIAB. I've been implementing changes one at a time (started at 63%). I recently lowered my mash temp from 170 Mash-in to 160 (got 60%). Now I'm getting frustrated so next round I'm lowering Mash-in to 157, double crushing, and doing some kind of mini sparge ( I only have 1 big pot and drain the grain on a spaghetti strainer over it. I'll be pouring a smaller pot of 160 water over it as my sparge, as well as a bag squeeze). Do a mash out, it's especially important in be in a bag, since it significantly helps run off.
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Apr 30, 2014 22:00
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SO offered to buy me a vinegar barrel for my birthday, as I love fermenting things. I figured y'all might know of a different place to get a virgin 2L-4L barrel for cheaper than $100? I might also go non-virgin barrel if it would still make good vinegar. I'm not good enough at brewing beer to try oak aging a beer, but from what I can tell vinegar is a lot more forgiving. ...actually, now that I think of it, could I do vinegar in a gallon glass jug with a wooden chair leg plug like I've heard others do? I know if you jam the wood in there with no regard for expansion, you'll shatter the mouth of the jug, so I'd have to rig something with some give, like a dowel inside a rubber stopper. Thoughts?
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Apr 30, 2014 23:17
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Thufir posted:Did you sparge that batch? My recipe is 10.5 lbs which isn't really that low but I'm thinking the efficiency loss from not sparging will drop me into session territory. Yeah, I've always sparged (batch).
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Apr 30, 2014 23:22
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Dad has had the gear at home for years and hasn't used it in almost as many, the stuff keeps going up in price here very couple months it seems so I decided to take the stuff put my first brew in Black Horse, a local lager, is my usual brand, so I went with the lager mix the store had. I'm following the directions on the can, I've added the contents of it and the sugar, now it says when at 22-30 degrees Celsius to add the yeast. The keg and the bottles are all I have in terms of equipment, I know it isn't that warm yet though. Does that really make a big difference? I know its probably gonna take a few tries to get it how I'll like it, but it will have to be pretty bad for me not to drink it.
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Apr 30, 2014 23:33
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BrianBoitano posted:...actually, now that I think of it, could I do vinegar in a gallon glass jug with a wooden chair leg plug like I've heard others do? I know if you jam the wood in there with no regard for expansion, you'll shatter the mouth of the jug, so I'd have to rig something with some give, like a dowel inside a rubber stopper. How's a wooden peg better than foil or something? Genuinely curious since I have yet to make vinegar.
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Apr 30, 2014 23:48
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ChickenArise posted:How's a wooden peg better than foil or something? Genuinely curious since I have yet to make vinegar.
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May 1, 2014 00:00
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Marshmallow Blue posted:I've been having continued efficiency woes from BIAB. I've been implementing changes one at a time (started at 63%). I recently lowered my mash temp from 170 Mash-in to 160 (got 60%). Now I'm getting frustrated so next round I'm lowering Mash-in to 157, double crushing, and doing some kind of mini sparge ( I only have 1 big pot and drain the grain on a spaghetti strainer over it. I'll be pouring a smaller pot of 160 water over it as my sparge, as well as a bag squeeze). If you're doing standard BIAB, I'm really unsure why you're not just adding the grains into the cold water and walking the whole drat thing up to your mash rest temp and walking away for 90 minutes as most instructionals will tell you to do. You mention crushing - if you're receiving your grains pre-crushed and not specifying a double crush or ultra-fine crush or whatnot, that'll definitely affect your efficiency. You can go fairly close to flour-like consistency, and if you have your own mill, stick a credit card between the rollers and tighten it up a hair more beyond that. That's a good way to quickly dial in a useful gap if you don't have calipers. Also, don't be afraid to twist and squeeze a fair bit. There's no real harm (at least in my experience) in taking a while to squeeze a lot prior to the boil.
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May 1, 2014 00:22
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codo27 posted:Dad has had the gear at home for years and hasn't used it in almost as many, the stuff keeps going up in price here very couple months it seems so I decided to take the stuff put my first brew in As long as it isn't something ridiculous like 10degC, it'll be fine. It might take a bit longer but still
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May 1, 2014 00:48
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I have my own mill for crushing so ill get it finer. As far as stepping it up im worried about burning my bag because i dont have a false bottom or something to use as one.
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May 1, 2014 01:15
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Marshmallow Blue posted:I have my own mill for crushing so ill get it finer. As far as stepping it up im worried about burning my bag because i dont have a false bottom or something to use as one. Maybe get a round baking rack if a regular false bottom won't fit in your pot? I use one in my pasteurizing pot to keep the bottles away from the direct heat.
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May 1, 2014 05:06
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BLARGHLE posted:Maybe get a round baking rack if a regular false bottom won't fit in your pot? I use one in my pasteurizing pot to keep the bottles away from the direct heat. I was having efficiency issues with BIAB as well. I corrected this by basically doing what folks suggested here: - Mill the grain as fine as possible. - Steep for 90 minutes. - Do a higher temperature mash-out. - Squeeze the hell out of the bag after you remove it. I started dropping the grain bag into my bottling bucket, smashing the hell out of with a spoon or similar object, and then letting all the rich sugar water drip out of the spigot, back into my kettle. These things got me from 50-60% efficiency to 75-85% efficiency.
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May 1, 2014 07:46
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A crapload of spoons in the bottom of your pot would work in a pinch, but I've never had a bag scorch with no false bottom.
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May 1, 2014 15:19
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Or you could go all viking-tech and use juniper branches. Put a fair bit of rye in the mash and call it sahti.
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May 1, 2014 16:21
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Jo3sh posted:Or you could go all viking-tech and use juniper branches. Put a fair bit of rye in the mash and call it sahti. Maybe I'll get all Allston and use a tree branch from the trees in the parking median.
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May 1, 2014 16:24
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Yesterday (late, ugh) I brewed my Consecration kit from MoreBeer. I'm starting to really like the idea of "no sparge" brewing and I seem to hit the efficiencies I want without issue. This recipe had 12 lbs of grain, I have a 10 gal mash tun, so it ended up being the exact correct boil volume without sparging. Pretty cool. Another new thing I tried was just putting my hose water straight in my mash tun cooler to the 9 gal line and using my immersion circulator to heat it up to the correct temp. That way I don't have to worry about the heat capacity of the mash tun itself and can save some propane at the expense of time.
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May 1, 2014 17:17
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Glottis posted:I'm starting to really like the idea of "no sparge" brewing and I seem to hit the efficiencies I want without issue. What was your overall brewhouse efficiency?
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May 1, 2014 18:11
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fullroundaction posted:What was your overall brewhouse efficiency? I get confused with what exactly "brewhouse efficiency" means, but my mash efficiency was 70%. Previously, using single infusion mashes with a sparge volume roughly equal to the original infusion volume, I was hitting exactly 70% each time. This is the second batch I have tried no-sparge with, the first one was a Kolsh that hit 78% efficiency, the first time I've gotten over 70%.
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May 1, 2014 20:18
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