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FCKGW posted:I've had that exact same saw for a few years now. The laser guide gave out after a few months but otherwise it's worked wonderfully for all my home projects. I was using it outdoors on an overcast day yesterday and I could just barely make out the laser. It's a really nice bonus. I want to see if I can't get a more powerful laser in there.
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May 24, 2014 17:58
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Not so much a tool recommendation- but I need a new BBQ, any recommendations? I've cooked for years on charcoal and am not adverse to making my own. Propane is also fine.
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May 25, 2014 04:29
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the spyder posted:Not so much a tool recommendation- but I need a new BBQ, any recommendations? I've cooked for years on charcoal and am not adverse to making my own. Propane is also fine. How many people are you planning to cook for? You could maybe ask in Goons with Spoons too.
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May 25, 2014 20:01
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Weber is a pretty safe bet for a charcoal grill I'd say.
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May 25, 2014 20:41
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Picked up the ridgid r2510 portable table saw this weekend. Actually it's labeled r2513, not sure what the difference is. Home depot had it on sale for $450 (Canadian) for father's day. I considered the Bosch one but after reading a ton of reviews I couldn't justify the $150 price difference. I won't get a chance to use it right away, still gotta finish the drawers for my entertainment unit. But after that I have plans to build a computer desk, hallway bench, bed frame, dining room table, wine rack... yeesh so much to do, if only it would stop raining here Edit, actually one question. I read somewhere the riving knife is too thick for some thin kerf blades. The knife has a max and min blade thickness printed on it. I bought a 50 tooth Diablo blade that is thin kerf but I can't tell if it's too thin or not. It feels very close to the same thickness as the knife but there's no actual thickness printed on the blade or packaging. Anyone know off hand if the blade is thick enough? I think the min thickness printed on the knife is .094 inches Squibbles fucked around with this message at 04:21 on May 26, 2014 |
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May 26, 2014 04:11
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I need some way to cut quarter round moulding around cabinets on a laminate floor. I need to cut good 45 degrees. Are tiny little miter boxes like this any good for this purpose? I'm probably only going to use this once, so I'd rather spend $15 than $150 on a powered, big saw. http://www.lowes.com/pd_48795-355-20-600_0__?productId=50168173
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May 29, 2014 00:28
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canyoneer posted:I need some way to cut quarter round moulding around cabinets on a laminate floor. I need to cut good 45 degrees. Are tiny little miter boxes like this any good for this purpose? I'm probably only going to use this once, so I'd rather spend $15 than $150 on a powered, big saw. I've got one just like it. If you're careful you should be able to get some cuts that are close enough.
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May 29, 2014 00:47
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canyoneer posted:I need some way to cut quarter round moulding around cabinets on a laminate floor. I need to cut good 45 degrees. Are tiny little miter boxes like this any good for this purpose? I'm probably only going to use this once, so I'd rather spend $15 than $150 on a powered, big saw. I have one too and I love that thing, if you're just doing a couple cuts here and there it's well worth it. Just be careful not to let the saw teeth abrade the side of the slot and it'll last longer.
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May 29, 2014 01:34
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the spyder posted:Not so much a tool recommendation- but I need a new BBQ, any recommendations? I've cooked for years on charcoal and am not adverse to making my own. Propane is also fine. When you say BBQ do you mean BBQ or do you mean grill? Important distinction here. My buddy and I both have this guy: http://www.amazon.com/Char-Griller-2828-Deluxe-Charcoal-Grill/dp/B008IXFYJS which with the additional smoker attachment does a good job on ribs and the occasional brisket. It's lasted a number of years already without the best of care. It's certainly no Big Green Egg but it's also a few hundred bucks cheaper and can do a better job with large grilling tasks too. I wouldn't try to make your own unless you are decent at metal work already and you can source drums that you are 100% positive didn't have nasty stuff in them. Do not get a Webber. Those things are the overpriced junk of the grilling market at this point. But note that none of my advice or knowledge applies to propane.
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May 31, 2014 17:06
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There is a WEN dual bevel sliding miter saw on tools.woot today for $175. Is this even remotely good? The price is a good $300 less than saws with similar features. http://tools.woot.com/offers/wen-dualbevel-sliding-compound-miter-saw?ref=cnt_dly_img
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Jun 5, 2014 14:55
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The Sears near me had a Wen single bevel 10" slide and it would be fine for construction lumber and rough work. There's slop in the slide and mount assembly that allows the blade to deflect a bit, which makes fine trim work a pain in the rear end. The single bevel was similar to the Kobalt slide I have for doing rough work and simple trim, but getting crown dialed in is a pain in the rear end since there's that +/- movement to the saw head even with the slide locked. I assume the dual bevel is much the same. edit: not to mention, if you're going to take your chances with a saw, take your chances with one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-double-bevel-sliding-compound-miter-saw-with-laser-guide-system-69684-9104.html
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Jun 5, 2014 16:22
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I picked up a couple green grinding stones at a yard sale - they feel like regular aluminum oxide wheels but they're green. the internet tells me a couple things: 1) they're for grinding carbide and you can't use them for steel 2) they will work fine on steel 3) if you use them on steel it will "do something weird" to the steel and make it "worthless" so what's goin on with these things? they seem to work ok except the 60 grit seems glazed and I don't have a dresser I've sharpened a couple chisels with them and while it seems fine. Took a longer time than I expected but it's been so long since I've used a grinding wheel I don't really know
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Jun 6, 2014 05:15
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Green wheels are silicon carbide. They're more abrasive, but a lot softer so they wear out really fast. They are good for nonferrous metals as long as you go light and don't load them up. Harder steels tend to shred them and they don't cut as well.
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Jun 6, 2014 05:51
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http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/tls/4506219862.html Lathe, motor and tools for $85. Great deal but not sure I need it
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Jun 6, 2014 07:01
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For anyone in the market: Amazon is running some great deals for Father's Day. $20 Off $100 orders on select DeWalt, Bosch, & Makita. I picked up the DCK296M2 20V cordless brushless impact driver / hammer drill kit for $279 after discount. It's on Home Depot's site for $369. I even checked my DeWalt Distributor Price List at work, and it's cheaper than my company could buy it for resale. drat you, Amazon.com Buying Power. I'll take the good deal and ask my sales rep if she gets commission for stuff I but on Amazon to rub it in her face. Edit: For some reason, it's not showing it as Prime eligible. Their stocking DC must have run out. It would be worth keeping an eye on.
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Jun 6, 2014 12:44
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dwoloz posted:http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/tls/4506219862.html They are a lot of fun not a bad price for a lathe to learn on and figure out if turning is for you. Make sure it has a threaded spindle to attach a chuck.
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Jun 6, 2014 13:47
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oxbrain posted:Green wheels are silicon carbide. They're more abrasive, but a lot softer so they wear out really fast. They are good for nonferrous metals as long as you go light and don't load them up. Harder steels tend to shred them and they don't cut as well. well that last part lines up nicely with my experience. Thanks!
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Jun 7, 2014 05:54
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Yeah, we basically had to quit using silicon carbide wheels here because the kids would ram quarter inch steel rods into them to "round off the edges" and gouge massive grooves in the surface. There are regular wheels right beside the ones that say NO STEEL, dammit!
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Jun 7, 2014 06:05
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We leave them out as bait so the uninitiated don't go looking for the diamond wheels. 
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Jun 7, 2014 06:38
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I'm borrowing a tile saw from a guy at work. It's a nice wet saw that formerly belonged to his brother, who had a habit of buying very nice tools but being horrible at every task he tried to use them on. The water pump died about 20 tiles in, and I replaced it with another universal pump. I'm getting the hang of this saw pretty well, but I've noticed the last dozen cuts or so on 12" ceramic floor tiles have a hard time making it all the way to the end before cracking. Fortunately, all these cracks are pretty close in line with what the saw would have cut anyway. Does that mean it's time to replace the blade? If so, my coworker is getting back a tile saw with a new pump and new blade, lucky guy.
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Jun 11, 2014 01:41
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A new blade will certainly work better, especially if it was used dry while it had a non-functional pump, but first try getting more water in the cut if you have it choked off at all and see if that helps. You could also try flipping the tile around halfway through and cutting from the other side to get you through this job without buying a new blade.
Chauncey fucked around with this message at 07:49 on Jun 11, 2014 |
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Jun 11, 2014 07:46
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How awful can a harbor freight sawzall be? I use one about 2x a year, the batteries for my Hitachi cordless one just aren't cutting it any more. Is the motor going to explode and leave me with no hands?
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Jun 16, 2014 00:50
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tater_salad posted:How awful can a harbor freight sawzall be? I use one about 2x a year, the batteries for my Hitachi cordless one just aren't cutting it any more. I have one. It is absolutely horribly balanced and my arms were numb for a couple days after using it to take down 16 ft of 2x6 wall earlier. That said, it was $9, and it's a sawzall, so whatever.
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Jun 16, 2014 01:10
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Tim Thomas posted:I have one. It is absolutely horribly balanced and my arms were numb for a couple days after using it to take down 16 ft of 2x6 wall earlier. That said, it was $9, and it's a sawzall, so whatever. Not so fast there. http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vibration_white_finger If you are going to use a tool regularly make sure it doesn't cause numbness like that.
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Jun 16, 2014 01:23
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The One I Saw Was 20 I've gotten numbness from using my dad's Milwaukee cutting 20 4x4 fence posts off to size. Like 8 said I'd be using pretty irregularly hence wanting harbor freight. For example today I was building a playhouse out of pallets and a saw all would have helped cut a few pieces instead of dicking around with my circular saw.
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Jun 16, 2014 01:56
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http://www.lowes.com/pd_571001-40854-RK5131K_0__?productId=50169939 Got one of those last weekend. I'm doing some tiling, and after undercutting one door jamb with a keyhole saw, the oscillating tool has paid for itself in how much easier that task has become. I bought a compressor and brad nailer to redo all the trim in my house. I'd like some recommendations on hoses and fittings. They all seemed really expensive in the stores, like they were the high margin items in the store (like HDMI cables at Best Buy). My nailer uses a 1/4 in connector, and I'd like to have a blower attachment and something to inflate tires.
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Jun 16, 2014 19:50
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canyoneer posted:http://www.lowes.com/pd_571001-40854-RK5131K_0__?productId=50169939 ...Speaking of vibration injuries. My dad has one of these oscillating tools and I will use literally anything else to avoid using it.
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Jun 17, 2014 16:49
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Sagebrush posted:Yeah, we basically had to quit using silicon carbide wheels here because the kids would ram quarter inch steel rods into them to "round off the edges" and gouge massive grooves in the surface. There are regular wheels right beside the ones that say NO STEEL, dammit! This behavior depends a lot on the Bond type as well, sometimes more than the compound used.
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Jun 18, 2014 01:57
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Dragyn posted:...Speaking of vibration injuries. My dad has one of these oscillating tools and I will use literally anything else to avoid using it. Yeah I've used one and gone numb in 5 min
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Jun 18, 2014 02:01
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Dragyn posted:...Speaking of vibration injuries. My dad has one of these oscillating tools and I will use literally anything else to avoid using it. Really? I've got that model and I've found it to be really easy on the hands.
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Jun 18, 2014 06:47
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found this thing at a flea market for 20 bucks:  it works, but it does need a good cleaning, and possibly some TLC, what should i generally look out for in a scroll saw like this one?
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Jun 18, 2014 07:54
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New blade, check for cracks in the arms, general look-see & lubricate. There isn't a lot to go wrong, as long as you're aware they're not a replacement for a bandsaw.
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Jun 18, 2014 11:10
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stubblyhead posted:Really? I've got that model and I've found it to be really easy on the hands. It's this one (or an earlier model of it, he bought it in 2011 I think). http://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-Multi-Max-2-3-Amp-Oscillating-Tool-Kit-MM20-04H/202906969
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Jun 18, 2014 18:02
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What's the third thread-recommended cordless tool brand after Milwaukee and Makita? It's not Ryobi, is it? A friend is asking me for advice and the things he wants initially are a string trimmer, a hedge trimmer, and a small chainsaw; the first two tools put Milwaukee out of the running because they don't appear to make 'em.Cakefool posted:New blade, check for cracks in the arms, general look-see & lubricate. There isn't a lot to go wrong, as long as you're aware they're not a replacement for a bandsaw. What is a scroll saw like that intended for, in terms of "for this"/"not for that"? The local thrift store has two that look just like that, Craftsmans from at least 30 years ago IIRC, for about $20 apiece.
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Jun 18, 2014 20:34
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Splizwarf posted:What's the third thread-recommended cordless tool brand after Milwaukee and Makita? It's not Ryobi, is it? A friend is asking me for advice and the things he wants initially are a string trimmer, a hedge trimmer, and a small chainsaw; the first two tools put Milwaukee out of the running because they don't appear to make 'em. Scroll saws are used to cut intracate things for models or joints etc. generally thickness of 1" or less. Band saws are used for a bit "rougher" work or cutting boards / lumber and allowing some ability to turn the piece.
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Jun 18, 2014 20:59
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Splizwarf posted:What's the third thread-recommended cordless tool brand after Milwaukee and Makita? It's not Ryobi, is it? A friend is asking me for advice and the things he wants initially are a string trimmer, a hedge trimmer, and a small chainsaw; the first two tools put Milwaukee out of the running because they don't appear to make 'em. 1: DeWalt, I'd guess. 2: Scrollsaws are for small, fine-detail, curved cuts. They're basically motorised coping saws http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coping_saw - indeed, some of them take the same blades.
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Jun 18, 2014 21:53
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Splizwarf posted:What's the third thread-recommended cordless tool brand after Milwaukee and Makita? It's not Ryobi, is it? A friend is asking me for advice and the things he wants initially are a string trimmer, a hedge trimmer, and a small chainsaw; the first two tools put Milwaukee out of the running because they don't appear to make 'em. I've gotten a lot of use out of my ryobi chain saw. Their tools aren't as good as the pro brands but I haven't had any real probems with them.
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Jun 18, 2014 21:57
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I was given a new(-ish, but never used) #4 Stanley and I've cleaned it up, sharpened the blade etc. I started sanding the sole flat, but after several hours on 120 grit it's still noticably concave. I'm not going for the mirror finish or anything, but is it vital that I get it completely flat?
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Jun 18, 2014 22:22
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Dane posted:is it vital that I get it completely flat? Generally speaking, if the sole is getting sanded at the toe, mouth, and heel, it'll do well for 90% of what you want it flat for. If it's touching those three places, and your sanding surface is flat, the blade is coplanar to the sole (not exactly, but at least it does what we want). If you're going to use it as a smoothing plane you could probably go a little further, but I didn't, and mine works fine. Really, though, would you rather be spending time chasing a few thousandths around with sandpaper, or working wood? Use it for a while, and if it doesn't work the way you think it should, then go back and work on it. I would bet 90% of the problems people have with hand planes are because it isn't sharp enough, and another 9.9% is not having the iron set right.
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Jun 18, 2014 22:41
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One Legged Ninja posted:Generally speaking, if the sole is getting sanded at the toe, mouth, and heel, it'll do well for 90% of what you want it flat for. If it's touching those three places, and your sanding surface is flat, the blade is coplanar to the sole (not exactly, but at least it does what we want). If you're going to use it as a smoothing plane you could probably go a little further, but I didn't, and mine works fine. Really, though, would you rather be spending time chasing a few thousandths around with sandpaper, or working wood? Use it for a while, and if it doesn't work the way you think it should, then go back and work on it. I would bet 90% of the problems people have with hand planes are because it isn't sharp enough, and another 9.9% is not having the iron set right. Thanks, that's what I was hoping.
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Jun 18, 2014 22:49
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