|
And then theres the "Blow-your-head-off-if-you-look-at-them-wrong-when-seating-a-bead" horror that is Split Rims...
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 12:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 01:50 |
|
|
A lot of mountain bikes run tubeless too, for all the reasons you mentioned along with being able to run lower PSI without pinch flatting (when the tube gets pinched between tire and rim and develops a "snake bite" puncture). Our setups are a little different in that a few ounces of sealant (fancy tire slime) is added before the tire is inflated, so it plugs small holes that would normally cause a flat.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 13:48
|
|
|
BigHouseOfBooty posted:2011+ Toyota sienna minivans. The cartridge filter comes with two o-rings and a plastic drain spout. This has been the case since at least 2008. We have one and it's the most ridiculous system ever. loving plastic spout never wants to go in, snaps, or whatever and you still end up getting oil all over. I've thought of JB Welding the cover with the 3/8" drive hole to the rest of the canister just so I don't have to deal with it.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 14:30
|
|
|
Ferremit posted:And then theres the "Blow-your-head-off-if-you-look-at-them-wrong-when-seating-a-bead" horror that is Split Rims... I knew someone who had that exact thing happen.  poo poo's loving dangerous!
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 14:42
|
|
|
Ferremit posted:And then theres the "Blow-your-head-off-if-you-look-at-them-wrong-when-seating-a-bead" horror that is Split Rims... gently caress everything about that, that's why I'm shopping for bolt-together beadlock wheels for my big truck instead of putting the new tires I got for it on the split lockring wheels it has right now. Rather spend the $900-odd dollars on 6 wheels + shipping than risk my life. Split lockring wheels are good for one thing... fire pits. Also, smog legislation is retarded and I don't understand why NV is doing it. CA, I understand, since you couldn't see in front of you in the 70s... NV? Half your freaking state is owned by the feds and empty. WTF is the point? kastein fucked around with this message at 14:54 on May 30, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 14:52
|
|
|
Maybe Vegas has/had a problem with smog?
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 15:04
|
|
|
Californians moved here an voted it in, p much. Our public transit also sucks balls for everyone who isn't a tourist trying to get around the stripe.
DrPain fucked around with this message at 16:42 on May 30, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 15:16
|
|
|
kastein posted:gently caress everything about that, that's why I'm shopping for bolt-together beadlock wheels for my big truck instead of putting the new tires I got for it on the split lockring wheels it has right now. Best friend lost his grandpa to that years ago. gently caress those wheels, gently caress them hard.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 15:40
|
|
|
Just watched a video of a guy mounting a split lockring and it didn't look dangerous- what am I missing?
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 19:13
|
|
|
You're missing nothing at all. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2exMOT0-9M https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3_PMhBa_-c
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 19:14
|
|
|
cursedshitbox posted:You're missing nothing at all. That's basically what happened with his grandfather. Took off the top part of his skull. Yeah. gently caress those things.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 19:38
|
|
|
cursedshitbox posted:To add to Dr.pains gay rear end smogger post. To add to this, this only applies in "urban" counties, which is Clark and Washoe. If you happen to live out in the countryside, you can go hog wild since you never need to have a smog check or inspection or anything else ever.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 19:41
|
|
|
KozmoNaut posted:Of course, there are drawbacks to using tubes.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 20:22
|
|
|
kastein posted:gently caress everything about that, that's why I'm shopping for bolt-together beadlock wheels for my big truck instead of putting the new tires I got for it on the split lockring wheels it has right now. Same reason Colorado's getting lovely laws. Idiots who voted in all the poo poo that made Cali too expensive to live in are moving a little east, then voting the same dumb poo poo in. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dKlJJqHFfoQ Always use tire cages if you have to gently caress with split rims. There's no excuse not to, and it'll save your life and/or limbs. Liquid Communism fucked around with this message at 21:12 on May 30, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 21:10
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:There is another factor, which is when you're trying to run some combination of tubed and tubeless components mixed and matched - tubeless wheels often have a deeper profile to them, and this can distort an inner tube when fitted, and lower their life, while a tubeless tyre can have a rougher internal surface that would abrade a tube quite quickly. Also, while you may have a tube-type wheel that is airtight enough to run a tubeless tyre, it quite probably won't have the seating beads that a tubeless profile does, and so not retain the tyre as effectively in the event of very low pressure or a blowout. I have Bridgestone BT023s on my bike right now, and while they're meant for tubeless use, they also work great with tubes in them. I've never seen a tubeless motorcycle tire that was rough enough on the inside to abrade the tube. Besides, you change the tube along with the tires anyway. Tubes are cheap and it's nice to have peace of mind when you've only got two small contact patches keeping you going straight. Obviously you shouldn't run tubes in a set of tubeless tires on a tubeless rim, that would just be silly and not at all beneficial. The biggest drawback is that tubeless tires are stiffer, but any tire guy worth his salt can mount them just fine.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 21:45
|
|
|
Yeah, I'm coming at it from a car perspective, it's an issue that can cause headaches for people with classics or more truck-like vehicles.
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 21:52
|
|
|
 This morning I was greeted by our '99 Tahoe sitting in the shop on the battery cart. We haven't gotten around to pulling the transmission or seats out of it yet, and have just been moving it out of and into the shop every day, so of course this morning it's got a dead battery.   Then a miracle happened. A new customer drove up to the shop. We're tucked away in the back of a shopping center where the rent is nice and cheap, but we scarcely get any drive in customers. The vast majority of new customers either call in from my online ads, or hear about us through word of mouth. This particular gentleman is a contractor of sorts, and was in need of a smog check on his '98 (unsure of the age, didn't write an invoice) Chevy 3500 work truck. It's over the weight limit of what is considered "light duty" and therefore is a tailpipe emission probe smog, regardless of year. It came in running well enough to pass, and I checked his tire pressures and fluid levels while my father in law ran the smog test. Our simple yet thorough service impressed him when he only came in for a smog test, and he took a few business cards to recommend us to his fleet manager. I would love to pick up a few more fleet accounts, they always need work.  A 2007 Camry stopped in for a scheduled oil change, and we found their brakes to be worn down to about 10% in the front and 15% in the rear, which was enough for us to sell a brake job on both axles.   The aforementioned Junkman '93 Chevy C1500 pickup returned today for their previously diagnosed A/C compressor job. They also mentioned that a check engine light had illuminated itself this week. The code we retrieved was 32, indicating some kind of EGR fault. The old OBD1 systems didn't have much logic built into them and the codes are very basic. After testing the EGR valve we determined it to be stuck closed, and will be fixing that today, too.   After emptying the system of refrigerant into our A/C machine, we removed the A/C compressor, pictured above. The old compressor had been rattling and hammering, tearing itself apart internally and spreading metal flakes (aka The Black Death) throughout the system. This means we will also be replacing the expansion valve and accumulator, while flushing the condenser and evaporator in both directions with solvent, to ensure all the metal trash does not flow into the new compressor and foul it immediately.  Old vs new accumulator/drier here. I was unable to take any pictures of the expansion valve, but it was located behind the right hand headlamp, and required disassembly of the grille to replace.  Upon removal of the mechanical fan, we found the fan clutch bad and puking grease out of it, allowing the fan to slip more than it ought to. That was reducing the amount of airflow across the condenser, which is a likely culprit of the compressor failure. The fan clutch will also be getting replaced.   Flushing the evaporator core here, it's mounted in the dash behind the firewall, so to flush it one must take a pressurized bottle of flush solvent, squirt a bit of it into the line, then blast it with compressed shop air to force it through the evaporator. Yellow hose for solvent, blue hose for shop air. We placed a rag at the end of the other hose to catch the metal flakes coming out the opposite end. This process was repeated several times in both directions until The Black Death stopped coming out of it. Once the evaporator core was clean, the same flush procedure was performed on the condenser.  The Black Death pictured here. It's not actually black. These fine metal shavings would spell instant doom for a new compressor if not flushed properly. The majority of these metal shavings collect in the expansion valve and accumulator/drier, hence their replacement, but even then, the evaporator core and condenser took 5 flushes in either direction before they were finally clean.  The new compressor was installed with new o-rings, along with the new accumulator/drier, fan clutch, expansion valve and EGR valve. The latter two of which are not pictured, my apologies. The system was vacuumed and charged to capacity, 2.5LB of R-134A refrigerant, and we injected oil and dye for lubrication and leak checks. In an effort to stay vigilant and give my techs every available way to test for leaks, I picked up a bottle of this soapy leak detection stuff. The vehicle was cranked up, the A/C turned onto full recirculating blast, and we sprayed the very slimy leak detection fluid at all the A/C connections we had been working on. No leaks were found, and the vents now produce a frosty cold gust in the cab.  We wanted to make sure we got the dilution right on the leak detection soap, so we tried it out on a known leaky shop air hose. I'd say it works pretty good!
|
|
#
?
May 30, 2014 23:52
|
|
|
Inner tube chat: You'll often find tubes on things like earth movers and tractors too, and thats mostly because of ballasting in the tyres. If you dont fit a tube to a tyre, you have to start adding anti-corrosives to the water mix in the tyre, like Glycol coolant, to stop the rims rusting, but thats REALLY not good for your crops or the environment if you stake a tyre and pour 400-500L of coolant out onto the ground, so you stick a tube in, fill it with plain water and off you go!
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2014 00:03
|
|
|
mungtor posted:This has been the case since at least 2008. We have one and it's the most ridiculous system ever. loving plastic spout never wants to go in, snaps, or whatever and you still end up getting oil all over. I've thought of JB Welding the cover with the 3/8" drive hole to the rest of the canister just so I don't have to deal with it. The easier answer is to get a Toyota specific cartridge filter cup. http://www.toolfetch.com/cta-manufa...aO3E2HtzUvD_BwE There are two different sizes so check so you get the one you need. It takes off the cartridge and you dont have to drain out poo poo. Its a little messy, but lets be honest. Your changing oil. Your going to get dirty.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2014 00:19
|
|
|
Preoptopus posted:You're changing oil. You're going to get dirty. Speak for yourself. I, for one, have mastered the art of the 15 minute stainless oil change.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2014 00:27
|
|
|
I don't have to change my oil, its a continual thing where I just add more and throw a new filter on every month.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2014 00:32
|
|
|
Beach Bum posted:Speak for yourself. I, for one, have mastered the art of the 15 minute stainless oil change. Well clearly you dont drive a cavalier where you have to contort your arm through the tie rod hole in the frame to get to the filter all up in the not at all oil covered engine.  Or newer ford trucks have a run off "gutter" for the filter oil. So you set your pan all under it all ready, and then the oil comes out of a completely different run off gutter and you realize there are two different gutters put at the perfect distance apart so its larger than your pan. Oh and then no matter how much brake clean you blast into that bitch, you will still have the customer complaining of a small oil spot on their garage floor. And then there is the all time favorite stripped drain plug that starts leaking out oil the second you break it open all over your wrench/ratchet and promptly down your arm.
Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 00:36 on May 31, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 31, 2014 00:32
|
|
|
What I don't get is why some manufacturers put the cartridge type filters on the bottom of the motor. Most Europeans have it up top and it's way, way cleaner. I had to do an change on one of those previously mentioned giant toyota vans, and been though I drained the filter, I still got a deluge of oil when I pulled the filter cap off.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2014 01:16
|
|
|
cursedshitbox posted:I don't have to change my oil, its a continual thing where I just add more and throw a new filter on every month. rover.txt
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2014 01:21
|
|
|
Preoptopus posted:Well clearly you dont drive a cavalier where you have to contort your arm through the tie rod hole in the frame to get to the filter all up in the not at all oil covered engine. Uggghhhhh the ford trucks. At Sears I replaced literally hundreds of drain plugs on those things. Mustangs, too, Panther car, Tauruses, anything with a Modular or Duratec engine, it's like the drain plug threads were a mechanical fuse to prevent overtightening damage to the oil pan (though sometimes that was hosed up, too.) Every single time, from the CSAs: "Well why'd you break it? It's got an o-ring, can't you just thread it in and seal around it with tamper seal?"
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2014 01:29
|
|
|
My first car was a '71 Toyota Corona MkII sedan. with the awesomely unreliable 8-RC engine. It was impossible to do a clean oil change. Why, you ask?  Filter mounted seal-side down.  Good thing it was a non-interference engine, since it blew timing chains faster than a Holland Tunnel whore PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:14 on May 31, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 31, 2014 04:12
|
|
|
Ugh, if that cleaning solvent is the stuff I think it is, it's a bitch to work with and smells awful, but it gets the job done. I'm surprised with all the A/C work you guys do you don't have a dedicated nitrogen bottle for cleans like that. Also that soap stuff is a lifesaver. Makes it really easy/obvious to find stuff. I've never seen that kind you have to mix before though, I've always used this:http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Calgon-418...=Blue+leak+soap Makes nice big bubbles and it's got a long shot, so it's great for tight places. Oil Change chat, I feel weird doing oil changes on my Jeep now. I seem to have broken it's Chassis Lubrication System, so now I have to actually drain the oil. 
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2014 04:30
|
|
|
cursedshitbox posted:I don't have to change my oil, its a continual thing where I just add more and throw a new filter on every month. If it's not dripping, time to add more oil.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2014 05:16
|
|
|
Kill-9 posted:If it's not dripping, time to add more oil. sounds like a Honda motor to me.
|
|
#
?
May 31, 2014 22:32
|
|
|
SouthsideSaint posted:sounds like a Toyota motor to me. Fixed for accuracy.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2014 01:03
|
|
|
I have a VW pushing 300k that doesnt leak any oil at all. It has to be an anomaly.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2014 01:16
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:My first car was a '71 Toyota Corona MkII sedan. with the awesomely unreliable 8-RC engine. Terrible oil changes seems to be a Toyota thing. The F-series engines in the Land Cruisers are the same way. Thankfully they take a standard Ford filter so you can get a relocation kit at any good parts store. You can also get double-size filters, dual filter mounts, and the 2F block still has the castings for the F oil passages on the other side of the crank...I know somebody whose 2F now takes 12 quarts instead of the factory 8.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2014 01:50
|
|
|
F series is a stovebolt chevy copy so that sort of isn't fair. One of the worst is the 1KD hiluxes where they go to the trouble of putting the oil catch thingy below the filter, and they put in a little pipe for the drain tube to go on...and then neglected to actually put in a drain tube so it just goes all over the side of the engine anyway.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2014 05:51
|
|
|
Fart Pipe posted:I have a VW pushing 300k that doesnt leak any oil at all. It has to be an anomaly. Does it leak electricity
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2014 07:18
|
|
|
Some days I'm glad I work mostly on Bobcats. Open the back door and the engine oil filter, fuel filter, and hydraulic oil filters are all right there. They also all have a factory drain hose installed so I can drop it directly into a pan. And a hand pump on the fuel pickup line for priming. Doing literally anything else to a Bobcat requires you to be some form of contortionist. I spent almost 2 hours yesterday changing one 3' length of heater hose.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2014 07:34
|
|
|
My brief experience working on a Komatsu digger leads me to believe that all earthmoving machinery is like this. Why did they have to route the fuel lines through the most ridiculous crannies? To protect them from enemy fire?
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2014 07:40
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Fixed for accuracy. IDK, most Hondas drink some oil, especially if you run them at high engine speeds a lot (and especially with VTEC). My old Tercel only drank oil because its valve stem seals were entirely notional. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2014 10:19
|
|
|
Liquid Communism posted:Same reason Colorado's getting lovely laws. Idiots who voted in all the poo poo that made Cali too expensive to live in are moving a little east, then voting the same dumb poo poo in. Yeah gently caress split rings forever. One of those things let go while it was getting filled up (in the safety cage). I was in the other end of the bay (probably a good 50 feet away) getting my truck QA'ed before rolling out for training. It was only a 5ton tire but the *bang* was loud enough that I dove for the concrete because I thought a loving stray artillery round had just hit the building. I wasn't the only one kissing cement. It didn't bow the cage but that was because the cage was sized for up to HEMMT (giant Oshkosh 8x8 cargo trucks) tires, but it scared the poo poo out of everyone.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2014 12:02
|
|
|
Advent Horizon posted:Terrible oil changes seems to be a Toyota thing. Yup. My 4Runner has the filter mountee nearly horizontal and tucked up behind the exhaust manifold on the driver's side. There is also a skid pan directly under it, so you have to remove the skid pan, somehow reroute the flow of oil (I use a scrap of cardboard folded like a trough), or just mop a shitload of oil off the skid pan. Removing the skid pan only takes removing 5 bolts, but making the cardboard trough is way easier.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2014 18:22
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 01:50 |
|
|
bandman posted:Yup. My 4Runner has the filter mountee nearly horizontal and tucked up behind the exhaust manifold on the driver's side. There is also a skid pan directly under it, so you have to remove the skid pan, somehow reroute the flow of oil (I use a scrap of cardboard folded like a trough), or just mop a shitload of oil off the skid pan. Removing the skid pan only takes removing 5 bolts, but making the cardboard trough is way easier. The 3S-GE (in fact all the S code engines) have the filter tucked halfway underneath the exhaust manifold, and the engines are mounted at a ~30 degree angle with the head leaning towards the firewall, so you bathe the whole side of the engine whenever you pull the filter. I've seen some later engines with a stamped steel drain trough in junkyards, but always forget to grab one.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2014 21:25
|
|
