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Rust is a non-issue here in Phoenix for the most part, which is a nice change of pace from Vermont. That little mini-rant is mildly concerning, but I cruised around in an 88 Toyota FX for awhile so I'm used to being in a deathbox. Admittedly I wasn't going to wheel the FX so the lack of rollover reinforcement worries me a bit. Is that just with the '92, or is that something that is common throughout the XJ?
Quite A Tool fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Jun 4, 2014 |
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Jun 4, 2014 19:33
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Does anyone have beadlocks or beadlock recommendations? The options available in 16x8 with a 4.5 in backspace are pretty limited. I'm considering going custom with rings added by OMF but its hard to get a price out of them as to what the conversion would cost.
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Jun 4, 2014 19:37
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Quite A Tool posted:Is that just with the '92, or is that something that is common throughout the XJ?
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Jun 4, 2014 20:15
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Balls. Replaced the wires, did the cap and rotor while I was in there, and she starts up fine now... ...but doesn't idle. I'm out of time to fight with this today and still make it to work tonight.
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Jun 4, 2014 21:03
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Drive it around the block a couple times, get it up to temp. Bet it relearns its idle just fine. They do that.
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Jun 4, 2014 22:09
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Oil pressure gauge in my 88xj is pegged out at max regardless of engine on/off or ignition status. Googling seems to indicate that's a bad "oil pressure switch/oil pressure sender". Yea/nay? Looks like my local auto zone has the correct model for a non-idiot light gauge display for $16.
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Jun 4, 2014 22:29
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I love having real, honest to goodness gauges that tell me what is happening.
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Jun 5, 2014 01:11
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wilfredmerriweathr posted:I love having real, honest to goodness gauges that tell me what is happening. Bought the last oil pressure switch Autozone had and installed it this afternoon. Turns out the previous person to replace the unit didn't want the added $10 of the correct gauge-specific part, instead opting for the cheaper idiot light model. Gauge works nicely now 
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Jun 5, 2014 02:45
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 Crossposting from Kastein's thread. Any opinions on this 79 CJ5? I want something cheap with no top this summer, and it looks to me like the old jeeps are a better deal than 1st gen broncos or scouts, rust wise.
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Jun 5, 2014 07:50
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Vim Fuego posted:I want something cheap with no top this summer If that's all you want to do with it, it's a drat fine vehicle. Drove one for a few weeks out west, never took it wheeling other than pretty flat desert.
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Jun 5, 2014 13:22
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I don't know anything about Jeeps, nor am I particularly in the market at the moment but I had thought of replacing our 2nd car and truck with an SUV. It would be used as a second vehicle, hauling our two kids around, used fairly infrequently, and eventually I'd need it to tow a decent sized trailer for ATVs, home supplies, etc. I saw this one locally on craigslist, it seems like it would be a pretty good deal all things considered. I've always liked the looks of the cherokee with body colored bumpers and grill. Ideally I could get a crew cab pickup truck to do this duty but if getting a clean and reliable Jeep SUV that does the same thing for about half the cost would be very appealing.  Would a cherokee or grand cherokee be a good choice? I know the 4.0l are thirsty, and I'm fine with that. I value reliability and useable power over fuel consumption, so mid-teens would be fine. What are the big things to look for other than rust?
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Jun 5, 2014 15:02
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Crap. Hit a speed bump slightly faster than usual on the way to work and the YJs front end came down pretty hard. Now I've got a knocking sound while turning at low speed. Google suggests it's a sway bar bushing and from the various forum posts I've read that sounds like it but is there anything else I should check while I'm poking around at the suspension?
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Jun 5, 2014 15:15
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kastein posted:Drive it around the block a couple times, get it up to temp. Bet it relearns its idle just fine. Yeah, she's fine. Drove a mile or so pretending to have a manual without a clutch pedal, then she popped right back to idle after I stopped for gas. Starts and runs like a charm on the new plugs/wires/rotor and cap. They re-graveled the road to work about an hour before I left today, so I celebrated with some nice hills at ludicrous speed in 4-hi. Now I remember why I keep fixing this thing. 
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Jun 5, 2014 16:33
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I put on some new rockers last night - this'll give me a little more clearance and protection over the ones I had before. These are Hard Rock 4x4 sliders that I got for $50. They're $300 new, pretty good score. I still need to re-paint them and get the proper counter-sunk hardware, but they'll work for now with the grade 5 hardware I had. I'm hoping to flip my old sliders for about $100  
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Jun 5, 2014 16:41
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dreesemonkey posted:I don't know anything about Jeeps, nor am I particularly in the market at the moment but I had thought of replacing our 2nd car and truck with an SUV. It would be used as a second vehicle, hauling our two kids around, used fairly infrequently, and eventually I'd need it to tow a decent sized trailer for ATVs, home supplies, etc. Cherokee: yes. Grand cherokee: no. Unless you buy a WK/WK2 supposedly, or enjoy replacing/rebuilding finicky chryco autos and a host of other problems. I get 22mpg out of my 4.0L when I'm tooling around on the highway at 70 not driving like a dick. If you ever see less than 15mpg, you have a bad sensor or five, I get 15mpg driving full hammer down. That being said, 99 is the best year for those, 5100 feels a bit high though. But I'm used to paying 500-1k for every vehicle in basket case condition and have never paid more than 2500 for anything.
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Jun 5, 2014 17:00
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kastein posted:Cherokee: yes. Thanks for the info, good to know the grand cherokees of that era are worth avoiding. I didn't think $5100 was outrageous considering it looks to be well maintained and more or less rust free, which is fairly unheard of around here. It's tempting, but I don't know that I'm ready to drop our two vehicles and go hunting for a trailer all at once.
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Jun 5, 2014 17:37
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dreesemonkey posted:I don't know anything about Jeeps, nor am I particularly in the market at the moment but I had thought of replacing our 2nd car and truck with an SUV. It would be used as a second vehicle, hauling our two kids around, used fairly infrequently, and eventually I'd need it to tow a decent sized trailer for ATVs, home supplies, etc. Looks like a pretty nice XJ. I have a '99 that's similar (but dark green) and love it. The only thing to realize is that it's 'Jeep reliable' not necessarily 'Honda/Toyota reliable'. Little things will probably break or have issues, like window switches or front speakers. The engine, transmission, and drivetrain should be rock solid though. Just keep up on the regular maintenance like oil changes and it should run another couple hundred thousand miles. The price isn't too bad in my opnion--maybe a little high but the miles are really low for the age. I picked up my '99 with 140k miles for $3500 (was asking $4000) about 5 years ago if it helps compare.
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Jun 5, 2014 17:46
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I changed out my leaky radiator and my cracked exhaust manifold today. Got some nice sunburns as well. It was hard to spot, but I found the crack.
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Jun 6, 2014 04:46
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Just did front shocks and steering stabilizer.. nothing like working on your car at 10pm in an ice rink. Braking is improved and cornering is so much better, now for the dreaded back shocks. Didn't use a single drop of pb blaster either.
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Jun 6, 2014 04:53
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Just finished completely rebuilding the flexy (not so much) section of the rear hatch harness for my XJ. Used proper sealant butt splices and MIL-22759 wire, it ought to last at least another decade or two and I have zero intention of being the owner by then  7 of the 13 wires were broken. No wonder my rear wiper, license plate light, CHMSL, defrost grid, and hatch lock solenoid had been wigging the gently caress out for the last 6 months. Every time I went to debug them, they'd start working again, to the point that I got pulled over a few months ago for the license plate lamp being out, got home, and it was working when I got home so I thought I was lied to for a pretense stop. I even bought a new wiper motor and installed it, it worked perfectly, then I closed the hatch and halfway home it didn't work again. Pictures tomorrow when I'm not several hours late for bed.
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Jun 6, 2014 04:56
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Tire question: the new 30" STTs that I have on the rear of my XJ are a full ~1.2 or so inches larger in diameter than the old ones (still with plenty of tread, at least by passenger car standards) on the front as the jeep currently sits, or at least according to my ancient and extremely lovely tape measure. I know the tread is way deeper on the back ones, but I have to think part of it is the fact that the front have way more weight on them. If I was going to go offroading, would simply airing up the fronts until they are closer in diameter to the rears work? Possibly along with airing down the backs? I don't really *need* to use 4wd at all during the summers but I get the feeling I'm going to be on some forest roads sooner or later and want to have a little fun in 4wd.
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Jun 6, 2014 05:14
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mod sassinator posted:Looks like a pretty nice XJ. I have a '99 that's similar (but dark green) and love it. The only thing to realize is that it's 'Jeep reliable' not necessarily 'Honda/Toyota reliable'. Little things will probably break or have issues, like window switches or front speakers. The engine, transmission, and drivetrain should be rock solid though. Just keep up on the regular maintenance like oil changes and it should run another couple hundred thousand miles. The price isn't too bad in my opnion--maybe a little high but the miles are really low for the age. I picked up my '99 with 140k miles for $3500 (was asking $4000) about 5 years ago if it helps compare. I've got a '99 with 160k myself, black fenders/body colored grill. Picked her up for $2500 with minor mechanical problems, and I'm working through them as we speak. Should be well under $4k total with repairs and new rubber by the time I'm done.
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Jun 6, 2014 11:01
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wilfredmerriweathr posted:Tire question: the new 30" STTs that I have on the rear of my XJ are a full ~1.2 or so inches larger in diameter than the old ones (still with plenty of tread, at least by passenger car standards) on the front as the jeep currently sits, or at least according to my ancient and extremely lovely tape measure. I know the tread is way deeper on the back ones, but I have to think part of it is the fact that the front have way more weight on them. If I was going to go offroading, would simply airing up the fronts until they are closer in diameter to the rears work? Possibly along with airing down the backs? Yeah, that will be fine. Rolling radius is actually more important than diameter, park it on a hard flat level surface and measure height to each wheel center, then adjust accordingly. Don't go too low or too high on the pressure. If you can't adjust for it with pressure I would recommend getting new tires for the other end as well and keeping the two old ones as spares.
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Jun 6, 2014 13:12
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mod sassinator posted:Looks like a pretty nice XJ. I have a '99 that's similar (but dark green) and love it. The only thing to realize is that it's 'Jeep reliable' not necessarily 'Honda/Toyota reliable'. Little things will probably break or have issues, like window switches or front speakers. The engine, transmission, and drivetrain should be rock solid though. Just keep up on the regular maintenance like oil changes and it should run another couple hundred thousand miles. The price isn't too bad in my opnion--maybe a little high but the miles are really low for the age. I picked up my '99 with 140k miles for $3500 (was asking $4000) about 5 years ago if it helps compare. Well despite not being in the market, I guess I'm going to go look at it tomorrow. Anything I should look out for? Smoking or rough shifts or anything along those lines that would indicate larger issues? I'm OK with jeep reliability, we've been dumping money into our '94 ranger and '99 avalon just due to age so this would replace both those vehicles I think and come close to breaking even. It would probably be driven less than 3k miles a year. Though I would then have to spend another $$$$ on acquiring a trailer fairly immediately. They claim no rust or accidents and it was just inspected last week so those were all positive, anyway.
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Jun 6, 2014 16:56
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'99 is one of the best years to get, so there's not much to look for with trouble areas. Yeah just check for typical stuff like no smoking, no bad sounds, has some maintenance records, etc. Look around the valve cover to see how bad it might be leaking oil (they all leak a little). The rear main seal is also another common oil leak--look under the car to see if there are any big oil spots. A small leak of a few drops a day is 'normal', more than that and you might need to replace those. I would also get it up to highway speeds and look for any vibrations in the pedals or howling sounds that might indicate a u-joint going bad. Give it some sharp full lock turns at low speed to listen for any scratching or popping sounds that bad bearings or u-joints might make too. Put it in 4 high and make sure it drives (try not to turn on pavement though). You can test 4 low just moving forward/backward too--be aware it's normal for it to sometimes not let you into 4 low without moving the car forward/backward a bit to line up the gears (you need to be stopped and in neutral to move into 4 low IIRC).
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Jun 6, 2014 17:32
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dreesemonkey posted:Well despite not being in the market, I guess I'm going to go look at it tomorrow. Anything I should look out for? Smoking or rough shifts or anything along those lines that would indicate larger issues? I'm OK with jeep reliability, we've been dumping money into our '94 ranger and '99 avalon just due to age so this would replace both those vehicles I think and come close to breaking even. It would probably be driven less than 3k miles a year. Though I would then have to spend another $$$$ on acquiring a trailer fairly immediately. In a 99: The 4.0 is still bulletproof. 00 saw the introduction of the lovely one. The AW4 auto is bulletproof. I have blown up 2 and was working on a third, but I do really, really bad things to them. You can generally run one dry on fluid at least once or twice and then put another 30-50k miles on it before they blow up. Tow in 3rd, not Drive, put a cooler on it and maybe change the fluid and it'll last forever. This is the transmission that is rated by Aisin for 450 foot pounds input... the 4.0 only produces 235. They can be built to handle 600 easily. People put them in 1000hp Supras, apparently, too. The NP231 transfer case is bulletproof. Keep it topped off with ATF and forget about it. Frontend won't blow up unless you put at least 32" tires on it and beat the poo poo out of it. I'm keeping mine alive with 33" tires, a locker, and aftermarket axleshafts/ujoints, no more. Rearend is either a d35 (if you have ABS definitely, maybe if you don't) or an 8.25 (if you don't have ABS and get lucky.) Either will generally handle normal use just fine, the d35 will not tolerate harsh treatment (burnouts, shock loading) on slightly oversize tires, the 8.25 is perfectly fine with up to 35" tires if you put a set of alloys in it. I've been unable to kill one with 33" tires and I've been trying for 4 years. Basically, there's very little to break, especially if you leave it stock. A few flaws, though: The ac evap core and heater core are likely going to die in the next few years, if they haven't already. It's an 8 hour service by the book, I did it in 4 and I'm going to race the clock on the next one just to see how fast I can get it done. The rear driveshaft design is known to cause slight vibrations at stock height occasionally, especially with worn leafsprings. The leafsprings like to sag with age and use. The flex sections of the wiring harnesses to the front doors and rear hatch WILL fail eventually. Been there done that, I've fixed all 3 on mine now. The plastic bracket that holds up the back of the center console is probably in 4-5 pieces by now. They all break, the center console gets a little floppy without it but not that bad. They do get deathwobble if the front suspension is worn, the tires are unbalanced or unevenly worn, the shocks are blown out, and/or the alignment is wonky. Start replacing parts if this happens. You can fix drat near anything on one for under $150 in parts and most things take an afternoon with some practice and a writeup to follow. Parts are everywhere because they made literally 3 million of the drat things.
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Jun 6, 2014 21:38
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Gah, don't remind me. I still need to fix the wiring harness to my driver's door, my speaker is out and the power window/lock controls are getting twitchy at certain angles of door opening.
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Jun 6, 2014 23:29
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Vim Fuego posted:
Bought it. drat loud on the highway. It does do 75mph, haven't tried for faster. Gonna change all the fluids tomorrow. Has power steering but no disc brakes. Seems to stop ok. I am very much enjoying driving a vehicle with no top in the sun.
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Jun 7, 2014 02:21
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 Went out riding today. When I got back to the jeep to go home it wouldn't start. The battery and starter are good. I'm not sure what's going on, but it's been doing this from time to time. After cleaning the ground connection I gave up and push started it.
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Jun 7, 2014 04:51
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Try tapping the starter gently with a hammer or wrench. If it suddenly works, the solenoid or brushes are giving out.
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Jun 7, 2014 12:24
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Anyone know how to diagnose post tune-up problems? I changed spark plugs, cables, rotor, and dist cap and my 4.2L YJ's pulling significantly less. I already changed spark plugs in case they were fouled and they weren't, and I thought it might have been the dialectric grease I put on the dist cap's edge so it would seal, and after a clean up there wasn't a noticeable improvement. Had some paint chips on a couple of posts I cleaned up, but I'm just not sure what it can be.
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Jun 7, 2014 17:51
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kastein posted:Try tapping the starter gently with a hammer or wrench. The starter and battery are both new and work great. Something else is going on.
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Jun 7, 2014 19:38
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Check the cabling to the starter, too. If it's corroded or otherwise damaged, it'll cause problems. I had an intermittent starting problem on a friend's Honda that was a complete pain to track down, ended up being the nice new terminals on the starter cable the PO had fitted had been fitted straight to the manky, corroded end of the cable. Snipped an inch off and refitted, back to cranking every time.
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Jun 7, 2014 20:02
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Steiler Drep posted:Anyone know how to diagnose post tune-up problems? I changed spark plugs, cables, rotor, and dist cap and my 4.2L YJ's pulling significantly less. I already changed spark plugs in case they were fouled and they weren't, and I thought it might have been the dialectric grease I put on the dist cap's edge so it would seal, and after a clean up there wasn't a noticeable improvement. Had some paint chips on a couple of posts I cleaned up, but I'm just not sure what it can be. Are you sure that all plugs are firing? You can do the screwdriver-to-the-ear trick while it is running to make sure.
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Jun 7, 2014 20:04
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InitialDave posted:Check the cabling to the starter, too. If it's corroded or otherwise damaged, it'll cause problems. I had an intermittent starting problem on a friend's Honda that was a complete pain to track down, ended up being the nice new terminals on the starter cable the PO had fitted had been fitted straight to the manky, corroded end of the cable. Snipped an inch off and refitted, back to cranking every time. Yeah, I need to get some new batteries for my multimeter and figure out what the hell is going on because everything looks good on the surface.
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Jun 7, 2014 20:42
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My death wobble got way way wayyyy worse after I replaced my front shocks and steering stabilizer. New track bar goes in tomorrow.. followed by new tires.. followed by alignment. On the plus side I think it shook my oil sending unit into working again! e: New track bar in.. still death wobble. This is frustrating. Looking for new tires now.. Polish fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Jun 8, 2014 |
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Jun 7, 2014 21:01
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Don't you hate it when people up their tire size and don't match the spare? Vim Fuego posted:Bought it. FUCKYEAH - More pics when you get a chance. I can always go for CJ porn. Vim Fuego posted:
 YUP! Even with my ginger affliction, I just HAD to drive home with the top down today. It was too perfect. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Jun 8, 2014 |
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Jun 8, 2014 20:38
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Is there any downside to slathering never-seize on every bolt and mating surface that I come in contact while taking poo poo apart? Every job that I have done has taken significantly longer due to fused rusted parts. Pickle fork for the track bar? Pfft... had to take the mount off, heat it, and then bash on it with a hammer.. after trying every pickle fork/crowbar/etc for an hour.
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Jun 8, 2014 21:06
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kastein posted:In a 99: Thanks for the invaluable information (you too mod sassinator). I went to look at the cherokee yesterday morning first thing. Super super clean, as mint as you could expect a '99 vehicle to be considering living in the rust belt. It was garage kept, the only rust was very slight surface rust on the leaf springs (so basically nothing). The guy was really nice, it was an extra vehicle that he didn't need and his third cherokee that he's owned. The interior was also super clean. We ended up passing on it without even driving it, I didn't want to waste the guy's time. When using carseats in cars that didn't have the latch system, you pull out the carseat all the way and let it ratchet back into place. This let's it securely hold the carseat in place. For whatever reason, this Cherokee's rear seatbelts wouldn't do this, so when we were putting my son's carseat in it to take a spin, it wasn't keeping the seat secured. If it weren't for that, I probably would have bought it. It was in beautiful condition. The valve cover gasket was leaking, like apparently they all do, and he said it did leak oil very slighty, again normal. I think we could have come up with a solution to the seatbelt/carseat issue, but I just don't think it was meant to be and I'm ok with that. Someone is going to get a super super clean cherokee, anyway.
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Jun 8, 2014 21:15
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Polish posted:Is there any downside to slathering never-seize on every bolt and mating surface that I come in contact while taking poo poo apart? Every job that I have done has taken significantly longer due to fused rusted parts. So no, there isn't.
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Jun 8, 2014 22:08
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