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It is a junkyard engine, but I'm reusing all the ignition stuff off the old one, which worked great. I guess it wouldn't hurt to check. The 9th gen 1ZZ-FEs don't have EGR.
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Jun 16, 2014 18:39
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Gumbel2Gumbel posted:03 Corolla here. My tires are pretty low mileage (like 50-60K), but they have light cracking around the middle side wall and also up by the tread. I checked the DOT 4 digit date and if I read it right they were made in march 06. I'm assuming after 8.5 years it's time to replace them. How bad of an idea is getting tires at costco so I don't have to deal with waiting for tires from tire rack and then negotiating with someone to put tires on? 50-60k is not "low" mileage for tires, that's a pretty damned decent lifetime. But yes, by age they are very much done and if you have any visible cracking on a tire that old, it needs to be replaced. Those Generals seem decent enough, but the one thing to remember with TireRack is that you still need to pay shipping, plus installation / balancing / disposal fees. Walmart is actually the cheapest place around for the installs since they're the only company that hasn't jacked their install fee ($5/tire for most tires) to try and offset TireRack's low pricing. Of course, then you're taking your chances with a Walmart tire tech. Bovril Delight posted:If you are just looking to get some cheap all seasons Costco is going to be great on price. I've found that Costco's pricing is decent at best on tires when comparing brand-to-brand - but they carry a very limited selection of tires in any one size. They didn't even carry anything at all that they would install on my Volvo 240 (right size, wrong weight rating). They also tend to stick to the mid-high priced brands. Nothing wrong with that, but you can often find a perfectly good new tire from a lower-priced brand (i.e. Kumho, Hankook, General) for much less elsewhere. If you have a Discount Tire / America's Tire nearby... they've set their pricing (once you account for installation and shipping) to be very competitive with Tire Rack. I like Tire Rack a lot but I rarely order from them anymore because Discount's pricing is close enough and having local support is a nice thing to have on a tire purchase. Huxley posted:Manual says 110k, but I didn't know that until just now, so I deserve the sass. In some cases the official recommendation is stretched due to asinine state laws (no, California, mandating a 100k+ interval does not magically make a rubber belt more reliable) with an "inspection" at 70k. The reality is that after 100k / a decade of service, any belt is in much worse shape than when it was new. Pushing the interval doesn't make it cost any less, but greatly increases your risk of a much more expensive repair.
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Jun 16, 2014 18:52
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SlimManFat posted:It is a junkyard engine, but I'm reusing all the ignition stuff off the old one, which worked great. I guess it wouldn't hurt to check. The 9th gen 1ZZ-FEs don't have EGR. VCT/VVT (etc) then, for emissions control? Did you time the engine when you swapped it in? It could be off by a few degrees which could also explain the misfires...
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Jun 16, 2014 18:54
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IOwnCalculus posted:In some cases the official recommendation is stretched due to asinine state laws (no, California, mandating a 100k+ interval does not magically make a rubber belt more reliable) with an "inspection" at 70k. The reality is that after 100k / a decade of service, any belt is in much worse shape than when it was new. Pushing the interval doesn't make it cost any less, but greatly increases your risk of a much more expensive repair. Yeah, when a timing belt in an interference engine becomes a timing whip, it's a "do not pass go, do not collect $200, go directly to junkyard, car over, buy new engine to put in and don't make that mistake again" fuckup. Replace em on schedule... or even a little sooner.
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Jun 16, 2014 18:57
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IOwnCalculus posted:In some cases the official recommendation is stretched due to asinine state laws (no, California, mandating a 100k+ interval does not magically make a rubber belt more reliable) with an "inspection" at 70k. The reality is that after 100k / a decade of service, any belt is in much worse shape than when it was new. Pushing the interval doesn't make it cost any less, but greatly increases your risk of a much more expensive repair. So it would be reasonable to take it to a place and say, "Replace all the belts, timing included, please and thank you." And that would put me in pretty good shape going forward to handle things as they come up rather than sitting on an obvious incoming problem?
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Jun 16, 2014 18:58
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06 civics have a timing chain, but I'm pretty sure 04 still uses belt. Get that changed asap, and plugs and trans fluid if you haven't yet, and serpentine belts on both cars. Look at other poo poo like cleaning your MAF, checking filters including cabin air, etc.
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Jun 16, 2014 19:27
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PaintVagrant posted:06 civics have a timing chain, but I'm pretty sure 04 still uses belt. Get that changed asap, and plugs and trans fluid if you haven't yet, and serpentine belts on both cars. Look at other poo poo like cleaning your MAF, checking filters including cabin air, etc. I'd add (assuming it hasn't been done) changing the brake fluid, the coolant, and inspecting every rubber part like the engine mounts, suspension boots, brake flex lines, etc.
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Jun 16, 2014 19:38
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Huxley posted:So it would be reasonable to take it to a place and say, "Replace all the belts, timing included, please and thank you." And that would put me in pretty good shape going forward to handle things as they come up rather than sitting on an obvious incoming problem? Looks like PaintVagrant is right - I forgot that the '06 Civic was a new generation and it looks like it got the K-series across the board, which uses a timing chain instead. The 2006 Civic should need nothing other than regularly scheduled maintenance to keep it trucking. Did Honda have the full-on Maintenance Minder back in '06 or just an oil life monitor? But really, if a K-series isn't leaking, and isn't running badly, just keep an eye on rubber bits (belts, hoses, tires) for any leaking, cracking, or swelling. You might be due for a transmission fluid change. On the '04 Civic, you absolutely have a belt and an interference engine. It's also an engine where the water pump is either much easier to do with the belt off, or only possible to do with the belt off. Either way, a proper preventative-maintenance approach to the timing belt on that car should include a new timing belt, new idler/tensioner, new water pump, new cam seal, and new crank seal. I'd also want to put in fresh coolant, probably new radiator hoses, and if the valvecover needs to come off then you'll need a new valvecover gasket too. If you DIY'd that, a kit containing the belt / tensioner / seals / waterpump only runs around $100. A shop is obviously going to charge a bit more on parts, plus their labor. However, especially if the car isn't running badly, this is also a job that you should be able to get a shop to quote you over the phone so you know what to expect.
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Jun 16, 2014 19:42
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I think only the si is a k series motor, the posters car should be an r18. Otherwise I think you are dead on, I'm pretty sure it has the full maintenance minder but don't quote me on it.
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Jun 16, 2014 19:56
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Whoops double post.
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Jun 16, 2014 20:26
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I'm planning on cleaning my MAF sensor based on the advice I received in my last post. I found a MAF cleaner (http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05110-Mass-Sensor-Cleaner/dp/B000J19XSA) and I'm wondering if I should get it or what you guys recommend instead.
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Jun 16, 2014 20:29
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Thats the stuff I bought at autozone, and it was the only brand they had. Its fine.
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Jun 16, 2014 21:08
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SlimManFat posted:It is a junkyard engine, but I'm reusing all the ignition stuff off the old one, which worked great. I guess it wouldn't hurt to check. The 9th gen 1ZZ-FEs don't have EGR. Definitely give everything ignition a second look; O2 sensors, true to their name, only measure how much free oxygen is in the exhaust stream. Even if the oxygen is there because the mixture didn't burn due to bad ignition, the sensor only sees the oxygen and reports it as lean, even if the engine happens to be running pig rich independently of the misfire. That brings up a point, did you re-use your old good O2 sensors or the ones from the junkyard motor? If the sensor's bad and reporting lean all the time, the engine could be dumping a bunch of extra fuel in to try and compensate, which if bad enough can lead to the misfire. Access to a scan tool so you could look at the fuel trims would be very useful here. Does the exhaust smell like fuel/look extremely sooty?
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Jun 16, 2014 21:41
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My 2010 VW Passat has a leaky head gasket, how much of a risk am I taking by driving it to the dealership to fix it? None of my local mechanics can do it and the dealership is about 30 miles away.
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Jun 16, 2014 21:42
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Fucknag posted:Definitely give everything ignition a second look; O2 sensors, true to their name, only measure how much free oxygen is in the exhaust stream. Even if the oxygen is there because the mixture didn't burn due to bad ignition, the sensor only sees the oxygen and reports it as lean, even if the engine happens to be running pig rich independently of the misfire. The LS1 in my GMC did exactly this when one of the O2s crapped out. It loaded up one bank with fuel until it was misfiring and bogging everywhere. A quick check with HPTuners (you could do the same these days with Torque and a cheap BT adapter) showed the long-term fuel trims were maxed. Really, all the "lean" code means is that the long-term fuel trims are so high (based on O2 sensor feedback) that the manufacturer thinks there's no way the engine should be running properly at that point (and they're right).
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Jun 16, 2014 21:53
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Fucknag posted:Definitely give everything ignition a second look; O2 sensors, true to their name, only measure how much free oxygen is in the exhaust stream. Even if the oxygen is there because the mixture didn't burn due to bad ignition, the sensor only sees the oxygen and reports it as lean, even if the engine happens to be running pig rich independently of the misfire. I reused the good O2 sensors from before the swap. The exhaust doesn't smell abnormal. I do have Torque for my phone and a Bluetooth OBDII tool, so I'll try to get some more information when I get a chance.
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Jun 16, 2014 22:07
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Azuth0667 posted:My 2010 VW Passat has a leaky head gasket, how much of a risk am I taking by driving it to the dealership to fix it? None of my local mechanics can do it and the dealership is about 30 miles away. Unless you're over 60k, you should be having the dealer do it for free.
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Jun 16, 2014 23:27
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I caught the (or a) Niva engine problem redhanded. It's been blowing progressively more foul smelling exhaust smoke recently. Hard starts when hot. Running on sometimes when at temperature. Idle has been kind of odd. Kind of stumbling badly occasionally. Carburettor has been dribbling fuel all over the intake and exhaust manifold I only just discovered that last one. For some reason it's only been doing it when the engine is hot. It doesn't really explain why the fuel pump prime lever was telling me everything was fine either. When it moves freely with only spring pressure pushing against the lever it means the pump already has a charge that can't go anywhere. Still it can only logically be either the needle and seat, or the float, right? I think I may be lucky and the float might be brass. Because the carburettor is a Weber derivative my unused Weber needle and seat (Different to Holley 2bbl. Who'da thunk it) might fit. Last week(?) I accidentally put a tank of 91 (standard) in it instead of 98. No pinging or anything but it could have been the trigger for the event. I'm not sure but I think the service station is supplied by a depot over the border, meaning there is probably ethanol in the fuel. I'm not saying the rings and / or stem seals are great, but a leaking carburettor goes a long way to explaining smoke, hard starts and wet, fouled plugs. e: I swear the bad exhaust smell is transmission oil. Looks like the transmission or TC is dripping on the exhaust somehow. Either way that's not good. General_Failure fucked around with this message at 02:29 on Jun 17, 2014 |
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Jun 16, 2014 23:28
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I'll preface by saying I'm no mechanic, but I've owned a lot of lovely cars over the years and have gotten pretty good at doing triage and minor repairs just because I've seen so many problems. I just recently bought a 1995 Toyota Camry LE Sedan (4 cyl, 2.2 liter, automatic) with about 156K miles on it for dirt cheap and I got exactly what I paid for. But I knew that going in. I've only driven it for about 3 days, but it was missing terribly until I changed the plug wires tonight. The guy I bought it from claimed he'd changed the plugs, so I'm going to see if that bears out or not before I replace them, too. The missing seems to have stopped, but I still have a few issues. I don't seem to be getting as much power as I should, which felt like it was the missing but it seems like there could be some problems with getting enough fuel. I'm planning on making my way through oxygen sensors, fuel filters, and the like but I'd love some guidance on what order to try them in. If there's a guide someone trusts, I don't mind doing as many of the checks as I can myself before finding a mechanic. I'm also having some issues with overheating, but I'm not sure they're indicative of a huge problem (yet). One of the two fans on the back of the radiator doesn't seem to be kicking on, but I know it only runs when the engine's warm and/or the AC is blowing. I haven't really tested it under those conditions. Some ideas on how to test it would be great, though. The overheating was only happening when I was doing something taxing on the engine, like climbing a big hill (which happens often when you're road tripping in Oregon and Washington) and then it would cool down when going down a big decline. It didn't overheat at all today in regular traffic conditions. I'm hopeful that taking care of the missing will also make those climbs and such less stressful on the engine in the first place, but I'm not assuming that $50 and 20 minutes to change plug wires fixed all my problems (because it didn't) So I don't think there's a huge clog or leak there, but there's obviously something up and I need to start troubleshooting it before it becomes a big problem. Any help is appreciated. And if you need to know anything else, I'll be glad to provide it.
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Jun 17, 2014 04:42
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Let's start with the obvious on the cooling: What does the coolant look like?
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Jun 17, 2014 05:13
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Fucknag posted:Let's start with the obvious on the cooling: What does the coolant look like? Before I flushed most of it out, it was really brown and lovely looking.
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Jun 17, 2014 05:22
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Your radiator is most probably partially blocked if my lovely old toyota experience tells me anything. I would replace the plugs and fuel filter, then make sure your ignition timing is correct. It is extremely important that you bridge terminals E1 and TE1 on the diag plug before doing the timing. When idiots don't do this it causes hosed up timing and lack of power. The 02 sensors won't affect your economy significantly on that car so I'd leave that unless you know for a fact that they're faulty. You can test the second fan by just unplugging it and applying battery voltage and an earth directly to the two terminals.
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Jun 17, 2014 07:46
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I have damage to a door on my 2005 Jetta. I'm planning on selling it soon. I showed it to a friend who repairs cars and he said that most people would just replace the entire door panel because of where the dent is(right in the door hinge), and the price of the door panel is around $1000. It's not at all worth it to get that fixed before selling it is it?
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Jun 17, 2014 17:10
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ashgromnies posted:It's not at all worth it to get that fixed before selling it is it? Probably not, any pics of the damage? Might be possible to make it look a little better by just using one of those pdr suction cups from HF and giving it a good pull. Might be possible to call around junkyards or finding someone who's parting out one and get a better price on a replacement door.
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Jun 17, 2014 17:45
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I'd look at it from the standpoint that if you aren't going to make more on resale than you would leaving it as-is than the repairs cost its not worth doing. Generally speaking this applies to just about anything that isn't an exotic or some like-new condition rare model.
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Jun 17, 2014 17:56
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You also have to consider excluding certain buyers, some people would pass on a car because it looks neglected or has minor issues because they think something more might be hidden. There is a certain point of diminishing returns, but even an attempted cosmetic repair might look better to a potential buyer than just leaving it alone. The condition of the rest of the car plays a factor too, if it's a basket case anyway, a few dings won't really change it's value, while if everything is well kept then it might be worth it to make it look better.
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Jun 17, 2014 18:05
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Quick (and hopefully easy) question: 2004 Nissan Sentra 1.8L The Blower Motor Resistor gave out on me, so I replaced that (HVAC was only working on highest setting). The fan, however, is still sounding loud as hell. Like a plane propeller. Any suggestions?
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Jun 18, 2014 00:57
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Your fan bearings are destroyed, you need another fan. The added resistance of having to spin the fan when it's rubbing on the housing will be what cooked the transistor.
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Jun 18, 2014 01:33
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Dumb question - SBC 400 I know it needs the steam holes in the heads due to the siamesed cylinders. Can you adapt Vortec heads to the 400 by drilling the holes? I looked up and there is several places that claim that it can be done at a machine ship, but I was just curious more than anything. The 400 still isn't the best motor in the world, but I think some better flowing heads might help.
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Jun 18, 2014 04:12
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The BMW thread didn't give me much love, so crossposting here: My car (07 BMW E87 118i) has developed a noise. It's kinda like the singing/howling of a busted wheel bearing, only it's quite faint, and is periodic, about once or twice a second, depending on speed. Symptoms: Happen at 60-80 kph. Seems to require everything to warm up a bit first. Kinda finicky, seems to start with the right amount of throttle (around medium.) Varies with speed. Results are inconclusive whether it varies with engine speed. I recently changed the diff oil, but I believe I did everything I should. Red Line 75W90, new plug, filled in the correct amount (as much as it would hold basically) etc. It was fine immediately after the oil change. I jacked up the rear and spun the rear wheels by hand. They seemed fine, but there was a faint sound/feel of the diff's gear's teeth. I'm not sure if that's a problem, I've never tried this before. I checked, as well as I could, three out of four wheels for bearing noise, they all seemed fine (wheel number four's jack point was inacessable.) Someone on another forum says that some diff oils are just "not good" so overnight ordered a litre of Castrol (OEM spec) and will most likely change that out tonight.
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Jun 18, 2014 06:00
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Is there anyplace to talk about scooters?
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Jun 18, 2014 08:28
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Yes.
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Jun 18, 2014 08:32
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bolind posted:The BMW thread didn't give me much love, so crossposting here: It's normal for you to be able to feel the grind of the diff gears when you spin the wheels. If it goes away under engine load it isn't diff related. Knowing how BMW's of that era are I'd suspect your accesory belt pulleys or a related area; I once had to deal with an e90 320i that had an incessant whining noise. Replacing the belt tensioner fixed it, despite the tensioner just being a gigantic spring with seemingly no scope to go wrong.
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Jun 18, 2014 10:55
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OK, thanks for the answer! But if you're right, it should follow engine rpm and go away if I push the clutch and let the revs drop to idle, while maintaining speed, yeah? I got my oil and will drive out to my mate's shop tonight, and have a look. The drive there should be good for testing, it's a 70 kph zone most of the way.
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Jun 18, 2014 14:59
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Slavvy posted:Your radiator is most probably partially blocked if my lovely old toyota experience tells me anything. I would replace the plugs and fuel filter, then make sure your ignition timing is correct. It is extremely important that you bridge terminals E1 and TE1 on the diag plug before doing the timing. When idiots don't do this it causes hosed up timing and lack of power. The 02 sensors won't affect your economy significantly on that car so I'd leave that unless you know for a fact that they're faulty. Thanks. I'll grab a fuel filter and see if I can't do that tonight. I've never hosed with the timing on something, so I may take it to a shop for that. I will probably try it for a few days after the fuel filter's been changed and then decide what to do from there. It was like night and day with the new plug wires. It just doesn't have as much power as it should now. I know that engine isn't a beast, but I should be able to take an empty car up a minor incline on the freeway without dropping to 45.
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Jun 18, 2014 15:46
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I am going through the process of buying of my first car and had a mechanic go over the 2005 Seat Ibiza (a small VAG hatchback, similar to the VW Polo) with the 100hp 1.9 Tdi that I am eyeing. The mechanic came back with the following points of interest: - Front right CV joint needs to be serviced or replaced; - Front left stabilizer bar bushing will need need replacement in the near future; - Left tie rod will need replacement sometime in the near future; - Small oil drip from the butterfly valve (?); - Front bumper and right fender show signs of a low speed collision sometime in the car's past; - Belly pan missing (the service writer got a chuckle out of that one); - A code P1503 error that is apparently pointing towards the alternator having trouble charging the battery and might indicate the need to repair or replace it (http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17911/P1503 and http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/18265/P1857/006231). - Error code returned by both passenger sidedoors: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00928 The mechanic claimed he had checked those and found no problem with them. I do not know much about cars at all, but all of the above, save for the alternator issue, seem to be quite minor and I might use the alternator problem to haggle on the price a bit. Am I missing something from the bigger picture and is the car a reasonable buy? a podcast for cats fucked around with this message at 16:16 on Jun 18, 2014 |
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Jun 18, 2014 16:04
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Not a mechanic: The first three things you listed all indicate that the front end of that car is about to fall off. Add to that the electrical issues and the potential issues with oil in your butterfly valve (google brings me this link, which may be of use)... I'd run away from that car.
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Jun 18, 2014 17:14
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Tonton Macoute posted:I am going through the process of buying of my first car and had a mechanic go over the 2005 Seat Ibiza (a small VAG hatchback, similar to the VW Polo) with the 100hp 1.9 Tdi that I am eyeing. Am a mechanic. If you want anything resembling a decent buy, do not buy a VAG product. Ever. I'm not trying to be a dick, they are simply terrible vehicles and you'll never stop spending money on it. If you're clueless about cars, do yourself an enormous favor and buy a Japanese car.
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Jun 18, 2014 19:53
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How do police departments get rid of their cop cars? They don't sell them at police auctions, right? Do they get sold to taxi services? Im looking for a cheap as butts winter car that will hopefully match my current winter wheels without swapping tires. Just keep watching craigslist waiting for a good deal to pop up?
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Jun 18, 2014 21:16
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They are often sold at auctions. Many places sell them to the public after that. Depending on the town, you may be able to big yourself if they have assets up for disposal.
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Jun 18, 2014 21:32
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