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Yip Yips posted:I'm trying to understand the effects that two different video cards would have on the battery life and heat of a laptop. The cards are the 860m (kepler) which has a TDP of 75w and 870m (maxwell) which has a TDP of 100w. Does this mean that when performing the same tasks the 870m is going to draw more power and generate more heat?
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Aug 8, 2014 18:20
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| # ? Apr 29, 2024 01:37 |
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I agree with everything you said except for one nitpick: On an Optimus system, at idle the GPU would be entirely power-gated, so the lower idle power of a Maxwell GPU vs. a Kepler one is pretty much irrelevant as neither would be turned on at all.
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Aug 8, 2014 18:49
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Awesome, thanks for the extremely helpful responses!
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Aug 8, 2014 19:30
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I know this isn't the laptop thread, but I thought you guys might be able to help me out here (been ignored in the laptop thread, teehees  )Looking at laptops for my uncle. Has to come from Currys (UK store). Basic use is emailing/photo and music storage/web surfing. Budget is up to £600, though that's probably more than is needed. I've had a look through the Currys web site and thought about these: ACER Aspire V5-573P/ TOSHIBA Satellite L50t-B-11G HP Pavilion 17-e153sa I'd like to recommend him this Lenovo G5070, but it's out of stock. How's this one: Leonovo Z50-70? The dedicated graphics is unnecessary of course, but it looks like a nice machine.
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Aug 8, 2014 21:47
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Hi, if Windows 7 occasionally pops up a YOUR DRIVE REPORTS IT'S FAILING message (at least a month between them), but CrystalDiskInfo is straight Goods up and down the board, even when left open for a while, does this actually mean anything? I've backed things up just in case but I'd expect to see some consistency in the uh-ohs Specifically: quote:Windows Disk Diagnostic detected a S.M.A.R.T. fault on disk SAMSUNG HD502HJ SATA Disk Device (volumes C:\). meanwhile:  I tried running Seatools but it won't even detect the drive (Spinpoint F3, one they're meant to support) and it's the drive windows is running on right now, so...? I know the prudent approach is full paranoia, assume the worst, but I've backed up before and everything's been fine and I can't see any actual evidence of a problem. What's the usual diagnostic approach with hard drives?
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Aug 9, 2014 01:14
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UltraDMA CRC count is at 6, rather than 0 - likely a SATA cable that isn't quite living up to expectations. Try replacing it with a new cable.
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Aug 9, 2014 01:32
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WattsvilleBlues posted:I know this isn't the laptop thread, but I thought you guys might be able to help me out here (been ignored in the laptop thread, teehees Without knowing a thing about the durability or anything on these, I'd personally pay the premium for the 1080p screen on the Z50.
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Aug 9, 2014 02:28
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I'd pay a premium for the z50 simply because it's Lenovo. You can't match them for quality.
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Aug 9, 2014 03:11
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Eh, when you're dealing with the consumer class stuff it's all the same.
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Aug 9, 2014 03:19
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Factory Factory posted:UltraDMA CRC count is at 6, rather than 0 - likely a SATA cable that isn't quite living up to expectations. Try replacing it with a new cable. Thanks, I'll give that a try - is there any reason Windows would be bleating about S.M.A.R.T. errors that aren't showing up anywhere else? Or is that what you're saying, the CRC errors are making it go hooooly poo poo buy a new drive immediately?
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Aug 9, 2014 03:20
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A CRC error results in a completely failed read or write, which Windows takes very seriously since technically those are only supposed to happen, like, one time in ten billion operations. The count is so low that undoubtably each failed operation was repeated and completed successfully, so you haven't lost anything. And really, the errors probably aren't hurting anything in the big picture. But you don't want to go all Boy Who Cried Wolf about hard drive faults. Now, if you replace the cable, especially with one that works perfectly on another drive, and you still get CRC errors? Now you're looking at either the hard drive or the motherboard's SATA controller starting to fail (probably the hard drive if the cable came from the same PC).
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Aug 9, 2014 03:57
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Random question that came to mind... Does unzipping things on an external hard drive benefit from USB3's speed?
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Aug 9, 2014 04:03
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Aphrodite posted:Random question that came to mind... Yes. The archive is being read into memory from the storage for decompression. But it's possible on older machines that the bottleneck is actually in the decompression, and not the reading of archive data to memory.
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Aug 9, 2014 04:23
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GokieKS posted:Yes. No. You answered very definitively to a question that was unanswerable. Does unzipping things on a USB3 external drive benefit from USB3's speed? ... Compared to what? Plugged in over SATA? No. Less overhead even if the drive is the bottleneck. And please, uncompressing zip was at like >60MB/s on the Athlons in the mid 2000s. The question has no answer. Faster than *what*? Than USB2? Hell yeah. 480Mbit is way too slow to feed even old processors.
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Aug 9, 2014 05:06
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Factory Factory posted:A CRC error results in a completely failed read or write, which Windows takes very seriously since technically those are only supposed to happen, like, one time in ten billion operations. The count is so low that undoubtably each failed operation was repeated and completed successfully, so you haven't lost anything. And really, the errors probably aren't hurting anything in the big picture. But you don't want to go all Boy Who Cried Wolf about hard drive faults. Cool, I'll definitely try that then, cheers! I got really worried the first time it happened (some of it was trying to get data off an old clicking IDE drive, just having it plugged in was making the computer freak out) but since nothing happened and there was never any corroborating evidence the whole thing just confused me. Knowing why I'm getting errors helps a lot, thanks muchly
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Aug 9, 2014 08:08
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Pivo posted:No. It's pretty obviously implied that he means USB 3.0 compared to a slower interface (USB 2.0), considering he said extracting things on an external hard drive. GokieKS fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Aug 9, 2014 |
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Aug 9, 2014 17:44
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I'm back! My random restarts started happening every time I tried to open a large image in Photoshop, which made me think it was RAM, and... What's the best way to find the bad RAM stick? Start with one and keep adding the others until I start getting the restarts again?
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Aug 9, 2014 18:24
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Haledjian posted:What's the best way to find the bad RAM stick? Start with one and keep adding the others until I start getting the restarts again?
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Aug 9, 2014 19:05
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Is there any disadvantage to keeping an older, slower 300GB HDD in my PC? I'm getting an SSD to install my OS on, as well as wiping of my current 1TB and 300GB HDDs and was wondering if it'd be worth keeping the 300GB drive around. I'd just be using it as extra storage for downloads and older video game installs, stuff I don't care about losing or accessing quickly.
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Aug 10, 2014 01:53
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Brownie posted:Is there any disadvantage to keeping an older, slower 300GB HDD in my PC? I'm getting an SSD to install my OS on, as well as wiping of my current 1TB and 300GB HDDs and was wondering if it'd be worth keeping the 300GB drive around. I'd just be using it as extra storage for downloads and older video game installs, stuff I don't care about losing or accessing quickly. Your only disadvantage will be extra power and space usage in the case. You should probably install the OS with just the SSD plugged in first though, just to avoid the annoying case of accidentally getting the boot information stored on another drive.
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Aug 10, 2014 02:29
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I would like to play games on my HDTV (1080p) while still having my gaming PC hooked up to a my 1920x1200 monitor. A couple of questions: a) If I mirror my video card output to a monitor and a TV at 1080p, do I get any kind of frame rate hit? b) How could I setup the video options so that the desktop runs normally on the monitor but all games run on the HDTV? And would this setup be detrimental to the frame rate? Running Windows 7 and a GTX 680 in case it matters.
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Aug 11, 2014 00:49
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DoctorOfLawls posted:a) If I mirror my video card output to a monitor and a TV at 1080p, do I get any kind of frame rate hit? I'm fairly certain if you're just mirroring the display (identical output on both screens) you shouldn't take a frame rate hit since the card should only render it once. DoctorOfLawls posted:b) How could I setup the video options so that the desktop runs normally on the monitor but all games run on the HDTV? And would this setup be detrimental to the frame rate? Most recent titles (released since dual monitor setups became common 5-6 years ago) should have an option in the video settings to choose which display you want to use.
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Aug 11, 2014 01:03
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I need a pci-e video card for a nine year old computer. Everything in the ~$30 range looks like the exact same reference design and has lots of comments about overheating and burning up. Can I assume that these people had tiny cases with no air flow and were trying to play video games on them?
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Aug 12, 2014 21:55
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thebigcow posted:I need a pci-e video card for a nine year old computer. Everything in the ~$30 range looks like the exact same reference design and has lots of comments about overheating and burning up. Can I assume that these people had tiny cases with no air flow and were trying to play video games on them? Since you're not specifying display resolution or use I assume it's just basic desktop graphics. I've had good luck with these, I've used two of them on older hardware for 1080 graphics and occassional slow 3d gaming: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102933
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Aug 12, 2014 22:08
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Rexxed posted:Since you're not specifying display resolution or use I assume it's just basic desktop graphics. I've had good luck with these, I've used two of them on older hardware for 1080 graphics and occassional slow 3d gaming: Whatever the native resolution is on a 17" LCD running desktop graphics. That card looks like all the other ones and has the same complaints. I'm going to go with my assumption and just grab one.
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Aug 12, 2014 22:39
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thebigcow posted:Whatever the native resolution is on a 17" LCD running desktop graphics. I've used about 50 of these replacing customer's basic desktop graphics when they fail and have had no issues whatsoever. It's still a solid reviewed card, and reading some of the 1 and 2 stars it seems the people were using it for gaming and constant dual screens (which it's not designed for). If you're going to be doing even light gaming get something slightly better.
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Aug 13, 2014 16:00
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I cloned my current SSD to my new SSD using Macrium Reflect. How do I make the new SSD be the boot, system, page file etc. disc now?
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Aug 14, 2014 22:47
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Aphrodite posted:I cloned my current SSD to my new SSD using Macrium Reflect. You unplug the old drive and boot from the new one to make sure it works in the first place. Then change the desktop background as a sanity check that you are booting from the correct drive. After that, change the boot order in the BIOS/UEFI setup and/or move plugs so that the new SSD is plugged into the first SATA port. Then, when booted to the new SSD, then clean the old SSD, create a new partition of maximum size, quick format the partition as NTFS (this issues a TRIM command to the entire drive), and then you can repartition the SSD further if you like.
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Aug 14, 2014 23:06
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Factory Factory posted:Then change the desktop background as a sanity check that you are booting from the correct drive. Haha, I like this.
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Aug 14, 2014 23:11
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I created a txt called New on the desktop because I don't want to lose the one I have set. But it worked, thanks.
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Aug 14, 2014 23:19
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Is using driver fusion still the best way to purge video drivers?
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Aug 15, 2014 02:43
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unpronounceable posted:Is using driver fusion still the best way to purge video drivers?
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Aug 15, 2014 02:45
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Alereon posted:Display Driver Uninstaller is the new hotness. Awesome, thanks!
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Aug 15, 2014 03:07
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Is there a good alternative to ChkFlsh? It has given me some likely false positives lately on larger devices recently so I'm not sure I trust it anymore. edit: I ended up using "FAKEFLASHTEST.EXE" from this schizophrenic website http://www.rmprepusb.com/tutorials/-fake-usb-flash-memory-drives It works, I guess. I wish it was better documented though. sleepy gary fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Aug 17, 2014 |
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Aug 17, 2014 13:47
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Is it possible that certain USB ports on a 3 year old motherboard just decide to go bad? I have an Asus P8P67PRO running an overclocked i5 2500k, and that setup never gave me any problems. A few weeks ago I noticed that the USB 3.0 ports in the back were no longer working (hardware issue - not even powering things at all regardless of OS) whereas more recently a few regular USB ports were giving me a couple of "USB device not recognized" errors under Windows 7. I connected the devices to other USB ports and now they seem to be working fine, but I found this really odd.
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Aug 18, 2014 18:34
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DoctorOfLawls posted:Is it possible that certain USB ports on a 3 year old motherboard just decide to go bad? I have an Asus P8P67PRO running an overclocked i5 2500k, and that setup never gave me any problems. A few weeks ago I noticed that the USB 3.0 ports in the back were no longer working (hardware issue - not even powering things at all regardless of OS) whereas more recently a few regular USB ports were giving me a couple of "USB device not recognized" errors under Windows 7. I connected the devices to other USB ports and now they seem to be working fine, but I found this really odd.
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Aug 18, 2014 18:45
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Alereon posted:Before writing the ports off I'd power the system down, flip the power switch in the back, press the power button on the front to drain the capacitors (you should see the LEDs flicker), then unplug power and let the system sit for 30 minutes to a few hours. This cuts power to controllers that remain on when the system is turned off, in some cases they can hang and capacitors can store enough charge to keep them from losing their (failed) state through brief power interruptions. If that doesn't fix it, try clearing the CMOS and loading setup defaults. If no change, I agree it sounds like a hardware failure, you might confirm if those ports are provided by the Intel or a third-party controller. The other controller could have just died, for example. Many thanks, I will give this a try and see how it goes, then report here.
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Aug 18, 2014 19:04
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DoctorOfLawls posted:Is it possible that certain USB ports on a 3 year old motherboard just decide to go bad? I have an Asus P8P67PRO running an overclocked i5 2500k, and that setup never gave me any problems. A few weeks ago I noticed that the USB 3.0 ports in the back were no longer working (hardware issue - not even powering things at all regardless of OS) whereas more recently a few regular USB ports were giving me a couple of "USB device not recognized" errors under Windows 7. I connected the devices to other USB ports and now they seem to be working fine, but I found this really odd. The P8P67 Pro and a bunch of other early sandy bridge motherboards shipped with faulty SATA controllers that were prone to dying. It wouldn't surprise me if the USB was affected as well. Edit: I have a P8P67 Pro with a dead SATA controller that I never got around to exchanging. Still works perfectly apart from having fewer SATA ports, which I never needed anyways. So long as you don't find yourself needing more ports, the motherboard shouldn't need replacement. Fruits of the sea fucked around with this message at 09:56 on Aug 19, 2014 |
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Aug 19, 2014 09:52
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Fruits of the sea posted:The P8P67 Pro and a bunch of other early sandy bridge motherboards shipped with faulty SATA controllers that were prone to dying. It wouldn't surprise me if the USB was affected as well.
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Aug 19, 2014 17:10
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| # ? Apr 29, 2024 01:37 |
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What is the downside to using a WD 3TB Red drive, if I'm planning on putting the less-important games I have on it? Just longer load times? It's not bad for the drive to be used like that or anything?
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Aug 19, 2014 17:17
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