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poo poo, that's definitely way bigger than my HG stuff. I'll have to think about that one.
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Aug 28, 2014 06:13
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madpanda posted:"Require" is not the right word for this reply. Depends on your tolerance for slapping thick, ill-fitting paper stickers on your model, really. Mine is pretty low.
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Aug 28, 2014 06:44
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WickedHate posted:It's so cheap! Not even expensively cheap! I can't even find an emote to convey my feelings of love towards it. So does High Grade not take painting? Remember that even if you're horrible at painting, if you're willing to spend the time masking everything with tape even a total ham hands can do a good job.
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Aug 28, 2014 07:11
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WickedHate posted:It's so cheap! Not even expensively cheap! I can't even find an emote to convey my feelings of love towards it. So does High Grade not take painting? Keep in mind your gonna be paying five or so dollars on top of that to get it shipped to you, more if you want it in any kind of reasonable time frame. You can also just use the stickers for high grades but I'd really recommend getting a brush and learning how to handpaint some of the smaller details it will really add a lot to your kits.
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Aug 28, 2014 08:17
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Gaius Marius posted:Keep in mind your gonna be paying five or so dollars on top of that to get it shipped to you, more if you want it in any kind of reasonable time frame. You can also just use the stickers for high grades but I'd really recommend getting a brush and learning how to handpaint some of the smaller details it will really add a lot to your kits. N'th-ing this. When I first built Gunpla many moons ago I quickly learnt that the stickers were terrible and immediately started using paints instead. Most of the time you just need a spot of paint here, a spot of paint there. Over time I started fully painting the HG kits and then spot-painting anything MG/RG. Ah, nostalgia.
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Aug 28, 2014 10:25
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Bimmi posted:Depends on your tolerance for slapping thick, ill-fitting paper stickers on your model, really. Mine is pretty low. For a brand new person though trying to get into the hobby that might be fine and required painting adds another barrier to entry. I just got into it and already decals are pissing me off, but just starting out the no paint thing really was a selling point.
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Aug 28, 2014 12:55
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Ok, over labor day weekend, I'm planning to build, or start on, this baby: http://dalong.net/review/seed/sh59/sh59_i.htm I hate the way the gold plastic looks, and it's a bitch to make decals look good, so I'm planning to make this my first painting job. Looking for some tips. What I've got in terms of paints is spray cans of: Tamiya Gold (21 I think?) Tamiya Matte Black (I kinda like matte) Tamiya Grey Primer Tamiya White Primer Along with: Testors Dullcoat (last resort) Mr. Color Semi-Gloss Top Coat Mr. Super Clear Flat 50 Alligator clips on sticks to hold pieces Big mother fuckin' styrofoam circle base to jam the clips into Paint brushes and a bunch of Tamiya color paints, including a red to use on the red spots Gundam Markers (just because) A little bottle of Tamiya Surface Primer Tamiya Extra Thin Cement Tamiya Masking Tape Nippers, knives, sanding sticks Deck outside to spray poo poo on Maybe other things I forgot to mention Ok, friends, tell me how not to gently caress up and somehow burn my house down, while making my kit look at least passable. My plan was to clip out all the black and gold pieces, sand the numbs off at the least, put them all on alligator clips (not together, just like, all gold, and then all black), prime them up, paint the gold ones up, mask the parts on the black ones I want to be red, paint the black ones up, remove the masking tape, hand paint the red spots, build that fucker, top coat the gently caress out of it, possibly die from horrible toxic fumes. How many mistakes have I just made?
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Aug 28, 2014 16:12
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Has anyone painted the Qubeley Papillon that can validate a thing I want to do? I'm planning on making the whole thing metallic. The purple torso parts will be done with Vallejo metallic medium after priming, the dark steel parts with accompanying Alclad, the remainder I plan on candy-coating. Primer, airbrushed Alclad gloss black, airbrushed Alclad chrome, and airbrushed turquoise mixed from Tamiya transparent green/blue. The coral parts I'll mask after applying the chrome. Here's the thing I want to do: I'll use the decals themselves for masking. I'll stick them to my skin or shirt once or twice to de-tack them a little and make them easier to pull off later. However, since the cuffs and other small parts may be iffy, I plan on hand-painting on the coral pink accent parts mixed with Vallejo metallic medium once I figure out how to mix the coral right. The thing for that: reverse masking. I'll cut out the parts of the decal that remain after removing it, and just slip it over, using it as a hand-painted mask. I do have the paint-on mask stuff, but I've had real problems getting it fully cleanly removed, especially from really tight parts - the elbow cuffs, toes, etc. come to mind.
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Aug 28, 2014 16:22
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Alright, so I just finished up the Iron Kong I bought from Fauxtool, and per request, here he is next to my other models. This sucker is big, and took a long rear end time to build, but I would say I definitely had more fun building it than building an MG Gunpla.
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Aug 28, 2014 18:38
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Speaking of stuff people bought from Fauxtool, here's the Build Mark II. Very fun build, especially enjoy the arm cannons.
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Aug 28, 2014 20:27
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Kurui Reiten posted:Ok, over labor day weekend, I'm planning to build, or start on, this baby: http://dalong.net/review/seed/sh59/sh59_i.htm My brain is melting slightly from a taxing shift, but you look pretty good here. The only things I'd mention is that where possible, don't paint individual parts if it's possible to assemble them into sub-assemblies first. Normally you do this so you can glue parts together and hide seam lines, but it has a secondary purpose which is that it give you less parts to have to paint. Why paint 4 small pieces when you can put them together and have one piece instead? It also means you get a consistent paint gradient over those pieces. IF you did them all separately, you might find small variations in hues that cause the final assembly to look a bit hodge-podge. Paint as large an area in one go as you can for consistency. I don't think you'll have too much of a problem with that, though, since you're using rattle-cans and it doesn't sound like you want to do any complex shading. If you do decide to paint each part separately, remember to keep the paint and varnish away from the little pegs and sockets that allow the kit to snap together. You'll end up with connections that are too tight and the plastic could fracture from the stress, or you might not be able to snap something together totally flush. Also bear in mind that if you're using top coats / varnish, then the type of paint you bought is less important. To explain more: you have bought a matt black paint, but if you spray over the top of it with a gloss coat, it will look gloss. Conversely, if you spray over the top of gloss with a matt varnish, it will look matt. It's all about physics and how light bounces off the surface! Finally, the only thing I think you're missing from that list is some form of lung and soft tissue protection. You mentioned working outside but I still recommend a mask. Also you'll want some gloves for when you're handling and painting you parts. The gloves will protect your hand from paint, but more importantly the gloves protect the parts from you! Humans are oily, grimy creatures that like to secrete strange substances onto things they touch. It can gently caress up your paint job by leaving fingerprints, etc. Go forth and make robot happen! Remember, each kit is a learning opportunity and you shouldn't stress out too much over making it look good if it stops you having fun. You're supposed to enjoy your hobbies, even if they are fiddly and occasionally frustrating.
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Aug 28, 2014 22:02
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Thanks a lot! I actually always forget to ask this, though: How long should I spray the pieces (I assume just a couple of passes back and forth over them, until they look covered), and how long to let each coat/type of coat dry? Primer, Paint, Top Coat, I'm not sure on the drying times/spraying times for each of those.
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Aug 28, 2014 22:06
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Kurui Reiten posted:Thanks a lot! I actually always forget to ask this, though: How long should I spray the pieces (I assume just a couple of passes back and forth over them, until they look covered), and how long to let each coat/type of coat dry? Primer, Paint, Top Coat, I'm not sure on the drying times/spraying times for each of those. I'd recommend looking at some videos about rattle-can control and the best ways to spray. Starting tips are that you should always start your spray off the model before you then pass over it at a brisk, steady rate, releasing the spray once you're off the piece again. You start and stop off the piece you're working on to avoid splatter. You should work in a continuous direction as well. With small kit pieces, you'll need to be able to manipulate the piece to make sure you can turn it to any angle and ensure you get full coverage. You mentioned you already had clips, so you'll probably do what I did and attach them to cocktail sticks. You hold the piece by the stick, spray, pass, release and then rotate the piece, spray, pass, release. You'll get the hang of it. Be forewarned that you'll feel like you're wasting paint this way, and you kind of are, but this is how you get a good, even coat. You may find you need to buy more cans. As for drying times, that depends on the type of paint and the weather. Hugh humidity means each coat will take longer to dry. Acrylics dry quicker than enamels. Some paints and varnishes allow you to spray, wait about 30 minutes for it to be semi-dry and then apply a second coat. I can't imagine you'll need more than two passes with a rattle-can since they have a pretty powerful spray and most of the time you'll be worried about over-spray, not under-spray. Just make sure you spray the piece from multiple angles to get good coverage. Once you've finished a coat, leave it to dry at least overnight. This hobby rewards patience and you should give things plenty of time to cure, especially varnishes. If you're too hasty, you could ruin your hard work. For your reference, I work mainly with enamels. They will become pretty much touch-dry after 30 minutes (on a non-humid day) but take at least 6 hours to fully dry / cure. Acrylics dry fully a lot faster which is why a lot of people like working with them. I'd still recommend doing no more than a coat a day. Varnishes in particular need to be allowed plenty of time to harden. For finishes that you want to polish, you may want to allow several days. I've read about a chap who reported that the perfect gloss coat on his model cars could only be achieved by allowing the varnished vehicle to sit in a dark cupboard for at least three months before polishing! EDIT: And I almost forgot! Pay attention to the distance you're spraying from! This was my undoing with this kit (you may remember I had to redo my flat colours because I was spraying from too far away). With spray-cans the danger is usually spraying too close. Pay attention to the instructions on the can. runwiled fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Aug 28, 2014 |
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Aug 28, 2014 22:22
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So the stuff gundamguy is showing of the C3 show will end up on ebay or somewhere for sale soonly right?
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Aug 29, 2014 01:46
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What grade would be good to start in short of working with painting, stickers, or using a marker?
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Aug 29, 2014 02:00
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Blackchamber posted:So the stuff gundamguy is showing of the C3 show will end up on ebay or somewhere for sale soonly right? Undoubtedly, for probably about 4 times it's actual value. Tenzarin posted:What grade would be good to start in short of working with painting, stickers, or using a marker? If you want to avoid all of that, then go Master Grade. You can generally get great results with only basic effort.
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Aug 29, 2014 02:00
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I've made a huge mistake.
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Aug 29, 2014 03:02
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Koopa Kid posted:I've made a huge mistake. I have two of those models (Gundam 3.0 and RG Aile). If that's wrong, I don't wanna be right.
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Aug 29, 2014 03:07
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Koopa Kid posted:I've made a huge mistake. One of us, one of us, one of us...  Seriously though, those are some pretty good kits you got. You should have fun building all of those.
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Aug 29, 2014 03:08
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I'm really looking forward to getting them all together, think I might start on the Aile Strike just as an unpainted, out-of-box thing so that I have something to pose and make pew noises around while I paint up the less detailed stuff.
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Aug 29, 2014 03:13
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Koopa Kid posted:I've made a huge mistake. You have indeed. You forgot to get the RG Skygrasper for the other two Strike Packs .
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Aug 29, 2014 03:13
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Neddy Seagoon posted:You have indeed. You forgot to get the RG Skygrasper for the other two Strike Packs I can't get over the fact that it pretty much costs the same amount as another RG. Plus Launcher Strike is ugly I said it 
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Aug 29, 2014 03:24
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When I get a little time or desire I do some more work on my Gundam X Divider. Its been panel inked/weathered from an ancient rear end Gundam Marker panel marker pen that is more or less a tiny nub. I just need to paint the parts that need painting like those stupid triangle bits whose stickers basically slide off at the slightest touch and the sword grips. I was thinking about removing one of the lower X parts and plugging in my old 144 X's satellite cannon but its old and uggo. I might use the original X as a practice clearcoat run though. Dust/wash it off, maybe touch up some bits, spray it, see how it goes. (Also the gun would look kind of awkward and doesn't have enough mobility to come out under the crotch for a wang gun like Sex Machine from From Dusk Till Dawn. So not worth the effort.) The old kit is very nice for its time even when compared to the Divider. But my skills limited as they are have improved since then. Course a kit I built in an hour or two and a few years later sharpie paneled is gonna look a lot worse than a kit I put together in like five or so and spent another 90 minutes paneling/weathering. Even with some sanding those sprue gates are still there and offend me. They just won't come totally clean. :failure:
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Aug 29, 2014 04:39
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What are recommended panel lining colors when doing lighter brown kits like Domtroopen or Gogg
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Aug 29, 2014 05:54
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Dark brown, generally, but grey should be fine too.
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Aug 29, 2014 06:20
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Koopa Kid posted:I've made a huge mistake. I just finished putting together Miss Sazabi last week and I think it's a really fun kit to assemble. It's huge for a HG. I want to buy another one so I can paint it Gunbuster colors.
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Aug 29, 2014 08:56
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Going by reviews Hi-Nu vKa is a really neat mix between the original Hi-Nu and the Unicorn's thruster layout.  Also beam tonfas. Also the wrist can actually support the gun now, though only time will tell if they can support the HWS. Spoilers: they probably can't.
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Aug 29, 2014 18:57
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BlitzBlast posted:Also the wrist can actually support the gun now, though only time will tell if they can support the HWS. Spoilers: they probably can't. Pictures seem to indicate some sort of clip: 
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Aug 29, 2014 19:02
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BlitzBlast posted:Going by reviews Hi-Nu vKa is a really neat mix between the original Hi-Nu and the Unicorn's thruster layout. Oh dammit, I don't need another reason to want this thing, yet they keep on coming. 
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Aug 29, 2014 19:04
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Honestly if it weren't for the fact that I am burned the gently caress out on building kits with funnels I might be interested in this. But ahahahahahaha no.
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Aug 29, 2014 19:08
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I am going to try my first decent paintjob on my old MG Hi Nu soonish, it's hipjoint snapped in half though; so I'll need to fix that first. It can't even stand atm.
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Aug 29, 2014 19:13
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BlitzBlast posted:Honestly if it weren't for the fact that I am burned the gently caress out on building kits with funnels I might be interested in this. But ahahahahahaha no. I'm currently building the nu verision Ka right now and I still want to pick this up ASAP, even though I have a backlog of like 7 kits. Although good christ is painting 6 funnels tedious as hell.
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Aug 29, 2014 20:08
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Im sorry this is my first ti.e even reading this subforum, but are you telling me that all this time I have spent painting 40K poo poo in secret I COULD have been painting Gundams and Zoids and poo poo? Get the gently caress out. I quit. Edit: holy poo poo the USN BDU pattern on that zaku from page two 
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Aug 29, 2014 22:33
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So uh if you ever wanted a Soulgain Amazon has a completely loving ridiculous sale going on.
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Aug 29, 2014 22:36
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BlitzBlast posted:So uh if you ever wanted a Soulgain Amazon has a completely loving ridiculous sale going on. God drat. I wish I could find an Alteisen for that price.
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Aug 29, 2014 23:22
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Presented without comment:
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Aug 29, 2014 23:43
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Dammit Japan.
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Aug 30, 2014 00:25
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ayo gurl you got that high grade poo poo you know i like it
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Aug 30, 2014 00:38
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But are the boxes cardboard or stickers on plastic
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Aug 30, 2014 00:40
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E: nvm found what I needed.
Blackchamber fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Aug 30, 2014 |
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Aug 30, 2014 00:49
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