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Copart is your ticket, that's where my totalled Subaru went. I dunno if hail damage gives the car a salvage title or not.
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Aug 14, 2014 22:55
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Bajaha posted:Eh, this nissan isn't long for this world anyway. Between the rust, structural carpet and undercoat, shot bushings, shot suspension, shot clutch, rolling oil change interval, and all the other issues I'm forgetting, we're already looking at replacements. At this point it's more of an experiment to see how much neglect it can take before it gives out for good. http://www.impactauto.ca I'm fairly sure you have to be a dealer, mechanic shop or salvage yard to bid though. Hail does give a salvage title if the damage totals it out.
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Aug 14, 2014 23:28
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Update! Actually have some progress done! First up, more shiny new parts!  I messed up the balljoint boots when I was removing the front control arms to do the Whiteline ALK and changing the front bushing for a polyurethane one. So instead of going with a sensible Moog or other replacement, Whiteline Roll Center adjustment kit it is. Yeah, I know, I'm a bit of a Whiteline Whore. Also figured since I've got the '13 STI trans in there, might as well get a '13 STI Badge, still haven't figured out where I want to put it though. To remove the old and busted I borrowed this awesome tool from a local subaru enthusiast. Brand new, never used in the original box. Seriously turned a couple potential hours of swearing and cocking about with hammers and chisels into a quick and easy 5 min job. The right tool for the right job owns.  In the mean time, while the parts were all sandblasted and getting ready for paint, I had a friend help who has a home made 50 ton press to press out all the old bushings. There was a lot of mucking about with the old bushings, and pressing the new ones in wasn't that simple either for some of them. The 4 big subframe bushings in the rear for example were fused/rusted into the brackets that hold them and required cutting off the collar on the bushings and a lot of persuasion to come out. The rear outrigger bushings for the diff also put up a fight, from being awkward to push out in the first place, and with pressing in since apparently the spaces where the bushings go turn oval once you press the old ones out, best guess is the heat from the welding at the factory distorted the metal so it goes oval once there's no bushing forcing it to be circular. To not tie up room at his personal shop, I had them pressed out and in at the same time, so come paint I had to work around the new bushings. Oh well, a little paint won't hurt them. Did the full anal-retentive Por15 prepwork with their cleaner/degreaser and the metal prep spray even though the parts are freshly sandblasted, figured I don't want to do it again so might as well go all out and drink the cool-aid on this one and do it the way they recommend. Once it was all painted, did a few coats of Eastwoods internal frame coat on all the cavity sections of the frame and suspension bits, and went to the garage to empty out the can on the various cavities for the built-in frame rails on the car itself. Crossing my fingers that all this poo poo works on stopping/delaying rust.   And since the control arms were off anyway (actually put them back on but I'm already painting everything so what's another few mins of work to take them back off again.  Now, since all this crap is getting a nice few coats of paint and I have to wait for it to cure, I have to address the two stuck bolts in the back before this can all go back in. I hate those two bolts. The one that snapped off flush with the body was fun to deal with. Bought a set of left hand drills and while they're great at drilling, they didn't do the nice catch and back out the bolt, honestly with how stuck they were I'm not surprised. Ended up drilling it out to just under the width of bolt that used to be there and grabbed a tap and re-threaded the hole. This whole process is summed up in a nice little sentence, but drat is it ever an annoying tedious process that's nerve racking since trying to hold a drill level and going in straight while laying under the car is not a simple task. Still amazed that it worked out as well as it did. Was really thinking I'd have to get a timesert/helicoil/permacoil or whatever. Well, one down, one to go, and it's good n' stuck. Tried threading the rod and using two nuts to spin it out like you would with an exhaust stud, and nope. First the wrench opens up instead of turning, so I undo both nuts and put them on with the box end of the wrench already on the bolt, and that just results in the threads on the nut stripping out completely, on a 19mm nut. Once that failed, I grab a pipe wrench and try to turn the bolt, nope. It just pulls off a layer of metal from the bolt as it spins around it. Next, I grab the dremel with a cutting wheel and cut 4 flat faces on the bolt to help the wrench grab something. Nope, doesn't work. Tried using the bolt out sockets before but they just spun out on the bolt. Well, now since the bolt was threaded at the end, it actually grabbed hold, and with a liberal application of penetrating fluid over the course of a few days, and as much heat as I could put into it with a propane torch, and a 6ft+ cheater bar, the bolt turns! Got it turn a few times, each time it clicks and snaps, going 1/8th of a turn at a time. And then this:   So I pull out the stud from the bolt-out socket and keep going, applying more and more penetrating fluid each time. 1/8th of a turn at a time the bolt cracks at each try. On the last few threads, it comes out smoothly, although with much resistance. AND. IT. CAME. OUT.  Holy poo poo, what a PITA. So then, back to more enjoyable parts of working on this Subaru. Picked up some shfancy gloves  As it sat in eager wait of the new trans  My superfancy high precision high tech tool for keeping the motor tilted back a bit to make it easier to slip the trans on.  The New Hotness almost in it's rightful place  Bonus shot of the Whiteline Roll Center adjustment kit and a hint of the Racecomp Engineering Coilovers.  And it went in, no pics yet though. The trans was sitting too high (used the 5spd GroupN mount and the STI trans crossmember which causes the trans to sit a full inch higher in the trans tunnel than the Baja one does. I did not know this at the time and as such had a huge hassle to get the shifter assembly bolted up properly and ran into an issue where the shifter linkage would interfere with the trans tunnel and thus was jammed. Resolved this problem with a small spacer on the trans crossmember bolts and modifying the rear shifter stay so that the shifter would sit a touch lower. Found out what my real problem was when I was putting in the driveshaft, it interfered with the shifter and at that point I checked the two mounts side by side. Now I've got the Baja trans crossmember with no spacers in there (rebuilt it using the bushings and bolts from the STI one) and now there's enough clearance for everything. Would have saved some effort if I had double checked jut how big of a difference there was between the two trans crossmembers.  And we run into another issue. The driveshaft is too short.  Options are either a custom driveshaft which is $$$$, an auto driveshaft from an Outback/Baja but it might still be wrong and it's weaker and the flange is for an R160 instead of the R180 that's sitting in the back, or building a custom spacer since the STI shaft is a two piece design and inserting it lengthen the current driveshaft. I'm going with option 3 and the same friend with the backyard machine shop will be helping to fabricate this spacer. Looks like we're going with 4140 high strength steel. And finally, to end of a good note, the back end is all back together and ready to rock. Forcing stiff bushings into the proper brackets and then getting the bolts to go through was a fun fight, liberal use of hammers and used punches (the tool, not my fists) to line up the holes in brackets to the bushings before forcing a bolt through. So many times I'd have most of it together and then take it apart again to fit an axle or fit a bolt that has to go through first because it's too long to snake in once the part bracket is in the proper place. Thankfully the other side went much quicker once I remembered what the proper order of bolting everything back up was. Also, drum brakes are FUN to work on. drat little springs love flying across the room when they slip out of the pliers you're using to stretch them.  Really should have Por15'd the swaybar while I was at it, the rust on the bolts and that bar really stand out against the shiny black bits. On the plus side, everything works back here and should be better than new now.  And that's all for now.
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Sep 5, 2014 15:50
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GUESS WHAT'S BACK! 
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Sep 8, 2014 17:57
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Bajaha posted:GUESS WHAT'S BACK! Bad navigation? Stop signs? The Hyundai?
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Sep 8, 2014 18:00
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jink posted:Bad navigation? Ding ding! As we can clearly see out the windshield, I am not currently parked right beside an active runway. I was so hopeful it was finally fixed by the last trip to the dealer, teased me by working without issues for about a week.
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Sep 8, 2014 18:05
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Bajaha posted:Ding ding! As we can clearly see out the windshield, I am not currently parked right beside an active runway. I am a firm believer that there exists no good built in navigation. They are extremely sluggish, hard to input streets, rarely updated. Outdated on dealer lot arrival. The industry movement to stream phone displays to the car screen is a step in the right direction. The phone gets regular updates, is optimized for responsive UI, can stream in updates, etc. I spent extra time finding a car without the navigation. I don't want that dated crap. 
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Sep 9, 2014 01:19
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jink posted:I spent extra time finding a car without the navigation. I don't want that dated crap. Unfortunately sometimes not possible, and much harder in Canada. Veloster only comes in 3 trims, base, tech, and turbo and I don't think there even are any packages to add/remove to them. I'm usually fine with navigation as a novelty (Fiance loves it though as she's pretty terrible with directions), but yeah they definitely don't age gracefully. In other news, more progress! First up, since the driveshaft spacer was out being fabricated, I put together the front a little bit more. Installed the radiator (unfortunately the new gates premolded upper rad hose for the WRX is too short for where the radiator sits, I'll have to pick up one for the Baja and throw it in), threw on the intake finally, put in 4 washers I missed when putting in the rear diff, and sprayed the diff skid plate with a fresh coat of rubberized undercoat. No pics of all that since I forgot and they'll show up in later pics as progress is made. Now, for pictures. I might have mentioned earlier, I snapped the clockspring last summer while mucking about with the steering wheel having it on and off and forgetting to center the clockspring before putting the wheel back on. Well, I finally got around to taking it all apart and throwing the new one in.  Fun times trying to snake out the cables from the column.  Cut apart my 5spd shift boot, and did some sewing to get the boot to sit properly on the 6spd shift linkage. I think it turned out pretty well for the first attempt. Kartboy SS and all assorted bushings and linkage upgrades complete as well, going all out everywhere else with this build so might as well go the full 9 yards while I have/had it apart.  Oh, while I was waiting for the spacer, I also wired in the DCCDPro controller and threw the control button and knob on the center stack, couldn't really think where to put it but this seemed like a decent spot, so there it is. Wiring in the controller was pretty simple, had to extend a few wires and it always feels weird cutting into the ECM harness. Excited to see the controller in action.  Full shot of the interior as it stands. I think I'll put the GTSpec D-shaped wheel on my Christmas list, I really liked the steering wheel on the Fiat 500 Abarth when I took one for a spin and I want to have that nice thick D shaped wheel. I guess we'll see how good I've been this year in a few months.  And the Spacer is complete! 4140 high strength steel, It'll be going in tomorrow evening so there should be some more progress soon. It's getting close to driving on the road again!  That's all for now.
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Sep 9, 2014 05:30
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drat I missed your update with your driveshaft woes. I don't know about Canada, but here a driveshaft shop can lengthen or shorten one for around $100 (cheapest I've seen is $40, but no balancing). Also, you'll never have to worry about your spacer, but most v8 swapped Z cars run an aluminum spacer/adapter to run a Chevy driveshaft. T5 trans swapped volvos also commonly run an aluminum adapter for a mustang driveshaft. Just letting you know in case you put the car on a diet someday. Regardless, your car is super awesome, I hope you post some 4 wheel rally/road drift videos in the future 
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Sep 9, 2014 07:39
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mafoose posted:I don't know about Canada, but here a driveshaft shop can lengthen or shorten one for around $100 (cheapest I've seen is $40, but no balancing). I did a quick look for a driveshaft shop locally but I didn't find anything, doesn't look like Winnipeg has a big enough community to keep a shop like that open  And yeah, can't wait for winter to go drifting, going to be weird getting used to having a transmission that can actually take some abuse without going boom. Anyway, Just going to leave this here:  It's running and driving! Need to rebleed the clutch as it disengagement point is really close to the floor, feels a little spongy too I think. Otherwise I'll update with actual nice DSLR photos within the next few days, did a bunch of work I haven't mentioned in the thread yet.
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Sep 12, 2014 01:58
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Nice, but I gotta say I'm not a fan of the blacked-out headlights look.
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Sep 12, 2014 04:33
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Fucknag posted:Nice, but I gotta say I'm not a fan of the blacked-out headlights look. You mean the black and out headlights? It's the new trend.
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Sep 12, 2014 12:19
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Are you still going to try to do anything with the Hyundai under whatever lemon laws ya'll have?
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Sep 12, 2014 14:43
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everdave posted:Are you still going to try to do anything with the Hyundai under whatever lemon laws ya'll have? He posted previously that the lemon laws where he lives are vague at best and require a lot of paperwork. He's trying to get a long list of problems in hopes of a buyback.
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Sep 12, 2014 20:08
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You can put me firmly in the 'I hate it' camp as far as those Bajas go (the white cladding just irritates me), but I do recognize that engine & know it is a b*tch to work on. I did a timing belt on my ej22 when doing the headgasket and it is a real bear to get right. It took me several tries. Props on a successful rebuild of your project car, dude! Subaru = fun to drive, amirite?
A3th3r fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Sep 13, 2014 |
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Sep 13, 2014 03:14
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A3th3r posted:You can put me firmly in the 'I hate it' camp as far as those Bajas go (the white cladding just irritates me), but I do recognize that engine & know it is a b*tch to work on. I did a timing belt on my ej22 when doing the headgasket and it is a real bear to get right. It took me several tries. Props on a successful rebuild of your project car, dude! Subaru = fun to drive, amirite? If you think EJxx engines are a bitch to work on, sell your loving tools and make your peace with paying mechanics to do poo poo for you because are you ever in for a rough ride on just about anything else. PS if you don't like the Baja, you must be lost because THIS IS A loving BAJA BUILD THREAD IDIOT 
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Sep 13, 2014 03:26
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Reacon posted:He posted previously that the lemon laws where he lives are vague at best and require a lot of paperwork. He's trying to get a long list of problems in hopes of a buyback. bingo. And yeah, the Baja has always been a love it or hate it type deal with the styling. It's still from the era of Subaru where ugly could wrap around to pretty. In lighter news, I decided that the black-and-out headlight look was just too hipster for me and I went and threw the lights on (after completing the retro since I've been really lazy with side projects / actual projects  ) Still can't get them aimed right so I think I'll just throw in the towel and get them properly aimed by one of the local pro's who's got a business that specializes in HID projector retrofits.  So dusty and dirty from sitting in storage, but it's out and driving now! SOOO MUCH TORQUE! Took it for an alignment first thing after it was turned back onto active registration (was on storage insurance while I had it up on stands) to a local dealer that got good reviews for having a new drive on alignment rack (great for lowered vehicles) and was supposed to be a decent price at just under $100 for the alignment. Well, a 1hr alignment turned into 3hrs and cost just under $300  I discussed with the tech before it went in and told him about what specs I wanted (~ 3 deg neg. camber up front, 2 deg neg camber out back, leave the castor, 0 toe all round) and what aftermarket parts affect alignment and which parts are adjustable. After waiting for 3 hours, and being very behind in my day, I get the car back and it turns out the tech spent so much time because he set the car to as close to stock alignment as he could get it. (-1.5 deg neg camber up front, -1.0 deg camber out back, caster moved down to 3 deg from 5, and 0 toe) He actually rotated the offset strut mounts (Whiteline Com-C) to counteract the castor and camber they are designed to add.  On top of that, he still managed to not center the steering wheel, it's a few degrees off to the right when driving straight. I was in a huge rush so I quickly paid and got out of there, going back tomorrow, this week has been busy and they close at 6pm W-F, to get this straightened out. Ugh, at least the wheels are straight and I won't scrub off the tires just driving around town. It's going to be fun straightening this shitshow out. Anyway, back onto pretty pretty pictures.  Grille is still untouched since last year for the most part, needs a good sand down, some smoothing, and a decent coat of paint to get it from *proof-of-concept* stage to a nicely finished piece. Hopefully I'll have some time on the weekends to get it done among all the other little side projects.  Needs a good wash too, I've just took it to the coin-op for a quick wash to get the dust off, but it needs a full on detail, hopefully there's still some nice weather before the snow starts coming down. I'm pretty happy with how it sits now on the new suspension, the front is pretty easy to lift and drop, the rear is a bit of a pain since there are suspension arms in the way of where you want to swing the hook for the coilovers, so you end up having to spin it an 1/8th of a turn at a time.  Speaking of washing it, I must have not tightened down the upper rad hose enough on the block side since it blew off the night after I took the head(lamp)-less picture, soaked right into the exhaust wrap on the headers. Was smoking like the legislative building grounds on 4/20 while it was burning off. Finally cleared up the other day so it wasn't too bad, but it looked pretty hilarious (and smelled awful) driving around and having a big cloud of white smoke billowing from the hood at stoplights.  Of course, I couldn't help but go take pictures in a nice field. Ground clearance is on par with your average sporty sedan so soft-roading is still an option without having to worry about being hung up on everything like the hellaflush crowd.  I've still got to snap some pictures of the exhaust wrap and clean the engine bay since there's coolant spots over a lot of it. Projects never really end, do they?  Also going to have to figure something out with the alternator, looking online it looks like I can buy the two bearings for the alternator and swap them myself, anybody got experience taking apart the alt? any tricks to it or is it as simple as it seems? Should probably mention, it's making a supercharger like whine when driving around, not too loud but enough to be annoying. Charges fine and no other issues, just sounds annoying.  And that's where it stands now. Fun to be back.
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Sep 18, 2014 18:43
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Looks awesome. And I recently had similar alignment problems at a local shop and pretty much gave up on the whole concept. I'm just going to learn string alignments.
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Sep 18, 2014 19:01
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Nice work! Who did you go to for the alignment? There's a great indie shop that does custom alignments if you want to shop around.
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Sep 19, 2014 00:16
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revmoo posted:I'm just going to learn string alignments. Honestly, probably a good skill to have. Have to look into it, probably can get as good or better than some of the machines. Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Who did you go to for the alignment? There's a great indie shop that does custom alignments if you want to shop around. Yeah, let me know which one you're talking about. I used to go to Keystone Ford when they had their AutoX alignment special, but I don't think they do that anymore. I took it to Birchwood Hyundai (haha, I have bad luck with Hyundai, I should have known) on Mcphilips since it's close to home, they have a new fancy drive on alignment rack, and they could slot me in that day (excited to get it going so I wanted it done asap) from what I heard they should have been competent. So yeah, current plan is to go back tomorrow and get this straightened out, if there's absolutely no way they'll fix what they screwed around with then I'll probably leave it as is for winter and get a proper alignment in the spring. It's aligned, just not to the specs I asked for, and negating the purpose of some aftermarket parts. Definitely not going back though.
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Sep 19, 2014 00:44
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Ugh, that sucks. I had a few alignments done at pep boys I think and just hung out behind the bay and "helped" the tech. Then I worked at places that had all the alignment stuff so I could do it myself didn't have to worry about it. At one place, suspension work, alignments, and corner balancing were a majority of the work. A camber gauge and toe plates are not that expensive. Good turn plates are, but there are some home made ways to do it. Strings on jack stands work pretty well too. jamal fucked around with this message at 08:07 on Sep 19, 2014 |
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Sep 19, 2014 08:04
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Hopefully I find some time over the winter and I'll learn how to do my own alignments. Went back and turns out they don't want to do custom alignments and the person working the front desk is new and shouldn't have taken in the job if I was wanting a custom alignment. Oh well, at least got refunded the extra labour. Steering wheel is still not straight but it's not off by much so I'll leave it until spring. In other news, took a break from school work and decided to cut up one of my old crazed headlamps to make a custom cold air intake duct in anticipation of autocross! A couple cuts with the knock-off dremel and cutting wheel, a quick spray of plastidip on the rear headlamp seal so it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb (originally it's an off-white plastic), resealing the lens onto the headlamp, and re-purposing a 3" offset intake duct/hose and voila!  Fiance has started calling my car The Terminator, haha.  It's a cheap (low low price of $Free and a few minutes of work) and it'll duct some cooler air directly into the intake box. Nothing really fancy or thoroughly thought out, but if it works it might be a fun thing to throw on at autocross for a cheap laugh and infinitesimal performance gain. (Wiring is pushed out of the way since I was playing with the headlamp, doesn't usually have a 180* bend right there)  Anybody can guess which intake piece I re-purposed?
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Sep 24, 2014 22:50
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Woop Woop! Time for an update. First off, the crappy phone camera pictures since I've been lazy with bringing out my DSLR so lets work our way from crappy pics to nicer looking pics. The Veloster is yet again having issues with it's GPS, and it's taking forever to fix. Last time they 'fixed' the issue, they broke the drivers center vent. A few weeks later they got the replacement vent in and in the process of swapping them out, they broke the passenger side vent. So we got to drive around for a few more weeks with our interior looking like this:  Seriously? Brand new car my rear end, this thing stopped feeling like a 'new' car a few weeks into ownership because of the amount issues we've had. Anyway, figured we'd sail on by to grab a few drinks at a local sports bar, finding a dock to land at was fairly easy.  In other news I helped friend take apart and put together his Acura TSX, we swapped the dash for a new one. Fun times.  We managed to pull it off fairly quickly, all in all took about 5 hours from start to finish with no prior experience with this particular dash nor any sort of service manuals to explain which way things came apart.  Oh, I bought Acura TL Bi-Xenon projectors for the Baja. The S2000 projectors didn't leave enough room for the highbeam without risking the projector shroud melting after extended use so it was time to go with a Bi-Xenon setup.  Unfortunately this meant that the LED halo's no longer fit because of the large size of the highbeam solenoid that is mounted under the projector. So I decided to just cut up the halo's and test them out to see if it would work.  Ta-Da! it worked, proof of concept shown above, with the finished product shown here below. I had WinnipegHID put in the TL projectors (I love the output, looks amazing at night with everything aimed properly now) and I'll have him throw in the LED halo's for a DRL when he's got a little more free time.  Snapped this quickly as well, gotta love boost. 150kpa is 21.75psi (I still have to get used to the SI unit, I keep wanting to think in PSI)  And just because it's a nice car doesn't mean it turns into a garage queen or something. It still gets used for its intended purpose.  OK, now with all the cellphone pics out of the way, enjoy some The beating heart behind the Baja  Nice closeup of the retro  Love the fall colours and the leaves  More Colour, more leaves  Contrast set to 11  Looks good from the back too  Fall is probably one of the best times of year.  Oh, and enjoy a video or two. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=laPC7Ddm9zM https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TeLacaN85HE That should be a big enough visual overload of an update.
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Oct 18, 2014 22:27
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Goddamn that car is beautiful. I've always liked the looks of the Baja and this is the car Subaru should have built.
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Oct 18, 2014 23:17
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I love the car other than the wheels and stickers.
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Oct 18, 2014 23:45
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Kenshin posted:Goddamn that car is beautiful. Thanks, I've tried to keep a factory-like appearance (so that you could mistake it for factory)with most of it, haven't always kept entirely true to that goal but oh well, I like my results. ultimateforce posted:I love the car other than the wheels and stickers. Which stickers? I've been fairly conservative with stickers, although my toolbox gets an addition every time I buy more parts. The cars plastered with stickers for every part the owner even thought of buying are just not my thing. And I'm looking to replace the wheels for next summer, thinking of just having these as my winter set next year and buying a nice summer set. Personally really like how these 5/10 spoke enkies look but the faces are a little worn and aren't worth refinishing. Was thinking something like a nice BBS multispoke, like the early oem optional WRX wheels, or something like the enkie nt03 but my fiance doesn't like them that much. Kinda worried going to a thin spoked wheel that it'll look like a fat cow on skinny legs. Have all winter to decide and figure something out
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Oct 19, 2014 00:13
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That BooSTIng thing doesn't do it for me. It's not my car so more power to you. I would totally throw some STi BBS wheels on there in silver. I'm looking to run something more aggressive on my SF5, but it's probably not your style. 
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Oct 19, 2014 01:32
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enki EKM3s or 04 STi bbs's with spacers Less is more. Or because you're in poutine land, get some nice jdm wheels.
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Oct 19, 2014 01:38
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I really like the EKM3's but every picture of them that is actually mounted on a car I don't like. Don't know if it's the offset or what, but something about them when I see them mounted in pictures just looks off to me. 04 STI BBS has been done, and I do like them, just have to find a set that's priced in lala-land for curb rashed and bent wheels. They do look pretty though  These were the WRX BBS wheels I was thinking of, they're forged wheels, OEM, and only 15lbs apparently.   And UF, honestly don't mind that style, but I feel like I'd get tired of it after a week. I also kinda like those twist wheels that I think WORK makes, I remember seeing a set for sale but I can't find it or track down the name.
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Oct 19, 2014 02:16
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Kenshin posted:Goddamn that car is beautiful. It's a crime that they didn't bring any to Australia. I would kill for one of these as a second car.
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Oct 19, 2014 12:59
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ultimateforce posted:I love the car other than the wheels and stickers. The wheels aren't overdone, and neither are the stickers. I would rock this Baja like no tomorrow - as long as I didn't have to put all of the work involved into it. 
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Oct 19, 2014 18:14
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The problem with those bbs wheels are the wrx version is only 7" wide I think, and the sti wheels 7.5. I would want something wider. Tires work best when the rim is a little wider than the tread, and some of the newer high performance summers run really wide. A 225 Hankook RS-3 for example is like 1/2" wider than some other tires of the same size and should go on an 8.5" wheel.
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Oct 19, 2014 18:51
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What about these BBS wheels? I had them on my old Forester and got them dirt cheap from a Subaru dealer clearing them out:  (ignore the ride height, there's a couple hundred sq.ft. of tile in the back when this was taken)
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Oct 19, 2014 23:47
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While we're talking about different wheels something about this build makes me want to see it with a wider black wheel so that it'd look more menacing  It's an awesome Baja for sure though.
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Oct 19, 2014 23:54
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Mat_Drinks posted:While we're talking about different wheels something about this build makes me want to see it with a wider black wheel so that it'd look more menacing I just found the last batch of these in Canada and grabbed a set for myself:  There might still be some left... but they're not very wide (or big - 15").
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Oct 20, 2014 04:24
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As I recently found out, some VW and Subaru guys are partial to the Wrangler Moab wheels. They're available in both 17" and 18" diameters. Sadly they're not very wide at 7.5". If fat 5 spokes are your thing. I for the life of me cannot find the pictures I saw of these on a Subaru wagon. They did look quite good. The upside to these wheels is that the wrangler guys pretty much give these away. I've seen sets of 5 go for less than $200. The downside is that due to the bolt pattern, you have to run adapters.
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Oct 20, 2014 05:30
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These come in 18x9 +40: http://www.enkei.com/rs05rr.shtml A little more expensive than your average enkei though at over $500 a piece.
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Oct 20, 2014 06:05
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Hmmm... choosing wheels is hard  I just bought the new set of summer tires, so I want to stay with 17" wheels, but it seems like going up to an 18" wheel gives me a lot more wheel options as well as colour options for various wheels that are offered in both 17" and 18". Currently running 17x7 +42 with 245/45/17 which is less than ideal for the 245 width, even 7.5" wheels are just on the edge of what's recommended by the manufacturer, so I definitely want to go with a wider wheel (like Jamal said, 8.5" or so), but that limits the options quite a bit in the 17" size. With the wedding coming up next year car-budget has been reduced to essentials only so most of this is just window shopping and trying to find something to shoot for when the budget allows. Wheel pricing seems to be a bit of a mystery to me too, I get that racing wheels or stuff made from/with exotic metals and processes is expensive, but there's others that are neither light nor contain fancy alloys that are in the $3k price range. Hell, even the Enkie FD-05's I have now are a cheap wheel, I think you can pick up a set for less that $700 new last I checked. And I have some bad news, just yesterday I managed to lock up the wheels in panic brake situation (Yay for cold temps at night making the summer tires less grippy) and managed to flatspot the front tires  A split second of lockup was enough to bring a section of tire from 8.9/32" tread to 6.5/32" tread. Could have been worst and that tread depth is till usable so I'll have to get the set shaved down. Still sucks knocking down ~35% of the tread-life on what's essentially a brand new set of tires. I'd like to think of this in a positive light as now the tires won't last as long and I can replace them with an 18" tire/wheel if I can't find anything in the 17" size that works / I like.Oh, and Jamal, do you sell wheels as well? E: Chiwie posted:It's a crime that they didn't bring any to Australia. I would kill for one of these as a second car. Yeah, it's weird that they wouldn't sell their new-ute in australia, the land that embraced the ute. Maybe the brunby/brat didn't sell that well over there? But then again, I don't know if it sold well in N/A anyway. I always thought the Baja was N/A only until recently, I started seeing pictures of them in Russia and Poland of all places. Don't know if there's some grey market importation happening or if they were actually sold in other markets. From the pictures I saw the rear license plate flip-up surround thingy is missing to make room for a euro-style plate. Bajaha fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Oct 20, 2014 |
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Oct 20, 2014 19:32
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There are a couple of wide 17" wheels. And yeah, with 245s I would want an 8.5 or even 9" wheel. These would be the right size: http://www.fastwrx.com/products/mach-v-17x9-awesome-wheel This comes in 17x9 +45, which might be too high of an offset actually: http://www.enkei.com/tsp6.shtml I can also check on a a set of these: http://www.teamdynamicsracing.com/pro-race/Pro-race12.htm
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Oct 20, 2014 20:22
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jamal posted:These come in 18x9 +40: I did a quick photoshop and I kinda like them. I think I need to get used to photoshop more and play around with different wheels, can't really get a feel for them by just looking at the faces alone. 
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Oct 22, 2014 19:25
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