|
Noeland posted:2 QUARTS? Not pints? Keep in mind your typical automatic holds at least a couple of gallons once you factor in the torque converter. Looks like the Volvo's AW70 holds 10-12 quarts, once you factor in the cooler and torque converter. You only get a small amount of that out of them when you drop/drain the pan.
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2014 06:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 11:56 |
|
|
re the Bro'd Jeep, my stepdad bought one of the big 4-door Wranglers a few years back - I think simply to affix as many Harley logos and billet items as possible to it. It's like a Grown Man's Curio cabinet. He has since talked my mom in buying a brand new Cherokee Trailhawk (almost top of the line trim package - offroad, tow package, etc). They're both mid/upper 50s and never go offroad. Also, buy that Tracker.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2014 13:39
|
|
|
DrPain posted:Thanks for all your kind words, everyone. It's very humbling. I hope he enjoys lying on hot pavement out in the sun, with just a jack and stands, without a lift, shade, power, air tools, stocked parts and fluids, and any of that other stuff that "overhead" enables. In other words, he better like working harder, longer, in worse conditions, for less money. Yeah, I guess he is stubborn.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2014 15:23
|
|
|
I found Mark's Christmas present
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2014 15:37
|
|
|
Hah. I'm actually getting this for my daughters for Christmas. That and a take-apart/put-together airplane.
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2014 15:44
|
|
|
Hey Dr. Pain. I have enjoyed your thread sorry to see it end the way it does. I also love you avatar. Did you play that game as a kid?
|
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2014 15:46
|
|
|
max4me posted:Hey Dr. Pain. Thanks, I'm glad you're enjoying it. It's not quite over just yet, I'll have a few more updates at least while I close this thing out. Playing Secret of Mana in elementary school is when I knew that I'd end up in some kind of business/sales role. Neko would hike his bitch rear end out into the woods or whatever poo poo dungeon you were in just to sell items for twice the price of the in town vendors. He didn't give a gently caress about the Hero of Mana or saving the world or any of that bullshit. He wanted to make some motherfucking coin, risking life and limb to earn a return on his investments. He taught me about risk, time value of money, and convenience fees before I even knew we had a name for those concepts. He is my spirit animal. DrPain fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Sep 19, 2014 |
|
#
?
Sep 19, 2014 16:04
|
|
|
I was wondering if you could give a little clarification about engine swaps with regards to emissions law in Nevada. You basically said that, aside from stock-for-stock, engine swaps are illegal, right? What constitutes an "upgrade" under emissions law? Does my Deville fall under that clause? Mine came with a 4.5 PFI, and when it broke a rocker retainer, I just swapped in a 4.9 PFI from a '94 Eldorado rather than go to the effort of pulling that enormously heavy iron head and repairing it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2014 02:31
|
|
|
Left Ventricle posted:I was wondering if you could give a little clarification about engine swaps with regards to emissions law in Nevada. You basically said that, aside from stock-for-stock, engine swaps are illegal, right? What constitutes an "upgrade" under emissions law? Does my Deville fall under that clause? Mine came with a 4.5 PFI, and when it broke a rocker retainer, I just swapped in a 4.9 PFI from a '94 Eldorado rather than go to the effort of pulling that enormously heavy iron head and repairing it. They may enforce things different in/around Vegas than they do here- but if it passes smog (or is old enough that it doesn't have to), they aren't going to bother. When you bring in a car to have it visually inspected, they don't even check the bulbs. Just look for a VIN, you pay $1, and get in line inside. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2014 03:14
|
|
|
Left Ventricle posted:I was wondering if you could give a little clarification about engine swaps with regards to emissions law in Nevada. You basically said that, aside from stock-for-stock, engine swaps are illegal, right? What constitutes an "upgrade" under emissions law? Does my Deville fall under that clause? Mine came with a 4.5 PFI, and when it broke a rocker retainer, I just swapped in a 4.9 PFI from a '94 Eldorado rather than go to the effort of pulling that enormously heavy iron head and repairing it. Keep the 4.5 covers and such on the 4.9, no tech will notice the difference. Technically, not legal. but what they do not know, will not hurt them.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2014 04:12
|
|
|
Viggen posted:They may enforce things different in/around Vegas than they do here- but if it passes smog (or is old enough that it doesn't have to), they aren't going to bother. When you bring in a car to have it visually inspected, they don't even check the bulbs. Just look for a VIN, you pay $1, and get in line inside. I've literally never even done a VIN inspection, and I've bought and sold dozens of cars here over the years. Many have not had stock motors at some point during this history. And it's not like Summit's "dockside pickup" option is unpopular for crate engines around here.
|
|
#
?
Sep 20, 2014 04:45
|
|
|
I've been doing boring non-car, office paperwork crap in preparation for my departure, but here's the highlights of what we've been working on lately. This 2003 Ford Expedition 5.4L V8 came in with complaints of A/C inoperable when driving uphill, check engine light, and in need of a smog check. We found the cells in the battery to be completely full of water, with not enough room to allow for heat expansion, and therefore boiling battery acid out of the cells and onto the vacuum hoses which control some of the A/C modes. Furthermore, the acid was also splashed all over the PCM, which was pretty loving terrifying, though thankfully the PCM suffered no damage. We serviced the battery, cleaned the acid off of the interior of the engine compartment best we could, then got to work tracing down the check engine light complaint. It had a code P0152, O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 high voltage (upstream O2 sensor on left side of engine). We traced the wiring harness to that O2 sensor back behind the cylinder head where it went into a wiring harness. A valve cover oil leak had eroded the insulation on the wiring to the O2 sensor, shorting it to 12v power for the heater, taking out the sensor. On an older vehicle this would have also likely taken out the PCM (a certain 94 E150 comes to mind), but newer modules are built with current limiters on all their circuits to prevent a similar catastrophe.  You can see some of that residual battery acid on the PCM at the top left of this picture, the battery sits right next to it towards the front of the vehicle.  Although we could see and physically touch the bald wires behind the engine, getting enough room to repair them required removal and re-installation of the intake manifold.  Bare wires pictured here. We cut out the bad sections and spliced in some longer wires, such that the wiring harness does not route behind the cylinder head. With that done, we replaced the O2 sensor and took it for a drive cycle. No codes returned, 4/5 emission monitors set including O2 heater and O2 sensor (a very welcome sign after working on that system), and it passed smog upon returning to the shop.  That old '89 Chevy 1ton with the TBI 454 and dumper also returned, this time running like absolute poo poo.  We found numerous reasons for it to be running in such a condition.   For starters, the distributor cap was rather chewed up. The distributor shaft had an excessive amount of play in it, allowing the rotor to not make good contact in the cap, and instead grinding into the plastic housing of the cap. We replaced the entire distributor assembly, along with spark plugs and wires after we found a spark plug oil fouled (not pictured).  These old trucks didn't have anything in the way of computerized electric modules to control shifting, and instead they run a little vacuum modulator to hold the transmission in gear with the throttle open (and therefore low vacuum). When the driver lifts his foot off the accelerator, the throttle plate closes, manifold vacuum builds, making it's way to the modulator through a vacuum hose. That vacuum pulls on a diaphragm to move a pin in this modulator out of the tranny, allowing it to upshift. Incredibly simple design, really, but the downside to that, and our problem today, is when that diaphragm in the modulator ruptures, transmission fluid is sucked through that vacuum tube into the intake. That transmission fluid then fouls spark plugs. I called the customer to explain the situation and ask if he had been adding any tranny fluid to it, to which he replied, and I quote "HOLY poo poo I HAD BEEN LOOKING FOR A TRANNY LEAK FOR MONTHS!"  Crazy to think that your tranny fluid had been burning up in the engine, not leaking, but with this system it's entirely possible.  Finally on this beast, whoever replaced the starter on this truck last managed to pinch a wire between the starter and engine block, and that's no bueno. We loosened the starter just enough to wiggle the wire free, then tightened it back down. Easy. Pinched wire at top left of the starter here.  A pair of Grandmas came in for an oil change. The first driving a '96 Mercury Grand Marquis with only 42k miles is in pristine shape. She spends her summers with the family back east in Ohio to avoid the heat, and her winters in Las Vegas to avoid the snow. Smart lady, imo.  Her BFF and partner in cribbage rolls a similar '99 Mercury Grand Marquis, this one sitting at 72k miles as she spends the whole year in town. Neither were in need of anything other than a simple routine oil change and they came in together one morning. It's cute to see a pair of Grandma Mercury enthusiasts, I'm convinced they get together on weekends to drool over lumbar support mods and the like.  Our college kid S10 returned, in need of an oil change, 5k past due tisk tisk. They also complained of excess vibration and a noise under the hood.   The engine mounts we knew were bad last time around, but doing the clutch took priority. The engine is now sagging so low that the fan blade is impacting the lower radiator shroud making one hell of a racket.  Notice the new mounts are one piece, not two. That's important! These mounts are a relatively easy job on this little 2.2L engine.   Additionally, we found the bushings deteriorated on the upper control arms, and replaced both arm assemblies with new ball joints. Both the mounts and the bushings are serviceable as press-in rubber inserts but the labor involved in cutting/burning out the old bushings is in both cases more than buying a new assembly. If you were doing this job yourself at home, that would be the cheaper option but in a professional shop our time is money. The kids parents keep asking me if we think the truck will last through college, and I keep telling them "IF YOU CHANGE THE OIL ON TIME, YEAH. 5K PAST DUE, TISK TISK CHILD!"  A nearby shop which we are friends with brought this '86 Corvette in for a smog check after doing some major goddamn repairs to it.  Those are the pushrods it bent. The owners let it sit and sit in their garage till the fuel turned to varnish then decided to jump on the freeway one fine day. The bad fuel stuck some of the valves at high RPM and bent or broke a good number of pushrods. The buddy shop tore the fucker apart and repaired the problem, and brought it by to relate the story while we smogged it.  It smogged with flying colors and no adjustments needed.  This thing is SO 80S. Makes me wanna put on an acid wash denim jacket and rock some Whitesnake with the targa top off while doing burnouts in a grocery store parking lot then go vote conservative. gently caress yeah.  Speaking of smogs, a much less interesting '94 Saturn dropped by late one evening to be smogged the following morning. The customer neglected to mention it needed a jump start to limp it's way down to the shop and the next morning we found the battery stone dead. Thanks, jerk! Why people withhold vital information from their mechanic still confuses me.  That same day, we worked on a 2002 Chrysler Sebring, which is staying in the family after it's late owner passed, RIP.  I'm told it's being given to their youngest daughter to drive off to college in California. "NOT ON THOSE TIRES!" I told them when they came to pay for the oil change and brakes it was due for. You should know by now where I sent them.  Speaking of brakes, we had a 2001 Toyota Tundra in the shop for rear brakes recently as well!  The rear drums brakes were worn down so badly that the shoe had carved a lip into the drum, it was quite a challenge to dislodge the shoes and remove the drum.  I tried real, real hard to get a good shot of the lip carved into the drum and this was the best I can manage.  A quick spin on the brake lathe ground that lip right the gently caress out, though, and the job was completed much faster than it began.  Just as I finish this update, our old friend the '03 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Duramax/Allison is back AGAIN. This time for a no-start, and our initial fear is the fuel injector control module (FICM, pronounced PHICK-AM) has poo poo the bed. If that turns out the be the case then holy poo poo, this truck is trying to kill it's loving owner. Not a cheap part in the slightest. DrPain fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Sep 26, 2014 |
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2014 23:01
|
|
|
Holy poo poo a working 80s digital dash. I'm amazed that has survived out here. I used to make bank fixing powerjoke FICMs.  SUCKERS
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2014 23:11
|
|
|
That S10 has the 2200 SFI doesn't it? I swear that engine was intended to be abused. I'd be more worried about the motor mounts getting broken (that is grade-A clutch/neutral drop burnout damage - my old 06 WRX had similar damage with a bent heatshield on its motor mounts when I bought it from the exact same behaviour) than running way over an oilchange interval.  DrPain posted:
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2014 23:20
|
|
|
DrPain posted:Why people withhold vital information from their mechanic still confuses me. "I swear I slipped and fell on it" <ER docs remove full size maglite from mans rear end in a top hat> Same reasoning, IMO. That is a weird failure mode on the tranny modulator, I would never think of that as I am used to electronically shifted transmissions.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2014 23:52
|
|
|
kastein posted:
I dealt with a C6 that did that. FPRs tend to fail in a similar fashion.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2014 00:14
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:That S10 has the 2200 SFI doesn't it? I swear that engine was intended to be abused. Yeah that vintage of S10 got the 2.2L. Stout little motor, good choice for college kid. I didn't get a look at the valves, the other shop only brought the pushrods over. cursedshitbox posted:I dealt with a C6 that did that. Yep that was my first thought when I unbox'd the modulator, it looks like an overgrown Fuel Pressure Regulator. DrPain fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Sep 26, 2014 |
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2014 00:27
|
|
|
DrPain posted:These old trucks didn't have anything in the way of computerized electric modules to control shifting, and instead they run a little vacuum modulator to hold the transmission in gear with the throttle open (and therefore low vacuum). When the driver lifts his foot off the accelerator, the throttle plate closes, manifold vacuum builds, making it's way to the modulator through a vacuum hose. That vacuum pulls on a diaphragm to move a pin in this modulator out of the tranny, allowing it to upshift. Incredibly simple design, really, but the downside to that, and our problem today, is when that diaphragm in the modulator ruptures, transmission fluid is sucked through that vacuum tube into the intake. That transmission fluid then fouls spark plugs. My 80 F-150 (351M + C6) had the exact same failure, and had me trying to figure out where the gently caress the leak was for months. Had to be one of the easiest fixes I ever did to that stupid thing once I had the part. DrPain posted:Yeah that vintage of S10 got the 2.2L. Stout little motor, good choice for college kid. One of my coworkers managed to toss a rod from a 2.2 S10 recently. Turns out they kind of like having oil in them for some weird reason.  It was gonna die from the timing chain guides sooner or later (sooner), windowing the block just prevented him from junking it a week sooner. Made it to a little north of 200k though.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2014 09:02
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Holy poo poo, I never would have thought bad gas could do that! How did the valves look? Yeah I don't really see how that's possible...
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2014 10:09
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:My 80 F-150 (351M + C6) had the exact same failure, and had me trying to figure out where the gently caress the leak was for months. Motherfucker, count another dude who just found out where the hell all his nice Valvoline DexIII transmission fluid is going. 1980 F-250, 302W + C6.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2014 10:12
|
|
|
Those S10 2.2s are pretty unkillable. My dad had one for years as his high-mile work truck. Zero power, confoundingly difficult clutch, but it made it well north of 230k before the body/suspension turned to dust after a dozen Ohio winters.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2014 12:25
|
|
|
aventari posted:Yeah I don't really see how that's possible... I've replaced worse looking pushrods in trucks before. Those lifters like being springy for some reason.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2014 15:09
|
|
|
DrPain posted:Her BFF and partner in cribbage It's stuff like this that's going to make me miss this thread the most
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2014 15:34
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:That S10 has the 2200 SFI doesn't it? I swear that engine was intended to be abused. I'm not sure if bad gas does that, but I suffered a similar plight which I blamed on bad gas. After repairing a fuel tank on my pickup I ran it of the old gas and intended to dilute it. I underestimated the amount of gas I put in the tank and ended up running on a lot of expired fuel. The next day I was running on seven cylinders when a valve stuck and the pushrod fell out. I seafoamed it and struck all the valves to ensure they were running free and it's been fine since.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2014 17:55
|
|
|
Beach Bum posted:Motherfucker, count another dude who just found out where the hell all his nice Valvoline DexIII transmission fluid is going. 1980 F-250, 302W + C6. I'm more amazed that there's still another 1980 F-150 running around. What trim package? Mine was a Ranger XLT, which still somehow had manual windows/locks, but a digital clock on the dash (IIRC it even had a trip clock), plus an AM/FM stereo cassette player, and actual carpet. Radio sounded decent until the heater core popped and soaked the radio.  I never fixed the heater core, just bypassed it.IIRC the modulator is 1 bolt and 1 hose, though it's been close to 20 years since I got rid of it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2014 08:40
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:I'm more amazed that there's still another 1980 F-150 running around. What trim package? Mine was a Ranger XLT, which still somehow had manual windows/locks, but a digital clock on the dash (IIRC it even had a trip clock), plus an AM/FM stereo cassette player, and actual carpet. Radio sounded decent until the heater core popped and soaked the radio. Why would you EVER get rid of such a beautiful truck?! Custom package. http://imgur.com/a/SKMpk Currently in need of a new flywheel, hasn't run in awhile. I also bypassed the heater core when it broke
Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Sep 28, 2014 |
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2014 04:05
|
|
|
 Same wheels I had on mine, and one half of the same color (mine was two tone brown/beige). When I got it, it had dogdish hubcaps + steelies that I regret getting rid of, but I got the wheels and a set of tires for something stupid cheap like $200.It was a massive pile of poo poo that had been neglected and run into the ground by the previous owner, and at the time, wasn't worth fixing when the transmission took a poo poo. The rear crank seal didn't exist anymore either. Mine had the two tank option (but not the dog option), and ditched a couple of gauges for lights (oil + alternator). And the factory digital clock was in the center pod above the radio - I thought it was pretty awesome for a 1980 to have a VFD clock.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 11:12 on Sep 28, 2014 |
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2014 11:09
|
|
|
Don't get me wrong, there's a hole the size of both feet in the driver's floorboard and nothing in the interior works save the gauges the bed is rusting away at the hinges, it killed a Chevy Colorado and has rust on the door from where I pried it out against the paint with a shovel, but it is MY shitpile truck, and the first car I ever owned outright, and I will fight you if you hurt her feelings 
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2014 17:35
|
|
|
I been interviewing and otherwise not spending as much time in the shop lately, but here is some of what has been rolling through lately. A '99 Ford Taurus with 73k miles came in for an oil change and had complaints of power steering noise. More than the normal Ford p/s whine, I mean.  It had developed a severe leak at the rack and pinion assembly, though oddly enough not on either boot. The front seal in the pinion itself had been leaking for a while, the system would run low on fluid, and the pump eventually scored itself and developed the noise that the driver noticed.  That's part of the subframe we had to unbolt to get the fucker out. This was not an easy nor cheap repair, to remove and replace the rack and pinion assembly. I did not advise the customer to proceed with the repair on a bubble era Taurus. I explicitly told them to take the quoted $1200 a new power steering pump + rack and pinion would cost towards a new car. But some people are immune to good advice.  This goofy rear end exhaust also required removal.  If you'll excuse the work light LENSFLARE, you can see the hole in the left front fender well where the rack and pinion eventually slides out of.  One of A-1 Cardone's finest rebuilt pieces of poo poo went back in, because they have the market cornered on rebuilding power steering parts and the customer didn't want a new motorcraft part for double the price.  I'm glad I got the chance to post about this one, it's a 1954 F250, which has been questionably restomodded.  I say questionably, starting with the fact that it's a 3/4 ton F250 with 8 lug wheels and a solid front axle with no power steering and drum brakes all around. Steering it requires the driver to be both mighty, and alert. The straight axle likes to wander all over the road and you're constantly chasing it with the wheel to correct. No power steering complicates the matter, both hands and a firm grip are required at all times to get the wheel turning. Fancy 8 lug wheels are a bit of a rarity, and the owner had to settle for these rather than have their pick.  Interior was done cheaply with scratchy wool like material.  Himself another Native Hawaiian, the Hawaii state flag headliner is really the only part of the interior that I don't hate.  Bad picture of the front. I have the owners permission to post his custom plates on the internet, the truck was restomodded specifically to take his 2 labs to the park on Sundays.  An interesting F250 feature, it's got a ball hitch behind the front bumper on the left side.  And of course, the engine! It's a Ford 302 V8 out of a 71 Mustang. It came in this week with complaints of fuel and coolant leaks. The fuel leak was easy. It spends most of it's time sitting, and the accelerator pump on the carb had rotted through (not pictured). The coolant leak though, you might notice a shop rag in the timing cover there. Yeah.  Yeah.  Yeah. loving ancient coolant turned acidic from sitting so long, and ate through the timing cover. It gets better, though.  This used to be a thermostat outlet. We replaced both the timing cover and t-stat outlet, flushed the system, and filled it with new pretty gold extended life antifreeze. The owner informs me it is for sale! They are asking $17k and will not get anywhere close to that figure. In my estimation it'll fetch $4-5k TOPS, because it is all, all wrong. If it were a F150 with disc brake conversion, power steering, and IFS, then sure, it'd fetch $20k all day. But this? This is not the barrett-jackson restomod they think it is. Beautiful truck, but far too personalized and wrong model to be worth the big bucks.  Switching gears now, we had a 2006 BMW 325i in the shop for failed smog. This is the same one we did brakes on some months ago. Check engine light illuminated, stored code P1017, indicating a fault in the Valvetronic Eccentric Shaft Sensor. Get out your mining pick and canary everybody, because it's time to go spelunking in the depths of depravity that only a German engineer could turn out.  Valvetronic is BMW's name for variable valve timing, and they do it differently than everybody else. Try not to ask yourself "but why?". Instead of using oil pressure and a solenoid actuator to advance or retard the timing of the camshaft itself like Honda's often imitated (for a good reason) VTEC, BMW cobbled up this loving poo poo:   It's got an electric throttle, of course, so when the driver steps on the accelerator pedal and the PCM decides it wants to advance valve timing, it commands an electric motor to turn an added "eccentric shaft" which acts on an intermediate rocker arm to open the valve deeper. All in the name of efficiency, but in stereotypical German fashion, hilariously unreliable. The eccentric shaft has it's own sensor to report the shaft angle to the PCM, and it likes to leak oil internally.  Which is what we found here, at the top front of the valve cover. Look at this loving thing. 9 goddamn pins, not a cheap part. You'd think they could make it a little more robust.  Removing the valve cover grants us access to the eccentric shaft sensor itself, and also a moment to examine the running joke that is the Valvetronic system.  Camshaft at the top of this picture, eccentric shaft buried just below it, lined up with the eccentric shaft sensor.  Another look at this mechanical mess.   The old sensor, once removed. Luckily I was able to determine that VDO is the OE supplier for BMW on this part and I found one in the aftermarket for less than half of what the BMW dealer wanted. The savings were passed along to the customer, who was elated not to pay the king's ransom of full list from the BMW dealership without a dip in build quality. To add insult to injury, the valve cover bolts are made from a titanium aluminum alloy and were also a necessary replacement.  The job was completed today and I am waiting on the customer to pick it up, then I've got another interview late this afternoon. edit: To follow up on the Durmax/Allison from last update, we fiddled with the FICM electrical connection and got it to start and run again. Modules don't magically fix themselves, so we're pretty sure it must have been a loose connection from reassembly following the water pump. I just wish the fucker would have quit on our test drive before giving it back to the customer! 
DrPain fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Oct 10, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2014 20:57
|
|
|
So glad my 1992 poormobile BMW doesn't have any variable valve timing. I'll take 18mpg all day long, thanks!
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2014 22:07
|
|
|
DrPain posted:Modules don't magically fix themselves They can if there's a cold solder joint at the connector. Wiggle the connector and it works for a bit, then randomly stops working again.
|
|
#
?
Oct 10, 2014 23:29
|
|
|
Hi DrPain this is Aventari's friend we are in Vegas and are having car troubles. Can you email him at his username at gmail. We would really appreciate it. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Oct 11, 2014 02:25
|
|
|
thx for the help, I ended up just driving the car back to SD on the leaky radiator as it was only losing a few oz of coolant an hour.  I'll fix the radiator next weekend Your Vegas craps tables took a shitload of my money though! 
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2014 08:31
|
|
|
This thread is influencing Amazon's algorithms. Note the last product. PS your Batman idea is terrible don't do it
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2014 19:36
|
|
|
aventari posted:thx for the help, I ended up just driving the car back to SD on the leaky radiator as it was only losing a few oz of coolant an hour. Glad to hear it. I'm not a big gambler, so I'm never down. The most I'll ever do is play $7 bingo which takes an hour per round and comes with two free drinks. Grandmas get SUPER competitive at bingo and it's fun as hell. Tremek posted:This thread is influencing Amazon's algorithms. Note the last product. Nice. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 13, 2014 23:01
|
|
|
DrPain posted:gently caress the haters, I like it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2014 00:35
|
|
|
Left Ventricle posted:gently caress the haters, I like it. This guy "gets" it. e- Looking at that picture now though, I realize that one of my hood bumpers is way out of adjustment.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2014 00:51
|
|
|
DrPain posted:Looking at that picture now though, I realize that one of my hood bumpers is way out of adjustment. I am constantly bending the headlight covers on the Miata back in line with the hood; I just can't help leaning on the drat things when I'm working under the hood.
|
|
#
?
Oct 14, 2014 05:39
|
|
|
 This 1990 Ford F250 7.5L V8 was given to a customer for free, and there's nothing more expensive than a free vehicle. It sat for several years while the gas turned to poo poo, then the owners decided to fire it up one day. Bad idea. Bad gas did what bad gas usually does, stuck a valve, bent some pushrods. It's going to need a ton of work, but THAT'S OK BECAUSE IT WAS FREE! The customer estimates it is a $5k truck and is ready to spend that much fixing the pushrods, replacing both fuel tanks and pumps, and whatever the hell else we find wrong with it.  Holy poo poo that glare. This is a big loving engine, at 460 cubic inches, and was Ford's response to GM's 454 big block.  The interior is pristine, even though the red on red truck is straight out of somebodies late 80s quaalude fueled nightmare.  Complete with CB radio, so you can talk to the truckers. 10-4 good buddy!  5 digit odo reads 47k miles, and I believe those are they original miles. Interior is too nice and engine is too clean (aside from spiders and other critters from sitting) for it to be 147k.  First step is draining the bad gas out of the tanks. We disconnected the fuel filter and jumpered this connection at the ALDL to make the fuel pump run full time, and got a whooooole lot of drain pans ready. Eventually we'll be dropping the tanks to replace them, but first... Let's yank that intake off and see what we find!   Yep those are pushrods and lifters just laying there. Old gas stuck several intake valves, owners tried to start it, bent the pushrods and ejected the lifters.  Further cranking then filled the intake port with bad gas, this will need to be evacuated before spinning it over again, lest the cylinder get hydrolocked.   That truck will be a work in progress for a while. Meanwhile!  This 2004 4Runner 4.0 (that's a lot of 4's) came in a year ago for a water pump. We noted at the time that it had some oil leaks from the rear main seal and they have returned today to address that repair.  Step one: remove transmission.  Flexplate too.  Giving us access to the rear of the engine, where the oil seal at the back side of the crank had been leaking.  Old seal.  New seal.  While we were in there, we figured we might as well reseal the oil pan as well. Good thing, it was full of sludge!     Pickup screen for the oil pump wasn't too clean either. We gave it a bath in the parts washer.  Here you can see part of the crankshaft. You don't want that sludge to get into the crank bearings, because That's Bad™. We've done more work this week, but I'm finding it hard to give a gently caress about most of it. I have found a buyer for the shop and will be selling it at the end of the month. 
DrPain fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Oct 17, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2014 23:57
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 11:56 |
|
|
DrPain posted:I have found a buyer for the shop and will be selling it at the end of the month. It's the end of an era I guess you have found work already?
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2014 01:30
|
|
