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On one hand, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Believe it or not, at that time OCZ was the brightest and most innovative name in solid state drives. New drives are better, yeah, but for its era that drive was revolutionary. On the other hand, even if all that is true and I've just defended OCZ, ye gods, a drive that old and small may well have write endurance problems. Wear-leveling was not good back then. If you want to replace it, I'd probably go for a Crucial MX100. They are slow, slow drives by the standards of their competition, but they're fully featured, cheap as heck, and still a drat sight better than a hard drive or ancient OCZ Vertex. I don't know as the speed would be useful or how much you really need more write endurance, though. I don't even know if the original drive supported TRIM. Is your drive on the latest firmware, version 1.7?
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Oct 12, 2014 17:53
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Factory Factory posted:On one hand, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Believe it or not, at that time OCZ was the brightest and most innovative name in solid state drives. New drives are better, yeah, but for its era that drive was revolutionary. It would be stock firmware. The drive itself sees very little write activity since everything, including the xbmc database is in the zfs array.
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Oct 12, 2014 18:07
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Zero VGS posted:Someone refresh my memory, back when they had a developer preview for Windows 8, there was no way to later purchase a retail copy of Windows 8 and convert the preview into a full version without a clean re-install, correct? I just downloaded a Windows 10 preview, and I was going to install it to a new PC to dick around with, just wondering if I should plan for a full wipe or if it might be convertible. You could hack it, but I never really kept track of the outcomes for that. In any case, I'd work from 'expect to suddenly have to pave your system drive and lose everything on it (and certainly when Windows 10 hits prime time) because are you seriously trying to save money up front by running an alpha OS', with anything beyond that a bonus.
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Oct 12, 2014 18:27
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I figured. I have extra paid copies of Win 7, so this is less about saving money and more about previewing all the Win10 features since I'm an IT guy and should get a head start. I'm reading that DirectX 12 is only going to be included with the retail version though, so that makes this a less appealing idea on the personal use side of things.
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Oct 12, 2014 19:00
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Set VMware Workstation (VMware Player or VirtualBox, if you're low on disposable income) to Windows 8.1, install the preview in one of those, and go hog wild. This won't really work if you feel a need for immersion testing, obviously.
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Oct 12, 2014 19:20
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So here is where I am at; I have a Lenovo D10 workstation with a NVIDIA Quadro FX 4600 768 MB PCI Express video card in it. I use it for photoshop, internet, watching old episodes of Scrubs, and playing games. It's always played whatever games I wanted to, until Alien Isolation and Call of Duty Ghosts. Turns out I need a higher direct X so am looking for a new video card. I'd love any suggestions, I'm super cheap tho. Here is a copy paste of the specs. Tower form factor Two (2) Xeon E5410 2.33 GHz quad-core processors 1333 MHz bus speed, 12 MB L2 Cache, Intel Virtualization Technology (VT-x), Intel 64, Idle States, Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology, Intel Demand Based Switching, Thermal Monitoring Technologies, Execute Disable Bit Intel 5400A chipset 8 GB DDR2 PC2-5300 Fully Buffered RAM (supports up to 64 GB) Two (2) 73 GB 15,000 RPM SAS hard hard drives DVD-ROM SATA drive No floppy drive NVIDIA Quadro FX 4600 768 MB PCI Express video card Integrated audio Integrated Intel 82563EB Gigabit Ethernet LAN Rack mountable (with optional rail kit, not included) Power button Motherboard Features: Two (2) PCI Express x16 slots (one occupied by video card) Two (2) PCI Express x4 slots (x8 mechanical) (one occupied by video card) Video card requires two expansion slots Two (2) PCI-X slots One (1) PCI slot Five (6) SATA connectors (one occupied) Five (5) SAS connectors (two occupied) Eight (8) 240-pin DDR2 DIMM sockets
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Oct 12, 2014 19:29
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Well... The LAN is still top-notch! Seriously, though, I would not dump any more money into that machine. That's the old Core 2 architecture, it's running at low clock speeds, many games can utterly hork up in dual-socket systems, and the hard drives and power supply are well past the age where they should be trusted. It's time to upgrade. You could buy your future video card now and slot it in, I suppose. Since you're "super cheap," maybe a GeForce 750 Ti, but your system could handle most cards on the market in terms of power draw, based on the power draw of your existing card. But gains will be limited by CPU performance. I mean... Each of those beefy chips is matched by the Intel Atom chip found in 8" Windows tablets these days.
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Oct 12, 2014 19:39
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Billy Black posted:I've recently upgraded my video card and subsequently my power supply. But my computer is running pretty slow, and I'm not sure what to upgrade next. And it's slow to do anything at all. Boot up, load a web page, load winamp, right click on the screen, etc. The plan is, of course, to upgrade everything. But I'm going to have to space it out, so I want to do this in order of importance and necessity. I'm assuming RAM, hard drive space, and processor are all going to help improve the speed of my computer. While an SSD will definitely increase the general speed of the computer (quite noticibly as well), I would make the CPU a priority for a couple of reasons. If this is primarily for gaming, an SSD will allow you to open things and load programs (much, much, much) faster, but it won't really make your computer any more "powerful." Aside from that, given the age of your motherboard, there's the possibility the BIOS won't support AHCI, which you really want for an SSD, although that's relatively easy to check and could be a non-issue. While you'll have to replace your motherboard if you go with a modern CPU, you may be able to hang onto your RAM if it's DDR3. All that being said, an SSD is always a wonderful upgrade and I would still highly recommend getting one. If your computer really is running as slowly as you describe, there's probably something else going on, though, like a malware infection or something. For reference, I'm typing this from a laptop with 3GB of RAM and a mobile Core 2 Duo with half the clock speed of yours with about 20 tabs open in Chrome and I'm not having any problems with it.
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Oct 12, 2014 21:01
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I'm trying to advise a friend on how to build a computer to play Divinity: Original Sin for under $650. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($177.98 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: ASRock H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($81.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Kingston Fury Black Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($79.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card ($134.99 @ NCIX US) Case: Cooler Master N300 ATX Mid Tower Case ($55.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair CSM 450W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Amazon) Total: $645.90 This is what I've got so far. Have I cut any corners I shouldn't cut, or are there any more efficient ways to get the same results? And if I had to downgrade either the processor to an i3 or the graphics card to a plain 750 instead of a 750ti, which would be a better idea? Would buying a more performance-oriented card from an older generation be viable?
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Oct 12, 2014 21:49
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Shima Honnou posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_Mso3V5SAw The Lord Bude posted:I'd still get the evolv, it's super easy to build in and the performance is perfectly good. the mATX cube cases all have issues with them. A prodigy/phenom/colossus mATX probably wouldn't be too bad either. I have also considered a mATX Prodigy M/phenom/colossus and adding a 140mm rear and 200/230mm bottom fan, that way it can have filtered dual 120mm intakes in the top with the fans it comes with and a 140mm rear and 200/230mm bottom exhaust, which as far as I can tell is the best way to handle airflow from what I've read in reviews and forum posts about it. It seems videocards really benefit from getting air blown down directly onto them. Or I can go full ridiculousness and also get a giant 200mm magnetic fan filter and put that on the bottom and make the bottom fan the intake as well, intaking from the top and the bottom, but that probably isn't needed. The downsides of the mATX Prodigy/colossus/phenom being similar to the SG10 in being cramped and difficult to build in. Also one review on amazon said that it killed their hard drives due to the drives being so close to the CPU cooler in either configuration (side panel HD mount or floor HD mount, although with the floor HD mount you cannot have the bottom 200/230mm fan). What do you think? Assepoester fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Oct 12, 2014 |
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Oct 12, 2014 21:53
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The Lord Bude posted:Your CPU is ancient, replacing that would make a huge difference, but getting a solid state drive will also be a life changing experience. I'd suggest doing both if at all possible - and yes you will need to replace the motherboard and ram as well. depending on what you have now I'd be tempted to do the case to while you're at it but that's a secondary concern. I can't really afford to do all of it at the moment, but it's seriously reminding me of using dial up over a lovely connection. I can't take it much longer, or I may go insane. The Lord Bude posted:Ideally you should save up and do the SSD at the same time as everything else, and then do a fresh install of windows. When I finally get around to upgrading the rest of my computer, I'll definitely update the case as well. So that shouldn't be a concern. But what is the reason for waiting on the hard drive? If it noticeably speeds up my computer, I'd do about anything at this point.
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Oct 12, 2014 22:00
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Tuxedo Catfish posted:I'm trying to advise a friend on how to build a computer to play Divinity: Original Sin for under $650. Unless both you and your friend are terrified of overclocking, an overclocked G3258 in a Z97 motherboard would be a good way to save some money on the processor that can then go to a beefier video card. That is, if gaming-performance is the most important thing for the build.
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Oct 12, 2014 22:01
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Erotic Thomas posted:While an SSD will definitely increase the general speed of the computer (quite noticibly as well), I would make the CPU a priority for a couple of reasons. If this is primarily for gaming, an SSD will allow you to open things and load programs (much, much, much) faster, but it won't really make your computer any more "powerful." Aside from that, given the age of your motherboard, there's the possibility the BIOS won't support AHCI, which you really want for an SSD, although that's relatively easy to check and could be a non-issue. I've run a few Malware scans. I was starting to think the hard drive might be failing, but I don't know what it is. How would I check if my BIOS supports AHCI?
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Oct 12, 2014 22:09
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Instant Grat posted:Unless both you and your friend are terrified of overclocking, an overclocked G3258 in a Z97 motherboard would be a good way to save some money on the processor that can then go to a beefier video card. I won't be there in person and it's her first time building anything. I'll mention the idea but it'd probably be easier for both of us not to add extra steps to the process.
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Oct 12, 2014 22:17
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Anyone else a fan of Mini itx systems that support full sized graphic cards? I'm currently set up in a bitfenix prodigy, which is nice but I know I could get down to an even smaller case, like the RVZ01 and upgrade to a GTX970 while I'm at it.Erotic Thomas posted:While you'll have to replace your motherboard if you go with a modern CPU, you may be able to hang onto your RAM if it's DDR3. All that being said, an SSD is always a wonderful upgrade and I would still highly recommend getting one. His RAM is ddr2. VulgarandStupid fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Oct 12, 2014 |
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Oct 12, 2014 22:38
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Instant Grat posted:Unless both you and your friend are terrified of overclocking, an overclocked G3258 in a Z97 motherboard would be a good way to save some money on the processor that can then go to a beefier video card. Any H97 can overclock that CPU with a bios update. Also the guy picked a micro ATX motherboard and a full ATX case, so the Microcenter G3258/mobo combo could save money, or switching to a Micro ATX case would save space.
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Oct 12, 2014 22:41
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VulgarandStupid posted:Anyone else a fan of Mini itx systems that support full sized graphic cards? I'm currently set up in a bitfenix prodigy, which is nice but I know I could get down to an even smaller case, like the RVZ01 and upgrade to a GTX970 while I'm at it. Hello. I've got my i5-2500K and GeForce 680 crammed into a Prodigy, as well, with closed-loop liquid cooling on each. I need to rethink my side panel mod, though. I replaced the big acrylic window with a sheet of mesh and it actually lets a lot of noise through. Though by "a lot" I mean "at load it sounds like the last version did idling," but it's high-frequency noise. Since I ruined the finish, I really should do something about it anyway. Maybe get a set of black side panels.
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Oct 12, 2014 22:54
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Factory Factory posted:Hello. I've got my i5-2500K and GeForce 680 crammed into a Prodigy, as well, with closed-loop liquid cooling on each. Nice, I've got a 2600k and a gtx670. Only the processor is on closed loop, an h100. But it's a bit silly since I dont over clock because I don't think any of my games demand it. I've come to the realization that I don't need more than a single 2.5" SSD and a 3.5" HDD or more than a single graphics card. I certainly haven't used an internal dvd drive in years. Are you going to include a section on going mini ITX in the OP? I feel the price premium has come down to a reasonable level, while it does add parts compatibility issues and building difficulties there are pretty great resources for those through simple googling. VulgarandStupid fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Oct 13, 2014 |
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Oct 13, 2014 00:10
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I'm waiting for some ram to come in, but in the mean time I have different sticks of DDR3 1333mhz. Any chance 9-10-A0 and 9-10-B0 will play along with each other? They are a 1gb and a 2gb stick respectively.
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Oct 13, 2014 01:12
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I'm currently using an AMD Radeon R7 200 Series on a pre-built (i.e. no PCIe power supply). Would it be worth it to upgrade to another card that doesn't require upgrading the PSU? I'm looking at the GTX 750 Ti. Any other contenders?
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Oct 13, 2014 02:55
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Again with the stuff that's in the OP. Thanks to the power of Maxwell the 750 Ti's the best card that fits on bus power, and given how hot (the good kind) Maxwell is - except for nVidia's trash luck shrinking it - and how hot (the bad kind) AMD's premier platforms are, it's probably going to stay that way for A While.
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Oct 13, 2014 02:59
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Sir Unimaginative posted:Again with the stuff that's in the OP. Sorry, I did see it in the OP but I wasn't sure if it was a worthwhile upgrade from my current card. That's why I asked. 
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Oct 13, 2014 03:01
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Ah. Well, R7-200 leaves a lot out. It depends on what $160 means to you and what you might be able to get for the AMD on eBay or something, but if you're limited to bus power nothing comes close to the 750 Ti and probably nothing will within its useful life. Same reason the 970 ruined the market for anything that isn't the 970 or on fire sale.
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Oct 13, 2014 03:03
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Sir Unimaginative posted:Ah. Well, R7-200 leaves a lot out. It depends on what $160 means to you and what you might be able to get for the AMD on eBay or something, but if you're limited to bus power nothing comes close to the 750 Ti and probably nothing will within its useful life. Same reason the 970 ruined the market for anything that isn't the 970 or on fire sale. Hell, the 970 ruined the market for the 970 too! I ordered mine 8 days ago and amazon can't even give me an estimate on when they'll ship it.
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Oct 13, 2014 03:22
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I'm looking at building a PC for the first time, and this is the place to go for help, I guess. I have a hard budget of 950$, and my main uses would be gaming, streaming, and some video editing. Gaming wise, I mostly play Warcraft and whatever is on sale on Steam. I don't need super fancy graphics on the latest games, but I'd like to play newer games with decent settings at 60fps and 1080p. Streaming is just a every now and again thing, just for fun, and video editing is amateur stuff, again just for fun. So not really knowing what I'm doing, I consulted a few basic guides and came up with this. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($177.98 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: ASRock H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($81.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Team Vulcan 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($68.99 @ Newegg) Storage: A-Data Premier Pro SP600 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($59.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital RE4-GP 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($82.00 @ Amazon) Video Card: HIS Radeon R9 280X 3GB IceQ X² Video Card ($229.99 @ Newegg) Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($47.99 @ Mwave) Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Newegg) Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24F1ST DVD/CD Writer ($14.99 @ Amazon) Total: $813.90 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-12 22:39 EDT-0400 I already have my mouse, keyboard, and monitor, as well as a copy of Windows 8. Is this overkill, is there anything I could trim, anything I should upgrade? I'm completely new to this and don't want to gently caress it up.
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Oct 13, 2014 03:42
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Zero VGS posted:Any H97 can overclock that CPU with a bios update. Also the guy picked a micro ATX motherboard and a full ATX case, so the Microcenter G3258/mobo combo could save money, or switching to a Micro ATX case would save space. Yeah, see, I didn't even notice that.  We'll probably go with the Cooler Master N200 instead of the N300, then. Thank you! e: I meant the case size, not planning on an overclock for this one. VVV Tuxedo Catfish fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Oct 13, 2014 |
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Oct 13, 2014 03:42
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I don't want to recommend anything but Z97 boards for overclocking, even Pentiums. The controls on H-series boards are really subpar and the price difference between an H97M Pro4 and a Z97M Pro4 is significantly less than the cost difference between a Pentium and a Core i3.
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Oct 13, 2014 03:54
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Sir Unimaginative posted:Ah. Well, R7-200 leaves a lot out. It depends on what $160 means to you and what you might be able to get for the AMD on eBay or something, but if you're limited to bus power nothing comes close to the 750 Ti and probably nothing will within its useful life. Same reason the 970 ruined the market for anything that isn't the 970 or on fire sale. Thanks for your help. I went to the store and picked one up. Unfortunately, I am an idiot and forgot to check the power supply requirements. It needs 400W, mine is 300W.  Fortunately, I didn't open any of the hardware, so I should be able to return it. But I could also go ahead and buy a better power supply. At that point, though, would I need to be concerned about overheating?
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Oct 13, 2014 04:09
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The power requirement on the box is set for a Diablotek power supply. That is an actual brand name and it is exactly as reliable and safe as it sounds. Unless you're running it with an AMD A10 or something it's fine. Edit: There is one concern, namely some 750 Ti cards need a supplemental power line like big cards do. You can technically cobble one out of 2 Molexes and a (usually included) adapter, but that's not as guaranteed as strictly bus-powered and defeats the purpose of the exercise. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Oct 13, 2014 |
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Oct 13, 2014 04:14
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Ape Has Killed Ape posted:I'm looking at building a PC for the first time, and this is the place to go for help, I guess. My fault for not putting it in the OP until this reminded me, but: Do not buy Corsair CX series power supplies. They've got build quality problems that lead to high failure rates. That note is now in the OP. Probably the best deal for a cheap PSU right now is the EVGA 500 B for ~$40 shipped after rebate. Get that instead. ADATA is on the SSD thread's "Avoid" list. You have enough room in your budget to get a better drive. If you balk at spending up for an Intel 530, at least get a Crucial MX100 instead. The MX100 is minimally acceptable, and ADATA drives are not. Consider stepping up to a ~250 GB drive (240, 256). WoW benefits greatly from being on an SSD, but a 120 GB drive would barely have room for Windows, WoW, and the rest of an average person's programs. VulgarandStupid posted:Nice, I've got a 2600k and a gtx670. Only the processor is on closed loop, an h100. But it's a bit silly since I dont over clock because I don't think any of my games demand it. I've come to the realization that I don't need more than a single 2.5" SSD and a 3.5" HDD or more than a single graphics card. I certainly haven't used an internal dvd drive in years. Mini-ITX is talked about in the OPs in multiple places, just not with particular emphasis over other options. A small price premium, parts compatibility issues, and build difficulties are reason enough not to evangelize. People are generally good about coming in and saying they want a small system or an HTPC or a console-like gaming system, etc., so people who are interested can be handled case by case.
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Oct 13, 2014 04:16
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Rush_shirt posted:Thanks for your help. I went to the store and picked one up. Unfortunately, I am an idiot and forgot to check the power supply requirements. It needs 400W, mine is 300W. Whether you need to be concerned about overheating or not depends entirely on your case and the components inside it, which you haven't told us. The general answer is that most systems can handle most components these days, but there are plenty of exceptions.
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Oct 13, 2014 04:18
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The Lord Bude posted:What's with the TC14CS? Tower style coolers tend to perform better, I'd suggest getting a TC12DX instead. Thanks for saving me from my attention span; I even went with the DS4 with the express thought "Wow, youtube videos show people fitting the TC14PE in the DS4 with analogous hardware setups, I should get that!" BurritoJustice posted:The TC14PE doesn't intrude onto the top slot on any motherboards. It is quite close though, once I used it on an mATX board with an Asus 780, and the fan clips were touching the backplate on the GPU. They were easy to bend slightly to avoid this, not that it was an issue really. Good to know, thanks.
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Oct 13, 2014 05:13
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Factory Factory posted:My fault for not putting it in the OP until this reminded me, but: Do not buy Corsair CX series power supplies. They've got build quality problems that lead to high failure rates. That note is now in the OP. I've made the changes you suggested, a little bit more than I wanted to spend, but that's ok. Thank you for not letting me buy garbage. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: ASRock H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($81.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Team Vulcan 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($68.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Intel 530 Series 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($119.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital RE4-GP 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($82.00 @ Amazon) Video Card: HIS Radeon R9 280X 3GB IceQ X² Video Card ($229.99 @ Newegg) Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($47.99 @ Mwave) Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($40.98 @ Newegg) Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24F1ST DVD/CD Writer ($14.99 @ Amazon) Total: $876.90 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-13 00:11 EDT-0400 If anyone has any suggestions on upgrades in the 10-20 dollar range, or anywhere I can cut price and stay at about the same level of performance, that would be fantastic. Otherwise, I'm going to start ordering parts next payday.
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Oct 13, 2014 05:16
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Ape Has Killed Ape posted:Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24F1ST DVD/CD Writer ($14.99 @ Amazon) Do you really need this? Because you probably don't.
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Oct 13, 2014 05:20
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Sir Unimaginative posted:The power requirement on the box is set for a Diablotek power supply. That is an actual brand name and it is exactly as reliable and safe as it sounds. Sorry, I don't understand. Are you saying I will be fine with the bus power? For the record: My machine is a Gateway DX4860 (this might help answer the question about overheating). The card I bought is this one. Thank you both for your help.
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Oct 13, 2014 05:34
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No Gravitas posted:Do you really need this? Because you probably don't. Thinking about it, probably not. There's a few old games I have on CD, but if I want to play them I guess I can just pull the optical drive out of my old PC.
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Oct 13, 2014 05:36
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Remember kids, that back in the day, you'd build an almost-$1100 computer that would have 1GB of RAM, a 250GB HDD, and a $350 AMD CPU clocked at 2.0 GHz. And by golly, you'd like it.
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Oct 13, 2014 05:38
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Ape Has Killed Ape posted:Thinking about it, probably not. There's a few old games I have on CD, but if I want to play them I guess I can just pull the optical drive out of my old PC. Which actually reminds me. Why does everyone buy a case? Do old cases break down or something? I mean, besides maybe the front ports and the fashion factor, nothing ever rots in a good case. Seems like a great source of savings.
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Oct 13, 2014 05:43
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Old cases are designed for old motherboards, and old motherboards are designed for different airflow and power dissipation patterns. Also while fluid thermodynamics has had 300 years of power station design and 90 of rocketry to help it mature, it's only in... like the past THREE that any of that's started to displace  gamer swag cases and 'it's an office they're just throwing a Pentium in there who cares' crap.Rush_shirt posted:Sorry, I don't understand. Are you saying I will be fine with the bus power? You would, and that case is fine for airflow, BUT that card requires supplemental power. You want this one. Name is very similar but the model number is different; it's slightly less grunt, but this is literally the best bus-power card available. Also it's like 60 bucks less. Don't know if you can just pull it off a local shelf and hand over dollars for it though. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Oct 13, 2014 |
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Oct 13, 2014 05:49
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Rush_shirt posted:Sorry, I don't understand. Are you saying I will be fine with the bus power? Holy crap, did you really spend $200 for a 750 Ti? That same card is $150 - $20 rebate at Newegg. E: Listen to ^^^^ on which card to get instead. I would not get any video card beyond a 750 Ti in power draw for that system. But I also wouldn't worry about cooling a 750 Ti. The case looks to have decent enough ventilation for it.
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Oct 13, 2014 05:50
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