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dj_clawson posted:WHy does he need to use a Lenovo? Isn't the point of having a custom-built desktop is that it's just a lot of different parts thrown together? Basically. See Che Delilas' earlier post. If this entire exchange has been a troll, 
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Oct 14, 2014 06:19
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Gentwise posted:It says that my gigabyte g1 gaming 970 is 312mm while the phanteks evolv has 318mm gpu clearance. Should I trust that it'll (barely) fit? Yes, it'll be fine. The Evolv is already in stock in Australia, I'd be stunned if it wasn't available in the states within the next few days.
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Oct 14, 2014 06:22
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Feed Me A Cat posted:I think you're right again, I'm zero for two here. Since jumping to conclusions got me here in the first place, is the TC12DX what I want for the DS4? If so I'll happily eat the restocking and shipping costs of getting the TC12DX though; not as much of an idiot tax on myself as the crap that happened to me last build where I didn't make sure my video card fit. Yes, the TC12DX is fine.
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Oct 14, 2014 06:22
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dj_clawson posted:Sorry if this is the wrong place for this post. Laptop thread told me to get a desktop to save money. I asked the family computer guy to build me a reasonable desktop for gaming/general use, he came up with an outrageous thing: I can see about 600-700 dollars worth of parts here, unless 'Sound High Def 7.1' means he's selling you a 1300 dollar speaker system to go with it. How do you feel about building your own PC? That's the best possible option for getting a good value PC. What is your budget?
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Oct 14, 2014 06:26
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Ape Has Killed Ape posted:So if I get this Rosewill PSU, is 450w enough wattage or should I pay the ten extra dollars for a 550w? I'd get the 550w model.
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Oct 14, 2014 06:27
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The Lord Bude posted:I can see about 600-700 dollars worth of parts here, unless 'Sound High Def 7.1' means he's selling you a 1300 dollar speaker system to go with it. How do you feel about building your own PC? That's the best possible option for getting a good value PC. What is your budget? The whole point of hiring him is that I don't know how to build my own PC and I would feel slightly better if someone did it for me. Like if he said, "700 for the parts and another $100 for the build" then I would be like "OK, great." But no, it's $2000, most of it being that Lenovo thingy. I need to replace that with something else. Suggestions?
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Oct 14, 2014 06:29
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Do the prices drop significantly enough during Black Friday/Cyber Monday to warrant waiting a month or are those days more of the "retailer clearing out older stock" thing? Edit: Is there a way to count the number of PCIe connectors a GPU has besides looking at the image and trying to make it out? PassiveSentence fucked around with this message at 07:06 on Oct 14, 2014 |
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Oct 14, 2014 06:39
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dj_clawson posted:The whole point of hiring him is that I don't know how to build my own PC and I would feel slightly better if someone did it for me. Like if he said, "700 for the parts and another $100 for the build" then I would be like "OK, great." But no, it's $2000, most of it being that Lenovo thingy. I need to replace that with something else. Suggestions? Option 1: learn to build a PC. It isn't hard, there is a link to a video in the OP and there are guides you can follow. This is the most satisfying and cost effective option. Option 2: buy a bunch of parts as above, but pay someone else to assemble it - many Computer stores do this, including Micro Center. This is the second best option. Option 3: Buy a prebuilt gaming PC from a boutique vendor like OriginPC. This is the most expensive option, but will get you something pretty close to what you'd have gotten if you'd done 1 or 2. Option 4: buy a dell or Lenovo PC and add your own graphics card. This is cheaper than 3, but will land you with a pretty low end PC for the money, in particular because you won't be able to add a graphics card beefier than a gtx750 or maybe 750ti. I would only pick this option if you're on a desperately tight budget, and absolutely refuse to do 1 or 2. If you want a parts list for the purpose of 1 or 2, give me a budget and let me know.
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Oct 14, 2014 06:43
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dj_clawson posted:The whole point of hiring him is that I don't know how to build my own PC and I would feel slightly better if someone did it for me. Like if he said, "700 for the parts and another $100 for the build" then I would be like "OK, great." But no, it's $2000, most of it being that Lenovo thingy. I need to replace that with something else. Suggestions? All the parts come with instructions. Read those. Building a PC is literally as easy as screwing some screws and putting pegs in the correct slots in the correct order. Learning how to do that will also keep you from getting screwed by people like the dude who gave you that price. Because, yes, that dude is trying to gently caress you hard. For that budget you could have a top of the line gaming machine, keyboard, monitor, mouse, and then still have some left over for a few games for it. Shima Honnou fucked around with this message at 07:04 on Oct 14, 2014 |
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Oct 14, 2014 06:58
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The Lord Bude posted:Option 1: learn to build a PC. It isn't hard, there is a link to a video in the OP and there are guides you can follow. This is the most satisfying and cost effective option. Parts list please. Budget: I don't know, under a thousand?
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Oct 14, 2014 07:27
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The Lord Bude posted:Option 1: learn to build a PC. It isn't hard, there is a link to a video in the OP and there are guides you can follow. This is the most satisfying and cost effective option. I have to echo this. I was mortified to assemble my 1000$ machine. I'm a grad student of computers, but I have never assembled anything and if I broke something I would not have the money to replace it. Still, I have obscure needs and I had to do it. It was easy, way easier than I expected. Super-easy, in fact. Read the manuals, watch a video or two and you are set. Courage! If a klutz like me can do it, so can you!
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Oct 14, 2014 08:37
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dj_clawson posted:Parts list please. Budget: I don't know, under a thousand? Here you go. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-4690 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC90LS 28.7 CFM CPU Cooler ($20.98 @ Newegg) Motherboard: ASRock H97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($88.98 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Team Vulcan 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($68.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($128.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.98 @ OutletPC) Video Card: MSI Radeon R9 280 3GB TWIN FROZR Video Card ($156.00 @ Newegg) Case: Corsair 450D ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ NCIX US) Power Supply: Rosewill Capstone 450W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Newegg) Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($13.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.98 @ OutletPC) Total: $1002.86 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-14 03:46 EDT-0400 In a few spots - my choice of case; my choice of CPU cooler, I've made choices specifically to make the assembly process as easy as possible for a first time builder - hence in particular my choice of Phanteks TC90LS over the more commonly used Coolermaster Hyper212EVO. Make sure you update the firmware on the SSD to the version that comes out on the 15th. This is done through the Samsung Magician software (you should also turn rapid mode on). I've gone with a mid tower Corsair Obsidian 450D - it's a bit larger than you need but it gives you a bit of extra room to work in, and it has a number of improvements from the design of the smaller 350D that I think are worth more than the $20 extra price. You can add wifi to this if you need wifi, just buy this as well: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/intel-wireless-network-card-7260hmwdtx1 As for Office, There is the free libreoffice; otherwise if you must have Microsoft office you have this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832416581&cm_re=microsoft_office_2013-_-32-416-581-_-Product which gives you word, excel, powerpoint and onenote for use on a single PC or you can do the annual subscription version, which also gives you outlook, access and publisher; and lets you install on up to 5 PCs and 5 devices (android/ios versions of office) If you need peripherals: I suggest a Logitech G402 mouse, and a mechanical keyboard if you can afford one, otherwise a basic microsoft keyboard will do. Do you have a monitor/headphones/speakers? Also note there is room to trim the budget here, but this is what I'd consider a good starting point for most people. The Lord Bude fucked around with this message at 08:54 on Oct 14, 2014 |
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Oct 14, 2014 08:51
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dj_clawson posted:The whole point of hiring him is that I don't know how to build my own PC and I would feel slightly better if someone did it for me. I can understand that, I was in the same spot when I built my own PC back in 2007. But me and my dad got together, read all the manuals, watched vids on youtube and assembled the machine in about 2-3 hours and it works until today. Pretty sure I forgot all of it but the point is it's not that hard and works out cheap. One of the computer shops here also offers to build the PC for you and gives you warranty on it, too, if you buy all the parts from them. Surely there's one like this over where you live?
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Oct 14, 2014 09:13
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The most important thing not to forget is how to install a CPU, or at least, to read every manual even if you think you can remember how it works from the last time you did it from a few years ago. This is why my AMD-8350 cost me $400 instead of $200 and also why I keep a sign that urges me to always read manuals posted in my office.
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Oct 14, 2014 09:55
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Shima Honnou posted:The most important thing not to forget is how to install a CPU, or at least, to read every manual even if you think you can remember how it works from the last time you did it from a few years ago. Intel CPUs are easier to install. Also I think the powers that be were punishing you for buying an AMD cpu.
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Oct 14, 2014 10:00
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And bonus, it's an ongoing punishment because I didn't destroy the second one! Just a few more days until my parts start getting here.
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Oct 14, 2014 10:21
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Are there any BYO cases that are as small as something like the Falcon NW Tiki? I would like a gaming pc to put near my TV that would be as quiet and as small as a game console.
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Oct 14, 2014 10:28
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inferis posted:Are there any BYO cases that are as small as something like the Falcon NW Tiki? I would like a gaming pc to put near my TV that would be as quiet and as small as a game console. Silverstone RVZ01.
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Oct 14, 2014 10:34
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The Lord Bude posted:Johnny guru says it's seasonic built. So it should be at least decent. Even better, thanks again. I may survive Christmas with my wallet and dignity intact 
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Oct 14, 2014 10:36
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I posted a thread in coupons about a $50 off $200 with Visa Checkout promo at checkout on Staples, and Staples will price match Amazon without counting the promo. I got a new Samsung 840 Evo 500gb for $190 shipped so it's worth checking it out. They sell GTX 750ti as well and a few other goodies.
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Oct 14, 2014 13:39
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I have: Intel Core i5-4570 3.20GHz (Haswell) MSI HD 7870 Antec High Current 620W '80 Plus ASRock B85M Intel B85 MicroATX 8gb DDR3 Can I just put in a 970 in replacement of the 7870 and be good to go? Will the motherboard be a limitation to anything?
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Oct 14, 2014 15:12
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deletebeepbeepbeep posted:I have: Yeah you'd be good with a 970. Motherboard will be fine.
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Oct 14, 2014 15:18
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I realized my PSU is about 6 years old, so I figured it's time to make a full-ish swap before it fails Current PC: AMD Phenom II X4 940 ASRock N68C-S UCC NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 Ti (idling at a balmy 77 degrees celsius, I should probably look into that) 4.00GB Dual-Channel DDR2 @ 267MHz an unreliable 4yo seagate antec tp 430w lovely case with fans that don't spin anymore looking at PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor ($69.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: ASRock Z97M Anniversary Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($94.98 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Intel 530 Series 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($139.00 @ Amazon) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card ($119.50 @ Newegg) Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($54.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Rosewill Capstone 450W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.98 @ OutletPC) Total: $698.41 Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-14 09:59 EDT-0400 Or something similar to that. I've already bought the ssd because my disk became unreliable and I'll probably migrate my video card for a while until I can find a great deal on a better one. I'm working under the assumption that any z97 motherboard will do so far as overclocking the g3258 to ~4GHz? My uses are mostly web, games and light science computing in that order.
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Oct 14, 2014 15:19
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deletebeepbeepbeep posted:I have: nope go for it.
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Oct 14, 2014 15:19
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Bucket-O-Nothing posted:I realized my PSU is about 6 years old, so I figured it's time to make a full-ish swap before it fails That's way too much to pay for that mobo. The aniversary edition boards aren't great value unless you can get a deal on them - the overclocking related stuff is fine but they cut corners on everything else. The MSI z97-PC MATE is a better choice, that should also be cheaper, and is also often available in combo deals with that CPU. It's full ATX sized though so you'd need to switch to the Coolermaster N300. Alternatively, I notice the Asrock z97m-pro4 is cheaper than the Anniversary at the moment - that's probably an even better option if it stays that way. You can get a radeon R9-280 for 150 dollars at the moment - that would be a far better graphics card option than the 750ti, which isn't quite adequate for 1080p gaming
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Oct 14, 2014 15:29
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No Gravitas posted:I have to echo this. I was mortified to assemble my 1000$ machine. I'm a grad student of computers, but I have never assembled anything and if I broke something I would not have the money to replace it. Still, I have obscure needs and I had to do it. If you can put together furniture from ikea you can build a PC.
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Oct 14, 2014 15:29
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If I do indeed get this Asus H97M-Plus motherboard, should I get faster memory than the DDR-1600?
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Oct 14, 2014 16:20
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cregets posted:If I do indeed get this Asus H97M-Plus motherboard, should I get faster memory than the DDR-1600? 1600 is as fast as H97 can run: http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/H97PRO/specifications/ By all means get 1866 or whatever if it's actually cheaper, but there's no reason to spend more money for it.
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Oct 14, 2014 16:26
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Peanut3141 posted:1600 is as fast as H97 can run: http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/H97PRO/specifications/ Thanks man, will stick with 1600. Why in the christ would they put "DDR 2600" in the title though?
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Oct 14, 2014 16:32
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No Gravitas posted:I have to echo this. I was mortified to assemble my 1000$ machine. I'm a grad student of computers, but I have never assembled anything and if I broke something I would not have the money to replace it. Still, I have obscure needs and I had to do it. I'm just gonna jump in and say that building my first PC was so stressful that it reduced me to tears. Attaching an stock CPU cooling fan for an AMD mobo is only marginally less forceful than giving birth, and involves similarly expensive components. You may want to double check what kind of fan mount your mobo has before you commit to buying a new part. It wasn't hard, mind you. Just terrifying. Also, for gently caress's sake, do not screw your mobo directly to the case. The spacer screws are there for a reason.
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Oct 14, 2014 16:39
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RiotGearEpsilon posted:
One time I left a standoff screw in the wrong spot and shorted out my new motherboard. I was 15 and it was a lot of money for another mobo.
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Oct 14, 2014 16:47
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RiotGearEpsilon posted:I'm just gonna jump in and say that building my first PC was so stressful that it reduced me to tears. Attaching an stock CPU cooling fan for an AMD mobo is only marginally less forceful than giving birth, and involves similarly expensive components. You may want to double check what kind of fan mount your mobo has before you commit to buying a new part. Yeah I was terrified with the CPU and a couple of other things. Even with the relative simplicity of the intel CPU. Things do take a little more force than feels safe. Luckily I had my brother there who is a bit of a vet at building computers. The only problem I had afterwards was that stock windows 8 simply didn't recognise my USB mouse which I'd never even considered could be a problem so I spent a few frustrating hours learning exciting new keyboard shortcuts to navigate everything and download various drivers that fixed it. The actual building with the video from the OP (not the egg one) was really simple. I got the Nanoxia DS4 so it's essentially totally silent. It's kinda weird and creepy. Oh on another note, people will tell you in this thread to get an aftermarket cooler to replace the stock intel one but my i5 4590 is again basically silent even under load and I checked with the side of my case off. Your mileage may vary but that's my anecdote. Seriously, I started it all up before hooking up my screen and closing up the case and it took me a little bit to notice it was actually on and I only knew that because fans were moving and the power button was all lit up. I wasn't convinced until I actually got into bios. It's freaky since my last experience of a desktop was around 2006 or so and man the difference is so huge these days. Much simpler to build and I can't get over the silence. I only hear platter HDD activity, basically.
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Oct 14, 2014 16:58
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r0ck0 posted:One time I left a standoff screw in the wrong spot and shorted out my new motherboard. I was 15 and it was a lot of money for another mobo. I suspect that the real reason my computer turns off at random sometimes is because of lingering damage of that brief phase when I kept trying to make my computer work with the mobo screwed to the frame.
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Oct 14, 2014 17:38
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RiotGearEpsilon posted:I'm just gonna jump in and say that building my first PC was so stressful that it reduced me to tears. Attaching an stock CPU cooling fan for an AMD mobo is only marginally less forceful than giving birth, and involves similarly expensive components. You may want to double check what kind of fan mount your mobo has before you commit to buying a new part. Yeah when you have expensive components and you're worried about stuff you can't see like circuit shorts or static its pretty nerve-wracking. Also I have a panic attack when it comes to RAM since that time when I accidentally broke a RAM slot and a stick of RAM. poo poo it was a 4 year old dusty rear end motherboard and the RAM was under warranty and there's 3 other slots I can use no problem. I didn't actually lose anything but I still panic thinking Im gonna ruin a mobo or my RAM.
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Oct 14, 2014 18:10
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I mean, you should still build your own computer. It's not that hard. Just be ready to rock back and forth in the corner crying for a few minutes.
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Oct 14, 2014 18:13
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Yeah, it's more terrifying in a primal way than difficult. In practice it's no worse than slotting Lego pieces together and really if you bought everything recently from a reputable place it's probably all under warranty and you can RMA components that don't work.
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Oct 14, 2014 18:24
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The older AMD latch mechanism was absolute poo poo, way way different than current attachment methods. Heatsinks mount with like 70 lbs. of force. The older AMD latch mechanism had you apply that force to a small latch, using the tip of a flathead screwdriver. It's hard to imagine a worse system. So many motherboards got ruined because the screwdriver slipped and gouged some traces out of the board. There is nothing so potentially destructive today, rest assured. Similar to installing a motheboard without stand-offs. These days, most motherboards (and power supplies, too) have the good sense to just not turn on when there's a short. Fix the stand-offs, and the board will be fine.
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Oct 14, 2014 18:33
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Factory Factory posted:The older AMD latch mechanism was absolute poo poo, way way different than current attachment methods. Heatsinks mount with like 70 lbs. of force. The older AMD latch mechanism had you apply that force to a small latch, using the tip of a flathead screwdriver. ugh this was the worst, i remember being so excited when i bought a T-Bird 1333 Mhz processor home and couldn't get the heatsink mounted.
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Oct 14, 2014 18:53
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I installed my first non-AMD processor and its heat sink a few months ago and I had a weird moment of not-quite-panic when everything just kind of slotted in without force. It's like "wait, is this even connected at all? Where's the ominous CTHUNK?"
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Oct 14, 2014 18:57
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I am really, really looking forward to attaching my heatsink with a screwdriver instead of CPR.
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Oct 14, 2014 19:04
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