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Slimnoid posted:I finished some oath stuff  In other news I've been painting up some Tau for an escalation league. Today was the Cadre Fireblade which was interesting because I tried a technique one of the painter locally showed me. Essentially you just paint super exaggerated highlights with the airbrush and then use a thinned out Ghost Tint in very thin layers eventually bringing the highlights down (TL;DR a glazing technique. Still got a few details left but the bulk of the work is done.  (the highlights are a little washed out due to the light)
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Oct 17, 2014 07:38
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Does anybody have any tutorials or suggestions for painting white fur? I've got an Epic Borka to paint and his polar bear mount promises to be a prick to paint.
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Oct 17, 2014 11:37
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Slimnoid posted:I finished some oath stuff Hey, at least the wood was sculpted. Anyone know the secret to painting poorly-sculpted wood? I can't even pretend to pull it off.
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Oct 17, 2014 11:46
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Under 15 posted:Hey, at least the wood was sculpted. Anyone know the secret to painting poorly-sculpted wood? I can't even pretend to pull it off. File/fill it smooth then freehand the wood grain on. Brown is pretty easy to manipulate and a good way to get comfortable with freehanding. Calico Noose posted:Does anybody have any tutorials or suggestions for painting white fur? I've got an Epic Borka to paint and his polar bear mount promises to be a prick to paint. Dheneb stone/Bleached bone with a thinned mix wash of Gryphonne Se pia+Devlan Mud and then highlighted up to white. If you want a bluish cast then use a purple/blue wash mix instead. Real polar bears are more off-white yellow. Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 12:35 on Oct 17, 2014 |
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Oct 17, 2014 12:15
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Does anyone have a good tutorial on painting headlights (bikes, tanks, etc...)? Trying to figure out how to do the lights on my Deffkopta.
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Oct 17, 2014 15:29
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CyberLord XP posted:Does anyone have a good tutorial on painting headlights (bikes, tanks, etc...)? Trying to figure out how to do the lights on my Deffkopta. Do you want your headlights "on"? Personally, i kinda like the effect of just gobbing on fullbright yellow - or you could go with a more refined method of the same http://thepaintingcorps.blogspot.ca/2010/04/friday-quick-tip-headlights.html If they're off, then they'd just be lenses, no? If you want to get really nutty you could make a scale model light housing... or a scaled-back version - drill out the light, paint the back silver, then give it a clear cover, but i'm not sure that'd work at Wh40k scale...
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Oct 17, 2014 16:27
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Oh goons I need your collective knowledge. Airbrush thinning medium for acrylics. So far I've tried out a 3:1 water to matte acrylic medium (as suggested by Adary). And various mixes of water and iso alcohol (91%). Anyone have any suggestions on good homebrew thinners? I think the airbrush post in this suggested alcohol (which makes my paint gum up into clumps) and windex. I've messed around with windex just a little but haven't had much time to play around with it. My problem is when I thin it down to what I perceive as skim milk consistency (and thin enough not to sputter), it seems to just pool up on plastics. My other question is should I go and get the .05 nozzle to maybe use a less thin paint? Right now mine is a .35 I've only had a couple hours of playing with the thing since I got it so it may just be a matter of me having not figured out the magic. I haven't tried Future...that a lot of places suggest is a good thinner...but I don't want gloss. Shachi fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Oct 17, 2014 |
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Oct 17, 2014 18:24
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I know a number of people have suggested Windex. And I have had similar problems with beading at levels people have suggested as a good amount of thinning. Maybe I have the wrong PSI or a crappy primer.
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Oct 17, 2014 18:42
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Do not thin with Windex. Windex and isopropyl are cleaners, not thinners. I try not to thin by using airbrush ready paints, but when I do have to thin I use this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GoKJUrISnTo
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Oct 17, 2014 19:02
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I could never get it right so I just use Vallejo air paints and dont give a gently caress anymore.
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Oct 17, 2014 19:11
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Will water do anything to a painted model? I was thinking of making snow globe with a model or two in it for a friend and was wondering if the paint would hold up to constant contact with water.
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Oct 17, 2014 19:12
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StErN posted:Will water do anything to a painted model? If you hit it with enough layers of varnish you might be fine. Gloss is pretty protective, and can protect against alcohol and mineral spirits, so it might hold up for a snow globe. I'd test it out first before committing, such as sticking a model in a cup of water for a week or two.
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Oct 17, 2014 19:14
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StErN posted:Will water do anything to a painted model? Automotive acrylic gloss is meant to hold up to the elements - varnish with that? I would make sure that the model is completely sealed and the paint is fully cured (not just dried) before you immerse it - give it at least a week. Also - superglue breaks down under water - use a waterproof glue to attach your mini to the base.
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Oct 17, 2014 19:25
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StErN posted:Will water do anything to a painted model? I did the same thing and two years later it's fine, the only advice I have is not use a the citadel ardcoat, it made my mini's black hair look grey underwater.
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Oct 17, 2014 19:42
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Shachi posted:Oh goons I need your collective knowledge. Airbrush thinning medium for acrylics. Go to Michael's with a 40% off coupon, buy airbrush medium. I don't know why everyone insists on crazy mixes. Thinning is probably one of the most difficult learning curves to airbrushing. It's gonna take awhile, and it's going to be frustrating at times. Thinner paints are more difficult to control. They require a lighter touch, which also comes with practice. Move your brush quick with anything miniature painting related multiple thin coats are better than 1 or 2 thick coats even when airbrushing.
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Oct 17, 2014 20:03
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Anyone know enough about spraypaint to tell me how to get the propellant out of it? I am using Montana Gold and they say you can spray it in a cup and use it with a brush. I'm trying to use it in a marker. When I tried, the paint was apparently still pressurized in the marker even though I'd sprayed it out into the marker. I don't know about this poo poo so stupid me I guess. Anyways I want to have a paint marker with exactly the same color as this spraypaint. Should I just spray in a cup and then agitate it with a miniature paint mixer or something? Would that even work? Here's hoping I get a reply to this question because it's probably obscure as heck
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Oct 17, 2014 20:18
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:Go to Michael's with a 40% off coupon, buy airbrush medium. I don't know why everyone insists on crazy mixes. People use mixes because A) airbrush medium is expensive if you use a lot of it and having yet another proprietary liquid in my paint case is not necessary, and B) I already had all the stuff in that video because its also what I (and Les Bursely) use to make washes anyway. So it was just a different ratio.
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Oct 17, 2014 20:21
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JoshTheStampede posted:People use mixes because A) airbrush medium is expensive if you use a lot of it and having yet another proprietary liquid in my paint case is not necessary, and B) I already had all the stuff in that video because its also what I (and Les Bursely) use to make washes anyway. So it was just a different ratio. How do you stop the home brew airbrush medium from separating, it is terrible for that I find.
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Oct 17, 2014 20:37
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Indolent Bastard posted:How do you stop the home brew airbrush medium from separating, it is terrible for that I find. You don't. You just have to shake it before use.
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Oct 17, 2014 20:45
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A big 8 oz bottle of liquitex airbrush medium is like $8 with a coupon. Use what you're comfortable with, but especially for new people a purpose built thinner is one less thing to fight with.  Also, in this case the guy is using a .35 needle, so it doesn't matter, but les's mix isn't very user friendly with smaller needles/nozzles.
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Oct 17, 2014 20:54
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JoshTheStampede posted:You don't. You just have to shake it before use. Then it gets all foamy... The struggle continues.
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Oct 17, 2014 20:57
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Gareth Gobulcoque posted:A big 8 oz bottle of liquitex airbrush medium is like $8 with a coupon. This would be great if I could actually find the stuff. I went to Michaels today and they were out of flow aid and I didn't see airbrush medium anywhere. Do they hide it somewhere weird? Hobby lobby has a nice airbrush section but they don't seem to carry anything like that either. They don't even carry flow aid.
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Oct 17, 2014 22:25
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Shachi posted:This would be great if I could actually find the stuff. I went to Michaels today and they were out of flow aid and I didn't see airbrush medium anywhere. Do they hide it somewhere weird? Yeah, I dont think Michaels carries it. They carry airbrush cleaner, and a ton of Liquitex stuff, but I dont think the airbrush medium is among them.
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Oct 17, 2014 22:28
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Well that sucks then. Mine definitely does because that's where I got mine. Michael's stock varies wildly by location. The closest one to me has a virtually non existent sculpting section, but the one past that has a whole aisle and nicer art supplies in general despite being half the size.
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Oct 17, 2014 23:14
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Is there some alternative to flow aid? As I understand it, it just reduces surface tension. Drop of dish soap maybe.
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Oct 17, 2014 23:24
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Shachi posted:Is there some alternative to flow aid? As I understand it, it just reduces surface tension. Drop of dish soap maybe. Yeah, back in the old days people used dish soap. Future will also work in a pinch, and a couple drops of Future in your water won't make it too glossy.
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Oct 17, 2014 23:31
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Finished my Reapers of Alahan. Again, excellent Rackham figures that were a joy to paint.
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Oct 17, 2014 23:54
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I am an animal and use windex for thinning and cleaning. I like a lot better than water. Flow aid works too, but it costs more and works about the same for me.
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Oct 18, 2014 00:54
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any chemical reason I shouldn't add jet dry to my washes or airbrush fluid?
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Oct 18, 2014 00:55
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Vallejo do airbrush thinner and airbrush cleaner products. I've found the thinner works nicely with their VGC lines (though I probably not so cost-effective if you are going to be going through buckets of it). I've not yet tried their Game Air line. Their primers and the Model Air line work perfectly fine straight from the bottle in my 0.3 brush.
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Oct 18, 2014 01:20
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CyberLord XP posted:Does anyone have a good tutorial on painting headlights (bikes, tanks, etc...)? Trying to figure out how to do the lights on my Deffkopta. I've got this one! You want to use a chrome NMM technique. It's a lot easier than it looks, just gradient (from the top): Dark blue->light blue->white , then HARD BROWN LINE->light brown-> tan It works amazing on headlights, this is probably one of the figures I'm most proud of: 
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Oct 18, 2014 01:23
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Ooh, I already did one with the light turned on, but I'm going to do a few with them off like that and see how they look. That truck is real nice!
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Oct 18, 2014 01:43
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JoshTheStampede posted:People use mixes because A) airbrush medium is expensive if you use a lot of it and having yet another proprietary liquid in my paint case is not necessary, and B) I already had all the stuff in that video because its also what I (and Les Bursely) use to make washes anyway. So it was just a different ratio. Oh look a thing I can answer. Your best bet is to google how to decant spray pant. The long and short of it is to make a thick straw to shoot it through and catch it in a cup. You MUST let it sit for a while slightly covered. The problem that youre having is because there is still propellant disolved in the paint. Letting it sit after decanting lets it bubble it's way out (similar to how a carbonated beverage goes flat when left in the open) EDIT: Would it be worth it for me to get the .5mm needle and nozzle in terms of ease? It has a .35 on it as it is right now. Shachi fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Oct 18, 2014 |
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Oct 18, 2014 02:37
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I'm enjoying this model so much more than Mortarion. At the rate im going this guy will be done today.
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Oct 18, 2014 14:12
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Why didn't you like Mortarion? I still have yet to paint mine, but he's at the end of a huge backlog.
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Oct 18, 2014 14:19
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REAL MUSCLE MILK posted:Why didn't you like Mortarion? I still have yet to paint mine, but he's at the end of a huge backlog. Same issues I had with Lorgar. Rather bland pose, and despite the model being absolutely packed with detail its just a little boring to paint. Simon Egans Primarchs are just better in every way. I think he 'gets it' more than Edgar.
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Oct 18, 2014 14:31
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I definitely agree it seems a little rigid (which makes sense from Mortarion, but it still doesn't make it less boring to look at). I can't attest to the level of detail because it's still sitting in a bag, but I honestly think Typhon (I just noticed he has the same loving name as the tank) is a better model in every regard. I don't recall perfectly but I think Mortarion is newer than Typhon and it feels like a step backwards.
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Oct 18, 2014 14:46
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Warp Talon conversion I'm working on for my kill team, as the stock mini seems a bit silly to me:  Basically a leg reposition and addtion of an extra set of lower legs to get the chicken walker type legs, in an attempt to make him more daemonic and scary. Same idea behind the blank face mask.
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Oct 18, 2014 16:04
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The problem with Mortarion is that stupid Scythe. It's just not something that can realistically be used as a weapon.
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Oct 18, 2014 17:33
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HardCoil posted:Warp Talon conversion I'm working on for my kill team, as the stock mini seems a bit silly to me: The legs look great but kinda derpy from the back. It needs not to be a solid shoulder-plate-shaped armour panel where the sculpted brown joint is. Should be segmented or that concertina stuff int he back of the knees. E: and the blank mask looks pretty good, but it doesn;t go with the rest of the mini which is all spikes and teeth and organicness. The blank mask doesn't match.
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Oct 18, 2014 17:34
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