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Rhyno posted:Just bouncing around ideas. Get ready to bounce off guardrails...
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Oct 17, 2014 20:07
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Living in Denver, I'm tempted to buy a beater samurai or something. Or I just won't drive this winter.
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Oct 17, 2014 20:17
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leica posted:You have a beater Civic, buy snow tires for that and drive that for a winter beater. Man up, I drive my S2000 in the snow
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Oct 18, 2014 01:33
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Nodoze posted:Man up, I drive my S2000 in the snow Man up? We drive Miatas dude. I'd drive my Miata in the snow if I lived where it snowed. However, If I had more than one car the Miata (or any convertible) stays in the garage until winter is over, that's usually how most people do it.
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Oct 18, 2014 01:48
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I used to drive my MR2 in the snow and that's even less of a winter car than a Miata, just use proper winter tires and go do some donuts in an empty
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Oct 18, 2014 02:54
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leica posted:Man up? We drive Miatas dude. If I had to choose one to keep, the Miata wins every day. Driving has never been so much fun.
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Oct 18, 2014 03:05
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Rhyno posted:The stock NC wheels are 17, it's not too much of a difference really. And the car already looks like it has a monster truck suspension. The base five-speed cars have 16s.
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Oct 18, 2014 06:44
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Driving on summer tires (no matter what car or skill level) is dumb as heck, I learned last winter. Nearly ended up in someone's back yard because I was afraid to tell the boss off and didn't have winter (or all seasons for that matter) tires. If the 18s don't rub and have winter tires, I'd go for that. The extra weight can only help in the snow. But as someone else said, if you have another car, you'd be foolish to use the MX5.
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Oct 18, 2014 06:53
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A MIRACLE posted:Living in Denver, I'm tempted to buy a beater samurai or something. Or I just won't drive this winter. 1st gen Sportages are basically the same thing as, but way cheaper than Suzukis, and early Kias are all Mazda parts-bin mashups so if you like Miatas it's basically the same poo poo but ladder-frame and 4x4. And when the Kia electrical bullshit drives you insane you can pull the FE3N, throw it in a rusty NA and boost it to hell and back.
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Oct 18, 2014 07:05
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PeterWeller posted:The base five-speed cars have 16s. Neat. My GT had the 17" alloys.
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Oct 18, 2014 07:41
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GOD IS BED posted:Driving on summer tires (no matter what car or skill level) is dumb as heck, I learned last winter. Nearly ended up in someone's back yard because I was afraid to tell the boss off and didn't have winter (or all seasons for that matter) tires. If the 18s don't rub and have winter tires, I'd go for that. The extra weight can only help in the snow. No seasons aren't even that much better. As a winter expert from NC, whenever there's imminent threat of snow, it's better to panic buy milk and bread and just stay home. 
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Oct 18, 2014 14:37
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Tommychu posted:1st gen Sportages are basically the same thing as, but way cheaper than Suzukis, and early Kias are all Mazda parts-bin mashups so if you like Miatas it's basically the same poo poo but ladder-frame and 4x4. The problem with the older Kias is the only (Korean built) Mazda bits are the engine and drivetrain, everything else is Kia specific dogshit, suspension and brake parts are expensive and not worth putting into a shitpile of a car that the interior is rotting out of. Worst quality interior of any car I've ever owned, and it's not like you can fix that.
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Oct 18, 2014 16:32
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Rhyno posted:Neat. My GT had the 17" alloys. Yeah, just about all of them came on 17s. I had the next step up from the base model, and the only differences were the six-speed, 17s and available sports package.
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Oct 18, 2014 17:55
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PeterWeller posted:Yeah, just about all of them came on 17s. I had the next step up from the base model, and the only differences were the six-speed, 17s and available sports package. I also have the appearance package which adds that neat lower lip. I didn't even realize it was different at first and now all NC1s without it loom naked to me.
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Oct 18, 2014 17:59
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New owner checking in: The good: Less than 100k miles No rust, everything is straight Less than 3000 dollars! The bad: Previous owner syndrome.. someone has painted the dash red for some reason, done other dumb things Shortnose crank has an oil leak Lazy headlight, might be a wiring issue.. Various trims missing. No heat from the heater, suspect core IMO The only thing I can really say is why didnt I buy one years ago! Also, has anyone got a good link to general NA maintainence/issues? Had a quick browse of miata.net but I'm sure theres something better out there..
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Oct 19, 2014 01:50
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You can search the Miata.net forums for anything and/or check the garage section, just don't post there or you'll end up in the thread title like Phone. Other than that you can ask us anything.
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Oct 19, 2014 02:06
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Parabellum posted:
Except those headlight covers holy poo poo  You should be able to bend them back into alignment no problem. I have to consciously keep myself from leaning on them when I'm invariably under the hood for some reason or other.Parabellum posted:
Check all your coolant hoses and verify that you're getting coolant circulation. I had the block<->heater hose separate on me and my heat suffered tremendously until I finally tracked it down and replaced it. If you don't have any good records about the coolant system http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=4532&parentid=0&stocknumber=04-00050%20%201990-93. Parabellum posted:The only thing I can really say is why didnt I buy one years ago! One of us, one of us 
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Oct 19, 2014 02:22
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Local guy is selling this '94 5.0 swapped Miata and a parts car for $3500 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDpfHx0Kt44 God dammit I wish I had some spare cash.
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Oct 19, 2014 02:33
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leica posted:Local guy is selling this '94 5.0 swapped Miata and a parts car for $3500 Friend of mine linked me that last week. The same friend also sold me my current Miata. For $3500. Hnnnnnnnnggggggggggggggggggggggg
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Oct 19, 2014 02:35
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GOD IS BED posted:If the 18s don't rub and have winter tires, I'd go for that. The extra weight can only help in the snow. This really depends on the conditions. For most winter conditions a narrow, taller tire on a smaller wheel is preferred. The narrow track cuts through snow to the tarmac and helps to stop the tires from spinning on top of the snow, which makes your rear end behave like a hovercraft. It also means less work "plowing" through deep standing snow, and the taller profile is a bit more comfortable when you're going over humps of ice and slush. That said winter rubber is almost always preferred to almost any all-season or summer tire. Even the most expensive all-seasons, using magical compounds made from unicorn bones, are still not quite as good as a dedicated winter tire. I have a co-worker that bought an NC this summer and this will be his first winter driving it. I'm excited for him to learn the terror/fun of RWD sports car winter driving.
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Oct 19, 2014 07:26
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<<User.Parabellum posted:New owner checking in: Welcome to the crack house. Others are like, "Hi, my name is Dave. The meetings are on Tuesdays at 7 pm in room 114." I usually just zoom by, honk and wave. BEEP BEEP! " https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDpfHx0Kt44 " Meth. Hard smoky crystal. Otteration fucked around with this message at 07:46 on Oct 19, 2014 |
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Oct 19, 2014 07:34
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Just got the papers through on mine the other day. This is what $800 will get you in Japan.  From the paperwork it looks like it was somebody's weekend car for years, in the last 4 years that it was in usage it was doing about 5000km a year then it was just sitting in the previous owner's driveway for the past year doing nothing. It's a V Special so it's got a tan interior with a wood steering wheel. Unfortunately it's not here yet, currently trying to arrange getting it sent.
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Oct 19, 2014 08:25
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That steering wheel is the business. What's shipping going to run you (I assume to Australia)? Because drat that looks nice. Question for the thread: I'll be putting on braided stainless steel brake lines today, hopefully. Haven't messed with car brakes before, at all, but have replaced the front line on my motorcycle with braided stainless. Any hints, tips, or comments for a newbie? This needs doing, the brakes have that "pump up to work" feel that my civic's had right before they burst in traffic. Edit for context: 1995 NA 1.8L. TheNothingNew fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Oct 19, 2014 |
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Oct 19, 2014 17:50
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TheNothingNew posted:That steering wheel is the business. What's shipping going to run you (I assume to Australia)? Because drat that looks nice.  ) it turned out cheaper to ship it down. $500 door to door, for what it's worth.
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Oct 19, 2014 18:33
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leica posted:The problem with the older Kias is the only (Korean built) Mazda bits are the engine and drivetrain, everything else is Kia specific dogshit, suspension and brake parts are expensive and not worth putting into a shitpile of a car that the interior is rotting out of. Worst quality interior of any car I've ever owned, and it's not like you can fix that. Actually the entire chassis is a Mazda knockoff, but it's based on the Bongo (Delica-style van). The body is also basically a stretched-out and restyled Festiva/121. Yeah all the interior plastic is roughly a grade lower than happy meal toys and as I said the electrics (especially the coil pack harness, power locks, windows and the stupid factory alarm) are pretty bad, but I replaced all the suspension and brakes when I lifted mine and it wasn't that expensive at all. The drums are a bit pricey because of that stupid bolt-on drum/hub thing but I just had them turned. It's a stout platform that can be had for stupid cheap (a good example with moderate mileage can be easily had for well under a grand), and if you're looking for a 4x4 winter beater that you don't have to give a gently caress about it's hard to beat- especially when the Suzuki equivalent generally goes for around $4-5k in similar shape.
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Oct 19, 2014 18:53
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TheNothingNew posted:Question for the thread: I'll be putting on braided stainless steel brake lines today, hopefully. Haven't messed with car brakes before, at all, but have replaced the front line on my motorcycle with braided stainless. Any hints, tips, or comments for a newbie? Based on my experience swapping out the lines on my Miata, PB Blaster. Lots of PB Blaster. ALL THE PB BLASTER. Let it soak, spray more on, let that soak, then find the tightest fitting line wrench you can. Also the metal springtabs that hold the old line fittings on are easily removed with a pair of vice grips. Aside from stubborn crusty old line fittings, it's fairly straightforwards and easy.
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Oct 19, 2014 20:50
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Tommychu posted:Actually the entire chassis is a Mazda knockoff, but it's based on the Bongo (Delica-style van). The body is also basically a stretched-out and restyled Festiva/121. Yeah all the interior plastic is roughly a grade lower than happy meal toys and as I said the electrics (especially the coil pack harness, power locks, windows and the stupid factory alarm) are pretty bad, but I replaced all the suspension and brakes when I lifted mine and it wasn't that expensive at all. The drums are a bit pricey because of that stupid bolt-on drum/hub thing but I just had them turned. My experience is with a BP Sephia which was based on the BG chassis, and should have been great, but unfortunately all the wear parts of the suspension and brakes were Kia specific and twice the price of a comparable BG Mazda Protégé. Since the interior was disintegrating I decided just to sell it rather than put any more money or effort into it before it turned to dust.
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Oct 19, 2014 23:13
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A MIRACLE posted:Living in Denver, I'm tempted to buy a beater samurai or something. Or I just won't drive this winter.
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Oct 20, 2014 01:31
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Ah, didn't realize your impression came from a Sephia. Thing is there really wasn't much consistency between pre-Hyundai Kias, they ranged in scope from direct copies (like the Pride/Festiva- not a great example but the only example we saw here) all the way up to full-scale re-engineering of platforms (Like the Sedona, a 626 trying to be a Windstar but powered by a loving Rover V6). Invariably the further they strayed from the original Mazda design the worse the cars got though, and they hosed around with the Sephia/Spectra quite a bit.
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Oct 20, 2014 01:36
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IronCastKnight posted:Based on my experience swapping out the lines on my Miata, PB Blaster. Lots of PB Blaster. ALL THE PB BLASTER. Let it soak, spray more on, let that soak, then find the tightest fitting line wrench you can. Also the metal springtabs that hold the old line fittings on are easily removed with a pair of vice grips. Aside from stubborn crusty old line fittings, it's fairly straightforwards and easy. Baller, thank you. Wife has a headache, which means nothing gets done today, so I'll do it next weekend. PB Blaster I have on hand, but glad you posted because I was going to try to swing this without buying a flared end wrench. I'll buy one this week.
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Oct 20, 2014 03:34
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Tommychu posted:Ah, didn't realize your impression came from a Sephia. Thing is there really wasn't much consistency between pre-Hyundai Kias, they ranged in scope from direct copies (like the Pride/Festiva- not a great example but the only example we saw here) all the way up to full-scale re-engineering of platforms (Like the Sedona, a 626 trying to be a Windstar but powered by a loving Rover V6). Invariably the further they strayed from the original Mazda design the worse the cars got though, and they hosed around with the Sephia/Spectra quite a bit. It was actually a great running little car, but it needed too much and I decided rather than putting money into a lovely econobox with a BP I'd just get a Miata with a BP because Miatas are almost always worth putting money and work into.
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Oct 20, 2014 04:03
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leica posted:It was actually a great running little car, but it needed too much and I decided rather than putting money into a lovely econobox with a BP I'd just get a Miata with a BP because Miatas are almost always worth putting money and work into. That almost exactly describes how I felt about my BP-swapped Festiva, but instead of getting a Miata I jumped into the Korean rabbit hole with both feet.
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Oct 20, 2014 04:22
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TheNothingNew posted:Baller, thank you. Wife has a headache, which means nothing gets done today, so I'll do it next weekend. PB Blaster I have on hand, but glad you posted because I was going to try to swing this without buying a flared end wrench. I'll buy one this week. Yeah, trying to undo brake lines without a line wrench is a recipe for heartache, disaster, and having to replace your lines because you completely rounded off the nut. That's also why I suggested spraying an ocean of PB Blaster over everything then letting it soak, because I just sprayed on a bit then had at it and damned near stripped a few of them.
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Oct 21, 2014 00:11
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Finally got around to tearing apart the motor from the Miata I wrecked some time ago by diving like an idiot in the middle of a storm. Looks like it just had some stuck oil control rings, everything else looks pretty mint for a ~160k mile engine. Looks like someone even did the water pump and timing belt not too long before I ruined the drat thing. I got some old Lufkin inside bore mics of ebay for a pittance and am eagerly awaiting them to check out the cylinders, as the pistons look good enough to reuse. Very minimal scuffing on the sides, ring lands are golden, pin bores look to be not the best, but mic out pretty round and straight. Or at least as good as I can manage to use a telescoping gauge. I'm spending a bit and dropping in some forged rods, billet oil pump, super damper, and a Flyin Miata clutch package. Some day when I am willing to drop some more cash, I might even turbo the thing. I will be investing in some track classes before that, however, to prevent a repeat of my previous experience rolling over a hill.
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Oct 21, 2014 20:45
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Just ordered a Yonaka stainless cat back off of Amazon for $250 shipped. A couple people on mnet raved about the fit and quality for the price so I grabbed one. Only thing is there's no bung for the after cat o2 sensor but I already took out the CEL light so that won't be an issue  I'm just wondering if I should go ahead and snip out the o2 sensor or just zip tie it up out of the way, but I doubt I'll ever get the CEL working right anyway so gently caress it.
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Oct 22, 2014 02:14
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Zip tying the sensor to the PPF frame is good enough to prevent the code from popping.
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Oct 22, 2014 02:39
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I was going to throw the NA up on jackstands this weekend and try to hunt down a consistent suspension noise when going over bumps. Any tips on the process and what should be on my checklist to eliminate? (I can only describe it as a squeaky chatter over any kind of road imperfection, even as small as a cats-eye, seemingly on the drivers side-rear) I'm hoping its something little like a sway bar end link or a brake component, not something like a control arm bushing or shock top hat 
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Oct 23, 2014 04:23
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Do you have any synthetic/non-rubber bushings installed? I put a set of polyurethane swaybar bushings on my Focus when I did a suspension kit that included a 2mm thicker RSB and they squeaked kind of like what you're describing until I shot them with some penetrating lubricant.
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Oct 23, 2014 04:55
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Nope original 1997 bushings. It defiantly sounds more like a rattle than a squeak. Like a chirping rattle.
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Oct 23, 2014 20:21
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I have a 1997 as well with a similar squeak/chirp on my rear driver's side (although I'm not sure if I would call it a rattle) and it is indeed a sway bar end link. It goes away if I spray some silicone lube on it but comes back after a while. On bad days it'll chirp constantly over tiny road imperfections, as you said. My work's parking lot has a bird that will start chirping when it hears it. Sorry birdbro, it's not a lady bird, just my noisy car.
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Oct 23, 2014 20:33
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