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Factory Factory posted:First, try just the new RAM. If it's DOA, then nothing else you could do matters. Just get an RMA and replace it.
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Oct 29, 2014 03:37
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Max Wilco posted:I apologize for not following up on this sooner. Both Amazon and NewEgg say that the EVGA 750ti does not require a PCI-E power cable. It also says it works with a 300w power supply, which my computer has. However, I don't know if there are any other requirements for the card. I included a link to the specifications of my computer, in case there's something I'm missing. It should be fine then. I only mentioned it because some 750ti variants don't need extra power but others with beefier cooling and more overclocking headroom do. Worst case scenario you get it and find you need a power supply. It's not a big deal.
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Oct 29, 2014 03:44
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Okay, despite some hilarious (not really) shenanigans involving a particularly sticky motherboard standoff + screw, I managed to get my new motherboard installed without killing myself! Thank Christ. Problem is that my Asus Maximus Hero VII doesn't like it when I use two sticks of RAM. Both work fine on their own, but every time I try and put both sticks in it throws an error, saying that there's some problem with the RAM. Any advice on this?
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Oct 29, 2014 03:56
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The Iron Rose posted:Okay, despite some hilarious (not really) shenanigans involving a particularly sticky motherboard standoff + screw, I managed to get my new motherboard installed without killing myself! Thank Christ. When you plug in each stick individually do you plug them into the same slot? Maybe when you plug them in both the second slot is bad. Try plugging them in to the "secondary" slots. Also try plugging one of them in to the second slot you use for when you plug both in. The shenanigans might have messed up one of the slots.
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Oct 29, 2014 04:02
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The Iron Rose posted:My Asus Maximus Hero VII doesn't like it when I use two sticks of RAM. Both work fine on their own, but every time I try and put both sticks in it throws an error, saying that there's some problem with the RAM. Any advice on this? Are you using two adjacent slots, or a pair of slots the same color? Your motherboard manual will say what order the RAM slots should be filled in, and you should usually be using two slots of the same color. Also, does the error message actually say that there is a memory error or is it just the "Memory size has changed" message that you will usually get when adding or removing RAM? If it'll still let you boot with both sticks installed, you could try running Memtest off a flash drive and see if that reports any errors. Grapeshot fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Oct 29, 2014 |
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Oct 29, 2014 04:04
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Grapeshot posted:Are you using two adjacent slots, or a pair of slots the same color? Your motherboard manual will say what order the RAM slots should be filled in, and you should usually be using two slots of the same color. I tried that. The shenanigans are irrelevant, it was just a motherboard screw that got stuck in a standoff. The motherboard manual told me to plug the sticks into A2 and B2. I tried that, nada. Both sticks are working now, but they're in A1 and A2 - that is to say, the slots are two different colours and are right next to one another. When I try the memory in different slots, I get an LED error code off the motherboard - it won't let me boot.
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Oct 29, 2014 04:09
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Worth going from a 560Ti to a 760 to tide me over until I put together a new computer eventually? Have a lovely EVGA 560ti that's loud as gently caress I'm planning on keeping the computer in question around
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Oct 29, 2014 04:23
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WhiskeyJuvenile posted:Worth going from a 560Ti to a 760 to tide me over until I put together a new computer eventually? Have a lovely EVGA 560ti that's loud as gently caress Are you willing to blow out the dust, and if that's not enough redo the thermal paste on that 560 Ti? 760 is long in the tooth and if you can hold out, there's the 960 or equivalent launching sometime in the next couple months. Yes, a 760 Ti is a solid upgrade over a 560 Ti if that's what you're asking, there are just better things coming soon and when 970 pricing drops a bit, they will be an incredible value.
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Oct 29, 2014 04:33
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Alright guys, I put my new system together tonight and it powers on, fans all spin and so forth (except chassis fan 2, don't know if that's relevant) but I get no video from either the onboard or my video card. I mean when I power on, my TV stops displaying No Signal and just has a black screen. Pentium G3258 ASRock Z97M-Pro4 2x2 GB RAM, tested together and individually in multiple slots already, no change Radeon 6570 carried over, known good HDMI cable to TV, known good. The 4-pin ATX 12V reads 12.29V on my multimeter when powered on, so the PSU should be fine. I've checked that the 24-pin and 4-pin are both connected. What else should I be looking at? Re-seat the CPU? There is no speaker and no LED trouble light that I can see for a code.
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Oct 29, 2014 04:40
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EX-GAIJIN AT LAST posted:Alright guys, I put my new system together tonight and it powers on, fans all spin and so forth (except chassis fan 2, don't know if that's relevant) but I get no video from either the onboard or my video card. I mean when I power on, my TV stops displaying No Signal and just has a black screen. Take out the video card and see if it works with just onboard video first. If so, next step is to figure out why it doesn't like the video card. Look for BIOS updates, weird bios settings, check if it is set to turn off onboard video when a pci-e card is present, etc. When it looks like the machine is behaving normally try the video card again. There may be other issues before you get there however.
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Oct 29, 2014 04:57
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The Lord Bude posted:Those guides aren't particularly good - that one on brief perusal makes a number of really bad recommendations. Guides like those tend to be highly compromised by sponsorship deals. People should be reading our OP, and the suggested builds there as a starting point, not sites like that. Oh definitely take it with a grain of salt with respect to sponsor pressure; I linked it mostly because it's a newer version of the one located in the OP. For anyone out there looking to make a PC going with the OP recommendations as a baseline is going to probably produce better results than a TR sample build baseline would, particularly by sheer volume of quality informed input that goes into the OP recommendations from the discussions in these threads over time. Mo_Steel fucked around with this message at 05:07 on Oct 29, 2014 |
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Oct 29, 2014 05:02
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The Iron Rose posted:I tried that. The shenanigans are irrelevant, it was just a motherboard screw that got stuck in a standoff. The motherboard manual told me to plug the sticks into A2 and B2. I tried that, nada. Both sticks are working now, but they're in A1 and A2 - that is to say, the slots are two different colours and are right next to one another. When I try the memory in different slots, I get an LED error code off the motherboard - it won't let me boot. Can you look up the code in your manual? http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1150/MAXIMUS-VII-HERO/e9799_maximus_vii_hero_cover_v2_for_web_only.zip is the online version (it's zipped for some reason but I got good transfer rates). The relevant pages seem to be their MemOK! thing on page 1-28 and the Q-Codes on 1-34 through 1-38.
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Oct 29, 2014 05:08
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Rexxed posted:Can you look up the code in your manual? Q55. All it says is that there's a problem with the memory.
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Oct 29, 2014 05:14
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The Iron Rose posted:Q55. All it says is that there's a problem with the memory. A quick google search shows others getting this code when there are bent CPU pins.
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Oct 29, 2014 05:17
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The Iron Rose posted:Q55. All it says is that there's a problem with the memory. So basically it acts normally when you're not using dual channel and it doesn't boot at all and gives a memory not installed error code when you try to use dual channel. That's definitely strange and I don't really have a good answer for you. It shouldn't matter at all, but is your RAM on their qualified vendor list (in the manual I linked it's pg 1-12 to 1-23)? My next step would probably be to either a) try it with other ram if I had some available and/or b) run it with the single channel setup it boots with but run the heck out of a memtest86+ boot disk to make sure it was stable like that, because it sounds really crazy. There's the off-chance that your RAM got hit by static while installing it or it's just a bad board or something annoying like that. Either of those things should show up in memtest.
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Oct 29, 2014 05:28
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Ether Frenzy posted:New sticks work fine in place of the originals so they seem to be okay.. checked my DRAM voltage, which is set to 'AUTO', and my options if I set manually in that range are 1.500 or 1.560, no option to increment to 1.525V. Shall I try 1.560 or will that melt everything? Eugh. 1.56V shouldn't hurt anything, but yeesh, that's a huge voltage increase for what we're trying to accomplish here. Literally just those two options? Mo_Steel posted:Oh definitely take it with a grain of salt with respect to sponsor pressure; I linked it mostly because it's a newer version of the one located in the OP. For anyone out there looking to make a PC going with the OP recommendations as a baseline is going to probably produce better results than a TR sample build baseline would, particularly by sheer volume of quality informed input that goes into the OP recommendations from the discussions in these threads over time. Fun fact: Tech Report maintains a "current system guide" permalink that redirects to their newest one, and that's what I linked to. This doesn't mean that they've updated it yet, though.  I'll give them a couple more days.
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Oct 29, 2014 05:37
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Mo_Steel posted:Oh definitely take it with a grain of salt with respect to sponsor pressure... I really want to correct this notion about sponsors having some kind of direct input on the contents of the TR system guide, because it keeps coming up, and it is wrong. The reality is that advertisers do not have any say on the products that end up in the guide. We do try to limit recommendations to hardware that we've had hands-on experience with. There is an inherent bias in that, to be sure. I just want to be clear that we're by no means obligated to include a product in a guide or give it an award simply because somebody sent us a review sample and/or advertises with us. That would be a huge ethical quandary, not to mention a terrible disservice to readers of the site. Think about it. If we recommended a crap product because an advertiser said "jump," people would notice, we would lose credibility, readership/trust would decline, and the advertiser would lose eyeballs. Nobody wins. None of this is to say that any one site's system guide(s) should be a canonical reference. It's great that people can get alternate opinions and broader exposure to more components here, and in similar threads elsewhere. Sorry for the derail, but accusations of ethical violations like this are too serious to leave unaddressed. Factory Factory, thanks for the in-depth look at the CX430 and its issues.
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Oct 29, 2014 07:26
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TheJeffers posted:I really want to correct this notion about sponsors having some kind of direct input on the contents of the TR system guide, because it keeps coming up, and it is wrong. Sounds legit!
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Oct 29, 2014 08:17
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Factory Factory posted:Eugh. 1.56V shouldn't hurt anything, but yeesh, that's a huge voltage increase for what we're trying to accomplish here. Literally just those two options? Yeah, those are the only two in that range - there's like 12 other options both up and down the line, but nothing more refined in the spot we need there. I can try it at 1.56 - is that going to noticeably increase the power consumption? I might be better off sending the new RAM back, getting two 4 gig sticks for another $30 and just taking out the original stuff.
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Oct 29, 2014 08:58
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The case I'm working with has a heat sink clearance of 80mm and I'm looking at the Silverstone NT-06 Pro which has a clearance of 82mm. That's way too close for it fit I assume? From what it looks like the heatsink is supposed to push the hot air into the power supply to exhaust so it needs to be pretty drat close to it. That extra 2mm isn't going to work for this particular case. Case is a Lian-Li PC-TU200B if that helps.
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Oct 29, 2014 11:10
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Rexxed posted:Take out the video card and see if it works with just onboard video first. If so, next step is to figure out why it doesn't like the video card. Look for BIOS updates, weird bios settings, check if it is set to turn off onboard video when a pci-e card is present, etc. I actually tried it first without the video card because getting the 4-pin connector was going to be pulled really tight with it in, and I didn't want to risk the wires in it so I was just planning on using the onboard while I ordered an extension or molex adapter. Then when that didn't work I put in the video card to test that. As an aside, I do have a molex to PCI-E adapter, but I can't use that for ATX 12V, can I? It fits in the slot but it only has 3 wires instead of 4. If I can avoid ordering a cable I'd prefer using something on hand.
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Oct 29, 2014 13:10
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EX-GAIJIN AT LAST posted:I actually tried it first without the video card because getting the 4-pin connector was going to be pulled really tight with it in, and I didn't want to risk the wires in it so I was just planning on using the onboard while I ordered an extension or molex adapter. Then when that didn't work I put in the video card to test that. The PCI-E and 4 or 8 pin atx cpu power cables are wired differently. Don't trade them. As for troubleshooting your system do you get any BIOS error beeps or LEDs? If nothing's working the easiest thing to try is to re-seat all of the components you can, although it sounds like that's pretty much going to be ram and maybe CPU if the video card is already out.
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Oct 29, 2014 14:18
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Ether Frenzy posted:Yeah, those are the only two in that range - there's like 12 other options both up and down the line, but nothing more refined in the spot we need there. Power consumption will go up by like... a Watt. But honestly the switch to 2x4 GB to avoid the hassle does sound appealing. RiceBurrito posted:The case I'm working with has a heat sink clearance of 80mm and I'm looking at the Silverstone NT-06 Pro which has a clearance of 82mm. That's way too close for it fit I assume? From what it looks like the heatsink is supposed to push the hot air into the power supply to exhaust so it needs to be pretty drat close to it. That extra 2mm isn't going to work for this particular case. First, don't place the PSU fan directly over the CPU fan. Mount the PSU fan-out. Two fans that close spinning in opposite directions will lead to bad results. Second... Scythe Big Shuriken SCBSK-2100. Someone's actually stocking it for a decent price on Amazon. You might be better off trying to do a closed-loop liquid cooler if you intend to overclock, but there isn't really a good place for one unless you take out the front hard drive bays, though.
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Oct 29, 2014 14:50
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Rexxed posted:The PCI-E and 4 or 8 pin atx cpu power cables are wired differently. Don't trade them. As for troubleshooting your system do you get any BIOS error beeps or LEDs? If nothing's working the easiest thing to try is to re-seat all of the components you can, although it sounds like that's pretty much going to be ram and maybe CPU if the video card is already out. I hadn't wanted to dig down deep and re-seat the CPU, but I did that just now and that seems to have been the problem. I'm installing Windows as we speak. I didn't see any bent pins or anything so I don't know what I did wrong the first time. Also should the PSU fan be this loud? It's much louder than my old one for some reason. I have the 300W Seasonic from the OP.
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Oct 29, 2014 14:57
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Has anybody here returned defective product to Microcenter? My GTX 970 is 12 days old and artifacting red lines all over the place at stock clocks, so I'm going to try to swap it out for another one. If they don't have one I guess I'm just taking store credit or cash back, but I really don't want to have to pay a restocking fee on defective product.
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Oct 29, 2014 15:05
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EX-GAIJIN AT LAST posted:I hadn't wanted to dig down deep and re-seat the CPU, but I did that just now and that seems to have been the problem. I'm installing Windows as we speak. I didn't see any bent pins or anything so I don't know what I did wrong the first time. Computers are weird and sometimes things don't make sense. I mean, of course there's an explanation but you will likely never figure it out so don't worry too much about it. I've had RAM completely not work and reseated it and it was fine. I had a machine with PC-133 that only liked the three ram sticks to be in particular slots, despite being the same timing and all. Due to all of the disparate odd behaviors that can happen we end up with a lot of blanket rules like "reseat everything." I wouldn't stress about it as long as the system is stable now.
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Oct 29, 2014 15:50
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Twerk from Home posted:Has anybody here returned defective product to Microcenter? My GTX 970 is 12 days old and artifacting red lines all over the place at stock clocks, so I'm going to try to swap it out for another one. If they don't have one I guess I'm just taking store credit or cash back, but I really don't want to have to pay a restocking fee on defective product. I've never bought from there but if the product is broken there should not be a restocking fee. It's not like you're returning good merchandise you changed your mind about, you're looking to get an exchange if they have it in stock.
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Oct 29, 2014 15:52
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Twerk from Home posted:Has anybody here returned defective product to Microcenter? My GTX 970 is 12 days old and artifacting red lines all over the place at stock clocks, so I'm going to try to swap it out for another one. If they don't have one I guess I'm just taking store credit or cash back, but I really don't want to have to pay a restocking fee on defective product. Microcenter will not charge a restocking fee. Explain the situation, take it back, get a refund back on your credit card. Then purchase the replacement. If you return it and buy the new one in the same transaction it can sort of convert money owed into store credit. Just always best practice to do a complete full return. If you got any game vouchers with the card they won't even ask for those back.
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Oct 29, 2014 15:58
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My computer was killed by a recent thunderstorm and I'd like to put together a new computer for web/schoolwork/etc. I've put this list together from the suggestions in this thread, but I just want to check that I haven't left anything out or picked any stuff that will be a problem. I'd also like to save any money I can, so of there's anything I've got here that I could go cheaper on that would be great. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i3-4360 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($149.99 @ NCIX US) Motherboard: ASRock H97M PRO4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($81.98 @ Newegg) Memory: A-Data XPG V1.0 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($74.99 @ Newegg) Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: SeaSonic 360W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Amazon) Total: $406.94 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-29 11:11 EDT-0400 I want to be able to connect my two monitors (one has VGA, DVI and HDMI inputs, the other only VGA and DVI). I don't need a copy of Windows and I haven't included a DVD drive or hard disk since I the ones from my old computer still work. Also, I'm in Australia and I don't know what (if any) difference that makes to relative prices or availability.
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Oct 29, 2014 16:15
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Zero VGS posted:Microcenter will not charge a restocking fee. Explain the situation, take it back, get a refund back on your credit card. Then purchase the replacement. If you return it and buy the new one in the same transaction it can sort of convert money owed into store credit. Just always best practice to do a complete full return. If you got any game vouchers with the card they won't even ask for those back. Oh poo poo, the GTX 970 was supposed to come with game vouchers? I didn't get any of those. Thanks for the advice though, I'm probably going to return it and then just take the money and buy the Gigabyte that I really wanted all along from Amazon. C'mon GPU OEMs, put those displayport connectors on there it's 2014.
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Oct 29, 2014 16:17
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TheJeffers posted:I really want to correct this notion about sponsors having some kind of direct input on the contents of the TR system guide, because it keeps coming up, and it is wrong. Totally get this and in general believe that most websites that have ever had credibility handle it in this way. But may I suggest (having not visited the site at all to know if it's even there) a list of products that you HAVE had hands-on experience with alongside recommendations? It shows the scope of the sample size and potentially clarifies why there may be a discrepancy.
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Oct 29, 2014 16:29
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Tiggum posted:My computer was killed by a recent thunderstorm and I'd like to put together a new computer for web/schoolwork/etc. I've put this list together from the suggestions in this thread, but I just want to check that I haven't left anything out or picked any stuff that will be a problem. I'd also like to save any money I can, so of there's anything I've got here that I could go cheaper on that would be great. This is fine assuming you aren't gaming. You should invest in a quality surge protector though, for all your expensive electronics - woolworths have them, they don't cost too much. May I suggest you browse the store you actually intend to purchase from and put together a list from there - they may not have everything on this list, so you might need to make some substitutions. A cursory check tells me you're looking at 500-550AUD for that list of parts. If you want to make this computer gaming capable in the future, I would suggest buying a 450w power supply now. Alternatively, if gaming isn't something that is ever likely to interest you, and your needs are basically web browsing and MS office, you could save some money with something like a pentium g3420 instead of the i3. I'm also hesitant to trust your old hard drive now. You should also probably be looking at prebuilts from dell, etc or even laptops and comparing prices. DIY often isn't cost effective for basic office type machines. The Lord Bude fucked around with this message at 16:49 on Oct 29, 2014 |
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Oct 29, 2014 16:40
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Anyone have good/bad experience with TigerDirect?
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Oct 29, 2014 16:51
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Strong Sauce posted:Anyone have good/bad experience with TigerDirect? They're probably less bad than Newegg now, I'd be comfortable buying anything from them.
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Oct 29, 2014 16:54
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The Lord Bude posted:This is fine assuming you aren't gaming. The Lord Bude posted:You should invest in a quality surge protector though  The Lord Bude posted:May I suggest you browse the store you actually intend to purchase from and put together a list from there - they may not have everything on this list, so you might need to make some substitutions.  The Lord Bude posted:I'm also hesitant to trust your old hard drive now. The Lord Bude posted:You should also probably be looking at prebuilts from dell, etc or even laptops and comparing prices. DIY often isn't cost effective for basic office type machines.
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Oct 29, 2014 17:14
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Need a quick opinion about two components. Super Flower SF-550P14PE Golden King I can get this at a significant discount (90e down from 135e), and Macho120 Rev.A, same price as cooler master hyper evo, supposed to run cooler and quieter though? Intending to have this cool a 4690k at 4,0-4,4ghz.
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Oct 29, 2014 17:36
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Tiggum posted:Before my old computer died I was actually planning on connecting it to the TV and using it only for gaming/videos, and buying a new one to use as my main computer. But since games are the lower priority I'm now starting by just getting the new non-games computer. Once I have some more cash I'll get a second computer to play games on. If you tell me which store you intend to buy from, I can help you make an appropriate choice of parts. I'm not sure buying a whole other computer is worth the money - if you get an i3, and just put a 450w power supply in there, you'll be able to drop in a decent GPU at a later date for gaming.
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Oct 29, 2014 17:42
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Strong Sauce posted:Anyone have good/bad experience with TigerDirect? I bought my case from them, it arrived a day before the estimated date it showed when I ordered and in perfect condition.
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Oct 29, 2014 17:48
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Avalerion posted:Need a quick opinion about two components. Both are good deals. The power supply is a winner. The Macho is a good cooler - at the same price as a 212 EVO, either it's a good discount or the 212 is overpriced. Either way, good buy.
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Oct 29, 2014 17:50
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Avalerion posted:Need a quick opinion about two components. That's an excellent power supply, but it is unusually long, so double check to make sure that won't be an issue in your case. The Lord Bude fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Oct 29, 2014 |
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Oct 29, 2014 17:53
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