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Question about spraypaint. I've had a can of Liquitex paint that I use for my Iyanden Eldar that's been sitting in my room for a couple of months - I purchased and used it at some point over the summer, so it's not an old can. I just took it outside to prime some more Eldar and there was almost no reaction when I put the top on and attempted to spray. Nothing came out, and the only noise it made was a very faint whooshing of air when I released my finger from the top. It doesn't look clogged and I fully shook it before spraying, and it's been sitting in my room-temperature room since the last time I used it. The only unique thing about Liquitex is the button for spraying it isn't attached to the can, it pushes in whenever you use it and you take it out when you're done. However I've used these cans before and never had a problem like this. Any ideas?
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Oct 30, 2014 20:07
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Dumb question: is there any easy way to fix a portion of a model that's been painted too thick? I hosed up the skin tone areas (torso, arms, face) on my pewter Kjell Bloodbear so badly that every time I look at it a chorus of angry painters in my head shouts "THIN UR PAINTS!!!"
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Oct 30, 2014 20:19
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Direwolf posted:Any ideas? I'm guessing it might be clogged or clotted inside the feeder tube. It's probably too late for this particular can, but you can avoid future jams by inverting the can and spraying until it's clear.
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Oct 30, 2014 21:02
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moths posted:I'm guessing it might be clogged or clotted inside the feeder tube. It's probably too late for this particular can, but you can avoid future jams by inverting the can and spraying until it's clear. Ugh, I usually make sure I do that after spraying, I must have forgotten the last time. Might be last chance to spray in quasi warm weather, too.
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Oct 30, 2014 21:09
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Ryoshi posted:Dumb question: is there any easy way to fix a portion of a model that's been painted too thick? I hosed up the skin tone areas (torso, arms, face) on my pewter Kjell Bloodbear so badly that every time I look at it a chorus of angry painters in my head shouts "THIN UR PAINTS!!!" No. Either live with it or strip the whole thing and repaint.
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Oct 30, 2014 21:57
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Post 9-11 User posted:Holy loving dogshit those are cool. They're not power squatting, cool poses, holding their weapons well, and have dope weapons. Guy on the far right seems to have a broken wrist but I still like the concept of his pose. Thanks, gonna have to fix that wrist now  Legs are from here: http://evilcraft.eu/shop/ Guns and shoulder pads are from puppetswar.
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Oct 30, 2014 22:08
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Those Evilcraft bits are awesome, might have to start picking some up for a 30K army or my normal CSM. Why do they sell in batches of 6, though? Direwolf posted:Question about spraypaint. I've had a can of Liquitex paint that I use for my Iyanden Eldar that's been sitting in my room for a couple of months - I purchased and used it at some point over the summer, so it's not an old can. I just took it outside to prime some more Eldar and there was almost no reaction when I put the top on and attempted to spray. Nothing came out, and the only noise it made was a very faint whooshing of air when I released my finger from the top. It doesn't look clogged and I fully shook it before spraying, and it's been sitting in my room-temperature room since the last time I used it. The only think I can think of is to try soaking it in plastic-safe thinner (if that exists for spray paints), because the nozzle may have gotten clogged up. The usual thing suggested to prevent clogging is after you finish using the can, turn it upside down and spray again (so the tube inside the can doesn't have any paint in it and only propellant comes out). When the can sprays clear spray, the nozzle is clear so stop spraying. Maybe because it's Liquitex you can get a replacement nozzle head?
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Oct 30, 2014 23:38
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berzerkmonkey posted:No. Either live with it or strip the whole thing and repaint. Ugh. I'm so bummed about this. On the one hand I want to just live with it because I've already painted some of the other stuff pretty nicely, I'm probably going to be using it in a game and no matter what it'll look nicer than the prepainted official D&D minis, but on the other hand I do have a few more pewter minis to prime and paint... As long as I'm here, I know I asked some dumb questions about Bones in the past but I still just can't seem to get the hang of them. You don't really have to prime them, right? But it seems like the paint just does NOT want to stick unless I don't thin it at all, in which case the basecoat gets all gross and it comes through into the details. Any tips from the pros?
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Oct 31, 2014 01:50
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Ryoshi posted:But it seems like the paint just does NOT want to stick unless I don't thin it at all, in which case the basecoat gets all gross and it comes through into the details. Any tips from the pros? Did you wash the minis?
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Oct 31, 2014 03:18
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berzerkmonkey posted:No. Either live with it or strip the whole thing and repaint. Not entirely true. You can go in with a plastic toothpick and veeeeeeery slowly scrape off just the paint you want to get rid of. If you are super duper brave you can seal the model with a good varnish then use saran wrap and blue tape to tape off all the model except the parts you want to strip and then go in with a small hard bristled brush (I use an old mascara brush, but a small wire brush or a very bristly cheap toothbrush would also work I guess) and some very carefully applied acetone, pinesol or brake fluid and start scrubbing (VERY VERY CAREFULLY). A little goes a long way with that stuff. Basically you do that to strip it down and then reapply brush on primer and go from there. Edit: working in such a small area with not very much liquid (to avoid it somehow bypassing your barrier and hitting the "real" model) you probably want to use Fairy Power Spray. People will tell you that superclean is the best paint stripper and they are loving wrong. FPS contains polyacrylic acid which is pretty much the best thing you can ever use to strip acrylic paint bar none and it works fast and in small amounts. El Estrago Bonito fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Oct 31, 2014 |
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Oct 31, 2014 03:32
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signalnoise posted:Did you wash the minis? Yeah, with a soft toothbrush and everything. It's like either I'm using full-bodied paint and it sticks or I water it down even a little bit and the model goes all hydrophobic. I'm using Vallejo paints, if it matters.
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Oct 31, 2014 04:00
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Ryoshi posted:As long as I'm here, I know I asked some dumb questions about Bones in the past but I still just can't seem to get the hang of them. You don't really have to prime them, right? But it seems like the paint just does NOT want to stick unless I don't thin it at all, in which case the basecoat gets all gross and it comes through into the details. Any tips from the pros? You don't HAVE to prime them, but you can. If you don't, you have to basically basecoat the mini with unthinned paint because Bonesium is very hydrophobic. Stuff will just bead up. It's designed for newbie painters or people with little time to just be able to paint straight out of the bottle and out of the box, so that's considered a feature, not a bug. You can go ahead and prime them just fine, though, I do for mine. Be aware that some seemingly random brands of aerosol primer react strangely with it and stay tacky literally forever, so either use an airbrush, brush prime, or check the thread on the Reaper board for tried and tested brands of primer.
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Oct 31, 2014 04:40
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Best primer for Bones is Army Painter, still takes like two hours to dry but I've never had it gently caress up on me like other types.
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Oct 31, 2014 08:49
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Anybody have some spare IG trackguards? I need a good number for some heavy duty conversions. These guys right here: Willing to pay, trade, or give ham jobs.
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Oct 31, 2014 12:09
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Best primer for Bones is Army Painter, still takes like two hours to dry but I've never had it gently caress up on me like other types. I've had good luck with Krylon for years and seems to work fine on Bones. Rustoleum, on the other hand, has given me no end of troubles regardless of what I spray.
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Oct 31, 2014 12:33
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Not entirely true.
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Oct 31, 2014 13:31
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Ryoshi posted:Dumb question: is there any easy way to fix a portion of a model that's been painted too thick? I hosed up the skin tone areas (torso, arms, face) on my pewter Kjell Bloodbear so badly that every time I look at it a chorus of angry painters in my head shouts "THIN UR PAINTS!!!" Oh my. As was pointed out before, that much removal warrants stripping the entire model. If you really wanted to you could take a razor blade or x-acto knife and scrape all of the skin areas bare, but that is so much effort for very little gain (remember, if you like the other painted parts so much, base coating the skin will likely cause some splatter).
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Oct 31, 2014 14:41
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Anyone have any specific suggestions for an alcohol paint setup? Brushes Cleaner etc Right now I have on order 2 Winsor & Newton Galeria brushes, a one-stroke 1/8" and a one-stroke 1/4", which I bought in those sizes because I'm going to be using the paints on largish models. I read somewhere that alcohol paints are good for synthetic watercolor brushes. Anyone have any suggestions for specific synthetic brushes for alcohol paints that are more in line with miniatures painting? I.E. Round 00, 0, 1, 2? As far as cleaner I was just going to go to the hardware store and pick up a quart of denatured alcohol. Any tips regarding cleaning with alcohol paints, other stuff I need for my setup, precautions, tools I should look into, etc? OH! And what should I be using to clean my airbrush when I shoot alcohol paints through it? Same denatured alcohol? signalnoise fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Oct 31, 2014 |
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Oct 31, 2014 16:33
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Alcohol paints have the same problems as acrylics do for this work. Synthetic brushes just aren't going to hold as fine a point as we need, and acrylic and alcohol paints are going to destroy natural hair brushes pretty quickly. Buy what's in your price range and be ready to replace in 3 months to 1 year depending on how much you paint and the quality of the brush. I just thin with 90%+ isopropyl alcohol, which seems marginally less insane to spray through an airbrush, but holy poo poo wear a good mask.
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Oct 31, 2014 18:43
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BULBASAUR posted:Anybody have some spare IG trackguards? I need a good number for some heavy duty conversions. These guys right here: Why not just make some press-molds of them? Should be easy enough.
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Oct 31, 2014 21:07
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I might end up casting them since I have all the materials, but it's going to be a lot of work 
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Oct 31, 2014 21:33
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Styrene? It will be some work, but they're pretty basic shapes. Casting won't be that much work, but it will be time consuming, since I'm sure you need a shitload.
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Oct 31, 2014 21:35
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Are they discontinued?
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Oct 31, 2014 21:39
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Come with me on an adventure where I come to the epiphany that I should have wore a mask when I started airbrushing (Ultramarine Blue phlegm post 7 weeks of acute bronchitis), zenithal highlighting rocks, that hand painted banners aren't as difficult as I first realised, and finish by completing my 2nd Company Command Group leaving just two tac squads and 4 rhinos to go. Huzzah!        
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Oct 31, 2014 21:59
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There's something wrong with your eyes man  I really like that bannerman though
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Oct 31, 2014 22:04
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Plastic Scouser posted:Come with me on an adventure where I come to the epiphany that I should have wore a mask when I started airbrushing (Ultramarine Blue phlegm post 7 weeks of acute bronchitis), zenithal highlighting rocks, that hand painted banners aren't as difficult as I first realised, and finish by completing my 2nd Company Command Group leaving just two tac squads and 4 rhinos to go. Huzzah! 
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Oct 31, 2014 22:04
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Dude those are gorgeous. All of them except the one with the weird face mask thing.
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Oct 31, 2014 22:13
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LumberingTroll posted:Why not just make some press-molds of them? Should be easy enough. so this isn't  anymore?
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Nov 1, 2014 03:15
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So here are the finished Griffin Executioners, Griffin Thalions,  And Griffin Templars (these being Inquisition Templars), 
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Nov 1, 2014 03:24
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Still awesome.
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Nov 1, 2014 03:51
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So what's the best price/quality washes around these days? Les' wash recipe won't work since I'm in Australia and all the materials cost a mint in shipping. Also, I don't really want to support Citadel.
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Nov 1, 2014 08:43
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FROOOOOOOOG posted:So what's the best price/quality washes around these days? Les' wash recipe won't work since I'm in Australia and all the materials cost a mint in shipping. For my money, Army Painter "inks" are the go-to these days. I don't know if they're similarly hard to get in Australia, or not.
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Nov 1, 2014 09:00
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BULBASAUR posted:Are they discontinued?
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Nov 1, 2014 11:00
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Crossposting my oath. Big puzzle island for autism awareness was a fun little project to work on. Need to touch up the wings and a few minor highlights before I hand it off to it's new owners tomorrow.     
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Nov 1, 2014 11:41
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Hi nerds. So I have a Central Pneumatic Oilless Airbrush Compressor from Harbor Freight. My mom got it for me for Christmas. I also have the Central Pneumatic Deluxe Air Brush Kit, but it is not a gravity-fed airbrush, and I've heard that for the very tiny amounts of paint that we're dealing with gravity-fed is the best. While I see no point in getting rid of the air compressor, do you guys recommend going with a different airbrush? Are there any recommendations for one?
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Nov 1, 2014 11:42
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I just noticed that the varnish on one of my models has cracked in the recesses. It's probably worth mentioning that it's the first one I've varnished with a brush, since the weather won't let me use my airbrush. I've used Vallejo's gloss and matt varnish. So what happened, and how do I fix it? I'll be painting 8 more of the same model for the oath thread and I don't want to deal with it more than I have to.
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Nov 1, 2014 12:24
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Cross posting. I think I'm getting a lot better at NMM and what I assume is wet blending, with the Warp Spider exarch blades. I tried something new on the bases too, bubbles of ice forming around them as they teleport in, though I had issues fitting the horrible blobby resin models inside the bases they're meant to fit on, not to mention picking out exactly what detail was what on the left hand side. Desperately need new plastics.NTRabbit posted:
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Nov 1, 2014 12:50
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OATH COMPLETE 
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Swags posted:Hi nerds. Cheap but good: Veda 180 Midrange in all aspects: H&S Ultra, Paasche Talon Good but 100+: Iwata Eclipse, H&S Ultra, Badger Renegade Real rear end poo poo: H&S Infinity, Richpen
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Nov 1, 2014 13:09
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FROOOOOOOOG posted:So what's the best price/quality washes around these days? Les' wash recipe won't work since I'm in Australia and all the materials cost a mint in shipping. If you're trying to import the materials from overseas, it would surely be expensive. There are many local art stores which stock the materials needed to make the washes as per Les' recipes. I picked up mine from the places at the links below, if it's of any assistance. Prices are reasonable and postage is capped at $9.90. Liquitex Matte Medium and Flow Aid Daler Rowney FW Artist Inks 15mL dropper bottles (30 pcs)
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Nov 1, 2014 13:29
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What's the goon-go-to micropen for freehand patterns? I've experimented with 0 brushes but I can never get the consistency of the paint right for what I'm doing.
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Nov 1, 2014 15:15
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