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Got the call that it was ready to go about 1pm Mon; when I got to the dealership I immediately asked to speak with the service manager, who explained exactly what happened (pinched o-ring) and took full responsibility for it and the other issues. He couldn't explain how it was allowed to leave the shop that way, only that it was highly uncharacteristic of that particular technician and for their shop in general. They re-did the entire 35K service to ensure it was all done properly, detailed the hell out of the engine bay and exterior and also comped my 55K service (Audicare already covers me through 45K). So, all's well that ends well I suppose, could have turned out a lot worse and the dealer did everything in their power to make things right again. I'll probably stick with them until my warranty is up, especially if they keep giving me S4 loaners. *Edit: Oh new page. Can anyone recommend a TDI tuning shop in or near Seattle?
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Oct 15, 2014 17:22
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bizwank posted:Got the call that it was ready to go about 1pm Mon; when I got to the dealership I immediately asked to speak with the service manager, who explained exactly what happened (pinched o-ring) and took full responsibility for it and the other issues. He couldn't explain how it was allowed to leave the shop that way, only that it was highly uncharacteristic of that particular technician and for their shop in general. They re-did the entire 35K service to ensure it was all done properly, detailed the hell out of the engine bay and exterior and also comped my 55K service (Audicare already covers me through 45K). So, all's well that ends well I suppose, could have turned out a lot worse and the dealer did everything in their power to make things right again. I'll probably stick with them until my warranty is up, especially if they keep giving me S4 loaners. Mistakes do happen, good on them for making it right. I bet that technician will always roadtest and check for leaks from now on.
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Oct 15, 2014 17:26
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At least it was diesel and not gas that sprayed all over the place.
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Oct 15, 2014 20:55
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bizwank posted:Got the call that it was ready to go about 1pm Mon; when I got to the dealership I immediately asked to speak with the service manager, who explained exactly what happened (pinched o-ring) and took full responsibility for it and the other issues. He couldn't explain how it was allowed to leave the shop that way, only that it was highly uncharacteristic of that particular technician and for their shop in general. They re-did the entire 35K service to ensure it was all done properly, detailed the hell out of the engine bay and exterior and also comped my 55K service (Audicare already covers me through 45K). So, all's well that ends well I suppose, could have turned out a lot worse and the dealer did everything in their power to make things right again. I'll probably stick with them until my warranty is up, especially if they keep giving me S4 loaners. Was it Barrier or University?
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Oct 17, 2014 03:28
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It was not University, though it could have been if those fuckers had ever returned my calls/emails when I was shopping.
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Oct 17, 2014 20:10
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  Okay maybe there is something wrong with my head, but I simply do not trust myself to read these things. A dude in the dealer topped me off by like 750 ml by eyeball. Why get so close to overfilled? Where the little flanges come out the top is Overfilled. Zone A (Do not add oil) is between those and the grooves.
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Oct 18, 2014 00:48
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agarjogger posted:Okay maybe there is something wrong with my head, but I simply do not trust myself to read these things. A dude in the dealer topped me off by like 750 ml by eyeball. Why get so close to overfilled? Where the little flanges come out the top is Overfilled. Zone A (Do not add oil) is between those and the grooves. What's your question exactly? Are you wondering if you overfilled?
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Oct 18, 2014 03:18
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eriddy posted:What's your question exactly? Are you wondering if you overfilled? Yes. If it's worth it to drain a quarter liter.
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Oct 18, 2014 05:39
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I have two GTi's (07 and '14) and the dealership always seems to overfill a tiny bit (enough to make me ask wtf). It seems like mechanics and owners are split about how much tolerance you have on newer audi/vw cars and how errors in measurement can even come from poorly calibrated dipsticks, etc. Anyway I know this post doesn't help at all. I'd drain it to spec if the process was easy, but if it wasn't I'd probably leave it because of laziness.
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Oct 18, 2014 05:53
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agarjogger posted:Yes. If it's worth it to drain a quarter liter. If it doesn't reach the position on the dipstick that, according to your manual, means it's overfilled, don't sweat it and continue driving.
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Oct 20, 2014 13:37
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Does anyone know what is takes to get a mk6 TDI to regen? Like what speed/engine load/etc? edit: how bad is it for the car when regens are regularly interrupted? two_beer_bishes fucked around with this message at 06:07 on Oct 24, 2014 |
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Oct 24, 2014 05:58
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i'm completely stumped about fixing my 2002 Jetta. I have 2 issues - low beams not working when high beams work and the windshield wipers not working Low beam issue - i've checked the fuse box and replaced the comfort control module with no luck - the comfort control module did seem to fix some of the other electrical issues we were having such as electric locks and lighter not working. I've heard that the terminals for the headlights can be loose but i'm not sure if that is it. Thought i'd ask before i go that route. Windshield Wipers were going really slow until about a month ago when they stopped completely. I thought it was the motor so i replaced it. Tried to start them up and no dice. Strange thing about it was that when i was placing the motor i got some arc off the bolts. I read that was related to the wiper relay so i tried replacing that. still no dice. Any ideas? at this point i'm guessing linkage.... i'm hoping not the stalk since i think that requires airbag removal... ThePotatoMasher fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Oct 28, 2014 |
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Oct 28, 2014 00:32
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two_beer_bishes posted:Does anyone know what is takes to get a mk6 TDI to regen? Like what speed/engine load/etc? It regens whenever the gently caress it feels like it. The TDI is a strange beast. If you interrupt it, just let it get to temp and drive the poo poo out of it the next time you take it out. Mine is up to 36k and the regens aren't nearly as noticeable as they used to be. Relenvant thread. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=411064 That whole forum is good info for TDI specific questions.
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Oct 31, 2014 00:15
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Is it just me, or is the battery really lovely in the MKVI TDI? I've already had to jump it, and it was only sitting for like 3 days. Anyone think one of the optima yellow tops would be a good idea?
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Oct 31, 2014 13:56
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alternate.eago posted:Is it just me, or is the battery really lovely in the MKVI TDI? I've already had to jump it, and it was only sitting for like 3 days. Anyone think one of the optima yellow tops would be a good idea? No problems here. I left mine home for a week when I was on vacation and it cranked just fine when I went to work on day 9 of it sitting. How old is yours?
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Oct 31, 2014 16:27
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2013. Although I did have a couple of amps and a subwoofer installed recently, I mean that could be it, but the shop I took it to was extremely competent.
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Oct 31, 2014 17:40
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alternate.eago posted:2013. Although I did have a couple of amps and a subwoofer installed recently, I mean that could be it, but the shop I took it to was extremely competent. Charge your battery with a proper charger. Chances are the shop ran it down, and the car's charging system won't ever really charge it back up properly.
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Oct 31, 2014 18:34
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If check for phantom draw as well.
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Oct 31, 2014 20:31
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CountOfNowhere posted:Charge your battery with a proper charger. Chances are the shop ran it down, and the car's charging system won't ever really charge it back up properly. I planed on doing that this weekend, but I think it's supposed to rain.  The JSW doesn't have a garage spot, so I may be able to do it Saturday night on on Sunday.
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Oct 31, 2014 20:40
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alternate.eago posted:2013. Although I did have a couple of amps and a subwoofer installed recently, I mean that could be it, but the shop I took it to was extremely competent. I doubt that is the issue. You probably have a phantom draw somewhere. I'm running 2 amps and haven't had any battery issues.
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Oct 31, 2014 21:19
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I'm trying to replace the driver's side CV axle on my MKIV GTI and I'm stuck at removing the triple square bolts on the transmission side. It seems unless the angle is dead on the bit jumps out, but I can't really get to it without multiple extensions which makes everything a bit sloppy. I tried an impact wrench but its 19.2V cordless and just makes noise on them. Any tips?
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Nov 2, 2014 22:48
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DrChu posted:I'm trying to replace the driver's side CV axle on my MKIV GTI and I'm stuck at removing the triple square bolts on the transmission side. It seems unless the angle is dead on the bit jumps out, but I can't really get to it without multiple extensions which makes everything a bit sloppy. I tried an impact wrench but its 19.2V cordless and just makes noise on them. Any tips? The triple squares need to be CLEAN. Like, brake cleaner and a pick to make sure EVERYTHING it out of them. Then you need a good and absolutely undamaged bit. If it cammed out of one, it's probably damaged. So get at least a couple of them.
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Nov 2, 2014 23:10
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Why are you replacing the whole axel anyway?
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Nov 3, 2014 04:29
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No. 6 posted:Why are you replacing the whole axel anyway? CV joints went bad (both boots torn) Got the axle out and putting the new one in now. One thing nobody seemed to mention is how to get the ball joint back into the lower control arm (it's lower due to suspension expanding). Disconnect sway bar, get everything back together then use floor jack to lift it up and reconnect sway bar? Edit: ended up doing it that way and it worked fine. No more clicking when I accelerate now! DrChu fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Nov 3, 2014 |
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Nov 3, 2014 19:21
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Hey y'all, just had my first problem with my 2008 A4. The check engine light came on yesterday, so I took it by this mechanic that a friend recommended to me. They told me that my thermostat was broken and it'd be like $1000 to fix! I thought that sounded ridiculous, so I did some hunting online to confirm their diagnosis. They're right as to the error code. When I pull the codes, I get two P2181 messages. My concern is that my car's temperature display seems to be acting normally. It gets up to the halfway mark without a problem (though it seems like it goes down to the 1/4 mark maybe a bit quicker than I remember but I could be imagining it), and the needle never passes the halfway point. Usually, it sits at or slightly below the 1/2 marker. Some other site said that you should check to see if the car produced hot air after a little bit of idling, and mine did that no problem. The only anomalous thing is that my coolant is below the minimum mark on the tank. Could that or some excess air be the cause of the problem? I figured that I'd run my analysis by this thread before replacing the coolant and burping the cooling system. In case it matters, the car has ~65k miles on the odometer, had the full "check everything" service around 50 or 55k miles, and I've never had any issues with the car prior to this one.
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Nov 6, 2014 01:31
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Sounds familiar to me. The part is cheap as hell, it's all labor in the end. Depends on how much time you have and how comfortable you feel with trying to replace it yourself. If I recall correctly, I think it's a decent enough amount effort to give you pause if that's your only vehicle. On a related note, I've got a nasty exhaust rattle on my 2006 A4 (again). It tends to go away when the vehicle warms up somewhat, but I'm pretty sure it's banging off one of the cross-members underneath. I'm going to take some pics soon to see if it looks familiar to anyone, because I don't want to have to replace my exhaust again.
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Nov 6, 2014 04:47
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Omerta posted:Hey y'all, just had my first problem with my 2008 A4. The check engine light came on yesterday, so I took it by this mechanic that a friend recommended to me. They told me that my thermostat was broken and it'd be like $1000 to fix! I thought that sounded ridiculous, so I did some hunting online to confirm their diagnosis. In the end I replaced my sensor and still get the code, but it's not a major issue so I continue to drive the car with it. If you still want to do it yourself you can check out this thread for a guide.
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Nov 6, 2014 06:24
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Has anyone done front axle assembly replacements on a B6 Passat 2.0 Tiptronic? It looks pretty straightforward, but if anyone ran into any gotchas they'd be appreciated. Ordering from Raxles on Monday.
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Nov 8, 2014 23:35
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I've got a 2006 2.0T Passat (auto trans) and need to do a couple of things to it... 1) Does anybody have any tips/advice for cleaning the intake valves on these engines? I've needed to get them cleaned for the better part of a year - fairly rough idle and misfires here and there. I had it at the dealership for them to check out - they put a borescope down there and said they needed to be cleaned for somewhere around $800 or something stupid like that, so I've convinced myself to take a weekend and tackle it. Any tips or advice for cleaning the valves? 2) The last time I changed my oil I noticed CV grease had been slung out of the inside boot of one of the CV shafts... I'm assuming it's not worth it to pull the whole thing off just to replace the boot, so I'm probably going to be putting a new CV shaft in it. Same question here - any tips/tricks/advice?
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Nov 9, 2014 02:27
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Find a decent shop the clean your FSI motor carbon buildup. As for CV boots, they cost like $15 and take no time at all to replace. But you can waste money on a whole axel if you prefer.
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Nov 9, 2014 02:29
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In my case I'm getting occasional clicking on right turns, time to replace the whole thing. 
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Nov 9, 2014 03:24
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No. 6 posted:As for CV boots, they cost like $15 and take no time at all to replace. But you can waste money on a whole axel if you prefer. Those split boots are a monster pain in the rear end to fit but they do work.
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Nov 9, 2014 08:11
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I have a 2010 S4 with about 50k miles on it, and I had the 45k mile service done maybe six months ago or so. I'm now getting a message that the oil is at the minimum level and that I should add no more than a quart. I can top it off no problem, but is this amount of oil usage normal? I haven't noticed excessive smoke in the exhaust or anything, but I haven't really been looking for it either.
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Nov 9, 2014 14:52
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the milk machine posted:I have a 2010 S4 with about 50k miles on it, and I had the 45k mile service done maybe six months ago or so. I'm now getting a message that the oil is at the minimum level and that I should add no more than a quart. I can top it off no problem, but is this amount of oil usage normal? I haven't noticed excessive smoke in the exhaust or anything, but I haven't really been looking for it either. Could be normal, i'd ask whoever changed it if they typically fill it all the way or what level, and what their experience is on with that engine. Also check your owner's manual, it may have a section regarding oil consumption. I know for my GTI, VW considers 1 quart per 1200 miles normal. 
Styles Bitchley fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Nov 10, 2014 |
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Nov 9, 2014 16:56
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8ender posted:Those split boots are a monster pain in the rear end to fit but they do work. Did Audi change them? The last time I did a CV boot was on a 2001 S4 and I had the whole thing done in about 30 mins.
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Nov 9, 2014 17:06
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So my 2010 TDI Golf is throwing a "P0472 - Exhaust Pressure Sensor Low" code. I haven't noticed any decreased mileage or anything else, which makes me think it's the sensor. Should I just order a new G450 sensor? It sounds like it's easy to swap out, but I can't find any walk through or guide. Also, it's been taking longer to start, so I asked autozone to do a battery check. Apparently the battery is fine but the starter failed and was pulling 36 amps. Can I trust autozone's amp reading?
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Nov 10, 2014 16:42
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I have a 2004 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8 Liter with the turbo. I used to drive a 2008 GLI. Granted that was a 2.0 liter engine that was turbo charged as well, but that had infinitely more torque.It slammed coming out of stops which was amazing. Is there any way I can make my A4 anywhere close to the man my GLI was? I'm not willing to spend 5 grand over a turbo kit, but do you recommend getting a performance ECU? And does a new exhaust system really....really do much besides add a few horsepower and make it louder. (Keep in mind my county is a county that has bullshit emissions tests...one of the only counties in my state.) Also is it possible to edit the ECU myself? Or do I have to send it in? Ezekial fucked around with this message at 17:23 on Nov 10, 2014 |
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Nov 10, 2014 17:11
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Ezekial posted:I have a 2004 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8 Liter with the turbo. I used to drive a 2008 GLI. Granted that was a 2.0 liter engine that was turbo charged as well, but that had infinitely more torque.It slammed coming out of stops which was amazing. Is there any way I can make my A4 anywhere close to the man my GLI was? I'm not willing to spend 5 grand over a turbo kit, but do you recommend getting a performance ECU? And does a new exhaust system really....really do much besides add a few horsepower and make it louder. (Keep in mind my county is a county that has bullshit emissions tests...one of the only counties in my state.) There's a LOT of aftermarket parts available for the 1.8 as it was used in so many cars, apparently the exhaust system is seen as more of a problem than in other cars. Most people seem to start with a remap of the existing ECU, either by a specialist shop or using one of several software packages and a VAGCOM cable. There's a rough guide here of what many people seem to do, and some people have gotten phenomenal amounts of power out of the 1.8. If you only just bought it I would concentrate on making sure it's working well as it is before moving on- when I bought mine I thought the acceleration was pretty good, now it's had a replacement OEM turbo (old one shat itself) a service and a few other assorted repairs (clutch, timing belt, water pump e.t.c) it feels like a loving rocket, and the only real "mods" are fresh air induction and a catback exhaust (I'm in the UK with restrictive emissions and it passes every year just fine).
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Nov 10, 2014 20:18
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This is possibly a stupid question, but I want to play podcasts and whatnot from my Android phone in my 2009 GTI with that has the iPod link in the center armrest. I've seen generic iPod to USB conversion cables on Amazon that specifically say not to buy it for use in VWs because it might not work. Do I need to go and actually install a full on AUX In or is there some dumb way to get it to work that I am overlooking?
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Nov 12, 2014 15:44
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Goetta posted:This is possibly a stupid question, but I want to play podcasts and whatnot from my Android phone in my 2009 GTI with that has the iPod link in the center armrest. I've seen generic iPod to USB conversion cables on Amazon that specifically say not to buy it for use in VWs because it might not work. Do I need to go and actually install a full on AUX In or is there some dumb way to get it to work that I am overlooking? I have one of the AMI -> Female USB leads for the Audi glovebox interface thing, the android works fine on that but only from the default music app not from stuff like spotify etc. You can also get something called a Viseoo Tune2Air which is a bluetooth adapter that plugs into the ipod/iphone connector in <2013 VAG cars and gives you generic bluetooth audio streaming http://www.thiebs-import.com/viseeo/tune2air.html Personally i've stuck with SD cards due to spotify not working via the USB interface or having to shell out like £60 or so for the bluetooth adapter, especially when the car already has bluetooth but doesn't support music streaming!
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Nov 12, 2014 16:04
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